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It’s Homecoming—at the TWA Hotel!

by Joyce McGreevy on October 28, 2019

Carolyn McGreevy stands beside a TWA Constellation, or “Connie,” an airplane at the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport that evokes travel memories of Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The TWA reunion at JFK puts a spring in the step of pilot’s daughter Carolyn McGreevy.
© Joyce McGreevy

Part 2: TWA Travel Memories Reveal Vision of Tomorrow

(Part 1, “Growing up ‘TWA’,” here.)

Heard the one about 700 people spending several days at the airport—on purpose? As storms drench New York’s JFK Airport, Trans World Airlines alumni gather for a TWA reunion, and travel memories come flooding back.

The TWA Hotel at JFK New York on a stormy night seen from the Constellation, or “Connie,” evokes travel memories of Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Not even a storm can dampen our excitement about the TWA reunion.
© Joyce McGreevy

TWA Time Machine

Amazed, my sisters and I stare at the TWA Terminal, then at each other to make sure it isn’t a dream. For 18 years, the terminal lay vacant. Now all is restored. Once more we enter the familiar tubular walkway with its cherry red carpets and marshmallow walls, reliving memories of childhood travels with our TWA pilot dad.

Three sisters arriving at the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport New York for the TWA Reunion share travel memories of growing up with Trans World Airlines. (Image © Margie McGreevy)

Margie captures the moment as Joyce, Carolyn, and Erin savor a sense of homecoming.
© Margie McGreevy

Flights of Fancy

“I want the greatest airline terminal the world has ever seen and I don’t care how much it costs.”

That’s what TWA visionary Howard Hughes told Finnish designer Eero Saarinen in the late 1950s. By 1962 the architectural wonder was complete. Forty years later, TWA and the terminal shut down.

Then along came Tyler Morse.

As a boy, he’d often visited the TWA Terminal with his dad. As a developer, Morse, like Hughes and Saarinen, had a bold, blue-sky vision for the terminal and the means to carry it out. In May 2019, following a three-year, $265 million restoration, the terminal soared gloriously back to life—as the TWA Hotel.

Spotting Morse at the reunion, former TWA flight attendant Yvonne Greenwood asks why he chose this particular airline. Says Morse, “Because it’s always been the best!”

Former Trans World Airline flight attendant Yvonne Greenwood meets TWA Hotel developer Tyler Morse at JFK Airport New York during the TWA Alumni Reunion. (Image © Jim Greenwood)

TWA alumna Yvonne Greenwood meets TWA Hotel developer Tyler Morse.
© Jim Greenwood

High-Flying Hotel

Emulating TWA, Morse has transformed going to the airport from mere necessity into marvelous experience.

TWA Hotel’s 512 ultra-quiet guestrooms reflect retro chic and offer aviation geeks exhilarating views of JFK’s runways and the iconic TWA Flight Center.

A swimming pool becomes part of the travel memories of the TWA Hotel, JFK Airport, New York. (Image © Erin McGreevy Bevando)

There’s nothing unusual about a dip in the hotel pool, unless . . .
© Erin McGreevy Bevando

A TWA Hotel swimming pool with a view of the runway and airplanes evokes Trans World Airlines travel memories at JFK Airport, New York. (Image © Erin McGreevy Bevando)

. . . it features runway views!
© Erin McGreevy Bevando

A Trans World Airlines Constellation, or “Connie,” airplane parked outside the TWA Hotel, JFK Airport NY, evokes travel memories at the TWA Reunion. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A 1958 Constellation, or “Connie,” has been transformed into . . .
© Joyce McGreevy

The interior of the TWA Constellation, or “Connie,” an airplane at the TWA Hotel, JFK Airport NY, now fitted out as a cocktail bar evokes travel memories of the glamorous Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

