Jan

Memorable Moments: Favorite Paris Pop-Ins

by Your friends at OIC on January 29, 2018

When is it not a good time to drop in on Paris?
© iStock

One of the things that truly marks an “Oh, I see!” moment is that it stays with you, long after the moment itself has passed. So while we give our bloggers a chance to repack their suitcases and chart the courses for their next set of experiences and adventures, we thought it would be fun to look back at some posts from the past that have really stuck with us.

In this set, we take a look back at a few of our favorite Paris haunts. Whether you’re experiencing them for the first time, or revisiting them as we are, the discoveries and insights abound. Enjoy!

Lighting of the candle at the Chambres des Notaires auction by the candle, a Paris cultural experience that mixes old with new.

Paris auction “by the candle”
© Meredith Mullins

A Paris Cultural Experience: Auctions by Candle

The “vente à la bougie” (sale by the candle) dates from the 15th century, where waiting for the candle to burn out after each bid was meant to give everyone a fair chance at thoughtful buying. Today, it remains a charming tradition . . . and adds a certain elegant (and humorous!) quality to the auction. Go to the post.

Boy in blue shirt patting cat: Living a Happier Life at the Cat Cafe in Paris (Photo © Meredith Mullins)

The Cat Café: A place to have a pet of your own for an afternoon (Meet Marguerite)
© Meredith Mullins

The Cat Café: A Purrfect Paris Place to Pause

Margaux Gandelon, the owner of Le Café des Chats, envisioned a place where people could come and relax with a range of cat personalities—where stroking your favorite cat or engaging in cat play or just having a lap cat for a few hours could add to your day. Go to the post.

Creative inspiration from Shakespeare and Company, a Paris bookstore

Shakespeare and Company Bookstore in Paris
© Meredith Mullins

Creative Inspiration in a Paris Bookstore

Opened in in 1951, Shakespeare and Company soon became a literary haven and creative inspiration for some of the best expat and visiting writers of the time, including Lawrence Durrell, Samuel Beckett, Allen Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, William Burroughs, Jack Kerouac, Gregory Corso, Anaïs Nin, Henry Miller, and James Baldwin. Go to the post.

To keep the Paris tidbits and treasures coming, try entering “Paris” in the search bar to the left! And to find a new “Oh, I see!” moment every week in your inbox, take this opportunity to subscribe.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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France (Paris)

Dec

Angels of Paris

by Meredith Mullins on December 18, 2017

The angels of Paris are abundant (from the Church of Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre).
© Rosemary Flannery

The Most Celestial of Cultural Symbols

Happy holidays to all! This festive season surrounds us with sparkling lights, fir trees of all shapes and sizes, menorahs, wish lists, santas, elves, mangers, jingling bells, and heralding angels. We celebrate with a variety of cultural symbols at this time of year.

One of these symbols, however, has more than just a holiday presence. Angels can be full-time residents, finding a home in history and architectural design, especially in a city such as Paris.

Take a closer look, often toward the sky. Oh, I see. Angels are everywhere—in plain view and in some magically surprising places.

An armored angel at the Louvre
© Hemera Technologies/Ablestock.com

Angels of Paris

In Paris, these celestial spirits play many roles. They are protectors, guardians, caretakers, defenders, messengers, musicians, frolickers, celebrants, warriors, religious heralds, and just plain rejoicers. Some are serious. Some are whimsical.

The name “angel” comes from the Greek word “angelos,” which means messenger. Angels are thought to be a link between heaven and earth. Thus, they are usually in high places, reaching toward the sky.

Two gold creatures atop the Petit Palais in Paris, some of the angels of Paris that serve as a cultural symbol. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Not all winged creatures are angels. These graceful figures atop the Petit Palais,
represent Fame and Victory.
© Meredith Mullins

They are diverse, beautiful, and, as Paris angel expert Rosemary Flannery says, “They reflect the spirit of their times”—from the Middle Ages to the 21st Century.

They live on monuments, churches, mansions, theatres, museums, palaces, and in parks, fountains, and on street corners.

There are so many Paris angels that Ms. Flannery had the challenging task of narrowing the field for her book “Angels in Paris”—a difficult job when so many stories begged to be told.

Now, OIC is being even more selective as we feature our six favorite angels from Ms. Flannery’s elite group.

Red door with grill work of an angel and a dove in Paris, one of the Paris angels that serves as a cultural symbol. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

Intricate grill work on the door of #66 Rue Greneta
© Rosemary Flannery

The Angel and the Dove

Cast-iron door grills in Paris were an architectural decoration that became popular from the 1830s to 1850s.

