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Travel Cultures Language

Cultural Heritage: Listening to Ireland

by Joyce McGreevy on June 1, 2016

Sunrise in Ireland, where an audio postcard might include a recording of birdsong. Image © Joyce McGreevy

While I’m sleepless in Chicago, dawn arrives in Ireland. I can almost hear the birdsong:
© Joyce McGreevy

Audio Postcards from Galway

Travel articles emphasize the visual: the view from the room, the lay of the land, the unique color palette of a place.

reland offers spectacular scenery, but to appreciate Irish cultural heritage, you also need to listen. © Joyce McGreevy

Ireland is visually dazzling, but to appreciate its cultural heritage, you also need to listen.
© Joyce McGreevy

Longing to Listen In

My favorite example of the visual is a webcam overlooking a pedestrianized street in Galway, Ireland. The view is so intimate that, as a former resident, I’ve recognized friends among the passersby.

One night, knowing it was daytime in Ireland, I logged on. An unapologetic voyeur, homesick for my other country, I wondered what folks would think if they knew they were being watched over by some sentimental Chicagoan in rumpled pajamas.

In Galway, Ireland the cultural heritage includes everyday sounds of the street. Image © Conall Stafford

A view of Quay Street, Galway, looking south.
© Conall Stafford

In Galway, Ireland listening is one way to appreciate cultural heritage. Image © Talleri Adkins McRae

Nearby Mainguard Street, looking north.
© Talleri Adkins McRae

But webcams are mute. I longed to hear the everyday sounds of Shop Street:

 

Children zigzagging around amblers, leaving whoops and laughter in their wake:

 

Kai Restaurant, Galway is a great place to appreciate Ireland's culinary innovation and cultural heritage. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Table talk in Galway gets a big assist from its organic, innovative cuisine.
© Joyce McGreevy

The indistinct murmurs of delight at Galway’s Kai Café and Restaurant:

 

 Galway's Corrib Riverbank is a gathering place for the conversations that are part of Ireland's cultural heritage. Image © Conall Stafford

Conversation at the Corrib, with O’Brien’s Bridge and the recently restored
medieval Bridge Mill buildings in the background.
© Conall Stafford

A River of Sounds

I recalled the rush and roar of the River Corrib, the eloquent plashing of salmon. And I remembered how the water whispered whenever a Galway swan would glide regally by.

The swans of Galway are a beloved element of Ireland's cultural heritage. Image © Conall Stafford

Among Galway’s majestic mute swans, you may see—or more precisely, hear—one
or two Icelandic whooper swans.
© Conall Stafford

I wanted to hear again Yeats’ magnificent, locally inspired poem, “The Wild Swans at Coole.” Here it is, read by actor Maelíosa Stafford of Galway’s world-renowned Druid Theatre.

Druid Theatre in Galway, Ireland is prime spot for appreciating Irish cultural heritage. Image © Talleri Adkins McRae

Founded in 1975, Druid Theatre helped make Galway one of the premier cultural centers in Ireland, and arguably, Europe.
© Talleri Adkins McRae

Places Have Voices

This got me thinking about ways we come to know places through our sense of hearing.

Oh, I see: Places have voices, and a country’s cultural heritage includes a symphony of its everyday sounds.

Some sounds are a given. Every day, as Aer Lingus  flights make landfall over Ireland, first-time visitors invariably exclaim three little words: “It’s so gree-ee-en!”

A Broad Spectrum of Voices

Other sounds may surprise you. Contrary to Lucky Charms stereotype, the Irish don’t all speak identically. An Irish ear would recognize highly differentiated speech reflective of the four provinces–Connacht, Munster, Ulster, Leinster—and often specific to a county, or even a neighborhood.

Hear the differences for yourself on a sound map, here.

Today’s Irish speech may also reflect one’s Brazilian, Filipino, Nigerian, Latvian, or other heritage. Galway’s population reflects more than 33 nationalities. As Irish President and Galway man Michael D. Higgins notes, “One of the great characteristics of Galway is that has been such a welcoming city–welcoming diversity and welcoming openness.”

