Oh, I see! moments
Travel Cultures Language

When the Catch of the Day is a Cultural Experience

by Eva Boynton on June 13, 2016

The tail of a fish, symbolizing the fishing lessons that provided the writer an authentic cultural experience in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton)

The catch of the day
© Eva Boynton

Fishing Lessons to Share

Travel is a sea of opportunity, but often one in which people and places come and go in a kind of “catch and release” game. And yet, travelers who take the time to dive into local waters, engaging with people from within the culture, often go home with a rich sense of satisfaction, anchored in the authentic cultural experience.

I know. I learned about that during an “Oh, I see” moment in Mazunte, Mexico, when fishing lessons from Melchor, a local fisherman, turned into a bigger catch of the day.

The local fisherman, who gave us fishing lessons, walks down a trail to his favorite fishing spot near Mazunte, Mexico, the site of an authentic cultural experience that enhanced the writer's travel memories (image © Eva Boynton).

Melchor on his way to catch a fish
© Eva Boynton

Fishing for Local Knowledge

In Manzunte, my travel companion stumbled upon a group of local fisherman and struck up a conversation. Her show of interest and inquisitive mind were enough to land an invitation from Melchor to a day of casting the line ourselves.

“Hasta mañana!” we said, and the next day we were headed down a gorgeous trail to a rocky perch that overlooked the blue horizon of the sea.

A view from a cliff to a fishing spot by the ocean in Mazunte, Mexico, showing the site of fishing lessons that provided an authentic cultural experience for the writer. (image © Eva Boynton).

Local knowledge got us to this beautiful perch.
© Eva Boynton

We had arrived at Melchor’s local fishing spot, a place beyond any guide book, discovered through trial and error, tested and developed over time. The kind of place you get to only through “local knowledge.” Such places are windows to a culture’s customs and daily life, a gift to the traveler who reaches past the English-speaking tour guide.

Learning the Local Technique

Another gift of an authentic cultural experience is the insight that there are many ways to accomplish the same goal.

Take fishing, for example. Melchor and his family used a simple and effective technique. No fancy fishing pole. No net. Just a hook, bait, fishing line, and a cloth wrapped around the index finger and thumb for protection from the line.

Two people stringing fishing bait together, showing the fishing lessons learned from an authentic cultural experience in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton).

The first step? Ready the bait.
© Eva Boynton

Through this technique, tools are simplified, the mind more creative and focused on the practice.

A hand holding fishing bait on the end of a hook, demonstrating part of the fishing lessons learned during an authentic cultural experience while traveling in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton).

Hooked to cultural encounters
© Eva Boynton

With bait on the hook, the hook on the line, and the line wrapped around the fingers, Melchor and his family were ready to fish.

They swung the baited line around their heads, helicopter style. Then—one, two, three, swoop!—the line soared towards the sea.

Reeling the fishing line in has a specific form and precision as well. Both hands hold the line, one hand brings the line to the other, forming a swift and constant crossing motion. This technique reels in the line without getting it into a tangled mess.

Melchor and his family were experts.

 

A boy throwing a fishing line into the ocean, as he demonstrates part of fishing lessons learned during an authentic cultural experience in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton)

The pro at work
© Eva Boynton

Trying Our Hand

After watching from the shade of the rocks, it was time to apply our fishing lessons. We stepped into the sun and took a stab at fishing with the local technique.

After her fishing lessons, a girl throws a fishing line into the ocean, during an authentic cultural experience in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton).

My friends give it a go.
© Eva Boynton

Sure, it may sound simple—fishing with only a string and bait—but we soon hit the rocks, literally.

A local fisherman gives us fishing lessons as he demonstrates setting a fishing line free from the rocks and teaches the writer a lesson during an authentic cultural experience in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton).

Melchor works his magic to free
my line from the rocks.
© Eva Boynton

I threw my line into the sea. That went well.

When I felt my first mighty tug, I began pulling in my line haphazardly, using the local crossing-arm technique. I expected to pull out a sizable fish.

But the pull I felt was nothing more than my novice hands reeling too slowly and unsteadily, and the bait lodged in a crevice between two rocks. My catch of the day: a sizable boulder.

