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Do You Know Your Onions?

by Joyce McGreevy on November 26, 2019

Allium flowers reflect the surprising beauty of a staple of every world cuisine, onions. (Image by Sheila Brown, CCO Public Domain)

Take time to smell the . . . onions?
Sheila Brown CCO Public Domain

Crossing Cultures: Peeling the Layers of a Truly Global Food

Quick—what food is a staple of every global cuisine?

Wheat? Nope.  Rice? Guess again. Uh, potatoes? B-z-z-z! Game over!

It’s the onion.

Piles of fresh onions, a food known for crossing cultures, showcase the appeal of this staple of global cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Americans eat 22 lbs. of onions per person per year, placing 5th after Libya (66 lbs).
© Joyce McGreevy

It’s grown in over 175 countries—twice as many as wheat, according to United Nations estimates. The UN Food and Agriculture Organization lists China as the world’s largest producer of onions, followed by India, the United States, Turkey, and Pakistan.

Oh, I see: The vegetable that makes eyes water also makes mouths water across cultures.

Put on your goggles as we peel away the layers to see why onions are the apple of every culture’s eye.

Older Than Thyme?

Onions have been cropping up in recipes for more than 5,000 years. Originating between present-day Iran and Pakistan, they could be grown in all kinds of soil and stored for long periods. As a result, onion farming spread quickly around the world.

How quickly? So quickly that when European explorers ‘”introduced” onions to the Americas, they discovered that onions were already there.

The Chicago River reminds a writer that the city’s name derived from the river’s wild onions, one of many varieties crossing cultures as a staple of global cuisine. (Public domain image by Image by bk_advtravir/Pixabay)

Chicago’s name derives from a Native American word for wild onions that grew along its river.
Image by bk_advtravir/Pixabay

Nature’s Ninja

Experts recently declared onions “nutritional powerhouses,” but many world cultures have known that for thousands of years. Egypt’s pyramid builders ate them every day. So did the armies of Alexander the Great.

Onions also crossed cultures as an early form of medicine. From ancient Rome to early India, onions became a cure-all for everything from blisters to battle wounds.

According to Dioscorides, a first-century Greek physician, Olympian athletes fortified themselves by eating onions, drinking onion juice, and rubbing onions all over their bodies. That’s one way to keep the competition—and everyone else—at bay.

A fresco from Pompeii shows that onions, originally from Asia, have been crossing cultures to become a staple of global cuisine since ancient times. (public domain image)

A fresco from Pompeii reflects onions’ prominence in Roman cuisine.
[public domain]

A faded painting by Vincent van Gogh shows that onions, even aside from being a staple of global cuisines, have inspired art across cultures. (public domain image from Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation))

In 1887, onions and cabbages inspired this now-faded still life by Vincent van Gogh.
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation) [public domain]

Speaking of Onions

Onions have rooted themselves across cultures, sometimes in surprising ways. Take food idioms, for instance:

  • In Britain, “You know your onions” praises someone’s expertise.
  • But in France, S’occupe-toi tes oignons (“Take care of your onions”) means “Mind your own business!”
  • And in Iran, Mam na sar-e piâzam na tah-e piâz (“I’m neither the top nor the bottom of the onion”) means “It doesn’t concern me at all!”
A thick-skinned red onion, believed to predict weather, signifies that, even aside from being a staple of global cuisine, alliums have influenced ideas across cultures. (public domain image from Pxhere)

Can onions predict weather? An old English rhyme says yes: “Onion skins very thin,
/Mild winter coming in./Onion skins very tough,/ Coming winter very rough.”

