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Holiday Wanderlust in Leipzig!

by Joyce McGreevy on December 16, 2019

People at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, the annual Christmas market in Leipzig, celebrate centuries-old German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The Christmas Market has been a tradition in Leipzig for 600 years.
© Joyce McGreevy

Winter is Wunderbar at Germany’s Christmas Markets

It’s an ink-dark December morning as my sister and I board the train in Berlin. Yet our hearts are light, warmed by the promise of discovery.  Winter wanderlust leads us to Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt one of Germany’s oldest, biggest, and most beautiful Christmas markets!

Now popular around the world, the European tradition of the December market wasn’t always so charming. In the early Middle Ages, it was merely the last chance to stock up on supplies before hunkering down for a long, miserable winter. Visions of survival, not sugar plums, danced through one’s head in those days.

In the 1400s, markets took a festive turn. Carved wooden toys, gingerbread, and other treats began appearing among the sacks of grain and racks of farming tools.

A vendor’s stall selling pine wreaths and boughs at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, the annual Christmas market in Leipzig, reflects one of Germany’s Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Baby, take a bough! The tradition of Christmas wreaths began in Germany.
© Joyce McGreevy

Martin’s Market Effect

Intentionally or not, Martin Luther also gave Germany’s Christmas markets a boost.

According to historian Erika Kohler, the 16th-century church reformer’s “rejection of the veneration of saints . . . supplanted Saint Nicholas as the giver of gifts.” As a result, the most favored day for gift-giving shifted from December 6 to Christmas Eve.

A statue of Martin Luther at a Christmas market in Berlin, Germany reminds the viewer of the church reformer’s role in shaping German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Martin Luther overlooks a Christmas Market near Berlin’s oldest church (1200s)
and the iconic TV Tower (1969).
© Joyce McGreevy

Today, Germany is home to several hundred Christmas markets—Berlin alone has more than 70. Whether you travel west to Cologne, east to Dresden, south to Munich, or points between, you’ll find a market to suit your mood.

A City of Peace and Celebration

For Carolyn and me, that’s Leipzig—the city renowned for classical music, creativity, and the beauty of its Gothic architecture.

A prosperous commercial center, Leipzig revealed even greater worth when, in October 1989, it hosted the largest peaceful protest in East Germany. Historians consider the “Peaceful Revolution” a key  factor in accelerating the Fall of the Berlin Wall.

What to Our Wondering Eyes Did Appear

Half a century later, my sister and I exit the largest terminal railway station in Europe and marvel at what we see:  the entire city center has been transformed into a winter wonderland.

Crowds at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt reflect the wanderlust that draws people from all over the world to Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Christmas markets are made for strolling, not hunting for a parking place.
Most Germans arrive by train or tram.
© Joyce McGreevy

Oh, I see: This must be how Dorothy felt when the doors of the Emerald City swung open. In Leipzig, the Weihnachtsmarkt is a world immersed in magic.

A beautifully decorated vendor’s stall filled with artisan crafts invites shoppers to take a closer look at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, one of Germany’s Christmas oldest Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Decorated stalls and goods for all budgets lure shoppers in Leipzig.
© Joyce McGreevy

Wooden holiday huts line every avenue and lane, each hut ornately decorated and laden with artisan goods. Forests of twinkling fir trees sprout from their rooftops. Carousel horses circle, crowds on foot flow by, and a Ferris wheel revolves above gilded spires.

A Ferris wheel’s view of the Christmas market crowds in Leipzig, Germany shows why wanderlust draws people from all over the world to celebrate this popular German Christmas tradition. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Ride the Ferris wheel to see how the holiday bustle takes over the streets of Leipzig.
© Joyce McGreevy

The air is redolent with berry-red glühwein (mulled wine), savory bratwürst, and caramelized sugar. Music fills the air, too—a busker acing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons on accordion; carolers at the Old Town Hall; and trumpeters outside Thomaskirche, the church where Johann Sebastian Bach was choirmaster.

A statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in the moonlight outside Thomaskirche in Leipzig inspires wanderlust to explore more of Germany’s holiday traditions, including Bach’s Christmas cantatas. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Leipzig, Bach wrote choral cantatas at the rate of one a week.
Listen to a seasonal example, here.
© Joyce McGreevy

How German Christmas Traditions Crossed Cultures

Yuletide revelry has been a Leipzig tradition since 1458. Americans, by contrast, did little to “mark the day,” let alone the season, until the 1800s. Then two German immigrants changed everything. Thomas Nast is the better known, the illustrator whose images of Santa Claus became iconic.

Less known is Karl “Charles” Follen, a German refugee, Harvard professor, and abolitionist. In the 1830s, readers of a popular American magazine learned that each December Charles and his wife Eliza surprised guests with something extraordinary: a Christmas tree:

The tree was set in a tub and its branches hung with small dolls, gilded eggshells, and paper cornucopias filled with candied fruit. The tree was illuminated with numerous candles.

A Christmas tree in a red-carpeted, ornate passageway in Leipzig, Germany reflects one of the German Christmas traditions that inspire wanderlust for holiday travel. Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Leipzig’s network of courtyard passages and arcades dates back over 500 years.
© Joyce McGreevy

The spell was cast.  Americans began adopting German Christmas traditions as their own, including glass ornaments, wooden nutcrackers, and  . . .

An Advent wreath set against the beautiful architecture of Leipzig, Germany reflects a German Christmas tradition and inspires wanderlust for holiday travel. Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Advent wreaths and Advent calendars. In Germany, most families make their own.
© Joyce McGreevy

A giant Christmas pyramid, or Weihnachtspyramide, set against the beautiful architecture of Leipzig, Germany reflects a German Christmas tradition and inspires wanderlust for holiday travel. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Christmas pyramids. (A rotor at the top is driven by warm air from lit candles.)
© Joyce McGreevy

A travel mascot with a kinderpunsch mug and crowds enjoying gluhwein in Leipzig reflect the Germany Christmas traditions that inspire wanderlust to visit Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Glühwein (mulled wine) and alcohol-free kinderpunsch. Pay a small pfand (deposit)
for  the option of returning the mug or keeping a holiday souvenir.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Right Pickle

One “German” tradition may not be German at all: the Christmas pickle.

Thanks to demand among tourists, you’ll find this ornament at KaDaWe, Berlin’s massive department store. But mention the Weihnachtsgurke to most Germans and they’ll wonder what-the-dill you’re talking about.

Happily, the murky gherkin myth is our only jarring experience. In Germany’s holiday markets, food is so tasty that even our inability to pronounce certain dishes cannot stop us from trying them. My sister and I sample whatever we see—then walk 6-8 miles a day to keep it from becoming permanent souvenirs.

Waffles with vanilla cream and Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts) are popular traditional holiday foods in Leipzig, a destination that inspires wanderlust to explore Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Waffles with vanilla cream are a Leipzig specialty; Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts)
are popular throughout Germany. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Holiday Travel Tips

Ready to plan some Weihnachtsmarkt travel of your own? Most Christmas markets run from late November to January 5.

The Hotel Fürstenhof Leipzig is the perfect setting for a traveler with winter wanderlust, close to one of Germany’s most traditional Christmas markets, the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Built in the 1770s, Leipzig’s Hotel Fürstenhof is the perfect place
to review your Christmas market itinerary.
© Joyce McGreevy

Pack light to save half your suitcase for holiday gifts. To stay warm without bulk, wear packable down, thermals, and stick to Berlin’s favorite fashion tone: black. Then savor the color at Germany’s Christmas markets.

Happy Wanderlust to all, and to all holiday travelers, a good flight!

A man dressed as Father Christmas, spotted among pedestrians in Leipzig, Germany reflects the fun and whimsy of German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

It’s beginning to look a lot like . . .!
© Joyce McGreevy

See video of the Leipziger Weihnactsmarkt here.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Healthy Recipes for Your Body and Spirit

by Meredith Mullins on April 30, 2018

A spinach and polenta gratin, one of the healthy recipes from Chef Hubert Hohler, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A tribute to healthy eating: Spinach and polenta gratin

A Cultural Encounter with Healthy Eating

Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are—Brillat-Savarin

Our eating habits and cooking strategies often reveal something about us.