Fishing line, we also discovered, is one hundred times harder to untangle than a box of last year’s Christmas lights. With untrained hands, we often reeled the line into microscopic knots.

Melchor and his family patiently helped us out of trouble. We were no longer just travelers passing through. We were students gaining local knowledge from Melchor and his family, our teachers.

 

A boy untangling fishing line as he offers fishing lessons during an authentic cultural experience in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton).

Melchor’s brother offers his practiced, agile hands to untangle my knotted line.
© Eva Boynton

Catching More than a Fish

At the end of the long day of fishing, we triumphantly returned to our campsite with a 3-foot-long blue beauty. Melchor had caught the fish, the only one that day, and handed it over to us so we could experience the local cuisine.

The head of a fish caught during an authentic cultural experience in which local fishermen offered the writer fishing lessons in Mexico. (image © Eva Boynton)

Melchor’s generous gift was bigger than a big fish.
© Eva Boynton

On our small camp stove, we cooked fish tacos, thankful for the local flavors that had spiced up our dinner and our lives. We had learned the power of engaging and exchanging.

A pan of cooking fish, the result of some fishing lessons that were part of an authentic cultural experience in Mexico (image © Eva Boynton).

A tasty exchange
between cultures
© Eva Boynton

Our willingness to meet and learn had given us new friends, unexpected skills, insights, and a tasty meal. The cultural experience enriched our trip and deepened our connection with Mexico.

From their fishing lessons, Melchor and his family gained in the exchange, too. Sharing local knowledge is an empowering opportunity to teach others about your culture and daily life. And that’s no fish tale.

 

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Travel Adventures in Afghanistan

by Meredith Mullins on June 7, 2016

Kurdish family in Herat, Afghanistan, characters that provide travel stories and travel adventures. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

People play a key role in travel adventures of the memorable kind.
© Meredith Mullins

Memorable Moments Live On in Rekindled Travel Stories

Sometimes a journey is so memorable that you can relive every detail—every sensory impression—decades later. My travel adventures in Afghanistan were such a journey.

The powerfully felt “Oh, I see” moments are rooted deeply in my memory.

Cultural Heritage: Listening to Ireland

by Joyce McGreevy on June 1, 2016

Sunrise in Ireland, where an audio postcard might include a recording of birdsong. Image © Joyce McGreevy

While I’m sleepless in Chicago, dawn arrives in Ireland. I can almost hear the birdsong:
© Joyce McGreevy

Audio Postcards from Galway

Travel articles emphasize the visual: the view from the room, the lay of the land, the unique color palette of a place.

reland offers spectacular scenery, but to appreciate Irish cultural heritage, you also need to listen. © Joyce McGreevy

Ireland is visually dazzling, but to appreciate its cultural heritage, you also need to listen.
© Joyce McGreevy

Longing to Listen In

My favorite example of the visual is a webcam overlooking a pedestrianized street in Galway, Ireland. The view is so intimate that, as a former resident, I’ve recognized friends among the passersby.

One night, knowing it was daytime in Ireland, I logged on. An unapologetic voyeur, homesick for my other country, I wondered what folks would think if they knew they were being watched over by some sentimental Chicagoan in rumpled pajamas.

In Galway, Ireland the cultural heritage includes everyday sounds of the street. Image © Conall Stafford

A view of Quay Street, Galway, looking south.
© Conall Stafford

In Galway, Ireland listening is one way to appreciate cultural heritage. Image © Talleri Adkins McRae

Nearby Mainguard Street, looking north.
© Talleri Adkins McRae

But webcams are mute. I longed to hear the everyday sounds of Shop Street:

 

Children zigzagging around amblers, leaving whoops and laughter in their wake:

 

Kai Restaurant, Galway is a great place to appreciate Ireland's culinary innovation and cultural heritage. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Table talk in Galway gets a big assist from its organic, innovative cuisine.
© Joyce McGreevy

The indistinct murmurs of delight at Galway’s Kai Café and Restaurant:

 

 Galway's Corrib Riverbank is a gathering place for the conversations that are part of Ireland's cultural heritage. Image © Conall Stafford

Conversation at the Corrib, with O’Brien’s Bridge and the recently restored
medieval Bridge Mill buildings in the background.
© Conall Stafford

A River of Sounds

I recalled the rush and roar of the River Corrib, the eloquent plashing of salmon. And I remembered how the water whispered whenever a Galway swan would glide regally by.

