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Ireland for the Virtual Traveler

by Joyce McGreevy on March 30, 2020

Two Irish terriers by the sea and virtual visitors from across the miles help a writer in Ireland stay connected during a time of necessary social distancing and self-isolation. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Dog days at the edge of Ireland.
© Joyce McGreevy

Staying Connected Across the Miles

It’s springtime, the sun has come out of hiding, and I want you to come visit. Oh, I know—these days, you can only be a virtual visitor. But now, more than ever, we need to stay connected across the miles.

Take a moment to imagine: Put on your favorite old sweater, the one with a hole in the elbow. Lace up your mud-spattered walking shoes. Pack only your five senses.

Oh, for good measure, toss in your sense of delight. Because we’re off to explore one of Ireland’s most beautiful places. Along the way, I’ve a story to tell you.

To reach Ballyshane, drive south, passing smaller and smaller towns, until you come to a certain crossroads. Yes, that one. Now, thread along ever-narrowing roads, knowing the coast of East County Cork awaits you.

A pond in Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland is accessible to all virtual travelers as technology helps people stay connected across the miles during a time of necessary social distancing and self-isolation. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

A place for reflection at Ballyshane.
© Joyce McGreevy

Have the hedgerows begun thrumming with birds? Then you’re nearly there. Watch for breaks in the wild shrubbery that glimmer with hints of the sea. At last, you see old stone gates, the color of ripening apricots.

Down the long drive you go. You’re here.

You’re actually only 30 minutes from a city. But Ballyshane is a world all its own.

Which reminds me, I promised you a story.

I was already in isolation when it happened. Not that anyone called it “self-isolating” Back Then. I’d simply returned to Ireland, a place that’s long felt like home, to house-sit for a man who was traveling.

Given the remote location, it meant “social distancing.” Not that anyone called it that Back Then.

Walks with an Irish terrier in the woods and the company of virtual visitors from across the miles help a traveler self-isolating in Ireland stay connected during a time of necessary social distancing. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

A walk feels liberating now.
© Joyce McGreevy

But who could be lonely? I had the companionship of two Irish terriers, and the land, with its 1800s country house, was companionable in its beauty. Beyond the main house  were secluded cottages, among the most popular on Airbnb. Yet I’d been generously granted one all to myself.

A cottage in Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland welcomes virtual visitors as people stay connected across the miles during a time of social distancing, self-isolation, and virtual travel. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Stone cottage, soft sky.
© Joyce McGreevy

In between the homeowner’s travels, there were elegant yet informal gatherings. Touched to be invited, I met new friends. Because this is Ireland, some of the new friends knew some of my old friends. Even if they hadn’t, I’d never have felt lonely. Because in Ireland, conversation is something one savors along with its now-celebrated cuisine.

Rain clouds over Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland, foreshadow a time when social distancing and self-isolation will become the norm, and virtual travelers will go online to stay connected across the miles. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Storm clouds gather over Ireland.
© Joyce McGreevy

Then it happened.

The “wave” made its way across Europe, and life in Ireland changed utterly. When even the churches closed down, the gravity of the situation sank in.

Suddenly, people around the world were hurrying home or sheltering in place.  Word went out: Wherever you happen to be, stay there. Stay safe, don’t travel.

That year, I’d been all over the map. Three months in Italy. Rambles around world cities. Long days in airports, nights in airport hotels.  When Earth’s globe suddenly stopped spinning, the roulette wheel of my continuous travels could have landed me anywhere.

To my gratitude, I woke up in Ballyshane.

Come, I’ll show you around.

A garden in Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland welcomes all virtual visitors, as loved ones become virtual travelers to stay connected across the miles during a time of social distancing and self-isolation. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Gardening feels hopeful now.
© Joyce McGreevy

Here are the gardens: raised beds  of rosemary, rhubarb, cardoon, and other organic edibles. The courtyard garden filled with terracotta pots of flowering bulbs. The formal outdoor corridors of box hedge and stone sculpture. The tapestries of tender grasses, daffodils, and bluebells spread under the groves of wind-sculpted trees.

Here come Molly and Rosie, the Irish terriers.

Two Irish terriers in Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland help a writer stay grounded during a time of self-isolation, just as virtual visits help friends and family stay connected across the miles despite social distancing. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

“Good morning, good morning, sweet girls!”
© Joyce McGreevy

They’ve come to take us for a walk. We’ll rove across land that fans out along the coast, then clamber down tufted hillsides where the butter-bright gorse frames the silvery canvas of the sea.