. . . a lush cocktail bar.
© Joyce McGreevy

Trans World Airlines alumni flight attendant Yvonne Greenwood, TWA pilots Mike Fliniau and Ron Kleiboeker and TWA pilot’s daughters Erin Bevando, Margie Cozad, Joyce McGreevy share travel memories at the TWA Reunion. (Image © Jim Greenwood)

L to R: TWA alumni Yvonne Greenwood, Mike Fliniau and Ron Kleiboeker,
McGreevy sisters Erin, Margie, Joyce. (Carolyn must be in First Class!)
© Jim Greenwood

The restored Paris Cafe at The TWA Hotel, JFK Airport New York, evokes travel memories of Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The historic Paris Café offers fresh takes on TWA First Class gourmet classics.
© Joyce McGreevy

Like Kids Again

Immersed in TWA history, my sisters and I become carefree kids again.

TWA pilot’s daughters playing dress-up at the 1962 House of the TWA Hotel, JFK Airport New York, during the TWA Reunion share travel memories of Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

McGreevy sisters dress up as 1962 housewives, a playful contrast to . . .

Helen Collins McGreevy on board a Trans World Airlines Constellation, or “Connie,” in 1958 evokes travel memories of the glamour of TWA. (Image @ McGreevy Archives/ Margie Cozad McGreevy and Joyce McGreevy)

. . .the real-life glamour of our mother, Helen Collins McGreevy.
© Joyce McGreevy/© McGreevy Archives

Heavens Above

The heart of the TWA Hotel is a soaring, light-filled structure, with wing-shaped roof,  fantastically vast windows, a sunken lounge, and overhead walkways.

The newly restored TWA Terminal of the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport New York seen during the TWA Reunion evokes travel memories of Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

This renovation is the nerve center of airline nostalgia, yet in 1962 it was futuristic.
© Joyce McGreevy

The newly restored Solari board at the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport New York seen during the TWA Reunion evokes travel memories of Trans World Airlines. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

To recreate the Solari split-flap message board with authentic mechanical operation,
Morse found the original manufacturers in Udine, Italy.
© Joyce McGreevy

It All Just Clicks

“I love hearing the clicking again!” TWA alumnus Steve Bonniwell grins, recalling New Yorkers who’d gamble on which destinations the board would reveal after each round of clickety-clacks. “You’d hear someone say, ‘I think the third line will be Paris’, and then they’d bet on it!”

Trans World Airlines alumnus Steve Bonniwell attends the TWA Alumni Reunion at the TWA Hotel, JFK Airport New York. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Steve Bonniwell was TWA’s Marketing Director for the International Division in London.
© Joyce McGreevy

Recalling his career with TWA, he beams. “Greatest company I ever worked for. Great people! It was a family. I spent so much time going through this terminal during my 20 years at TWA. Seeing it the way it was is unbelievable.”

Bonniwell’s family reflects the influence of the airline. Son Mark Bonniwell is a pilot, flying 737s for United Airlines.

Trans World Airlines pilot’s daughter Margie McGreevy Cozad meets former TWA pilot Derwin “Dee” Grimm at the TWA Reunion, TWA Hotel, JFK Airport New York, where they share airline travel memories. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Margie meets TWA alumnus Derwin “Dee” Grimm. In 1974, Dee flew co-pilot with our dad
to Madrid, Lisbon, Rome, Cairo, and New York.
© Joyce McGreevy

Sky’s the Limit

As a kid in Kansas City, TWA’s original headquarters, Tracy Briggs dreamed of flight.  Given the family’s tight finances and Tracy’s physical challenges, Briggs’ mom worried that “such dreams were not meant for people like us.”

But Briggs persisted. “I soloed in 1977 and had so much fun I decided to make a career of it.”  Today, Captain Briggs has 40 years of experience in the cockpit. A veteran of TWA, he’s now a pilot for American Airlines. “This is my life, my joy, my passion!”

As for his love? That’s Myra Briggs, the spirited woman who’s been with him every mile of the way.