 

Greetings from Galway Friends

I invited friends from Ireland to send audio postcards to OIC Moments:

Filmmaker Kamil Krolak sent a bouquet of audio for this article, including from Galway’s St. Patrick’s Day parade:

 

Ciana also triggered memories of gatherings where nobody stared at cell phones and everybody had stories to share. This tale of an ill-gotten typewriter, goes by faster than a Galway racehorse, but merits repeat listens:

 

The Wordsmith, an acclaimed novel by Patricia Forde, sets language at the center of Ireland's cultural heritage. Image © Patricia Forde

In 2016, Children’s Book Ireland honored The Wordsmith as a finalist for CBI Book of the Year.
© Patricia Forde

The Voice of a Wordsmith

Speaking of stories, here’s Galway author Patricia Forde reading the opening lines of her acclaimed novel, The Wordsmith. Set in the future, it’s a story in which language, like the planet, is under threat, and only love and expression can save them both.

 

 

Minor and Major Chords

Yes, the sounds of any community comprise both minor and major chords. Yet Galway’s tapestry of sounds reveals a community keenly aware of, and consciously shaping its changing cultural heritage.

I leave you with a song by The Saw Doctors. It’s courtesy of Ollie Jennings, manager of this world-touring, locally-formed rock band. The title,  “N17,”  refers to a road that leads home to Galway.

The road much traveled, and rightfully so.

Ireland's green fields and stone walls feature in the songs that art part of Irish cultural heritage. Image © Joyce McGreevy

“Yes, I wish I was on that N17
(Stone walls and the grasses green)
Traveling with just my thoughts and dreams.”
© The Saw Doctors; photo © Joyce McGreevy

 

On June 11, Kamil Krolak will film the world’s biggest performance of the iconic song “Galway Girl.” Join the global audience here.

Read about Druid Theatre’s world tour, here.

Meet Ciana Campbell, Patricia Forde, The Saw DoctorsBrendan Smith, and Maeliosa Stafford.

Revel in the Galway Arts Festival, July 11-24, here.

“The Wild Swans at Coole,” by William Butler Yeats, is in the public domain.

Oh, and that Galway webcam? Have a look, here

Travel Stories: Good Thing We Took the Wrong Train

by Joyce McGreevy on April 26, 2016

A view from a flight departing Boston might feature in travel stories about travel mishaps that turn out just fine. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Travel isn’t all plain sailing, but a little luck can help you wing it.
© Joyce McGreevy

Travel Mishaps, Mosaics, and Memories

If two trains travel toward the same station at different times . . . Remember those math questions from school? Call them my least favorite travel stories.

I recall Mrs. Newton asking our fourth grade class to brainstorm solutions. As the collective desperation mounted, I burst out with “Agh! Stop the trains!”

Okay, so not a mathematician.

Yet those equations proved instructive. As emblems of bewilderment in motion, they offered a preview of real-life travel problems.

Making Tracks, Italian Style

Like the time my son and I transferred to the wrong train. We were traveling “home” to Florence from Ravenna, once capital of the Western Roman Empire. The glittering tesserae of Byzantine mosaics had seemed illumined from within. My perusal of Italian rail maps proved far less enlightening.

Mosaics in Ravenna, Italy, like this one of Empress Theodora, are a highlight of many travel stories.

In Ravenna, Italy, Empress Theodora is immortalized
in mosaic. Travel memories are mosaics, too.
Photo by Meister von San Vitale in Ravenna [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Oh, I understood when the conductor told us to transfer at the next station. Trouble is, we had different ideas of what constituted “next.”

This I discovered as, breathless from managing the tight connection, we noticed one tiny glitch: We were moving in the wrong direction.

A train passenger catching the wrong train is a subject of many travel stories.

Ah, that splendid travel moment, right before you realize you took the wrong train.
Train Passenger photo by Unsplash is licensed under CC0 1.0.

No problem. We’d get off at the next stop, sort things out at the ticket booth, and catch the next train to Florence. Meanwhile, we’d explore what was sure to be a charming little town.

Two hours and no discernible charm or ticket booth later, we boarded another train. But when I told our predicament to the conductor, he practically congratulated us on our mistake.

