Oh, I see! moments
Travel Cultures Language

The Travel Ninja’s Lost and Found

by Eva Boynton on March 9, 2015

A passport and wallet left on the ground while two people walk away, illustrating one problem a travel ninja must deal with after losing everything. (Image © Creatas)

A traveler’s worst nightmare
© Creatas

Travel Tips: How to Bounce Back After Losing Everything

It takes only a moment, literally seconds, to change a trajectory, a plan, a journey. That’s the moment when you lose everything.

I have slippery fingers (in the sense that I often lose things). I misplace an item, forget to take it with me, or stash it somewhere so secret, so perfectly hidden that I never find it again.

When I travel abroad, however, lost and found has come to have a different meaning for me. Yes, I have left on flights from Lima, Zurich, and Mexico City without money and belongings—all lost— but I have also come home with wisdom found through a series of Oh, I see” moments.

The wise travel tips here surfaced during these moments after losing what seemed like everything and finding the creativity of my travel ninja within.

Green mountains in the Basque country of northern Spain, showing the location of the travel ninja's first "Oh, I see" moment that led to important travel tips. (Image © Eva Boynton)

This journey began in the green hills of the Basque country.
© Eva Boynton

A Fairytale Landscape Sets the Scene

In 2011, I started walking the Camino de Santiago (Road to Santiago). The Camino is a network of pilgrimage routes and trails across Europe, each leading to Santiago de Compostela, Spain, and the cathedral there that is said to house the remains of the apostle Saint James.

Walking from one small town to another, I met Camino walkers from around the world. The first major city I encountered was on the sixth day when I confidently strode up to the walls of Pamplona.

A yellow arrow sign on the side of the Camino de Santiago for walkers to follow, showing the start of the travel ninja's education in travel tips. (Image © Eva Boynton)

Reading the signs
© Eva Boynton

With each step of my mud-caked boots, foreboding music squished out from underneath the soles. But somehow I missed the cue.

I left my backpack with two fellow walkers while I used a cafe’s bathroom.

When I returned to my friends, I quickly realized I was empty-handed. The wallet I had carried with me into the bathroom was missing.

I ran right back, but to my utter dismay and feared prediction I found a bare room.

Travel Ninja Tip #1: Slow down and organize. Secure important belongings by designating separate pockets for them in luggage and clothing or by duct-taping them onto your body. Always take a moment to scan an area before leaving.

An old travel wallet with passport, illustrating the lost item of a travel ninja. (image © Eva Boynton)

I lost my wallet and what seemed like my ticket home.
© Eva Boynton

Stopped in My Tracks

My wallet held my passport and the last of my traveling money (about 300 dollars/276 euros).

A lump formed in my throat. I was nauseous. The consequences of these life-changing minutes and seconds simmered. I felt the loss that always comes with abrupt and unwanted change.

Goodbye walking. Hello bureaucratic paperwork and phone calls. I had to backtrack to France by bus on a ticket funded by my Camino friends.

Sad-faced woman seen through the window of a train, showing a moment of learning after everything is lost that led to travel tips by a wiser travel ninja. (Image © Eva Boynton)

The bus ride was a suspended moment of disbelief and regret at a trip cut short.
© Eva Boynton

Right outside my window were fairytale hills decorated with sheep, cows and wild horses. But I spent the ride cursing my reflection and missing out on the view.

Once we reached France, the bus stopped and so did my pernicious wallowing. It was time to move on and decide my next move.

Travel Ninja Tip #2: Accept and move on. Rip off the band aid of self-pity to uncover a new journey. This helps to avoid a bad case of the should-a, would-a, could-a’s.

Passport book open with overlapping stamps, showing what the travel ninja lost and found (image © Jon Rawlinson

A new passport meant new pages to fill.
© Jon Rawlinson

Securing a New Identity

With the last of my gifted money and the help of generous strangers, I reached the American Embassy in Paris. I was asked a series of questions to verify my identity.