Nature’s varied flora help people self-isolating in Ireland stay grounded, and offer virtual travelers a way to stay connected across the miles, during a time of worldwide social distancing. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Nature’s quilt at Ballyshane, Ireland.
© Joyce McGreevy

We can trot along to the rocky seashore, the girls’ paws picking up the pace the closer we get to the briny scent. Or move stealthily across a field of tall grass, our least step alerting the little birds who forage there. We can watch as they rise in sudden, fluttery clouds.

Speaking of birds, come see the chickens.

Chickens to be fed, fresh eggs to wash, and sharing one’s daily routine with virtual visitors from across the miles helps a traveler self-isolating in Ireland stay grounded during a time of worldwide social distancing. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy).

“Hello, ladies. Any eggs this morning?”
© Joyce McGreevy

Ah, there’s my favorite. If you’re feeling down, her bandy-legged gait will make you grin—she seems to wear feathery bloomers and pedal a penny-farthing  bicycle.

All day long, there’s satisfying work to do.  At evening, it’s quiet. Time to settle in by the fireplace, to log on, contact friends, family, neighbors, and colleagues around the world.

Daffodils at sunset in Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland, suggest how images shared online are helping virtual visitors stay connected across the miles through virtual travel despite worldwide self-isolation and social distancing. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

No filter needed: Sunsets at Ballyshane, Ireland.
© Joyce McGreevy

A sunset in Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland, posted for virtual visitors and travelers, helps people in self-isolation stay connected across the miles while maintaining social distance. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

We’re globally, socially distant but imaginatively gathering close together. We talk, laugh, listen, share worries and encouragement. Each virtual visit is an “Oh, I see” moment:  In a time of separation and uncertainty, words weave us back together.

It’s late. One more look at the stars, then we’ll say goodnight. But please visit me here in Ireland any time. We are all virtual travelers now, and I’ll  visit you, too—in California and Italy; Boston and Istanbul; Seattle and Seoul; New Orleans; New Zealand; wherever you are.

Starlight above an Irish cottage with a satellite dish evokes the way nature and technology support virtual travel, allowing virtual visitors to stay connected across the miles during a time of social distancing and self-isolation. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Starlight & satellite: Nature and technology keep us connected.
© Joyce McGreevy

Between us, we’ll piece together the patchwork of our perforated days. Between us, we’ll remake the quilt of our shared human experience, the stories that make us whole. Because now, more than ever, we need to stay connected across the miles.

A coastal view from Ballyshane, County Cork, Ireland offers perspective to virtual visitors as people rely on virtual travel to stay connected across the miles during a time of global social distancing and self-isolation. (Image © by Joyce McGreevy)

Taking the long view at Ballyshane, Ireland.
© Joyce McGreevy

Take a virtual tour of the cottages at Ballyshane here and here.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Memorable Moments: Haven’t You Heard?

by Your friends at OIC on April 8, 2019

Listen up.
© iStock

Sure, it’s the great writing pared with great visuals that keeps you coming back to share OIC Moments with us, but we don’t want to overlook the impact sounds can have on bringing ideas and experiences to life. So while our bloggers work on what they’ve got to say next, we wanted to give you a look (and a listen) back at some popular posts with audible contributions.

The Daring of the Green

by Joyce McGreevy on March 11, 2019

A man adjusting a dining room chandelier in Glendalough suggests that Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

From Glendalough (above) to Galway, cooks have cast Irish cuisine in a whole new light.

Irish Cuisine Turns the Tables on Culinary Stereotypes

St. Patrick’s Day is coming and you know what that means. It’s time for the Annual Feast of Culinary Stereotypes!

Once a year, sales of green food-dye soar in the U.S., evidenced by neon green bagels, chartreuse cupcakes, and acid-lime donuts. Meanwhile, Corned Beef and Cabbage (which originated in the U.S., not Ireland) will be dutifully served at Irish-themed parties.

Don’t  get me started about green beer and “shamrock” milkshakes. No wonder many people believe “Irish cuisine” is a contradiction in terms.

Forty Shades of Cuisine

But feast on this: To dine at one Michelin-starred or Bib Gourmand restaurant per day in Ireland, you’d need a 40-day vacation. You’d  travel from County Down in the North, along the Irish coast from Dublin to Cork to Galway, and across Ireland’s well-fed middle from Limerick to Kilkenny.

A woman gesturing toward a seafood platter in Howth shows that Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Grainne McMorrow and I share a feast of fish on Dublin’s Howth Peninsula.
© Joyce McGreevy

That’s just for starters. Because you needn’t carry loads of “green” to feast on great Irish cooking.

Oh, I see: Today’s Ireland is studded with culinary gems. From storied estates and castles to gastro-pubs, food trucks, and farmer’s markets, Ireland’s culinary renaissance offers something for every palate and budget.

