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A New Year’s Resolution for Notre Dame

by Meredith Mullins on January 13, 2020

Savoring the moment (two days before the heartbreaking Notre Dame fire).
© Meredith Mullins

Restoration of an Iconic Paris Cultural Symbol

Renew. Restore. Revitalize. Renovate. Refresh. Rejuvenate. Rebuild.

The new year invites certain words into our sphere of action, as we concentrate on new beginnings and life-changing resolutions.

This focus is particularly timely for the monumental restoration project of the fire-damaged Notre Dame Cathedral—a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and a historic cultural symbol for Paris, France, and the world. No matter what religion or spiritual beliefs are personally held, Notre Dame touches people’s souls.

Through rain and snow and gloom of night . . . Notre Dame has survived more than 850 years of challenges. There is hope for the future.
© Meredith Mullins

Living Near An Icon

I live a few minutes from this revered icon and pass it at least once a day. It has never—ever—been just part of the scenery. I always pause—to look. The “Oh, I see” moments are too many to count.

I am inspired by its grandeur—the articulated carvings, the ingenuity of the flying buttresses, and the reflections on the night-time Seine.

Reflections on the Seine
© Meredith Mullins

I marvel at the rose windows, beautiful from inside and out. I pay humble tribute to the wild and weird gargoyles and chimeras, keeping evil at bay. I am in sync with the melodies of the bells.

One of the guardian chimeras, protecting the cathedral against evil
© Meredith Mullins

Sadly, the view and the sounds have now changed dramatically.

This most visited monument in Europe was devoured by fire on April 15, 2019, as Parisians and the world watched in horror.

The devastating fire of April 15, 2019
© Mervyn Rothstein

First, there were plumes of smoke. Then, skyward flames as the medieval dry oak beams, called “the forest,” ignited like kindling. And when the classic spire wobbled and then crashed into the nave below, there was universal heartbreak.

The pompiers (firefighters) were fearless in controlling the spread of the fire, a task that at times seemed hopeless, but in the end saved the rose windows, the grand organ, and the tower bells.

Firefighters battled the blaze through the night.
© Mervyn Rothstein

The first responders and city and church officials were also quick  in their rescue of art objects and priceless treasures, such as the Crown of Thorns and the 13th century tunic worn by St Louis (Louis IX, King of France).

Now, nine months later, a renaissance is in progress. French President Macron vowed immediately after the fire, “We will rebuild.” And, almost as quickly, donations totalling more than $1 billion came pouring in, from more than 350,000 donors—French billionaires as well as people from around the world who made small contributions, just wanting to help.

Progress on the restoration
© Meredith Mullins

Macron committed to a restoration timetable of five years that some believe was too ambitious given Notre Dame’s history.

After all, its initial construction took nearly 200 years, and it has undergone various complex multi-year renovations since its origin, including a massive restoration of the western façade and the addition of the (now toppled) lead and wood spire in the mid-1800s by the 30-something architect Viollet-le-Duc and his work partner Lassus.

The debate continues about how the replacement for Viollet-le-Duc’s 1850s
spire should be designed.
© Meredith Mullins

What Can We See?

As you walk around the cathedral now, you can still feel its mass and magnitude, as well as its fragility. The church is blocked by fences and barricades. Several cranes rise high in the sky.

There is exterior work that shows some of the steps that have been taken. However, most of the activity is hidden from view.

New scaffolding and netting reinforce the structural weaknesses
and prevent damage by falling limestone.
© Meredith Mullins

Inside, robots work tirelessly to clean debris from the center of the cathedral. The structure is too fragile and dangerous for human movement.

The debris is moved to the tents set up in the courtyard in front of Notre Dame where each piece is catalogued by scientists before it is transferred to laboratories for further analysis of the materials.

A break in the barricade allows for photos of the western facade.
© Meredith Mullins

Critical Next Steps

The work to date has been careful and well-researched. Progress has been made in the cleaning process (especially addressing the lead contamination that occurred in and around the cathedral).

The rose windows will be cleaned and restored to their original positions.
© Meredith Mullins

Efforts have also focused on the removal of items for restoration (such as the windows and statues), the cataloguing and analysis of materials, the reinforcement of parts of the exterior structure (such as the flying buttresses), and the preparation for work in the coming months that will analyze the strength of the remaining structure.

