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Travel Cultures Language

Travel Tip: See Chicago in Close-Up

by Joyce McGreevy on October 14, 2019

Chicago at night features surprising little details of America’s best big city, prompting the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Image © by Jennifer Kleiman)

Chicago’s sweeping views are mosaics of historical detail.
© Jennifer Kleiman

A Big City’s Surprising Little Details

Poet Carl Sandburg called Chicago “The City of the Big Shoulders.” America’s third biggest city is known for big sights—as a few little details will show:

  • First skyscrapers? Sorry, New York. They started right here in the 1880s, soaring from 10 to 110 stories in nine decades.
  • That body of water to the east? It’s massive Lake Michigan, more of an inland sea.
  • A “world-dazzling” wheel that rivaled the Eiffel Tower? George Ferris engineered it for the 1893 World’s Fair. We know it as the Ferris Wheel. Today’s version at Navy Pier is a Chicago icon.
Crown Fountain in Millennium Park is one more reason to slow down and focus in Chicago, America’s Conde Nast Best Big City. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Face it, Chicago knows BIG. (Crown Fountain Millennium Park)
© Joyce McGreevy

Best Big City

This month, for the third year in a row Conde Nast crowned Chicago “America’s Best Big City.” Typically, travelers are in a big, big hurry to see it all. From Millennium Park to Willis Tower to the Architectural Boat Tour, Chicago’s big attractions draw big crowds.

But too big a rush makes for one big blur. So as a former local, here’s my travel tip: Slow down and focus on Chicago’s surprising little details.

Consider the Loop, for example, the heart of Chicago’s downtown. Only 1.5 square miles, it’s a world of magnificent architecture, parks, and public art. Seen close-up, it’s a detail lover’s dream, a mosaic of urban history. Here’s a sampler of Chicago’s best reasons to dwell on details.

Holy Cow, It’s Past-Your-Eyes!

Among the most photographed sights in Chicago is a cow.

The bronze cow sculpture at the Chicago Cultural Center tops travel tip lists in Chicago, America’s third biggest city. (Image © by Neil Tobin)

You may take the bull by the horns, but there’s good reason to look this cow in the eyes.
© Neil Tobin

This big bronze bovine stands right outside the Chicago Cultural Center. You can’t miss it.

A family pose with the bronze cow sculpture at the Chicago Cultural Center, a popular attraction in the Conde Nast “Best Big City.” (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Visitors hoof it to see Chicago’s bronze cow.
© Joyce McGreevy

Ah, but there’s something most visitors do miss. Eager to get their photo and moo-ve on, they typically overlook two  little details:

A surprising little detail, Chicago’s Water Tower, in the eye of the bronze cow sculpture at the Chicago Cultural Center evokes the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Image © by Neil Tobin)

Etched in one eye is an image of the Chicago Water Tower.
© Neil Tobin

An etching of a Picasso artwork in the eye of a cow sculpture evokes the travel tip “slow down and focus” on surprising little details in Chicago, (Image © Neil Tobin)

In the other is an image of an untitled sculpture by Picasso.
© Neil Tobin

Oh, I see: The tiniest detail can be a rich repository of history.

Built in 1869, the Water Tower is one of the only buildings that survived the Chicago Fire of 1871. (The notion that Mrs. O’Leary’s cow started the fire, however, is bull.)

Chicago’s Water Tower is linked to a surprising little detail in a sculpture outside Chicago’s Cultural Center that in turn inspired the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Public domain image Afries52 [CC BY 3.0]

Here’s how to house a humble standpipe, Chicago-style.
© Afries52 [CC BY 3.0]

As for the Picasso, some people had a cow when it arrived in 1967. Chicagoan Gwendolyn Brooks, the first black author to win the Pulitzer Prize, anticipated the mixed response in a poem she delivered at the unveiling:

Does man love Art? Man visits Art, but squirms.
Art hurts. Art urges voyages—
and it is easier to stay at home,
the nice beer ready. . . .