The Global Prime Ingredient

Today, most world cuisines are built on a base of onions.  Several countries feature their own distinctive version of a “culinary trinity”—a three-ingredient combination used to establish a culture’s signature flavor. Now check out the common denominator:

  • Italian Battuto: onion, garlic, parsley
  • Lousiana Cajun base: onions, bell peppers, and celery
  • Spain’s Sofrito: onions, tomatoes, garlic
  • Portugal’s Refogado: onions, peppers, tomatoes
  • Hungary’s top trio: onion, paprika, lard
  • India’s top trio: onion, garlic, ginger
  • West Africa’s top trio: onions, chili peppers, tomatoes
  • Chinese Xiang Cong base: green onions, ginger, garlic
  • French Mirepoix: onions, carrots, celery
Containers of French mire-poix is one example of a “culinary trinity” with onions, a global food base crossing cultures in a variety of ways. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

It’s my mire-poix and I’ll cry if I want to! But tear-free options are easy to find.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Gallivanting Globe

For travelers who love to cook, onions at farmers markets offer the affordable pleasure of broadening one’s palate.

Produce at Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne market includes alliums like onions, a culture crossing staple of global cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Shop Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne market to cook Denmark’s famous
Bløde Løg, pan-fried onions.
© Joyce McGreevy

From the Tokyo Long White to the golden German Stuttgart to India’s rosy Arka Bindhu, onions are edible globes that embody global cuisine’s variety.

In Italy, cipolline, flat purple or white onions have a surprisingly buttery taste brought out by simmering or roasting. Cook them low and slow with a dash of espresso and a splash of Montepulciano to make rich gravy for an Italian-style pot roast.

Sautéed ramps in a pan reflect the wide range of the allium family, which includes onions, a staple of global cuisine across cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The Allium family includes the onion’s wild cousin, ramps (above), scallions, shallots, garlic,
leeks, and chives.
© Joyce McGreevy

In France, “gray” shallots, (échalotes grises/griselles) are more colorful than their name suggests. Count on them to add complexity to a creamy vinaigrette.

North American farmers markets are also rich in choices: New York’s potent “Black Dirt” onions, Texan and Georgian Vidalias,  Washington’s Walla Walla and Siskiyou, Hawaii’s Maui onions.

Why Did the Onion Cross the Road?

For sheer global expansiveness, there’s the Egyptian Walking Onion, also known as the Welsh Onion, native to India or Pakistan, and introduced to Europe by the Romans. It’s also the world’s most unusual onion: Bulbs grow up top like fruit on a tree and then topple over, causing new plants to grow—hence the effect of “walking” across a field.

Chive blossoms reflect the delicate side of a pungent staple of world cuisine, onions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

These are onions? Edible chive blossoms show onions’ more delicate side.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Multi-Layered Experience

Whether you chew it or eschew it, the humble onion has moved across cultures and earned worldwide recognition. It has even moved in and out of the food scene, obsessed over by ancient Mesopotamian cooks, used as European currency, and made into eco-friendly dyes in many countries.

In India, this staple of global cuisine has affected economic policy. In the U.S., onions figured into federal law—after two rapscallions cornered the onion market, causing a nationwide stink. Just listen to the wild, true “Tale of the Onion King” and you’ll really know your onions.

In short, the onion dips into history, runs rings around other veggies, and really stands up to a grilling.

An onion-topped slice of Italian pizza shows why onions are a staple of global cuisine, crossing cultures from Italy to India. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Comacchio, Italy, onions add bite to a slice. How do you like onions?
© Joyce McGreevy

Ready to peel some onions? Our downloadable PDF offers a world tour of recipe ideas for using this most versatile vegetable.

 

Comment on the post below.

Growing Up “TWA”

by Joyce McGreevy on September 30, 2019

A vintage TWA poster about aviation heritage evokes travel inspiration. (Image in the public domain)

Originating as a mail carrier, Trans World Airlines became a global passenger service.
(public domain)

When Travel Inspiration Took Flight

There once was a boy named Wally and an airline called TWA. The boy and the airline are gone now.  But just as a jet leaves behind a contrail, a bright cloud-path that draws your gaze across the sky, the boy and the airline left a legacy.

Oh, I see: This is about a different kind of travel inspiration. The way our journeys influence the journeys of others, helping  them navigate their way.

Overcoming Strong Headwinds

One day the boy looked skyward and imagined what it would be like to fly. He dreamed of becoming a pilot, seeing the world, learning other languages.

This was during the Great Depression. Nobody he knew in Ohio was doing such things, and even his teacher doubted the value of learning other languages.