Here, at #66 Rue Greneta in the second arrondissement, everyone who passes through the bright red door is greeted by this intricately designed angel and dove—a constant reminder of protection, peace, and harmony. What a wonderful welcome to the building.

Close up of the angel and the dove at #66 Rue Greneta in Paris, one of the Paris angels that serves as a cultural symbol. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

The angel and the dove
© Rosemary Flannery

The Working Angels of the Theatre de Châtelet

“Why not put the angels to work?” thought one building designer in 1862.

And so the angels on the rooftop of the Theatre de Châtelet steady a spire made of lead that serves as a lightning rod. Thus, the building is protected against a strike during one of the Paris thunderstorms (thank you Benjamin Franklin for the 1752 invention).

Two angels and a spire atop the Theatre de Châtelet in Paris, one of the Paris angels that serves as a cultural symbol. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

Theatre de Châtelet angels, protecting against lightning strikes
© Rosemary Flannery

Two pairs of muscular, curly-haired angels, with wisps of wings, hold tight and avert their gaze (although someone should mention the old adage: never turn your back on a lightning strike).

One angel pair is on the eastern façade of the theatre and one pair is on the west.

Guardian angel on the side of the Church of the Madeleine in Paris, one of the Paris angles that serves as a cultural symbol. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

“Don’t mess with me,” says the guardian angel on the Church of the Madeleine.
© Rosemary Flannery

A Guardian of the Church of the Madeleine

Some say that each of us has a guardian angel, to guide us when times are challenging. Whether this is true or not, a guardian angel is clearly present on the northwest corner of the Church of the Madeleine.

She has a “Don’t mess with me,” look about her, with muscular wings to add to her powerful stature. She also, oddly, carries a crosier (usually carried by bishops).

She was carved in stone by Theophile Bra, an eccentric considered by his friends George Sand and Balzac to be a genius. He was also prone to hallucinations and mystical experiences, some of which can perhaps be sensed in this angel’s gaze.

Gold-painted angels at the Sorbonne sundial, angels of Paris that serve a cultural symbols. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

The sundial angels of the Sorbonne
© Rosemary Flannery

Passing Time with the Angels

Angels often serve an important function when they appear in historic stories. At the Sorbonne, a sundial created in 1676 (and moved to the Galerie Robert de Sorbon in the honor courtyard in 1899) hosts two angels, painted in gold, assisting in marking the passing of time.

One holds a compass to measure the dimensions of the earth. The other stands ready to record notes on a stone tablet. High above the engraved markings of the sundial, the Greek god of the sun races against time in his horse-drawn chariot, celebrating each new day and passing hours.

A tall angel on Rue Turbigo, one of the Paris angels that serve as cultural symbols. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

An angel on Rue Turbigo that commands attention
© Rosemary Flannery

The Tallest Angel in Town?

Many of the angels of Paris are tucked away in hidden corners or so high on building tops that a significant backward head tilt is necessary to see them. Not so with the angel of #57 Rue Turbigo, which rises three stories on a busy street corner to watch over the neighborhood.

This well-dressed angel is there to be seen as it smiles over its palais collectif (shared palace), which is now an apartment building.

The architect, Eugène Demangeat, of the 1850s Haussmann building period, had an interesting artistic challenge—to soften the edge of this building to fit the oblique angle of the street.

He remembered a lighthouse design by Emile-August Delange, a student at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts et Architecture, that featured an angel and had been recognized for “poetic artistry.” (It didn’t hurt that the name Delange translates to “of the angel.” Hmmm.) It was the perfect solution for the structure.

The final sculpture was flat enough to fit the building codes, which prohibited projections. And, its wings support the fourth floor balcony with grace.

The archangel Michael in the Place de St Michel fountain in Paris, one of the Paris angels who serve as a cultural symbol. (Image © wjarek/iStock.)

The archangel Michael (Michel) in the Place St-Michel
© W. Jarek/iStock

A King of Archangels

Another high-profile angel lives in the grand fountain of Place St. Michel. This warrior angel—Michael— is seen by millions of people every year and has the honor of having a square, boulevard, fountain, and bridge all named after him.

It’s a deserved accolade since he fights a valiant battle against evil . . . and he edged out Napoleon Bonaparte for this coveted fountain position.

His theatrical pose is inspired by Raphael’s painting of Michael and the dragon at the Louvre museum.

