Les Bouquinistes
© Meredith Mullins

The Bouquinistes: Icons of Paris Culture

Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night . . .

From this familiar and inspiring creed, you may think this story is going to be about a diligent U.S. postal carrier. Not so.

For this “Oh, I see” adventure, we travel to the banks of the Seine for cultural encounters with the riverside Paris booksellers—the bouquinistes (pronounced boo-kin-eests).

Through snow and rain . . .
© Meredith Mullins

This iconic community, like postal carriers, are dedicated to their job—in all seasons, in all kinds of weather. The bouquinistes have been officially authorized in Paris for more than 160 years.

This literary tradition is an integral part of Paris culture. A commonly heard description is that the Seine is the only river in the world that flows between bookshelves.

An integral part of Paris culture
© Meredith Mullins

Bouquiniste Life

Most of the personalities that you meet today on the quay have been selling for 10 or 20 or more years. They are the epitome of timeless Paris. And they love their job.

Bouquiniste Michel has enjoyed this relatively stress-free life for 20 years.
© Meredith Mullins

They open the timeworn green boxes lining the upper quays along the Seine, and voilà—an open-air book market spills out onto the sidewalks, revealing the bouquinistes’ allegiance to Paris’ literary heritage, as well as their unconditional appreciation of books.

A miniature bookstore in the open air
© Meredith Mullins

Some displays look exactly like miniature bookstores. Some look more like tiny antique book fairs or mini flea markets.

A trove of tiny treasures
© Meredith Mullins

Some stalls, because of today’s trend away from print materials (thanks to the omnipresent internet), include more than just books as the sellers struggle to earn a living—from postcards to posters to keychains to magnets to coasters to other tiny treasures.

Inventory to appeal to tourists and supplement the sales of used and antique books
© Meredith Mullins

Whatever the range of inventory, each 10-meter space on the quay represents the personality of the sellers.

Some bouquinistes are specialists, like American Sydney, who has read every book in her stall and strives to connect each customer with the right book.

Bouquiniste Sydney believes “Books are cheaper than therapy.”
© Oliver Gee

Some are generalists, like Albert, who collects all kinds of treasures—from pipes to antique cameras to coins— so that his stall can attract a more diverse clientele (or, as he puts it, so his stall comes closer to reflecting the controlled chaos of his home).

Bouquiniste Albert has a wide variety of treasures.
© Meredith Mullins

In any event, the treasures are all tucked in at night, back into the four boxes allocated to each vendor, and are secured by metal bars, padlocks, and blind faith that no one will dare violate the time-honored bookseller legacy by stealing (although, sadly, tagging is common).

All materials are tucked back in at night, with a hope that their security is assured
through respect of the profession.
© Meredith Mullins

A Dream Job?

As difficult as the job might seem because of the challenges of long hours in an outdoor setting (weather, street noise, pollution, and tons of looky loo tourists during high seasons), the bouquinistes tend to relish the freedom that comes with the territory.

A freedom of selection, although most everything
is covered in plastic because of the outdoor elements
© Meredith Mullins

They can work in their own rhythm, as long as they open their stalls an average of four days a week throughout the year. They pay no monthly rent or taxes.

They can sell the things that they know best or the things that they believe fit their loyal clients’ needs. And, for most, sitting by the river, reading, watching the passing parade, or talking with people who love books, is a stress-free way to spend time.

A bouquiniste’s helper, just passing the time along the banks of the Seine
© Meredith Mullins

The long waitlist to become a bouquiniste is a testimony to the appeal of such freedom. There are now more than 200 commissioned sellers, reportedly offering more than 300,000 books along the three-kilometer stretch of river.

The wait time is several years, and once you’ve passed your interview and been assigned your four boxes, it often it takes many more years to work your way to your preferred spot (seniority rules).

Along the Quai de la Tournelle
© Meredith Mullins

The bouquiniste stalls are from Quai Voltaire to Pont Sully on the left bank and from Quai du Louvre to Pont Marie on the right bank. It seems to be a matter of personal opinion as to what the best spots are.

Brigitte has loved her spot for ten years at the eastern border near Pont Sully. But, the President of the Cultural Association of Paris Bouquinistes, Jérôme Callais, prefers his stall downriver on the Quai Conti between the Pont des Arts and the Pont Neuf. He has been a bouquiniste for 28 years.

What can be learned from a study of bouquiniste collections?
© Meredith Mullins

Understanding the Culture

What can we learn from the bouquinistes, besides the fact that their common denominator is a love of books?

By carefully browsing the stalls, we gain an overview of French culture and history. Which authors appear? Voltaire, Rimbaud, Verlaine, Camus, Colette, Daumier, Hugo, Balzac, Sand, Dumas, Zola, Proust, Sartre, and de Beauvoir. Which authors are most translated? Shakespeare, Beckett, Hesse, Nabokov, Joyce, Cervantes, Hemmingway, and Baldwin.

Books, books, and more books
© Meredith Mullins

We find the Marquis de Sade (for the wild in us) next to Saint Exupéry’s Le Petit Prince (for the child in us at all ages).

The books, magazines, newspapers, and posters are an exposition of French culture, from cinema to cultural idols to sports figures to events such as the Tour de France and the World Cup. Also featured are old Playboys (for the articles, of course) and old newspapers for the headlines of history.

Posters that reveal much about Paris culture
© Meredith Mullins

Posters of Yoga cats and Yoga dogs (a must buy), the Moulin Rouge, absinthe, musicians well-known to Paris (The Doors, Janis Joplin, The Beatles, Queen, Miles Davis) show us what trends took hold, not to mention what makes the French laugh, such as Asterix, Babar, and Tintin humor.

Yoga cats and dogs. Pourquoi pas?
© Meredith Mullins

Snowglobes of monuments (although snow is rare in Paris), magnets, and prints of street scenes are offered primarily for tourists, but we can certainly learn from illustrations of French flora and fauna, maps, and old postcards that show the history of Paris through the last few centuries.

Old postcards offer another view of Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

Like so many of the French traditions in a city that welcomes evolution, the bouquinistes are a potentially endangered species. They have applied for UNESCO World Heritage status to remain an integral part of Paris culture. In the meantime, they welcome our support.

So, take a stroll along the Seine and breathe in the essence of Paris—cultural encounters of the literary kind.

Thank you to Oliver Gee’s The Earful Tower and French Moments for inspiration. To hear a podcast from The Earful Tower with the American bouquiniste Sydney, click here. 

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.