But the boy held fast to his dreams.

A young man at a piano will one day become a TWA pilot and a source of travel inspiration to his children. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Portrait of a young man with big dreams
© McGreevy archives

By 19, Wally was a B-24 captain in World War II. The B-24 had a tendency to blow up and it happened to him over the Pacific. Treading shark-infested water all night, the young man held fast to dreams.

He survived and was awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross.

Kindred Navigators

Meanwhile in Arizona, a young woman held fast to dreams. Growing up, she traveled the world—through the pages of books.

After the war, these kindred spirits met. Two weeks later, they married. Wally became a pilot for TWA. Forty years later, Helen and Wally had traveled the world and navigated life’s challenges together.

Among their fellow passengers were my siblings and me.

A Trans World Airlines pilot in the cockpit evokes travel inspiration. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Dad flew everything from early Martin aircraft to 747s.
© McGreevy archives

This Is Your Captain Speaking

The stereotype about parents who are pilots is that they’re never home.

In reality, pilots’ hours were strictly limited so Dad was home a lot.  And I don’t mean presiding from an armchair like the all-knowing, do-little dads on ’50s TV. Our dad was “all in.”

In postwar America, Dad also eschewed macho stereotypes at work.  Unlike the godlike pilots of Hollywood movies—men who uttered lines like I run a tight ship!—Captain “Mac” McGreevy was proud to part of a crew.

Back then, we could tag along behind the scenes, meeting everyone who kept TWA planes in the air: mechanics, meteorologists, flight dispatchers, gate agents, baggage handlers, maintenance workers, flight attendants, and engineers.

Each worked with wide-awake focus so airline passengers could sleep peacefully at 30,000 feet.

The wallet I.D. card of a TWA pilot displays the qualities that made Trans World Airlines popular with passengers and beloved by TWA alumni and families. (Image © McGreevy archives)

“The On-Time Airline,” TWA made flying a special experience, regardless of where one sat.
© McGreevy archives

A Storied Airline

Growing up as part of the TWA experience was special. This was a storied airline that achieved many firsts. First coast-to-coast scheduled flights, first transcontinental non-stops, first airline to have pilots file a flight plan, first to trade piston aircraft for smoother, quieter, roomier, all-weather jets. Even the first to offer fresh coffee and in-flight movies.

TWA was glamorous, too. Your chances of sitting beside a movie legend, even in Economy, were good.

A 1970 photo of Cary Grant, shown with the writer Joyce McGreevy at age 15 on a Trans World Airlines flight, evokes TWA’s golden age as a nexus of travel inspiration and glamour. (Image © McGreevy archives)

Cary Grant and other screen legends flew TWA and were usually happy to chat.
© McGreevy archives

Hub, Sweet Hub

Every TWA hub was home.

Home, because whatever the airport call letters, wherever the country, Dad had flown there and made friends. Home, because the TWA Terminal at John F. Kennedy Airport (JFK) felt like an extension of our house. Home, because everyone in TWA uniform was a role model, such was the bond we shared and the example they set.

Imagine having family in every city of the world.

Up, Up, and Away!

Each TWA terminal was also a portal to new worlds. The “flight path” of Dad’s TWA years literally broadened our horizons.

A 1960s photo of travelers, including the writer’s family, at Versailles evokes travel inspiration and memories of TWA’s golden age. (Image © McGreevy archives)

France, 196os: traveling with kids was uncommon. Can you spot my family?
© McGreevy archives

Just don’t call it free travel.  I did that once.

“No,” Dad said gently, “Your mother and I earned it.” In an era when homemaking went largely unrecognized as work, it was a telling comment: In every endeavor, Dad saw himself as a partner or crew member, never solo.

That perspective traveled with him. Dad related to every culture he visited. He and Mom introduced us to new languages, foods, and friends, to multifaceted ways of looking at life.

Hard Landings

Dad passed away in 1996. The airline outlived him by only five years. The beautiful TWA Terminal at JFK became an abandoned shell. Each loss amplified our grief.

Oh, but the legacy.