People looking at a painting at the Art Institute of Chicago exemplify the travel tip “slow down and focus.” (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

At the Art Institute of Chicago, visitors are a study in the art of focus.
© Joyce McGreevy

Reading Between the Lions

Housing 300,000 of the world’s greatest artworks, the Art Institute of Chicago is clearly a place to slow down and focus. Those who do will notice fascinating little details even before they step inside.

For instance, two lions have guarded the entrance since 1894. Visitors choosing a lion to photograph often comment that they’re identical.

Only they’re not.

Sculptor Edward Kemeys loved animals and was famous for sketching them in the wild. Would such an artist turn lions into copycats?

One lion growls and prowls. The other, Kemeys noted, “stands in an attitude of defiance.”
© Joyce McGreevy

Ever Wonder “Y”?

Like animals in camouflage, some intriguing Chicago details hide in plain sight. Curiously, the most prolific detail may be the least noted—though many visitors unknowingly photograph it.

The Chicago Theater sign features a surprising little detail, prompting the travel tip “slow down and focus” in America’s Best Big City. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

“Hidden” in this popular landmark is another Chicago icon.
© Joyce McGreevy

Can you see it?

Zoom in.

It’s the Y shape behind CHICAGO.

Why the Y? It represents the three branches of the Chicago River, which splits north and south at Wolf Point.

Once you notice this symbol of civic pride, you start seeing it everywhere—on buildings, bridges, and even staircases:

The Chicago Cultural Center interior features surprising little details, prompting the travel tip “slow down and focus” in this Conde Nast Best Big City. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Spot the Y symbol in mosaic above the Y-shaped staircase in Chicago’s Cultural Center.
© Joyce McGreevy

Eyes Up

It’s funny how pixels on a few square inches of phone screen can commandeer our attention. Meanwhile, 1.6 million of Chicago’s most spectacular details often go unnoticed—even by locals, reportedly.

What—where?

Start at the former Marshall Field & Company, now part of a national retail chain. Built in 1873, it was once the world’s biggest department store. Today, its five elegant stories still dominate State Street.

Enter at street level and walk through a warren of cosmetic counters until you reach the center.

Now look up.

The mosaic ceiling by Louis Comfort Tiffany at the former Marshall Field, Chicago (now Macy’s) inspires the travel tip “slow down and focus” in America’s Best Big City. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Feast your eyes on the largest ceiling ever built with favrile glass.
© Joyce McGreevy

Little details of a mosaic by Louis Comfort Tiffany at the former Marshall Field, Chicago (now Macy’s) dazzles visitors who heed the travel tip “slow down and focus”. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

The iridescent glass was created by Louis Comfort Tiffany, who patented the process.
© Joyce McGreevy

Tiffany’s mosaics enchanted early 20th-century Chicago. Today you can follow the “Tiffany Trail” to 14 venues.

An Urban Mosaic

“In the Big City, large and sudden things happen,” wrote that master of surprise, O. Henry. True, but seen close-up, a big city’s little details can suddenly enlarge your sense of place.

That’s why my travel tip for Chicago is slow down and focus. Some of the city’s biggest surprises are found in the smallest details.

Shadows cast by ornamental ironwork links small details to the history of America’s third biggest city at the Chicago Cultural Center. (Image © by Neil Tobin)

Details of Chicago’s Cultural Center evoke the landmark’s rich history.
© Neil Tobin

Thanks to Jennifer Kleiman and Neil Tobin for their stunning images of Chicago.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Growing Up “TWA”

by Joyce McGreevy on September 30, 2019

A vintage TWA poster about aviation heritage evokes travel inspiration. (Image in the public domain)

Originating as a mail carrier, Trans World Airlines became a global passenger service.
(public domain)

When Travel Inspiration Took Flight

There once was a boy named Wally and an airline called TWA. The boy and the airline are gone now.  But just as a jet leaves behind a contrail, a bright cloud-path that draws your gaze across the sky, the boy and the airline left a legacy.

Oh, I see: This is about a different kind of travel inspiration. The way our journeys influence the journeys of others, helping  them navigate their way.

Overcoming Strong Headwinds

One day the boy looked skyward and imagined what it would be like to fly. He dreamed of becoming a pilot, seeing the world, learning other languages.