Myra Briggs, former Trans World Airlines pilot Tracy Briggs, meet other TWA alumni at the TWA Reunion held at the TWA Hotel, JFK Airport New York, and share airline travel memories. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

L to R: Myra Briggs and Capt. Tracy Briggs reunite with TWA alumni.
© Joyce McGreevy

TWA Hotel crew model TWA vintage designer uniforms. L to R: Pearls Daily in 1965 Balmain and Sarah Conrad in 1970s Valentino. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

TWA Hotel crew model TWA vintage designer uniforms. L to R: Pearls Daily in 1965 Balmain
and Sarah Conrad in 1970s Valentino.
© Joyce McGreevy

Beyond Nostalgia

Coined from ancient Greek, nostalgia combines “homecoming,” with “pain,” as if revisiting the past must always be bittersweet. But what my sisters and I witness among alumni at the TWA reunion is joy, gratitude, and zest for new adventures. No wonder everyone looks hale and hearty.

Oh, I see: The glory days of travel are not confined to travel memories, but available to all who travel through life with curiosity, appreciation, and a sense of service to one another.

The realization deepens as we meet the TWA Hotel staff. There’s something familiar about the high standards and heart they bring to their work. Something familiar about .  . .

  • Stephanie Villada reporting for duty on her day off . . .
  • Gail Martin, Tony, Chelsy, and Catalina’s  pride and joy at learning about—and becoming part of —TWA’s history. . .
  • The finesse of Chef de Cuisine Amy Sir-Trevino . . .
  • Sam’s warm welcome at check-in, Donna Lopiccolo’s daily greetings, and Jennifer Jacks’ seamless problem-solving.
Portraits of TWA Hotel staff, JFK Airport New York, remind sisters attending the Trans World Airlines Reunion that the future will create new memories to celebrate. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The TWA Hotel crew are top-flight!
© Joyce McGreevy

Then it dawns on us: What we loved in the airline is now taking shape at the hotel. Beyond our personal travel memories, a promising  new generation of TWA family is forming at the TWA Hotel. We wish them a sense of homecoming and a lifetime of TWA adventures all their own.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Travel Tip: See Chicago in Close-Up

by Joyce McGreevy on October 14, 2019

Chicago at night features surprising little details of America’s best big city, prompting the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Image © by Jennifer Kleiman)

Chicago’s sweeping views are mosaics of historical detail.
© Jennifer Kleiman

A Big City’s Surprising Little Details

Poet Carl Sandburg called Chicago “The City of the Big Shoulders.” America’s third biggest city is known for big sights—as a few little details will show:

  • First skyscrapers? Sorry, New York. They started right here in the 1880s, soaring from 10 to 110 stories in nine decades.
  • That body of water to the east? It’s massive Lake Michigan, more of an inland sea.
  • A “world-dazzling” wheel that rivaled the Eiffel Tower? George Ferris engineered it for the 1893 World’s Fair. We know it as the Ferris Wheel. Today’s version at Navy Pier is a Chicago icon.
Crown Fountain in Millennium Park is one more reason to slow down and focus in Chicago, America’s Conde Nast Best Big City. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Face it, Chicago knows BIG. (Crown Fountain Millennium Park)
© Joyce McGreevy

Best Big City

This month, for the third year in a row Conde Nast crowned Chicago “America’s Best Big City.” Typically, travelers are in a big, big hurry to see it all. From Millennium Park to Willis Tower to the Architectural Boat Tour, Chicago’s big attractions draw big crowds.

But too big a rush makes for one big blur. So as a former local, here’s my travel tip: Slow down and focus on Chicago’s surprising little details.

Consider the Loop, for example, the heart of Chicago’s downtown. Only 1.5 square miles, it’s a world of magnificent architecture, parks, and public art. Seen close-up, it’s a detail lover’s dream, a mosaic of urban history. Here’s a sampler of Chicago’s best reasons to dwell on details.

Holy Cow, It’s Past-Your-Eyes!