The flying buttresses and Apse area of the cathedral have been reinforced.
© Meredith Mullins

The most critical step is the removal of the metal scaffolding that surrounded the spire at the time of the fire. (A spire restoration project was in process.)

This now-tangled, melted mass must be removed piece by piece, without jeopardizing the incredibly fragile underlying structure. This phase will begin early in 2020.

The critical next step is to remove the damaged central scaffolding
that surrounded the now fallen spire.
© Meredith Mullins

Once the scaffolding is removed, workers will be able to access the stone vaulted ceilings to complete the full diagnosis of the structural integrity and plan the next steps of restoration.

Should Notre Dame be rebuilt exactly as it was . . . or should it be “reimagined”
with a more contemporary look?
© Meredith Mullins

Looking To the Future

How will the restored and revitalized Notre Dame look? The debate lingers. Should it be rebuilt just as it was, or should a contemporary innovation be added, using modern materials and building techniques? Should the roof and spire be reconstructed . . . or reimagined?

The politics have yet to be sorted out, with legislation differing between the Senate and the National Assembly.

In the interim, architectural firms and designers are submitting ideas, from a rooftop swimming pool, to a stained glass roof and spire, to a greenhouse sanctuary, to an all-crystal approach.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxfjNfhBEpM/?hl=en

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxfTQrrAjcP/

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

Some architects have proposed a spire that is similar to the Senate’s desire to maintain the look of “its last known visual state” but have been creative in their suggestion of materials (stained glass, recycled ocean plastic, copper, stainless steel, or crystal).

If video does not display, watch it here.

The French Prime Minister proposed an architectural competition shortly after the fire, but this idea may be over-ruled by legislation.

However, one unofficial competition, organized by GoArchitect, has been completed, with an elegant design by two Chinese architects. The design features a mirrored roof and spire that reflect the surroundings in a kaleidoscopic effect.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0r2QZhIwk0/?hl=en

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

Whatever the outcome of the politics and of the project administration by a general, an architect, and an archbishop, who, no doubt, will sometimes have differing views, the restored Notre Dame Cathedral will be a confirmation of history’s will to survive and will be a tribute to the preservation of the past integrated with a vision of the future.

A cultural symbol of the past, present, and future
© Meredith Mullins

Hopefully, this iconic Paris cultural symbol will continue to inspire the admiration of the world and to elicit poetic descriptions like that of Victor Hugo—“Notre Dame—a symphony in stone.”

Tributes to Notre Dame Cathedral in many forms
© Meredith Mullins

Thank you to the city of Paris and Patrick Zachmann of Magnum Photos for the exhibit presented on the north side of the cathedral.

Instagrams courtesy of The Guardian and Go Architect.

Additional resources from Smithsonian Magazine and Global Times.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Travel Hacks for 2020

by Joyce McGreevy on January 6, 2020

A mountain climber taking in the view from a peak reminds the author that 20/20 hindsight can actually be a valuable travel hack. (Public domain image by Skeeze/Pixabay)

Seen in hindsight, a travel challenge may prove to be a peak experience.
Image by Skeeze/Pixabay

Take a Fresh Look at 20/20 Hindsight

What’s your travel vision for 2020? Now that we’ve journeyed to a new decade, it’s tempting to focus forward. But don’t overlook the vision that’s always 20/20—hindsight.

Hindsight has a bad rep. No critic ever praised anyone for being “hindsightful.” If hindsight were a character, she’d be the younger sibling of over-achievers. As in, “Why can’t you be like your brother Foresight, always thinking ahead? Or your sister Insight, who brings home one A+ after another?”

Hindsight also gets characterized as Woulda, Shoulda, and Coulda—that terrible trio who show up too late to offer assistance, then stand around shaming us for mishaps we cannot undo.  Yet hindsight can help us debrief, and more.

Focus backward for a moment, and you’ll see how hindsight can be a travel hack.

A purse left behind on a dirt road exemplifies the travel mishaps that trigger 20/20 hindsight yet also inspire travel hacks. (Public domain image by Needpix)

In travel as in life, experience has a cost. Hindsight’s wisdom may not come cheap.
Image by Needpix

Travel Hack 1: See Hindsight as Signpost, not Setback.

In travel, mishaps abound: The wrong train. The faux pas. The theft or scam. The analog camera dropped into the scenic waterfall.