This was during the Great Depression. Nobody he knew in Ohio was doing such things, and even his teacher doubted the value of learning other languages.

But the boy held fast to his dreams.

A young man at a piano will one day become a TWA pilot and a source of travel inspiration to his children. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Portrait of a young man with big dreams
© McGreevy archives

By 19, Wally was a B-24 captain in World War II. The B-24 had a tendency to blow up and it happened to him over the Pacific. Treading shark-infested water all night, the young man held fast to dreams.

He survived and was awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross.

Kindred Navigators

Meanwhile in Arizona, a young woman held fast to dreams. Growing up, she traveled the world—through the pages of books.

After the war, these kindred spirits met. Two weeks later, they married. Wally became a pilot for TWA. Forty years later, Helen and Wally had traveled the world and navigated life’s challenges together.

Among their fellow passengers were my siblings and me.

A Trans World Airlines pilot in the cockpit evokes travel inspiration. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Dad flew everything from early Martin aircraft to 747s.
© McGreevy archives

This Is Your Captain Speaking

The stereotype about parents who are pilots is that they’re never home.

In reality, pilots’ hours were strictly limited so Dad was home a lot.  And I don’t mean presiding from an armchair like the all-knowing, do-little dads on ’50s TV. Our dad was “all in.”

In postwar America, Dad also eschewed macho stereotypes at work.  Unlike the godlike pilots of Hollywood movies—men who uttered lines like I run a tight ship!—Captain “Mac” McGreevy was proud to part of a crew.

Back then, we could tag along behind the scenes, meeting everyone who kept TWA planes in the air: mechanics, meteorologists, flight dispatchers, gate agents, baggage handlers, maintenance workers, flight attendants, and engineers.

Each worked with wide-awake focus so airline passengers could sleep peacefully at 30,000 feet.

The wallet I.D. card of a TWA pilot displays the qualities that made Trans World Airlines popular with passengers and beloved by TWA alumni and families. (Image © McGreevy archives)

“The On-Time Airline,” TWA made flying a special experience, regardless of where one sat.
© McGreevy archives

A Storied Airline

Growing up as part of the TWA experience was special. This was a storied airline that achieved many firsts. First coast-to-coast scheduled flights, first transcontinental non-stops, first airline to have pilots file a flight plan, first to trade piston aircraft for smoother, quieter, roomier, all-weather jets. Even the first to offer fresh coffee and in-flight movies.

TWA was glamorous, too. Your chances of sitting beside a movie legend, even in Economy, were good.

A 1970 photo of Cary Grant, shown with the writer Joyce McGreevy at age 15 on a Trans World Airlines flight, evokes TWA’s golden age as a nexus of travel inspiration and glamour. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Cary Grant and other screen legends flew TWA and were usually happy to chat.
© McGreevy archives

Hub, Sweet Hub

Every TWA hub was home.

Home, because whatever the airport call letters, wherever the country, Dad had flown there and made friends. Home, because the TWA Terminal at John F. Kennedy Airport (JFK) felt like an extension of our house. Home, because everyone in TWA uniform was a role model, such was the bond we shared and the example they set.

Imagine having family in every city of the world.

Up, Up, and Away!

Each TWA terminal was also a portal to new worlds. The “flight path” of Dad’s TWA years literally broadened our horizons.

A 1960s photo of travelers, including the writer’s family, at Versailles evokes travel inspiration and memories of TWA’s golden age. (Image © McGreevy archives)

France, 196os: traveling with kids was uncommon. Can you spot my family?
© McGreevy archives

Just don’t call it free travel.  I did that once.

“No,” Dad said gently, “Your mother and I earned it.” In an era when homemaking went largely unrecognized as work, it was a telling comment: In every endeavor, Dad saw himself as a partner or crew member, never solo.

That perspective traveled with him. Dad related to every culture he visited. He and Mom introduced us to new languages, foods, and friends, to multifaceted ways of looking at life.

Hard Landings

Dad passed away in 1996. The airline outlived him by only five years. The beautiful TWA Terminal at JFK became an abandoned shell. Each loss amplified our grief.

Oh, but the legacy.