Unfortunately, I got the main one wrong (my parents’ dates of birth, now engraved in my brain). The clerk was suspicious and angry with me. To make matters worse I did not have a second form of ID. Behind the glass window, embassy staff spent 30 minutes discussing my future.

My name was called and, to my surprise, I was asked to raise my right hand and answer the question, “Do you swear you are Eva Claire Boynton?”

I replied, “I do.” I was stamped, verified, and half-way home.

Travel Ninja Tip #3: Embrace unlikely surprises. While traveling, solutions to roadblocks can appear out of thin air. With a little luck and good humor someone may offer to bend the rules or lead you along the back roads.

TGV train in Paris, France, showing a challenge for the penniless travel ninja and inspiring creative travel tips. (Image © Sheron Long)

Although they are time-efficient, fast trains cost a pretty penny.
That’s bad news for the penniless traveler.
© Sheron Long

The Travel Ninja Awakens

My last challenge was getting to Zurich for my flight. I had found my Eurail pass, allowing me to ride trains in France. But, of course, there was a catch.

Although Eurail passes function as a ticket, a costly reservation is also needed to claim a seat on a TGV (train à grande vitesse, or high-speed train). I was in the homestretch: Paris to Zurich. I needed 20 euros to reserve a seat. I had no cash left, and I was $150 in debt from borrowing money for my passport.

TGV train stopped at a station, illustrating the journey of a travel ninja that led to travel tips for what to do when you lose everything. (Image © Sheron Long)

So close, yet so far
© Sheron Long

I took a deep breath, stepped onto the TGV, stored my backpack, walked three cars down, and opened the bathroom door. I split the next eight hours between four bathrooms (switching so as not to appear suspicious).

My flight was leaving the following morning, and I was going to be on it.

Girl in train bathroom with scared expression, showing the travel ninja's journey after losing everything and gaining insight for her travel tips. (Image © Eva Boynton)

Walls of a public latrine were no French countryside, but I was
not about to be derailed by a simple reservation fee.
© Eva Boynton

The stress of being caught eased as time passed and I realized my quick thinking had paid off. After losing everything, I was going to make my flight.

My journey began and ended with a bathroom. The travel ninja within me turned the birthplace of my problem into an unlikely solution. I lost my wallet and found my own, creative way home.

Travel Ninja Tip #4: Adapt and get creative. You are more creative than you think. Keep your eyes and ears open for your own lavatory, ready to be adapted into a ticket home.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

The Art of Traveling Without Preconceptions

by Meredith Mullins on November 19, 2014

Abandoned chateau in Goussainville, a place that shows the art of traveling without preconceptions (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

Goussainville Vieux Pays: the surprising ghost town just outside of Paris
© Meredith Mullins

The Ghost Town of Goussainville

I expected broken windows, graffiti, boarded up doors, wall-engulfing vines, dilapidation, decay, and, yes, even the occasional tumbleweed.

After all, Goussainville Vieux Pays had been described by many writers as a ghost town. A flurry of recent articles told the dramatic story of the exodus that had happened forty years earlier.

The images and words painted a bleak picture. A once-thriving farming village had died—an innocent victim of the invasive noise of a new airport.

Doorway of the chateau in Goussainville, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

No longer a paradise (the 19th century manor house)
© Meredith Mullins

In the Flight Path

The quiet rural town just north of Paris landed in the flight path of Charles de Gaulle airport in 1974. Jets came and went every few minutes, shaking the walls of the village houses, breaking the silence. The residents began leaving the town.

Even the year before the airport opened, the fate of the town seemed sealed when a Russian Concorde prototype crashed into the village during the Paris Air Show, hitting several buildings, including an empty school, and killing all six people on board and eight people on the ground.

By the end of 1974, almost all of the residents had moved to a quieter (safer) location in neighboring towns and Paris itself.

vine-covered house in Goussainville, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

Perfect for a mystery movie set
© Meredith Mullins

Ghost Town: A Phantom Adventure

The “abandoned village” is where most of the writers and bloggers left the story, with photographs of the buildings artfully decomposing, a few structures appearing consistently in all the articles.

