Oh, I see! moments
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Finding the Spirit of Monet’s Giverny Gardens

by Meredith Mullins on July 9, 2018

View of the Japanese bridge with wisteria in Monet's Giverny Gardens, travel inspiration for the senses. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Monet’s Giverny Gardens
© Meredith Mullins

Travel Inspiration for the Senses

Finding a moment of solitude in Monet’s Giverny gardens may not be easy, with the constant parade of visitors. But the colors, smells, sounds, and spirit offer travel inspiration of the best kind.

A visit is worth the investment of time, and the search for quiet and connection is rewarding in a world that inspired Monet’s painting for more than 40 years.

Once the selfies are done and most of the visitors have left in the late afternoon (or when you’re visiting in the early mist of morning), there is a magic moment when the subtleties and power of nature emerge.

Monet's Giverny gardens with azaleas and house in the distance, travel inspiration for Monet fans and artists. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Becoming part of the natural rhythms
© Meredith Mullins

Fish jump in the waterlily pond, as if they are finally free to leap skyward. Frogs croak in lively amphibious conversation. Birds dance across the now-less-traveled paths and come alive with song in the trees. And the flowers seem to be swaying in the gentle light.

This is a time when you can really look—when you can feel Monet’s artistic heart and soul and when you can sit, as he did, feeling the natural rhythms of the earth.

As Monet said, “The richness I achieve comes from Nature, the source of my inspiration. I perhaps owe becoming a painter to flowers.”

The Clos Normand garden at Monet's Giverny Gardens, travel inspiration for visitors and artists to Monet's gardens. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The Clos Normand
© Meredith Mullins

Monet’s Greatest Masterpiece

Monet’s gardens were one of his greatest masterpieces. The two parts of the gardens provide different sensory experiences, different kinds of inspiration.

The flower garden (called the Clos Normand) near the two-story pink stucco house was an orchard and kitchen garden when Monet moved into the house in 1883.

Monet's house at Giverny gardens with spring tulips, travel inspiration for visitors and artists following Monet's path. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Spring tulips near the pink stucco house
© Meredith Mullins

Monet redesigned the hectare of land into a garden full of color-themed borders, fruit trees, and thousands of flowers that changed with the seasons, including tulips, irises, poppies, roses, sunflowers, dahlias, asters, peonies, foxgloves, and many more.

The central alley is covered by iron arches where roses climb during June and under which nasturtiums begin their zealous crawl in July and August.

Monet's Clos Normand garden and the grand alley, travel inspiration in Giverny gardens. (Image © Elizabeth Murray.)

The grand allée with summer roses
© Elizabeth Murray

Monet was sensitive to the garden palette, but he was not a slave to organization and constraint. He let the flowers grow freely. He mixed the wild and cultivated, the simple with the rare.

In later years, he developed a passion for botany, and frequently introduced new plants into the garden. “All my money goes into my garden,” he said. But that is what made him happy.

Window curtain and view of garden, travel inspiration at Monet's Giverny gardens. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The enticing view from Monet’s window
© Meredith Mullins

Ten years after his arrival in Giverny, he bought land across the road and dug a pond, in the style of the Japanese aesthetic he so admired. Because the Water Garden (Jardin d’eau) was fed by a stream from the river Epte, his neighbors were opposed, thinking that all the strange plants would poison their water.

Waterlily pond in the rain, travel inspiration at Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Even in the rain, the Japanese waterlily pond is beautiful.
© Meredith Mullins

He designed the water garden with a Japanese bridge covered by wisteria and with winding paths of weeping willows, bamboo, azeleas, ferns, and rhododendrons. The famous waterlilies (nymphéas) bloom in multicolors in the summer.

Waterlily on Monet's waterlily pond, travel inspiration at Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The nymphéas that spoke to Monet’s spirit
© Meredith Mullins

It was with this theme of water that he explored layers of reality and dream; inversions; reflections; and the dance between earth, water, and sky.

Paintings that Come to Life

In Monet’s paintings, we can experience his garden in all its impressionist glory. When in the garden, however, the paintings come to life.