Among the most photographed sights in Chicago is a cow.

The bronze cow sculpture at the Chicago Cultural Center tops travel tip lists in Chicago, America’s third biggest city. (Image © by Neil Tobin)

You may take the bull by the horns, but there’s good reason to look this cow in the eyes.
© Neil Tobin

This big bronze bovine stands right outside the Chicago Cultural Center. You can’t miss it.

A family pose with the bronze cow sculpture at the Chicago Cultural Center, a popular attraction in the Conde Nast “Best Big City.” (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Visitors hoof it to see Chicago’s bronze cow.
© Joyce McGreevy

Ah, but there’s something most visitors do miss. Eager to get their photo and moo-ve on, they typically overlook two  little details:

A surprising little detail, Chicago’s Water Tower, in the eye of the bronze cow sculpture at the Chicago Cultural Center evokes the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Image © by Neil Tobin)

Etched in one eye is an image of the Chicago Water Tower.
© Neil Tobin

An etching of a Picasso artwork in the eye of a cow sculpture evokes the travel tip “slow down and focus” on surprising little details in Chicago, (Image © Neil Tobin)

In the other is an image of an untitled sculpture by Picasso.
© Neil Tobin

Oh, I see: The tiniest detail can be a rich repository of history.

Built in 1869, the Water Tower is one of the only buildings that survived the Chicago Fire of 1871. (The notion that Mrs. O’Leary’s cow started the fire, however, is bull.)

Chicago’s Water Tower is linked to a surprising little detail in a sculpture outside Chicago’s Cultural Center that in turn inspired the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Public domain image Afries52 [CC BY 3.0]

Here’s how to house a humble standpipe, Chicago-style.
© Afries52 [CC BY 3.0]

As for the Picasso, some people had a cow when it arrived in 1967. Chicagoan Gwendolyn Brooks, the first black author to win the Pulitzer Prize, anticipated the mixed response in a poem she delivered at the unveiling:

Does man love Art? Man visits Art, but squirms.
Art hurts. Art urges voyages—
and it is easier to stay at home,
the nice beer ready. . . .

People looking at a painting at the Art Institute of Chicago exemplify the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

At the Art Institute of Chicago, visitors are a study in the art of focus.
© Joyce McGreevy

Reading Between the Lions

Housing 300,000 of the world’s greatest artworks, the Art Institute of Chicago is clearly a place to slow down and focus. Those who do will notice fascinating little details even before they step inside.

For instance, two lions have guarded the entrance since 1894. Visitors choosing a lion to photograph often comment that they’re identical.

Only they’re not.

Sculptor Edward Kemeys loved animals and was famous for sketching them in the wild. Would such an artist turn lions into copycats?

One lion growls and prowls. The other, Kemeys noted, “stands in an attitude of defiance.”
© Joyce McGreevy

Ever Wonder “Y”?

Like animals in camouflage, some intriguing Chicago details hide in plain sight. Curiously, the most prolific detail may be the least noted—though many visitors unknowingly photograph it.

The Chicago Theater sign features a surprising little detail, prompting the travel tip “slow down and focus” in America’s Best Big City. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

“Hidden” in this popular landmark is another Chicago icon.
© Joyce McGreevy

Can you see it?

Zoom in.

It’s the Y shape behind CHICAGO.

Why the Y? It represents the three branches of the Chicago River, which splits north and south at Wolf Point.

Once you notice this symbol of civic pride, you start seeing it everywhere—on buildings, bridges, and even staircases:

The Chicago Cultural Center interior features surprising little details, prompting the travel tip “slow down and focus” in this Conde Nast Best Big City. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Spot the Y symbol in mosaic above the Y-shaped staircase in Chicago’s Cultural Center.
© Joyce McGreevy

Eyes Up

It’s funny how pixels on a few square inches of phone screen can commandeer our attention. Meanwhile, 1.6 million of Chicago’s most spectacular details often go unnoticed—even by locals, reportedly.