But hindsight, positioned farther along in the journey, knows something we don’t. Maybe the “wrong” train averts the strike that stalls the “right” train. Perhaps the faux pas breaks the ice, turning strangers into friends. The sting of dishonesty is salved by gratitude for countless times when honesty saved the day.

And the camera? Sometimes you must wait to see what develops.

Oh, I see: While clarity may not be “instamatic,” there’s much more to hindsight than meets the eye.

Travel Hack 2: Use Hindsight to Learn a Language.

A sand sculpture of people borne aloft by balloons that resemble brains symbolizes the brain’s power to use hindsight to boost our ability to learn a language. (Public domain image by FotoEmotions/Pixabay)

The brain uses hindsight to improve language learning, better preparing us to travel.
Image by FotoEmotions/Pixabay

Hindsight is a surprisingly efficient teacher, good news for travelers who want to learn a second language. Numerous scientific studies show that a mechanism in the brain reacts in just 0.1 seconds to things that have resulted in us making errors in the past.

Errors like using inviter in French the same way “invite” is often used in the U.S. In France, you “invite” someone to dinner only if you are planning to pay.

Making mistakes in the language classroom may occasion chagrin, but the hindsight factor compensates by helping us avoid errors in the future—and in Michelin-starred restaurants.

Travel Hack 3: Read a Great Travel Memoir.

If only I’d known, we travelers fret, I would have done things differently. Yet it isn’t “things” we mean, but only that one little thing—the single, precipitating misstep or omission—which we then fixate on to the exclusion of everything that enriched our experience beforehand.

For some, that’s all hindsight is, a useless obsession, and many dictionaries support this negative reduction. I prefer Merriam-Webster’s more contemplative wording: “the perception of the nature of an event after it has happened.”

To discover how unflinching and invaluable hindsight can be, treat yourself to Fifty-Fifty: The Clarity of Hindsight (Strategic Book Publishing), my favorite travel memoir of 2019. The author, “Vagabond Lawyer” Julie L. Kessler, has traveled to 107 countries and counting.

Julie L. Kessler, travel ninja and “Vagabond Lawyer”, is the author of the travel memoir Fifty-Fifty: The Clarity of Hindsight and writes “The Traveling Life,” a popular column for the San Francisco Examiner. (Image © Julie L. Kessler)

You probably already know Kessler’s popular column, “The Traveling Life” in The San Francisco Examiner (#SFExaminer).
© Julie L. Kessler

In Fifty-Fifty, a must-read collection of 50 essays, Kessler beautifully demonstrates that hindsight is a many-faceted thing. Yes, it can be painful, but it can also be hilarious, practical, and empathetic.

The book cover for Fifty-Fifty: The Clarity of Hindsight, a travel memoir by Julie L.Kessler, a.k.a., “Vagabond Lawyer,” depicts a travel ninja who travels the globe.

Kessler’s travel memoir won accolades at the London, New York, and Paris Book Festivals. © Julie L. Kessler

In Kessler’s compelling prose, travel hindsight becomes profound, illuminating in ways that go beyond mere “20/20” corrective.

In one unforgettable chapter, the very act of misplacing a passport ushers Kessler into a whole new world of insight.  As she notes:

“Every single destination, even if unintended, holds the chance of something miraculous.”

I don’t want to spoil the revelatory moment that results—after nightfall, in the middle of nowhere, raw with grief and stranded among strangers—but the way Kessler finds the miracle within the mishap proves that sometimes nothing less than the rich context of hindsight can guide us onward.

Travel Hack 4: See the Future of Traveling to the Past.

Could time travel obviate hindsight altogether? According to unidentified sources at The Time Travel Mart, “We’ve been here since the beginning of time so no matter the era, we have just the thing to help you through your travels. Whenever you are, we’re already then.”

A signboard reading “The Mar Vista Time Travel Mart” hints that time travel ninjas have the ultimate hack for turning 20/20 hindsight into a perfect past experience. (Photo © and courtesy of 826LA)

Made a mistake on life’s journey? Time travel offers a (re)vision of a perfect past.
Photo courtesy of 826LA

Wait—The Time Travel Mart?

This online store, which also has two brick-and-mortar locations in Los Angeles, sells what every time-travel ninja needs—a Pastport, (essential for entry to Pangaea),  time travel tickets, a Time Scouts Handbook, and a Victorian iPad that allows you to write your thoughts and then share them “with everyone who passes by.”