Two generations have followed Dad’s flight path of inspiration—they included pilots, an aviation photographer, a flight attendant, a NASA engineer. Some have pursued international studies and travel writing. Many are connected by friendship or marriage to families around the world.

TWA Today

TWA lives in memory, too. On aviation websites and private Facebook groups, TWA alumni worldwide post about their years of service to “a wonderful airline, where every cabin was first class.” They share TWA stories, post vintage TWA commercials, discuss aircraft, and support a TWA Museum.

How many defunct companies do you know that still inspire such love?

A collection of Trans World Airlines memorabilia is a source of travel inspiration and happy memories for the daughter of a TWA pilot. (Image © Margie McGreevy)

Many TWA alumni and their families collect memorabilia.
© courtesy of Margie McGreevy

Purpose of  Visit: Celebration!

And the abandoned terminal at JFK?  Saved from the wrecking ball, gloriously restored, and given new purpose.

Soon four McGreevy sisters will return home—to the new TWA Hotel at JFK. There we’ll raise a glass to our favorite TWA captain. Given the upcoming TWA Employee Reunion, we plan to share stories with TWA alumni and will then update readers on OIC Moments. Stay tuned.

Until then, “Thank you for flying,” TWA. Your travel inspiration takes flight within me still and helps me navigate my way.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Italy Without a Suitcase

by Joyce McGreevy on September 16, 2019

People gather at Caffe Cagliostro in the Italian Quarter, Dublin, Ireland, one of many Little Italy enclaves around the world that celebrate Italian culture. Image © Andrea Romano

Conversation flows at Caffe’ Cagliostro in Dublin’s Italian Quarter.
Ireland is home to 9,000 Irlandiani, Irish of Italian ancestry.
© Andrea Romano/ Caffè Cagliostro

Italian Culture, Around the Corner

Dreaming of Italy? It may be closer than you think. From 1880 to 1980, 15 million Italians migrated to other countries. Today, across five continents, over 60 neighborhoods claim the moniker Little Italy.

Several U.S. and Canadian cities boast a Little Italy. So do pockets of Australia, Brazil, and Mexico. There’s a Little Milano in Gothenburg, Sweden,  a Little Rome in Asmara, Eritrea, a Piccola Italia in Malindi, Kenya.

Oh, I see: Celebrating Italian culture is a global experience.

Italian TAYLOR-ing

In Chicagoland, a dozen Italian enclaves formed after 1850. The best known is West Taylor Street, historically Chicago’s largest community of mostly Southern Italians.

At Scafuri Bakery, employee Aria Davis beams as she serves macchiato and lemon ricotta cake.

“We’ve been here since 1904,” says Aria, 21, whose passion for Italian culture led her to live in Sardinia for a year.  She points to a vintage  family portrait above the counter.

“See how there’s almost an aura around one woman? That’s Annette Mategrano. She was absolutely amazing, a successful businesswoman back when that was uncommon.”

Staff at Scafuri Bakery take pride in the Italian culture of Chicago’s Little Italy, West Taylor Street. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Framed by images of the Scafuri-Mategrano family, co-workers Doriann, Aria, and Ben
share a love of Italian culture.
© Joyce McGreevy

Annette’s parents emigrated from Calabria, opened the bakery, and sustained it through tough times. During the Depression they gave away bread to families who couldn’t afford the 3-cent cost. In 1955, the torch passed to Annette. She also opened a restaurant, working double shifts until she retired—at 90. Today, great-nieces Michelle and Kelly continue her legacy.

Ron Onesti, Marie De Marinis, and Demond Moore help Chicagoans celebrate the Italian culture of Little Italy, West Taylor Street. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Faces of Little Italy (L to R): Director of Chicago’s Italian festivals, Ron Onesti was born on
Taylor Street. Marie De Marinis and  Demond Moore delight diners at Davanti Enoteca.
© Joyce McGreevy

When you’re around West Taylor Street, be sure to…

  • Buy  panini and  vini at Conte Di Savoia.
  • Eat pappardelle at the original Rosebud.
  • Sip lemon ice at Mario’s.