Two generations have followed Dad’s flight path of inspiration—they included pilots, an aviation photographer, a flight attendant, a NASA engineer. Some have pursued international studies and travel writing. Many are connected by friendship or marriage to families around the world.

TWA Today

TWA lives in memory, too. On aviation websites and private Facebook groups, TWA alumni worldwide post about their years of service to “a wonderful airline, where every cabin was first class.” They share TWA stories, post vintage TWA commercials, discuss aircraft, and support a TWA Museum.

How many defunct companies do you know that still inspire such love?

A collection of Trans World Airlines memorabilia is a source of travel inspiration and happy memories for the daughter of a TWA pilot. (Image © Margie McGreevy)

Many TWA alumni and their families collect memorabilia.
© courtesy of Margie McGreevy

Purpose of  Visit: Celebration!

And the abandoned terminal at JFK?  Saved from the wrecking ball, gloriously restored, and given new purpose.

Soon four McGreevy sisters will return home—to the new TWA Hotel at JFK. There we’ll raise a glass to our favorite TWA captain. Given the upcoming TWA Employee Reunion, we plan to share stories with TWA alumni and will then update readers on OIC Moments. Stay tuned.

Until then, “Thank you for flying,” TWA. Your travel inspiration takes flight within me still and helps me navigate my way.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Italy Without a Suitcase

by Joyce McGreevy on September 16, 2019

People gather at Caffe Cagliostro in the Italian Quarter, Dublin, Ireland, one of many Little Italy enclaves around the world that celebrate Italian culture. Image © Andrea Romano

Conversation flows at Caffe’ Cagliostro in Dublin’s Italian Quarter.
Ireland is home to 9,000 Irlandiani, Irish of Italian ancestry.
© Andrea Romano/ Caffè Cagliostro

Italian Culture, Around the Corner

Dreaming of Italy? It may be closer than you think. From 1880 to 1980, 15 million Italians migrated to other countries. Today, across five continents, over 60 neighborhoods claim the moniker Little Italy.

Several U.S. and Canadian cities boast a Little Italy. So do pockets of Australia, Brazil, and Mexico. There’s a Little Milano in Gothenburg, Sweden,  a Little Rome in Asmara, Eritrea, a Piccola Italia in Malindi, Kenya.

Oh, I see: Celebrating Italian culture is a global experience.

Italian TAYLOR-ing

In Chicagoland, a dozen Italian enclaves formed after 1850. The best known is West Taylor Street, historically Chicago’s largest community of mostly Southern Italians.

At Scafuri Bakery, employee Aria Davis beams as she serves macchiato and lemon ricotta cake.

“We’ve been here since 1904,” says Aria, 21, whose passion for Italian culture led her to live in Sardinia for a year.  She points to a vintage  family portrait above the counter.

“See how there’s almost an aura around one woman? That’s Annette Mategrano. She was absolutely amazing, a successful businesswoman back when that was uncommon.”

Staff at Scafuri Bakery take pride in the Italian culture of Chicago’s Little Italy, West Taylor Street. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Framed by images of the Scafuri-Mategrano family, co-workers Doriann, Aria, and Ben
share a love of Italian culture.
© Joyce McGreevy

Annette’s parents emigrated from Calabria, opened the bakery, and sustained it through tough times. During the Depression they gave away bread to families who couldn’t afford the 3-cent cost. In 1955, the torch passed to Annette. She also opened a restaurant, working double shifts until she retired—at 90. Today, great-nieces Michelle and Kelly continue her legacy.

Ron Onesti, Marie De Marinis, and Demond Moore help Chicagoans celebrate the Italian culture of Little Italy, West Taylor Street. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Faces of Little Italy (L to R): Director of Chicago’s Italian festivals, Ron Onesti was born on
Taylor Street. Marie De Marinis and  Demond Moore delight diners at Davanti Enoteca.
© Joyce McGreevy

When you’re around West Taylor Street, be sure to…

  • Buy  panini and  vini at Conte Di Savoia.
  • Eat pappardelle at the original Rosebud.
  • Sip lemon ice at Mario’s.