A “Pastport” for the armchair travel ninja is a popular item at The Time Travel Mart, a Los Angeles based online store that supports the free literacy programs of 826LA. (Photo © and courtesy of 826LA)

Don’t delay! Get your Pastport . . . yesterday!
Photo courtesy of 826LA

Will these products really blast you into the past? Only time will tell.  But they bode well for young people traveling into the future.

That’s because all proceeds help support free literacy programs at 826LA. If your 2020 travels are of the armchair variety, this travel hack’s for you. Visit The Time Travel Mart and help launch a young person’s journey of discovery into a bright future.

The Future of Hindsight

From my current perspective, I don’t know how 2020’s travels will lead to 20/20 hindsight. But thanks to travel hacks like activating the brain’s linguistic hindsight, following Kessler’s travels, and becoming a time-travel ninja, I’m unafraid to find out.

What has 20/20 hindsight revealed to you about past travels? How might this inform your travels in 2020?

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Holiday Wanderlust in Leipzig!

by Joyce McGreevy on December 16, 2019

People at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, the annual Christmas market in Leipzig, celebrate centuries-old German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The Christmas Market has been a tradition in Leipzig for 600 years.
© Joyce McGreevy

Winter is Wunderbar at Germany’s Christmas Markets

It’s an ink-dark December morning as my sister and I board the train in Berlin. Yet our hearts are light, warmed by the promise of discovery.  Winter wanderlust leads us to Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt one of Germany’s oldest, biggest, and most beautiful Christmas markets!

Now popular around the world, the European tradition of the December market wasn’t always so charming. In the early Middle Ages, it was merely the last chance to stock up on supplies before hunkering down for a long, miserable winter. Visions of survival, not sugar plums, danced through one’s head in those days.

In the 1400s, markets took a festive turn. Carved wooden toys, gingerbread, and other treats began appearing among the sacks of grain and racks of farming tools.

A vendor’s stall selling pine wreaths and boughs at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, the annual Christmas market in Leipzig, reflects one of Germany’s Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Baby, take a bough! The tradition of Christmas wreaths began in Germany.
© Joyce McGreevy

Martin’s Market Effect

Intentionally or not, Martin Luther also gave Germany’s Christmas markets a boost.

According to historian Erika Kohler, the 16th-century church reformer’s “rejection of the veneration of saints . . . supplanted Saint Nicholas as the giver of gifts.” As a result, the most favored day for gift-giving shifted from December 6 to Christmas Eve.

A statue of Martin Luther at a Christmas market in Berlin, Germany reminds the viewer of the church reformer’s role in shaping German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Martin Luther overlooks a Christmas Market near Berlin’s oldest church (1200s)
and the iconic TV Tower (1969).
© Joyce McGreevy

Today, Germany is home to several hundred Christmas markets—Berlin alone has more than 70. Whether you travel west to Cologne, east to Dresden, south to Munich, or points between, you’ll find a market to suit your mood.

A City of Peace and Celebration

For Carolyn and me, that’s Leipzig—the city renowned for classical music, creativity, and the beauty of its Gothic architecture.

A prosperous commercial center, Leipzig revealed even greater worth when, in October 1989, it hosted the largest peaceful protest in East Germany. Historians consider the “Peaceful Revolution” a key  factor in accelerating the Fall of the Berlin Wall.

What to Our Wondering Eyes Did Appear

Half a century later, my sister and I exit the largest terminal railway station in Europe and marvel at what we see:  the entire city center has been transformed into a winter wonderland.

Crowds at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt reflect the wanderlust that draws people from all over the world to Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Christmas markets are made for strolling, not hunting for a parking place.
Most Germans arrive by train or tram.
© Joyce McGreevy

Oh, I see: This must be how Dorothy felt when the doors of the Emerald City swung open. In Leipzig, the Weihnachtsmarkt is a world immersed in magic.

A beautifully decorated vendor’s stall filled with artisan crafts invites shoppers to take a closer look at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, one of Germany’s Christmas oldest Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Decorated stalls and goods for all budgets lure shoppers in Leipzig.
© Joyce McGreevy

Wooden holiday huts line every avenue and lane, each hut ornately decorated and laden with artisan goods. Forests of twinkling fir trees sprout from their rooftops. Carousel horses circle, crowds on foot flow by, and a Ferris wheel revolves above gilded spires.