Since I find this revelation to be true for myself, I’m sharing a story about inspiration . . . and how eating and cooking patterns can be influenced after experiencing life-changing OIC moments.

Green wild herb soup with flowers, a soup for healthy eating showing a cultural encounter with healthy recipes. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Wild herb soup—made with nettle, dandelion, and wild garlic
© Meredith Mullins

A Fasting Tale

Full disclosure. I am not a cook. I am also not a particularly healthy eater, which I conveniently blame on genetics. However, twice a year I go to the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany for a cleansing fast. (See OIC story.)

I come away with much more than a new lightness of being (physical, mental, and spiritual), a rested digestive tract, and the joy of fasting euphoria (although those treasures alone would be worth the trip). I see my visit as a cultural encounter with good health—in the moment and for the future.

A range of vegetarian healthy recipes, showing the cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A variety of choices for healthy eating
© Meredith Mullins

I am inspired to continue the program of healthy eating and to actually take the giant step of preparing some of the recipes that I have been shown. I also look forward to practicing some of the tips introduced in the demonstrations and lectures.

Salad with sprouts and apples, a healthy recipe from Chef Hubert Hohler at Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Sprout and apple salad—so fresh, so easy
© Meredith Mullins

First-Time Memories

I pause here to mention that the first time I came to the clinic, I was not especially embracing the idea of fasting. I updated my will before I made the journey and said goodbye to friends and family as if it were the last time I would see them. I was not convinced I would survive.

I had never fasted before, and had visions of hunger, heartburn, and hallucinations. As it turned out, I was pleasantly surprised.

Vegetable soup from chef Hubert Hohler at the Buchinger-Wilhelmi fasting clinic in Germany, a healthy recipe for fasting, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Garden vegetable soup for a fasting dinner (you come to love it!)
© Meredith Mullins

It seems I was a natural. No hunger. No heartburn. And only a few hallucinations on the famous Day 5 of the fast (where they say one often begins to feel the fasting high).

At the clinic, it’s not just about what you are eating (or not eating). It’s about a total reset of your body so that healthy eating becomes a natural rhythm once you return to the outside world.

Chef Hubert Hoholer of Buchinger-Wilhelmi Clinic in Germany, a chef sharing healthy recipes for a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Chef Hubert Hohler explains the reason for minimizing oil in cooking.
© Meredith Mullins

A Spirit Guide with Heart

A large part of that healthy food experience comes from the heart of Chef Hubert Hohler. He has been with the clinic for 25 years and brings passion, exacting standards, and joy to his job.

He also is an expert in plant-based cooking with pure organic materials, and shares his knowledge with clinic guests via twice weekly cooking demonstrations.

Pan with zucchini and rosemary, a healthy recipe from chef Hubert Hohler of the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Chef Hohler’s advice: Sauté with no oil. Just herbs and the natural liquid of the vegetable.
© Meredith Mullins

Chef Hohler is a good role model for clinic guests. He understands the fasting process, as he has fasted every year for the past 30 years. And, most of all, he loves to cook.

He is dedicated to creating delicious healthy organic food—the tasty broths for fasting and the vegetarian meals to lead in and out of the fast or for people who prefer just a low calorie healthy program.

chef Hubert Hohler at the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Making fennel sauce or soup—you can decide after the basic preparation.
© Meredith Mullins

He visits other cultures and brings the best of those worlds to his recipes. He experiments constantly, all with a goal of increasing the health value of the food. And he knows that certain recipes, the ones that long-time guests look forward to, should remain as is. It is not necessary to make them “new.”

Soufflé with vegetables, one of the healthy recipes from Chef Hubert Hohler at the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A favorite: the easy-to-make quinoa or cottage cheese soufflé
© Meredith Mullins

Five Basic Tips for Healthy Eating

Here are five tips I’ve learned at Buchinger-Wilhelmi from Chef Hohler (with a reminder that I’m not a cook, so I have much to learn.) I am happy to report that these have now become a part of my everyday healthy-eating processes.