A portal of the cathedral of Notre-Dame, showing angels of Paris that serve as cultural symbols. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The angels, interspersed among other historic notables on the portals of the
Cathedral of Notre-Dame, are the oldest in Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

Paris: A City of Light, Love . . . and Angels

Paris has thousands of angels watching over the city or going about their daily angel business in their historically layered architectural worlds.

As cultural symbols, the interpretations of angels are diverse. However, The “Oh, I see” moments come when we take the time to discover . . . to really look at the details of the world . . . and to look in places where we might least expect to find an angel.

Happy holidays to all, and may the new year bring you angels in whatever form works best for you.

Stone carving of an angel playing a mandolin, one of the angels of Paris who serve as a cultural symbol. (Image © Rosemary Flannery.)

One of Nicolas Flamel’s medieval angel musicians, who bring the heavenly harmony
of music to the stone house at 51, Rue de Montmorency.
© Rosemary Flannery

Many thanks to Rosemary Flannery and her excellently researched book “Angels in Paris.” She studied her subject for years—reading historic documents, wandering the Paris streets on “angel alert,” and working in libraries most people don’t even know exist.

The French and English books "Angels in Paris," showing angels as a cultural symbol in Paris. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Rosemary Flannery’s “Angels of Paris”
© Meredith Mullins

The English version of “Angels in Paris” is published by The Little Bookroom. The French version is published by Editions Guy Tredaniel/Editions Exergue. You can also find more angel-related material here.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Meredith Mullins 6 Comments

Cultural Symbols/France (Paris)

Dec

Paris Honey: The Bees Knees

by Meredith Mullins on December 4, 2017

Bees in a beehive on honeycomb, part of discovering nature in Paris with urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Shaiith/iStock.)

Paris Honey: The Bees Knees
© Shaiith/iStock

Urban Beekeeping Amid the Monuments

A hint of red berries. Deep molasses notes. A whiff of lychee. A dash of wet earth. A long clove finish. Are we tasting a Burgundy, a Southern Rhône, or a Bordeaux?

Actually . . . none of the above. In fact, we are talking about another kind of liquid treasure. Honey. Pure and (not so) simple.

In a city such as Paris, where gardens are a tradition and where residents tend to make the best of vertical space, bees are all the buzz. Paris honey is in.

Audric de Campeau of Le Miel de Paris at Ecole Militaire in Paris, discovering nature through urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Le Miel de Paris.)

Hives atop the Paris École Militaire
Photo Courtesy of Le Miel de Paris

Paris would like to be the capital, not just of light and love, but of urban beekeeping.

The wide variety of flora, the frequent plantings in the city’s gardens (and private flower boxes), and the lack of pesticides allow bee colonies to thrive—a hopeful sign when bees in the countryside are declining, threatening the pollination that is necessary for agriculture.

Bee hives in the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris, a way of discovering nature with urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The classic hives in the Luxembourg Gardens have been a part of the ecosystem since 1856.
© Meredith Mullins

Paris Past and Present Bee-Havior

Paris has a long history of beekeeping. The hives that are easily visible in the southwest corner of the Luxembourg Gardens were a part of a beekeeping project that began in 1856, followed by a beekeeping school that is still active today.

The more than 700 hives that now exist in Paris are usually somewhat hidden, to deter an errant bee swarm from attacking well-traveled tourist areas.

Bee hives on top of La Monnaie (the Paris Mint), discovering nature through urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

However, you might be surprised to find that there are hives at several well-known Paris landmarks (mostly on rooftops).

Musée d’Orsay
La Monnaie de Paris (the Paris Mint)
Opéra Garnier and Opéra Bastille
Invalides (move over Napoléon)
Grand Palais
Assemblée Nationale (the National Assembly)
École Militaire (the Military School)
Institut de France
Le Bon Marche/Grand Épicerie store
Gare Austerlitz train station
High-rise buildings in the La Defense business area in west Paris
The headquarters of the French Communist Party (pourquoi pas?)

Audric de Campeau on the roof of La Monnaie, discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image courtesy of Le Miel de Paris.)

An “office” in the sky
Photo Courtesy of Le Miel de Paris

Even hotels and restaurants are jumping on the beewagon. The Tour d’Argent restaurant, the Mandarin-Oriental, and The Westin Hotel (on rue de Rivoli) all have hives that provide an exclusive supply of honey to their chefs.