A vegetable garden in Inish Beg Estate, Cork, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Inish Beg Estate, Co. Cork typifies a “growing” trend toward organic food production.
© Joyce McGreevy

Recipe for a Culinary Renaissance

Only a few decades ago,  critics had their knives out, suggesting there was nothing so bad on Irish menus that Irish cookery couldn’t make it worse. The Ireland of today is a trend-setter, thanks to a whole new recipe:

  1. Start with an island smaller than Indiana but bountiful in seafood, freshwater fish, and forage-able plants.
  2. Add economic prosperity and strong support for organic farming.
  3. Fire up keen interest in new ways of using traditional Irish ingredients.
  4. Stir in meticulous technique and bold experimentation.
  5. Season with cross-cultural inspiration.
  6. Serve in as many creative ways and settings as possible.
Poached eggs from Glebe Gardens, Co. Cork, suggest how Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Poached eggs at Glebe Gardens, Cork, make breakfast a culinary wake-up call.
© Joyce McGreevy

What’s on the Menu?

This year, ditch the green food-dye and treat yourself to a feast of today’s Irish flavors. Here’s a Travel Menu with options for home cooks:

A man cooking at home in Galway, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Home cooks in Ireland celebrate local and cross-cultural ingredients and techniques.
  © Joyce McGreevy

Starters:  In Ireland, where appetizers are called “starters,” the best starter is a food tour. No matter which part of Ireland you visit, there’s a food trail worth following.

Or go straight to Chapter One (18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin). Michelin’s review says: “Good old-fashioned Irish hospitality meets with modern Irish cooking in this stylish restaurant beneath the Writers Museum…Boldly flavored dishes showcase produce from local artisan producers.”

Home cook’s starter: Vodka-Cured Salmon with Avocado Cream, Pickled Vegetables, and Horseradish Mayonnaise (The New Irish Table: Recipes from Ireland’s Top Chefs, edited by Leslie Conron Carola; Charlesbridge Publishing, Inc., 2017)

Gourmet Grocery: Fallon & Byrne, Dublin, “offering the season’s good stuff from land and sea.”

A plate of smoked salmon and brown bread in Galway, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Carolyn McGreevy)

Wild smoked salmon with brown bread is the perfect St. Patrick’s Day appetizer.
© Carolyn McGreevy

Main course: Want the whole Irish enchildada? (Yes, Ireland’s reinvented enchiladas, too!) Take classes at Ballymaloe Cookery School, set on 300 acres of organic farmland in County Cork. Or head to Michelin-starred Loam in Galway for dishes like Lamb Shoulder, Turnip, and Damson fruit.

Home cook’s main course: Discover Allen’s marvelous take on traditional Shepherd’s Pie, made with roast duck and parsnips. Or savor Allen’s Wild Garlic & Potato Soup.

Gourmet Grocery: English Market, Cork City’s outstanding 18th century covered market.

Supper at The Piemaker, Galway, showcases Ireland's culinary renaissance. (Image © Carolyn McGreevy)

Diners line up for savories at The Piemaker, Galway.
© Carolyn McGreevy

Dessert: Feast your eyes on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, then thrill your taste buds with Murphy’s Ice Cream. Founded in Dingle, Murphy’s also chills in Galway and Dublin. Flavors range from Rainwater Sorbets and Caramelized Brown Bread to Honey Lavender and Candied Chili Pepper.

A dessert at Kai Cafe in Galway, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Rhubarb meets edible flowers at Kai Café in Galway.
© Joyce McGreevy

Home cook’s dessert: Bake a “dark and majestic” Guinness cake (from Clodagh’s Irish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Traditional Flavors, by Clodagh McKenna, Kyle Books, 2015).

Gourmet Grocery: McCambridge‘s, Galway, pleasing palates since 1934.

A baker and cake at Burren Cafe, Co. Clare show how Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A luscious black walnut cake at Burren Café favors taste over symmetry.
© Joyce McGreevy

Irish Cuisine Made Easy

Most U.S. grocers stock Irish soda bread, Kerrygold butter, Dublin cheddar, Irish tea, and other Celtic fare. Add  easy-peasy Roast Root Vegetables, with or without chicken or Limerick ham. Then settle in to watch Dare to Be Wild (Netflix), easily the most gorgeous Irish movie you’ll ever see.

A display of plates at a restaurant in Dublin, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Carolyn McGreevy)

The diversity of dishes in Ireland surprises first-time visitors.
© Carolyn McGreevy

You’ll be glad you skipped the culinary stereotypes and sampled today’s Irish cuisine.

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