  1. Control oil (quantity and quality). Sauté vegetables without oil, as the natural liquid in the vegetables is sufficient. Add a touch of oil to your dish at the end to give taste. Make use of a variety of quality oils. For example, use almond oil to sweeten a bitter taste or walnut oil to add astringency to something sweet.
  2. Use natural sweeteners rather than sugar. Ripe fruit serves as a sweetener (bananas, apples, apple juice).
  3. Create salad dressings using blended vegetables (avocado, carrots, tomatoes) to minimize fat and calories. (Try the avocado vinaigrette in the free recipes below.)
Salad with avocado vinaigrette dressing, a healthy recipe from Chef Hubert Hohler, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The avocado vinaigrette dressing with a touch of tomato to change the taste and color
© Meredith Mullins

4. For soup or sauce, start with the basics: onion, potato, and a vegetable. The only difference between soup and sauce is the amount of liquid in relation to the vegetables and the fact that a soup must stand on its own, while a sauce accompanies something to complement it.

5. Use fresh herbs for seasoning rather than salt. As you think about seasoning, taste to see what you’re missing on your tongue’s taste buds (sweet, salt, bitter, sour). In other words, don’t just add salt. Be more creative. Think about what herb or spice can add the missing taste.

OIC invites you to download the special free recipes below for practical ways to use these tips.

A bouquet of wild herbs and flowers to be used in healthy recipes for a cultural encounter in healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Everything in this bouquet can be used in cooking.
© Meredith Mullins

Beyond Tips and Recipes

In addition to the tips from Chef Hohler, his spirit of cooking organically is everpresent. He is careful about all the products he uses. He knows the producers and what processes they use. And he relies on seasonal products to ensure the freshest of ingredients.

From his time as a teenager helping to harvest his family’s asparagus crop, he has learned to appreciate the work behind products.

White asparagus in a pot, one of the healthy recipes of Chef Hubert Hohler of the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Even though Chef Hohler had to wake up at 5 am to harvest his family’s white asparagus,
he still loves to cook with it.
© Meredith Mullins

He looks for producers who really care about what they’re doing. If something is grown with love, he feels that the love will be noticed. And, then, when the kitchen also prepares the food with love, he believes that combination is a real treasure for those who are eating.

Chef Hubert Hohler at the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany demonstrating healthy recipes for a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A cooking demonstration that tempts all the senses.
© Meredith Mullins

A Change in Everyday Rhythms

Yes, it may be difficult to watch a cooking demonstration when fasting. After all, those wonderfully fresh vegetables and fruits seem very different from the broth for dinner. And the smells from the demo seem to touch all the senses in a cruelly heightened way.

Piece of lavender cake from the healthy recipes of chef Hubert Hohler at the Buchinger-Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, showing a cultural encounter with healthy eating. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Yes, desserts are allowed after the fast, so try this lavender cake with a pear topping
© Meredith Mullins

But what this theatre of food preparation is actually doing is providing a look into the future. This is what I’ll be doing when I leave Buchinger-Wilhelmi (albeit not in quite as nice a kitchen).

The sights and sounds and smells have found a way to some deeper place. This cultural encounter with healthy eating will now be a part of my everyday rhythm.

Ready for some easy-to-make, delicious, healthy food?  OIC offers this free download of favorite recipes for healthy eating from Chef Hubert Hohler. 

 

Thank you to the Buchinger-Wilhelmi Clinic for this inspiration for healthy eating.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

 

Challenging the Cultural Traditions of Food

by Meredith Mullins on May 16, 2016

Artichoke and rice meal, part of a fasting experience challenging the cultural traditions of food. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The beauty of healthy food
© Meredith Mullins

A Fascinating Fasting Adventure

We love to eat. It is one of the pleasures (and necessities) of existence. Food is a feast for our senses—a visual journey of color and form, a delight in smell and taste, often a tactile adventure (especially when you eat with your hands!), and even an auditory experience as we crunch an apple or carrot . . . or as we listen to the popping of popcorn or the sizzle of shrimp on the barbie.

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