Where Pasta Meets Present

Two miles and many nostalgic decades away, lies “Heart of Italy,” known for its Tuscan families. In the 1900s, many new arrivals traded farming for farm-equipment factory work at McCormick Reaper, “McComio,” as Chicago’s Italians called it.

Today Heart of Italy still beats with pride. It’s a neighborhood where many have been friends since childhood, where locals share anecdotes that go back five generations.

Heart of Italy, Chicago draws diners to 24th and Oakley.
© Joyce McGreevy

You needn’t be Italian to feel like a local. At Ignotz Ristorante, owner Roger Wroblewski and bartender Candy Minx welcome you like a favorite cousin who’s here for the family reunion.

It’s one of those cozy places you could dine alone without feeling like a loner, a convivial joint where every story at the bar is worth remembering. Ask Roger about the night Frankie Avalon dropped by.

Roger Wroblewski is proud that Ignotz Ristorante celebrates Italian culture in Chicago’s Heart of Italy. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Like Heart of Italy, Ignotz is rooted in love of family, regard for the past,
and appreciation of everyday pleasures.
© Joyce McGreevy

Here, food is for eating, not Instagramming. Pastas are hearty and soul-satisfying. Well, as the Italians say, Esse nufesso qui dice male di macaroni: “Only an idiot speaks badly of macaroni.”

If you must go “keto,” tuck into Ignotz’s lemony, succulent chicken a la tippi. Then ditch the diet and dive into the chocolate spumoni.

To fall in love with Chicago’s Heart of Italy, be sure to…

Italia alla Francese 

In Montréal,  lively Petite-Italie combines the Québécois love of festival with a daily dose of  dolce vita.

Switching between French, Italian, and English is common practice in Petite-Italie.
© Joyce McGreevy

There’s something for everyone—music of the Italian Baroque, frescoes in a Romanesque church, summer cinema in the park, and the most authentic Italian food this side of l’Atlantico, from cinghiale (wild boar) to handmade pasta al nero di seppia infused with cuttlefish ink.

Backyards give way to grape arbors, flowers cascade from balconies, and the street scene hums. Soccer mania lives on at Bar Sportivo as do sociable games of bocce in Dante Park.

Food products at Milano, a grocery store in Petite-Italy, the Little Italy of Montréal, reflect its Italian culture. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Fruterie Milano, a sprawling Italian grocery, is a destination in itself.
© Joyce McGreevy

When visiting Montréal’s Petite-Italie, be sure to…

San Diego Serenissimo

In Southern California, la passeggiata, or pre-dinner stroll, begins  as the sun sets over San Diego Bay. Here, generations of Italians  once made their living on the sea.

Sailboats evoke the Italian families who made their living from the sea in San Diego, California, where Italian culture is celebrated in the city’s Little Italy. Image © SanDiego.org

Families from Sicily and Italy’s Riviera founded the fishing fleet and canning industry
that made San Diego the tuna capital of the West.
© Courtesy SanDiego.org

Today, Little Italy is a vibrant neighborhood with outdoor cafés, wineries, shops, and boutique hotels.

People line up at Filippi’s Pizza Grotto in San Diego’s Little Italy, a hub of Italian culture. Image © Joanne DiBona/ SanDiego.org

A fixture since 1950, the petite Filippi’s Pizza Grotto draws crowds in San Diego.
© Courtesy Joanne DiBona SanDiego.org

Piazza Della Famiglia is a gathering place for concerts and cultural events. Piazza Basilone and other San Diego piazze commemorate Italian-American history. Amici Park and Waterfront Park reflect the importance of beautiful public spaces to the Italian lifestyle. Little Italy Food Hall offers a variety of food stations, cooking demos, and wine tastings.

When you’re in San Diego’s Little Italy, be sure to…

E Tu?

Where is your Little Italy? San Francisco’s North Beach or Boston’s North End? Hidden in Clerkenwell, London or in Italian-influenced Malta? Is it molto Manhattan or completamente Bronx?

To share your hidden gems with the OIC community, just leave a  Comment and tell us why the Little Italy you like is so special.

Note:  The author accepted no freebies and is solely responsible for any pounds gained.

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