Home By Another Way

The ruins of the Roman forum feature in many travel stories, from travel mishaps to magic. Image @ Ceren Abi

Just because a Roman holiday goes wrong, does that mean it’s in ruins?
© Ceren Abi

Turns out the train we should have caught had just been sidelined by a strike. Factor in that, ye mighty writers of the “two trains” pop quiz.

Had we done everything correctly, the conductor explained—his tone conveying the folly of such behavior—it would have been midnight before we reached our destination.

He seated us beside a personable woman who turned out to be an expert on Italian art history, including Ravenna’s mosaics. It was a delightful journey.

“Good thing we took the wrong train!” my son said, a line that has entered family lore. It’s an expression we use when things that go wrong somehow lead to a positive outcome.

Which in travel, they do with surprising regularity. Oh, I see: Sometimes travel mishaps lead to great travel memories.

Confusing road signs, like this one in Italy, feature in many travel stories of travel mishaps.

“Excuse me, could you give us directions to the road less traveled?”
Road sign in Ischia Porto by Zoagli is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0.

Mysteries, Great and Small

Like that time in Brittany . . . We’d been pondering the megalithic mysteries of Carnac, France, site of 3,000 standing stones. Then we encountered another mystery. Someone had broken into our rental car and stolen a backpack.

The standing stones of Carnac, France feature in many travel stories, from travel mishaps to magic. Image © Arie Mastenbroek/Thinkstock

The menhir, or ancient standing stones of Carnac, France were erected by pre-Celtic peoples.
© Arie Mastenbroek/Thinkstock

Nothing elevates the sentimental value of objects like their loss. We headed to a police station. For a ten-year-old boy who read The Adventures of Tintin, this was welcome diversion.

Hearing our American accents, the gendarme playfully asked if we knew Clint Eastwood.

Did I mention that we’d lived in Carmel when Eastwood was mayor?

Surely the gendarme would still have offered us refreshments, courtesy, and a tour of the station had we lived in Duluth.

In any event, a travel mishap became a congenial field trip. The day’s experiences–the sublime, the snafu, and the serendipitous–combined like a mosaic to create a positive travel memory.

April-Fools-at-Large

A sign for a found parakeet in Evanston, IL might feature in travel stories of travel mishaps. Image © Joyce McGreevy

Even frequent flyers can be unclear on the best mode of transportation.
© Joyce McGreevy

On April Fools’ Day, we returned to the town.

The backpack and its contents, having failed to meet our thief’s aesthetic standards, had been dumped in a phone booth.

We were directed to the town hall basement, where a lone employee seemed glad of company.

After signing for the backpack, we chatted about Poisson d’Avril, as April 1 is called in France. We’d known that pranksters celebrated the day by sticking paper fish on the backs of the unsuspecting.

But the part about enjoying fish-shaped pastries and candies was new information. Monsieur Le Sous-Sol sent us home with a veritable school of foil-wrapped chocolate sardines.

Traveling at a Snail’s Pace

A view of Liscannor, Ireland shows why getting lost can lead to great travel stories. Image © Joyce McGreevy

If you plan to get lost, the West of Ireland is the ideal setting.
© Joyce McGreevy

My friend Jules once got lost while driving in Ireland. That’s easily done, as Ireland is somehow bigger on the inside than it appears on the outside.

As the road got narrower, its surface thinner, she ended up at a lakeshore. Light played on the ripples of the water.

Then she heard rustling in the foliage.

What had broken the silence? Nothing more than a snail moving along lush, green leaves. If that isn’t the measure of a peaceful setting, what is?

Hello, said Jules, admiring the spirals on the snail’s shell. I’ve come a long, long way to meet you. Some travelers, even when lost, are always where they need to be. For them, “wrong” turns, discovery, and appreciation form one rich mosaic. Now how about you? When have travel mishaps led to your favorite travel stories?

Something as small as a snail can feature in travel stories of getting lost and finding beauty.

Memorable travel sights aren’t always
the most monumental.
Jon Sullivan [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Listen to hilarious tweets about travel mishaps from comedian Jimmy Fallon here.

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