The swans of Galway are a beloved element of Ireland's cultural heritage. Image © Conall Stafford

Among Galway’s majestic mute swans, you may see—or more precisely, hear—one
or two Icelandic whooper swans.
© Conall Stafford

I wanted to hear again Yeats’ magnificent, locally inspired poem, “The Wild Swans at Coole.” Here it is, read by actor Maelíosa Stafford of Galway’s world-renowned Druid Theatre.

Druid Theatre in Galway, Ireland is prime spot for appreciating Irish cultural heritage. Image © Talleri Adkins McRae

Founded in 1975, Druid Theatre helped make Galway one of the premier cultural centers in Ireland, and arguably, Europe.
© Talleri Adkins McRae

Places Have Voices

This got me thinking about ways we come to know places through our sense of hearing.

Oh, I see: Places have voices, and a country’s cultural heritage includes a symphony of its everyday sounds.

Some sounds are a given. Every day, as Aer Lingus  flights make landfall over Ireland, first-time visitors invariably exclaim three little words: “It’s so gree-ee-en!”

A Broad Spectrum of Voices

Other sounds may surprise you. Contrary to Lucky Charms stereotype, the Irish don’t all speak identically. An Irish ear would recognize highly differentiated speech reflective of the four provinces–Connacht, Munster, Ulster, Leinster—and often specific to a county, or even a neighborhood.

Hear the differences for yourself on a sound map, here.

Today’s Irish speech may also reflect one’s Brazilian, Filipino, Nigerian, Latvian, or other heritage. Galway’s population reflects more than 33 nationalities. As Irish President and Galway man Michael D. Higgins notes, “One of the great characteristics of Galway is that has been such a welcoming city–welcoming diversity and welcoming openness.”

 

Greetings from Galway Friends

I invited friends from Ireland to send audio postcards to OIC Moments:

Filmmaker Kamil Krolak sent a bouquet of audio for this article, including from Galway’s St. Patrick’s Day parade:

 

Ciana also triggered memories of gatherings where nobody stared at cell phones and everybody had stories to share. This tale of an ill-gotten typewriter, goes by faster than a Galway racehorse, but merits repeat listens:

 

The Wordsmith, an acclaimed novel by Patricia Forde, sets language at the center of Ireland's cultural heritage. Image © Patricia Forde

In 2016, Children’s Book Ireland honored The Wordsmith as a finalist for CBI Book of the Year.
© Patricia Forde

The Voice of a Wordsmith

Speaking of stories, here’s Galway author Patricia Forde reading the opening lines of her acclaimed novel, The Wordsmith. Set in the future, it’s a story in which language, like the planet, is under threat, and only love and expression can save them both.

 

 

Minor and Major Chords

Yes, the sounds of any community comprise both minor and major chords. Yet Galway’s tapestry of sounds reveals a community keenly aware of, and consciously shaping its changing cultural heritage.

I leave you with a song by The Saw Doctors. It’s courtesy of Ollie Jennings, manager of this world-touring, locally-formed rock band. The title,  “N17,”  refers to a road that leads home to Galway.

The road much traveled, and rightfully so.

Ireland's green fields and stone walls feature in the songs that art part of Irish cultural heritage. Image © Joyce McGreevy

“Yes, I wish I was on that N17
(Stone walls and the grasses green)
Traveling with just my thoughts and dreams.”
© The Saw Doctors; photo © Joyce McGreevy

 

On June 11, Kamil Krolak will film the world’s biggest performance of the iconic song “Galway Girl.” Join the global audience here.

Read about Druid Theatre’s world tour, here.

Meet Ciana Campbell, Patricia Forde, The Saw DoctorsBrendan Smith, and Maeliosa Stafford.

Revel in the Galway Arts Festival, July 11-24, here.

“The Wild Swans at Coole,” by William Butler Yeats, is in the public domain.

Oh, and that Galway webcam? Have a look, here

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