The many “Oh, I see” moments that are a part of Monet’s own discoveries bring all the richness of his artistry into three-dimensional wonder.

Azaleas at the Japanese waterlily pond, travel inspiration at the Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The paintings come to life when you’re alone at Giverny gardens.
© Meredith Mullins

As American artist Kathy Calcagno lamented after seeing a Monet exhibit at a museum in the U.S., “I remember being filled with longing to visit those flowers . . . to see the light reflecting off ponds and trees.”

Kathy fulfilled that dream as part of a June workshop in Giverny by gardener/artist/author Elizabeth Murray—who offered a week of visits to the garden before and after visiting hours.

Elizabeth suggests entering Monet’s garden in a quiet, respectful way, as you would enter a sacred space, such as a temple or cathedral.

Painting in the Clos Normand, travel inspiration in Monet's Giverny Gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Feeling Monet’s spirit
© Meredith Mullins

“This is when you can feel Monet’s spirit most,” she says of the garden, which she calls a family member, since she has spent more than half her life visiting the garden, photographing it, painting it, studying it, and writing and speaking about it.

As American Irene Patton noted after a week in the garden with Elizabeth’s workshop, “The layers in the gardens are incredible. Every day brings a new discovery. You have to be open and take your time.”

Boats in the waterlily pond, travel inspiration from Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Many layers to discover
© Meredith Mullins

Preparing for the Moment

 One way to prepare for the multisensory experience of being in Monet’s gardens is to visit some of the museums in Paris that best represent his work.

The Musée d’Orsay and the Marmottan museum offer excellent collections.

However, the must-see museum is the Musée de l’Orangerie, with its installation of eight compositions created during the last 30 years of Monet’s life and inspired by the waterlilies and the flora around the Japanese pond at Giverny.

A panorama of Monet's Nymphéas at the Musée de l'Orangerie, travel inspiration for Monet's Giverny Gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A (slightly distorted) view of Monet’s unique installation in the Musée de l’Orangerie
© Meredith Mullins

The panels were specifically made for the two rooms with curved walls, designed in the shape of an infinity symbol.

The 100 linear meters of Giverny landscape were intended to surround viewers, giving them, in Monet’s words, “an illusion of an endless whole, of a wave with no horizon and no shore.”

Monet offered this project to the French State as a symbol of peace on the day after the Amistice of World War I.

One of the nymphéas panels at the Musée de l'Orangerie, travel inspiration for Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

One of the eight Nymphéas pieces at the Musée de l’Orangerie
© Meredith Mullins

A Game of Faces

At the risk of being called crazy (again), I now include my own theory of the many faces of Monet. Over the years, as I meditated on the expansive panels in the Orangerie, I began to discover many hidden faces.

Detail of waterlily painting from the Musée de l'Orangerie with a face, travel inspiration for the Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Do you see the self-portrait of Monsieur Monet himself?
© Meredith Mullins (Detail from Monet painting at the Musée de l’Orangerie)

Whether intended or not by Monet, the faces are clearly there (aren’t they?), although I have read no research about them. When I mention them to curators, they give me the knowing look of a mental institution guardian.

However, in the spirit of OIC Moments fun, I include photos of panel details and challenge you to find the faces.

Detail of a nymphéas panel at the Musée de l'Orangerie, travel inspiration for Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.

Can you find the face in this detail of a Nymphéas panel?
© Meredith Mullins
(Detail from Monet painting at the Musée de l’Orangerie)

And, in the spirit of OIC Moments travel inspiration, I invite you to visit the Giverny gardens and to take time to smell and see and hear the gardens.

Monet’s life was a true collaboration with a living, growing work of art and architecture. We are privileged to be a part of his artistry.

Man with umbrella, travel inspiration in Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

In all seasons, in all weather . . .
© Meredith Mullins

For more information about the Giverny gardens, which are open from March through October, visit Giverny Monet’s Gardens and the Giverny Fondation Claude Monet.

For more information about Elizabeth Murray’s Giverny workshops and her books, including Monet’s Passion, visit her website.