Where Pasta Meets Present

Two miles and many nostalgic decades away, lies “Heart of Italy,” known for its Tuscan families. In the 1900s, many new arrivals traded farming for farm-equipment factory work at McCormick Reaper, “McComio,” as Chicago’s Italians called it.

Today Heart of Italy still beats with pride. It’s a neighborhood where many have been friends since childhood, where locals share anecdotes that go back five generations.

Heart of Italy, Chicago draws diners to 24th and Oakley.
© Joyce McGreevy

You needn’t be Italian to feel like a local. At Ignotz Ristorante, owner Roger Wroblewski and bartender Candy Minx welcome you like a favorite cousin who’s here for the family reunion.

It’s one of those cozy places you could dine alone without feeling like a loner, a convivial joint where every story at the bar is worth remembering. Ask Roger about the night Frankie Avalon dropped by.

Roger Wroblewski is proud that Ignotz Ristorante celebrates Italian culture in Chicago’s Heart of Italy. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Like Heart of Italy, Ignotz is rooted in love of family, regard for the past,
and appreciation of everyday pleasures.
© Joyce McGreevy

Here, food is for eating, not Instagramming. Pastas are hearty and soul-satisfying. Well, as the Italians say, Esse nufesso qui dice male di macaroni: “Only an idiot speaks badly of macaroni.”

If you must go “keto,” tuck into Ignotz’s lemony, succulent chicken a la tippi. Then ditch the diet and dive into the chocolate spumoni.

To fall in love with Chicago’s Heart of Italy, be sure to…

Italia alla Francese 

In Montréal,  lively Petite-Italie combines the Québécois love of festival with a daily dose of  dolce vita.

Switching between French, Italian, and English is common practice in Petite-Italie.
© Joyce McGreevy

There’s something for everyone—music of the Italian Baroque, frescoes in a Romanesque church, summer cinema in the park, and the most authentic Italian food this side of l’Atlantico, from cinghiale (wild boar) to handmade pasta al nero di seppia infused with cuttlefish ink.

Backyards give way to grape arbors, flowers cascade from balconies, and the street scene hums. Soccer mania lives on at Bar Sportivo as do sociable games of bocce in Dante Park.

Food products at Milano, a grocery store in Petite-Italy, the Little Italy of Montréal, reflect its Italian culture. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Fruterie Milano, a sprawling Italian grocery, is a destination in itself.
© Joyce McGreevy

When visiting Montréal’s Petite-Italie, be sure to…

San Diego Serenissimo

In Southern California, la passeggiata, or pre-dinner stroll, begins  as the sun sets over San Diego Bay. Here, generations of Italians  once made their living on the sea.

Sailboats evoke the Italian families who made their living from the sea in San Diego, California, where Italian culture is celebrated in the city’s Little Italy. Image © SanDiego.org

Families from Sicily and Italy’s Riviera founded the fishing fleet and canning industry
that made San Diego the tuna capital of the West.
© Courtesy SanDiego.org

Today, Little Italy is a vibrant neighborhood with outdoor cafés, wineries, shops, and boutique hotels.

People line up at Filippi’s Pizza Grotto in San Diego’s Little Italy, a hub of Italian culture. Image © Joanne DiBona/ SanDiego.org

A fixture since 1950, the petite Filippi’s Pizza Grotto draws crowds in San Diego.
© Courtesy Joanne DiBona SanDiego.org

Piazza Della Famiglia is a gathering place for concerts and cultural events. Piazza Basilone and other San Diego piazze commemorate Italian-American history. Amici Park and Waterfront Park reflect the importance of beautiful public spaces to the Italian lifestyle. Little Italy Food Hall offers a variety of food stations, cooking demos, and wine tastings.

When you’re in San Diego’s Little Italy, be sure to…

E Tu?

Where is your Little Italy? San Francisco’s North Beach or Boston’s North End? Hidden in Clerkenwell, London or in Italian-influenced Malta? Is it molto Manhattan or completamente Bronx?

To share your hidden gems with the OIC community, just leave a  Comment and tell us why the Little Italy you like is so special.

Note:  The author accepted no freebies and is solely responsible for any pounds gained.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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