Armed with these backstories and visions of tumbleweed dancing in my head, I set out for Goussainville Vieux Pays a few weeks ago. I was ready to capture the essence of fantôme and decay, the sad story of human displacement at the expense of “progress.”

abandoned chateau in goussainville france, a destination for the art of traveling without preconceptions (Photo © Meredith Mullins

You can play the game of “Find the Jet” almost every moment.
Photo © Meredith Mullins

Media Spin

I was surprised to find something different from what the writers had led me to believe, a real-life example of the selective presentation by the media to dramatize a story.

The Goussainville park, in a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The beautiful Goussainville Park
© Meredith Mullins

There were parked cars, curtains and flower boxes in some of the windows, a bit of building construction, a working school, a bookstore stuffed to the brim, an occasional pedestrian, a beautifully maintained park . . . and no tumbleweeds (or at least they had been cleaned up in the daily trash pickup).

Goussainville Vieux Pays was not a ghost town.

Daily trash pickup in Goussainville, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The friendly daily trash pickup
© Meredith Mullins

Granted, the town was less populated than most. There are no restaurants or markets (yet). And, it was true that many of the buildings that had been purchased by the airport authorities to compensate the townspeople had not been maintained.

Many were in disrepair, and the main manor house in town, owned by descendants of the early 1800s mayor, has evolved into a collapsing outer shell and rubble.

doorway to Goussainville manor house with crossbeam, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The decay of the manor house
© Meredith Mullins

Life in Goussainville

The people who have come to live here are a special breed. They must live with the relentless sound of jets—every two minutes or so. And jet engines are loud, very loud.

Monsieur Essel in front of his house in Goussainville, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

Monsieur Essel in front of his home of 26 years
© Meredith Mullins

“The planes don’t bother me,” said Monsieur Essel, a town maintenance worker who has lived in Goussainville for 26 years. “I don’t hear them much anymore.”

Nicolas Mahieu, the owner of the Goussainlivres, an antique Librarie (bookstore), doesn’t hear them either. The sound of heavy metal music amidst the stacks drowns out the jet engines.

Nicolas Mahieu in front of his bookstore, Goussainlivres, in Goussainville, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

Nicolas Mahieu, the owner of Goussainlivres
© Meredith Mullins

And since people come to him from many miles away to bring him antique books or to buy from his special collection (in person or virtually), he doesn’t mind that there isn’t much foot traffic in Goussainville.

Slumped roof house in Goussainville, a ghost town that inspires the art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The photos can tell whatever Goussainville story you want to tell.
© Meredith Mullins

The Art of Traveling

I admit I was disappointed when I entered Goussainville and saw immediate evidence that it was not a ghost town.

I was upset with all those writers who had misled their readers “by omission” and painted a picture (with well-selected photos) that made their story more dramatic.

But, the art of traveling is based on being open to whatever you find. Or better still, traveling with no preconceptions.

The Goussainville church, in a ghost town that inspires that art of traveling (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The 14th century church is undergoing restoration.
© Meredith Mullins

Oh, I See

What I found was an interesting town—one that had its share of dramatic decay and photo ops, but one that was coming alive again.

The property prices are low (fixer-upper anyone?), the town is friendly, and, with the rate of air-travel-related strikes in France, there might be more moments of quiet than one might expect.

Comment on this post, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

The Magic and Mystery of The Orient Express

by Meredith Mullins on May 5, 2014

The dining car of the Orient Express, which offered life-changing experiences as it linked two worlds. (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The elegance of The Orient Express
© Meredith Mullins

Life-Changing Experiences Riding the Rails

Trains have always held a certain fascination for those with a traveler heart. But when the words “Orient Express” are uttered, an evocative world of myth and mystery, luxury and intrigue inevitably comes to mind. Such a journey often offered life-changing experiences.

What images emerge for you?

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