Also, take a look at the Musée de l’Orangerie, Musée d’Orsay, and the Musée Marmottan.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Oradour-sur-Glane: A Story Stopped in Time and Memory

by Meredith Mullins on June 26, 2018

Rusted out cars in front of a burned out building in Oradour sur Glane, France, the site of the cultural history of a Nazi massacre during WW II. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The sobering story of the Nazi obliteration of an entire village
© Meredith Mullins

A Moment of WW II Cultural History that Should Not Be Forgotten

I knew the “Oh, I see” Moment would be memorable. The lump in my throat began to build long before I got close to Oradour-sur-Glane.

As the green of the Limousin countryside flew by and the road signs of well-known World War II French villages came and went, I was in full time-travel mode back to June 1944 . . . filled with a gut-wrenching sadness.

Travel Inspiration from Lemons . . . Lots of Lemons

by Meredith Mullins on February 26, 2018

An elephant temple made of lemons and oranges, part of the Menton Lemon Festival that provides travel inspiration to learn about lemons and India. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

An Indian Elephant Temple made of lemons and oranges
© Meredith Mullins

Welcome to the Menton Lemon Festival

What happens when a small French coastal town has one of the most famous lemons in the world thriving on its sunny hillsides?

The townspeople know a surprising number of lemon jokes?

Q: Why did the lemon go to the doctor?
A: Because it wasn’t peeling well.

Q: Why did the lemon get depressed?
A: Because it lost its zest for life.

 Perhaps . . . but they’re too cultured to say these eye-rollers out loud.

Bottles of limoncello, travel inspiration to visit the Menton Lemon Festival. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Limoncello, an Italian lemon liqueur
© Meredith Mullins

The townspeople make a plethora of lemon-based concoctions?

Yes. True. Lemon products abound. Limoncello, jams and jellies (confitures), lemonade, lemon tarts, lemon vinegars, lemon lollipops, perfume, syrups, soap, and olive oil and honey with lemon infusion.

Why not make the most of your assets?

Lemon magnets at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Lemon kitsch
© Meredith Mullins

The town promotes its lemons well?

The word is out.  Many of the great chefs of the world have incorporated Menton lemons into their creations, prizing the fruit’s perfect balance of flavor and sweetness and the unique quality of its skin’s essential oil.

The town honors its treasure?

Most of all, the town honors its bright yellow gem (also known as “Riviera Gold”) with an annual multi-week citrus celebration that begins in mid-February . . . providing a town blanket of warm, sunny colors (and plenty of Vitamin C) in anticipation of spring.

Welcome to the now famous Menton Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival)—travel inspiration fueled by fruity innovation . . . in fact, 145 tons of fruit.

A monkey sculpture made of lemons and oranges at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Citrus sculpture designers begin a year in advance.
© Meredith Mullins

Lemons and Oranges Everywhere

For 85 years, Menton has been celebrating its love of the lemon during the annual Citrus Festival, each year evolving to add more artistry and more events.

The “Oh, I see” moments can be squeezed from every corner of town. (That’s another bad lemon joke in case you missed it.)

There are exhibits, fruit sculptures, concerts, parties, and parades with floats made of citrus and flowers and tons of confetti.

Parade float with Indian man throwing confetti at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The night parades leave the streets (and revelers) snow-covered with confetti.
© Meredith Mullins

Each year’s theme is different, but all offer an opportunity for education and discovery.

Often, the theme features a country and its culture. Sometimes, the theme focuses on literary characters, famous people, or fairy tales (such as Pinocchio, Alice in Wonderland, Asterix, Jules Verne, and Mozart) or broader themes, such as music of the world, love, circuses, movies, or great civilizations.

Visitors can learn the history and characteristics of the Menton lemon and, with this year’s theme of Bollywood, can gain the added bonus of learning about Indian culture and the history of Indian cinema.

A rickshaw made of lemons and oranges at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The rickshaw is a popular transportation vehicle in India.
© Meredith Mullins

What’s Different about the Menton Lemon?