There is a beekeeper union (UNAF: Union Nationale de l’Apiculture Française), beekeeper associations, and a multitude of private hives with beekeepers of varying levels of expertise. A hive owner has only to acquire his or her materials, register the hive with the veterinary authority, and make sure the hive is 25 meters from a school or hospital.

Three jars of Paris honey, from the Musée d'Orsay, the Tour d'Argent, and Opera Garnier, discovering nature via urban beekeeping and Paris honey. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A Taste of Honey (Paris Honey: Le Miel de Paris)

So, how does an expert beekeeper make a mark in this new world of honey lovers?

Enter Audric de Campeau.

There are a few well-known beekeepers in Paris, but Audric is one of the most original. He eschews the traditional white beekeeper suit in favor of a stylish boater with a customized black net (and no gloves!).

Audric de Campeau works with bees on the roof of Boucheron near Place Vendome in Paris, discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Le Miel de Paris.)

No traditional beekeeper suit for Audric de Campeau, as he works with his bees near Place Vendôme
Photo courtesy of Le Miel de Paris

And he is always with his trusty canine assistant Filou (although Filou understands the meaning of bee-ware and often keeps his distance from the hives, having been stung a few times).

A sign in French saying beware of bees, part of a trend of discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Le Miel de Paris.)

Attention Abeilles (Bee-ware of Bees)
Photo Courtesy Le Miel de Paris

Audric knew, even as a teenager, that he was a farmer at heart. Nature was in his blood. He started growing grapes in the Champagne region at his family’s country home, and soon became captivated by the magic and mystery of bee colonies.

His passion convinced his parents to allow his experiments in apiculture, even though his father was allergic to bees.

Once Audric (and his bees) had become proficient at honey production, both his parents gently urged him to start selling his product. They said (diplomatically) that they could not keep up the pace of eating a kilo of honey a day.

Close up of bee hive, discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Le Miel de Paris.)

A happy hive
Photo Courtesy of Le Miel de Paris

Audric went in search of places in the city for new hives. His love of history and architecture led him to the Paris landmarks. And his understanding of nature informed smart location choices near gardens like the Tuileries, which he calls “a fully-stocked fridge” of diverse nectars and pollens that bees need.

Audric de Campeau at the Institut de France, discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A Hive with a View

While most of the Paris bees have an incredible vista, the majority of bees’ working life is spent in the windowless hive. It’s the beekeeper who gets to have “an office in the sky,” as Audric likes to call it.

When Audric removes the roof of a hive to check on things, he is swept into another world. “It’s like opening a universe,” he says.

Audric de Campeau of Le Miel de Paris checking bee hives at Invalides, a way of discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

You can tell by the way he senses what’s going on in the hive that he cares as much about the bees as he does about the honey they’re producing.

“It’s good for me,” he says. “You have to be calm and quiet when you’re working with a hive or the bees might kill you. It’s a good way to keep your stress level low.”

Audric de Campeau and Filou the dog at Invalides, discovering nature via urban beekeeping and the production of Paris honey. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Oh, I See: Respecting Nature in the City

Discovering the hidden treasures of a city is a part of travel magic. The presence of bee hives in Paris—hundreds of little universes—as well as the resulting Paris honey, is one such improbable discovery. Urban beekeeping is here to stay.

However, it is the ability to cultivate these hidden treasures and respect their place in nature that makes them even more precious. Thank you, Audric, for showing us the way.

If video does not display, watch it here.

Visit Le Miel de Paris to find out more about Paris honey. Also Le Miel de Paris Facebook and Twitter.

Visit La Monnaie de Paris for more information about The Paris Mint (now open to the public).

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Meredith Mullins Comments

France (Paris)/Nature Discovery

World Views:

Topics

Category Archives: France (Paris)

Memorable Moments: Favorite Paris Pop-Ins

A Paris Cultural Experience: Auctions by Candle

The Cat Café: A Purrfect Paris Place to Pause

Creative Inspiration in a Paris Bookstore

Angels of Paris

The Most Celestial of Cultural Symbols

Angels of Paris

The Angel and the Dove

The Working Angels of the Theatre de Châtelet

A Guardian of the Church of the Madeleine

Passing Time with the Angels

The Tallest Angel in Town?

A King of Archangels

Paris: A City of Light, Love . . . and Angels

Paris Honey: The Bees Knees

Urban Beekeeping Amid the Monuments

Paris Past and Present Bee-Havior

A Taste of Honey (Paris Honey: Le Miel de Paris)

A Hive with a View

Oh, I See: Respecting Nature in the City