What—where?

Start at the former Marshall Field & Company, now part of a national retail chain. Built in 1873, it was once the world’s biggest department store. Today, its five elegant stories still dominate State Street.

Enter at street level and walk through a warren of cosmetic counters until you reach the center.

Now look up.

The mosaic ceiling by Louis Comfort Tiffany at the former Marshall Field, Chicago (now Macy’s) inspires the travel tip “slow down and focus” in America’s Best Big City. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Feast your eyes on the largest ceiling ever built with favrile glass.
© Joyce McGreevy

Little details of a mosaic by Louis Comfort Tiffany at the former Marshall Field, Chicago (now Macy’s) dazzles visitors who heed the travel tip “slow down and focus”. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

The iridescent glass was created by Louis Comfort Tiffany, who patented the process.
© Joyce McGreevy

Tiffany’s mosaics enchanted early 20th-century Chicago. Today you can follow the “Tiffany Trail” to 14 venues.

An Urban Mosaic

“In the Big City, large and sudden things happen,” wrote that master of surprise, O. Henry. True, but seen close-up, a big city’s little details can suddenly enlarge your sense of place.

That’s why my travel tip for Chicago is slow down and focus. Some of the city’s biggest surprises are found in the smallest details.

Shadows cast by ornamental ironwork links small details to the history of America’s third biggest city at the Chicago Cultural Center. (Image © by Neil Tobin)

Details of Chicago’s Cultural Center evoke the landmark’s rich history.
© Neil Tobin

Thanks to Jennifer Kleiman and Neil Tobin for their stunning images of Chicago.

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Growing Up “TWA”

by Joyce McGreevy on September 30, 2019

A vintage TWA poster about aviation heritage evokes travel inspiration. (Image in the public domain)

Originating as a mail carrier, Trans World Airlines became a global passenger service.
(public domain)

When Travel Inspiration Took Flight

There once was a boy named Wally and an airline called TWA. The boy and the airline are gone now.  But just as a jet leaves behind a contrail, a bright cloud-path that draws your gaze across the sky, the boy and the airline left a legacy.

Oh, I see: This is about a different kind of travel inspiration. The way our journeys influence the journeys of others, helping  them navigate their way.

Overcoming Strong Headwinds

One day the boy looked skyward and imagined what it would be like to fly. He dreamed of becoming a pilot, seeing the world, learning other languages.

This was during the Great Depression. Nobody he knew in Ohio was doing such things, and even his teacher doubted the value of learning other languages.

But the boy held fast to his dreams.

A young man at a piano will one day become a TWA pilot and a source of travel inspiration to his children. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Portrait of a young man with big dreams
© McGreevy archives

By 19, Wally was a B-24 captain in World War II. The B-24 had a tendency to blow up and it happened to him over the Pacific. Treading shark-infested water all night, the young man held fast to dreams.

He survived and was awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross.

Kindred Navigators

Meanwhile in Arizona, a young woman held fast to dreams. Growing up, she traveled the world—through the pages of books.

After the war, these kindred spirits met. Two weeks later, they married. Wally became a pilot for TWA. Forty years later, Helen and Wally had traveled the world and navigated life’s challenges together.

Among their fellow passengers were my siblings and me.

A Trans World Airlines pilot in the cockpit evokes travel inspiration. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Dad flew everything from early Martin aircraft to 747s.
© McGreevy archives

This Is Your Captain Speaking

The stereotype about parents who are pilots is that they’re never home.

In reality, pilots’ hours were strictly limited so Dad was home a lot.  And I don’t mean presiding from an armchair like the all-knowing, do-little dads on ’50s TV. Our dad was “all in.”

In postwar America, Dad also eschewed macho stereotypes at work.  Unlike the godlike pilots of Hollywood movies—men who uttered lines like I run a tight ship!—Captain “Mac” McGreevy was proud to part of a crew.