The first OIC Moment at the festival is learning how to distinguish the Menton lemon. Its beauty is in its imperfections and in its hidden secrets.

It is not a perfect lemon shape as we know it. It is elliptical, with a little bell bump at the end. It is a brighter yellow than most lemons and sometimes has indentations and brown spots on the skin. It epitomizes the Japanese art of imperfection (wabi-sabi), where flaws are embraced.

Menton lemons on a branch, travel inspiration to visit the Menton Lemon Festival. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Think different: the Menton lemon
© Meredith Mullins

Its thick skin harbors the sought after essential oils and its sweetness is unusual. You can smell its sunlit fragrance from a distance. And you can take a bite without an after-pucker. There is no bitter finish.

These lemon trees flourish in the Menton microclimate—the warmest town in France, with more than 300 days of sun a year. The salty sea breezes, sandstone soil, and moderate differences in temperature between day and night are also beneficial to growth.

Lemon trees for sale at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Grow your own?
© Meredith Mullins

The mountains to the north protect the trees from wind, especially when the branches are heavy with fruit (branches that produce three times more lemons per branch than regular lemon trees).

The Festival of the Lemons (Fête du Citron)

To thank the lemon gods for such an abundance—and to share the beauty of the fruit with a wide audience—the annual festival turns lemons (and oranges) into high art.

The Indian god Ganesh made of lemons and oranges at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Ganesh: The most popular deity in India
© Meredith Mullins

More than 140 tons of citrus fruit are needed. Many of the lemons and oranges come from Spain and North Africa, since the Menton lemons are somewhat limited and are so highly prized for gourmet purposes.

In addition, 750,000 elastic bands and five miles of chicken wire are the basic tools for 20,000 hours of work by the artists and production team responsible for creating the parade floats and the garden sculptures.

A peacock made of lemons and oranges at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The peacock, a symbol of immortality, is the national bird of India.
© Meredith Mullins

The theme is selected almost a year in advance. The designers immerse themselves in their new work and provide research and sketches for the floats and sculptures.

They then add color (yellow and orange are dominant, of course), and work begins on the first floats five months in advance. The fruit is the last component since it needs to be fresh.

It takes about 100 pounds of oranges or 65 pounds of lemons to cover one square meter of a float or sculpture. And ten additional tons of fruit are needed to replace damaged or deteriorating fruit during the festival.

The Taj Mahal in lemons and oranges at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

How many lemons and oranges does it take to build a Taj Mahal?
© Meredith Mullins

A Citrus Voyage through India

The 2018 theme of Bollywood was rich in travel inspiration.

We can travel from the Taj Mahal to an elephant temple and from Bollywood dancers to sitar musicians. We can learn about Hindu gods and everyday India life.

Hindu goddess Saraswati at the night parade of the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of knowledge, music, art, wisdom, and learning
© Meredith Mullins

Each imaginative sculpture of lemons and oranges provides a glimpse into the Indian culture.

Bollywood cinema is a world full of color, music, spirituality, and the beauty of nature, interwoven with the day-to-day lives of its heroes. It is a perfect theme for the Fête du Citron, as this festival has all of that . . . and more.

A Buddha made of lemons and oranges at the Menton Lemon Festival, travel inspiration for unusual events. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Buddha offers a sacred lotus flower, the national flower of India.
© Meredith Mullins

A Legacy of Paradise

Legend has it that Eve (of Adam and Eve fame) brought a “golden fruit” from the Garden of Eden when she and Adam were banished. This theft made Adam nervous and he begged Eve to throw the fruit away.

They wandered far and wide before coming upon Menton and the Bay of Garavan, a place that reminded them so much of paradise that Eve decided to bury the golden fruit there.

The rest, as they say, is history. The lemon flourished.

Whatever your beliefs, the town of Menton is indeed a paradise . . . and even more of a paradise with the celebrated Menton lemon. It is travel inspiration of the sunniest kind.

The 2018 Fête du Citron runs until March 4, with exhibits, parades, and even a Holi party to celebrate India’s festival of colors. Visit the festival website and the Menton Tourist Office.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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