A Ferris wheel’s view of the Christmas market crowds in Leipzig, Germany shows why wanderlust draws people from all over the world to celebrate this popular German Christmas tradition. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Ride the Ferris wheel to see how the holiday bustle takes over the streets of Leipzig.
© Joyce McGreevy

The air is redolent with berry-red glühwein (mulled wine), savory bratwürst, and caramelized sugar. Music fills the air, too—a busker acing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons on accordion; carolers at the Old Town Hall; and trumpeters outside Thomaskirche, the church where Johann Sebastian Bach was choirmaster.

A statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in the moonlight outside Thomaskirche in Leipzig inspires wanderlust to explore more of Germany’s holiday traditions, including Bach’s Christmas cantatas. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Leipzig, Bach wrote choral cantatas at the rate of one a week.
Listen to a seasonal example, here.
© Joyce McGreevy

How German Christmas Traditions Crossed Cultures

Yuletide revelry has been a Leipzig tradition since 1458. Americans, by contrast, did little to “mark the day,” let alone the season, until the 1800s. Then two German immigrants changed everything. Thomas Nast is the better known, the illustrator whose images of Santa Claus became iconic.

Less known is Karl “Charles” Follen, a German refugee, Harvard professor, and abolitionist. In the 1830s, readers of a popular American magazine learned that each December Charles and his wife Eliza surprised guests with something extraordinary: a Christmas tree:

The tree was set in a tub and its branches hung with small dolls, gilded eggshells, and paper cornucopias filled with candied fruit. The tree was illuminated with numerous candles.

A Christmas tree in a red-carpeted, ornate passageway in Leipzig, Germany reflects one of the German Christmas traditions that inspire wanderlust for holiday travel. Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Leipzig’s network of courtyard passages and arcades dates back over 500 years.
© Joyce McGreevy

The spell was cast.  Americans began adopting German Christmas traditions as their own, including glass ornaments, wooden nutcrackers, and  . . .

An Advent wreath set against the beautiful architecture of Leipzig, Germany reflects a German Christmas tradition and inspires wanderlust for holiday travel. Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Advent wreaths and Advent calendars. In Germany, most families make their own.
© Joyce McGreevy

A giant Christmas pyramid, or Weihnachtspyramide, set against the beautiful architecture of Leipzig, Germany reflects a German Christmas tradition and inspires wanderlust for holiday travel. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Christmas pyramids. (A rotor at the top is driven by warm air from lit candles.)
© Joyce McGreevy

A travel mascot with a kinderpunsch mug and crowds enjoying gluhwein in Leipzig reflect the Germany Christmas traditions that inspire wanderlust to visit Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Glühwein (mulled wine) and alcohol-free kinderpunsch. Pay a small pfand (deposit)
for  the option of returning the mug or keeping a holiday souvenir.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Right Pickle

One “German” tradition may not be German at all: the Christmas pickle.

Thanks to demand among tourists, you’ll find this ornament at KaDaWe, Berlin’s massive department store. But mention the Weihnachtsgurke to most Germans and they’ll wonder what-the-dill you’re talking about.

Happily, the murky gherkin myth is our only jarring experience. In Germany’s holiday markets, food is so tasty that even our inability to pronounce certain dishes cannot stop us from trying them. My sister and I sample whatever we see—then walk 6-8 miles a day to keep it from becoming permanent souvenirs.

Waffles with vanilla cream and Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts) are popular traditional holiday foods in Leipzig, a destination that inspires wanderlust to explore Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Waffles with vanilla cream are a Leipzig specialty; Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts)
are popular throughout Germany. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Holiday Travel Tips

Ready to plan some Weihnachtsmarkt travel of your own? Most Christmas markets run from late November to January 5.

The Hotel Fürstenhof Leipzig is the perfect setting for a traveler with winter wanderlust, close to one of Germany’s most traditional Christmas markets, the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Built in the 1770s, Leipzig’s Hotel Fürstenhof is the perfect place
to review your Christmas market itinerary.
© Joyce McGreevy

Pack light to save half your suitcase for holiday gifts. To stay warm without bulk, wear packable down, thermals, and stick to Berlin’s favorite fashion tone: black. Then savor the color at Germany’s Christmas markets.

Happy Wanderlust to all, and to all holiday travelers, a good flight!

A man dressed as Father Christmas, spotted among pedestrians in Leipzig, Germany reflects the fun and whimsy of German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

It’s beginning to look a lot like . . .!
© Joyce McGreevy

See video of the Leipziger Weihnactsmarkt here.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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