Back then, we could tag along behind the scenes, meeting everyone who kept TWA planes in the air: mechanics, meteorologists, flight dispatchers, gate agents, baggage handlers, maintenance workers, flight attendants, and engineers.

Each worked with wide-awake focus so airline passengers could sleep peacefully at 30,000 feet.

The wallet I.D. card of a TWA pilot displays the qualities that made Trans World Airlines popular with passengers and beloved by TWA alumni and families. (Image © McGreevy archives)

“The On-Time Airline,” TWA made flying a special experience, regardless of where one sat.
© McGreevy archives

A Storied Airline

Growing up as part of the TWA experience was special. This was a storied airline that achieved many firsts. First coast-to-coast scheduled flights, first transcontinental non-stops, first airline to have pilots file a flight plan, first to trade piston aircraft for smoother, quieter, roomier, all-weather jets. Even the first to offer fresh coffee and in-flight movies.

TWA was glamorous, too. Your chances of sitting beside a movie legend, even in Economy, were good.

A 1970 photo of Cary Grant, shown with the writer Joyce McGreevy at age 15 on a Trans World Airlines flight, evokes TWA’s golden age as a nexus of travel inspiration and glamour. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Cary Grant and other screen legends flew TWA and were usually happy to chat.
© McGreevy archives

Hub, Sweet Hub

Every TWA hub was home.

Home, because whatever the airport call letters, wherever the country, Dad had flown there and made friends. Home, because the TWA Terminal at John F. Kennedy Airport (JFK) felt like an extension of our house. Home, because everyone in TWA uniform was a role model, such was the bond we shared and the example they set.

Imagine having family in every city of the world.

Up, Up, and Away!

Each TWA terminal was also a portal to new worlds. The “flight path” of Dad’s TWA years literally broadened our horizons.

A 1960s photo of travelers, including the writer’s family, at Versailles evokes travel inspiration and memories of TWA’s golden age. (Image © McGreevy archives)

France, 196os: traveling with kids was uncommon. Can you spot my family?
© McGreevy archives

Just don’t call it free travel.  I did that once.

“No,” Dad said gently, “Your mother and I earned it.” In an era when homemaking went largely unrecognized as work, it was a telling comment: In every endeavor, Dad saw himself as a partner or crew member, never solo.

That perspective traveled with him. Dad related to every culture he visited. He and Mom introduced us to new languages, foods, and friends, to multifaceted ways of looking at life.

Hard Landings

Dad passed away in 1996. The airline outlived him by only five years. The beautiful TWA Terminal at JFK became an abandoned shell. Each loss amplified our grief.

Oh, but the legacy.

Two generations have followed Dad’s flight path of inspiration—they included pilots, an aviation photographer, a flight attendant, a NASA engineer. Some have pursued international studies and travel writing. Many are connected by friendship or marriage to families around the world.

TWA Today

TWA lives in memory, too. On aviation websites and private Facebook groups, TWA alumni worldwide post about their years of service to “a wonderful airline, where every cabin was first class.” They share TWA stories, post vintage TWA commercials, discuss aircraft, and support a TWA Museum.

How many defunct companies do you know that still inspire such love?

A collection of Trans World Airlines memorabilia is a source of travel inspiration and happy memories for the daughter of a TWA pilot. (Image © Margie McGreevy)

Many TWA alumni and their families collect memorabilia.
© courtesy of Margie McGreevy

Purpose of  Visit: Celebration!

And the abandoned terminal at JFK?  Saved from the wrecking ball, gloriously restored, and given new purpose.

Soon four McGreevy sisters will return home—to the new TWA Hotel at JFK. There we’ll raise a glass to our favorite TWA captain. Given the upcoming TWA Employee Reunion, we plan to share stories with TWA alumni and will then update readers on OIC Moments. Stay tuned.

Until then, “Thank you for flying,” TWA. Your travel inspiration takes flight within me still and helps me navigate my way.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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