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A Very English Holiday Ramble

by Joyce McGreevy on December 12, 2017

For Revelers with Wanderlust

Albemarle Street, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Albermarle Street in London inspires holiday wanderlust.
© Joyce McGreevy

On a cold December morning, the London sky is gray, the sunlight as stingy as the fire in Scrooge’s counting-house. But the air is fresh, our hearts are filled with festive wanderlust, and we’re off on a Very English Holiday Ramble. Come join us in search of “Oh I see” moments, magic, and a seasonal surprise.

An Airbnb flat in Elephant and Castle, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Holiday flats are charming (and rents less alarming) south of the Thames.
© Joyce McGreevy

We begin our ramble in Elephant and Castle, a vibrant, hardworking neighborhood named for a long-gone tavern. The tavern’s name, in turn, was a playful tribute to La Infanta de Castile, who was once engaged to Britain’s Charles I. Good to know if we’re ever in a pub on “Trivia Quiz” night.

For the festive season, exploring on foot is a must. Why? It’s positively Dickensian. Charles Dickens often walked 20 miles a day, exploring London in detail, then recreating it on the page.

Besides, walking reveals charms we’d otherwise miss:

Red Cross Way Garden, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A garden on Red Cross Way, the 1886 flagship project of Octavia Hill, a founder of the National Trust.
© Joyce McGreevy

A sign in London offers inspiration during an English holiday ramble. (Photo © Joyce McGreevy)

A sentiment for all seasons from Turner Prize-nominated artist Mark Titchner.
© Joyce McGreevy

A window display in Southwark, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A window display that sparks memories of handwritten holiday cards.
© Joyce McGreevy

A ghost sign in Southwark, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Another fine sentiment—and a vintage beer ad, at what was once the largest brewery in the world.
© Joyce McGreevy

This is a sign, pun intended, that we’re approaching London’s oldest food market. Borough Market has been serving the people of Southwark for 1,000 years including “the best of times and the worst of times.”

A produce shop at Borough Market, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At Borough Market, foods are the real deal—fresh, fragrant, and flavorful. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Fresh lemons at Borough Market inspire wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

© Joyce McGreevy

Yes, Borough experienced tragedy in June 2017. But on this cold and brightening morning, Borough is a place where  . . .

Children caroling at Borough Market, London inspire onlookers during an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Carolers sing . . .
© Joyce McGreevy

Handmade fudge at the Borough Market inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

. . . and life is sweet.
© Joyce McGreevy

Crossing London Bridge, we catch sight of the Bank Station Underground. But don’t hop on the Tube yet, because we’re only a stroll away from another festive sight.  See if you recognize it:

Leadhall Market inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Hint: Harry Potter fans love this market in London.
© Joyce McGreevy

A view of Leadenhall Market, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Yes, it’s Leadenhall Market, the real-life inspiration for Diagon Alley.
© Joyce McGreevy

On to the mighty, muddy Thames at Southbank. “Ooh, what’s down there?”

Pop-up shops under Millennium Bridge in London inspire wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Pop-up holiday huts under the London Millennium Bridge 
© Joyce McGreevy

“Oy! Save us a hot cuppa and a waffle, will ya?”

What’s next on our holiday rambles list? We could . . .

A pop-up igloo at Southbank, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

. . . have lunch in a very English igloo . . .
© Joyce McGreevy

A pop-up ski-lodge themed bar at Southbank, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

. . . or sip mulled wine by the fire at a just-for-fun Thames-side ski lodge.
© Joyce McGreevy

Oh look, there’s a Foyle’s bookshop. Come on!

Southbank, London in December inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A sign in Foyle’s announces, “Welcome, book lovers, you are among friends.”
© Joyce McGreevy

Wanderlust turns to book lust when we see Foyle’s Books for a Year table. Lucky gift recipients receive a brand-new book every month, each chosen for “its must-haveness or unputdownability.”

So many books, so few suitcases.

Fortunately, there’s room for a seasonal treat, a poetry pamphlet series called “Instead of a Card.” Candlestick Press of Nottingham publishes these charmers “not only for people who already love poetry, but also for those who will love it but perhaps don’t know that yet.” Sales also benefit charity.

Poetry pamphlets from Candlestick Press, Nottingham offer inspiration during an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Candlestick Press hopes “to revive the seasonal tradition of reading by the fire.”
© Joyce McGreevy/Candlestick Press

Suddenly we hear bells! Reindeer? No, the “mobile.” The caller says, “If you miss this, you’ve missed a marvel!” She’s quoting a theatre review.

Quick—to the West End! (Yes, by Tube. Sorry, Charles.) But first, sustenance. We’re in luck. Street Food Union is right around the corner.  Mmm, what’s this? 

Yorkshire Burritos on Rupert Street, London inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Yorkshire Burrito? Sounds daft—we must have some.
© Joyce McGreevy

Our new BFF (Burrito-style Favorite Food) is braised pork shoulder cooked in cider and herbs, served with sage and onion stuffing, rosemary roast potatoes, spinach, and applesauce, wrapped in a giant Yorkshire pudding. Jolly good, amigos!

The Gielgud Theatre inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Theatre-goers arrive at the Gielgud on Shaftesbury Avenue.
© Joyce McGreevy

When we exit the theatre, night has fallen, yet it’s 4:30 p.m. All the better to see holiday lights!

Angelic decorations over Regent St, London inspire wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

From angelic lights above Regent Street . . .
© Joyce McGreevy

Tropical decorations over Carnaby St, London inspire wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

. . . to tropical lights on Carnaby Street.
© Joyce McGreevy

There really is magic in the air, a sense that holiday spirits could suddenly whisk us off to . . .

The English Market, Cork, Ireland inspires wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Hey, this isn’t London—this is Cork City, Ireland!
© Joyce McGreevy

Yet our Very English Holiday Ramble continues. Launched in 1788, Ireland’s English Market is considered one of the ten best food markets in Europe.

Oh, I see: It wouldn’t be the festive season without a surprise! I guess you just never know where holiday wanderlust might lead.

Vendors at the English Market, Cork, Ireland offer mince pies that inspire wanderlust for an English holiday ramble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Why just envision sugarplums? At Heaven’s Cakes, in Cork’s
English Market, Laurie and Cíara serve tasty mince pies.
© Joyce McGreevy

Click on the links to find out more about Borough Market, Leadenhall Market, Foyle’s, Candlestick Press, Yorkshire Burrito, Cork’s English Market, or Heaven’s Cakes

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A College Course in Wanderlust?

by Joyce McGreevy on September 5, 2017

A dorm room at Carr-Saunders Hall, London lets travelers on a budget indulge their wanderlust. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Basic but comfy, a dorm room at Carr-Saunders Hall, London makes travel affordable for all.
© Joyce McGreevy

Travelers on Budgets
Go Back to School

As students return to college each September, another group is preparing for college visits— travelers on budgets. To pursue their wanderlust, they’re majoring in Travel Economics.

How? By booking “university vacation-accommodations.”

Translation:  They’re staying in dorms.

More and more colleges today offer clean, comfortable dorm rooms to non-student visitors. While some do so only when classes aren’t in session, a growing number of colleges offer dorms year-round.

For travelers on budgets, this means more “oh I see moments” in the history, geography, arts, and culture of world destinations—and fewer “IOU” moments. After all, when the cost of visiting a place is minimized, your ability to explore it is maximized.

Theatre-goers waiting to see a hit show at London's Palace Theatre include travelers on a budget who saved money by staying in university vacation accommodation. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

When you save on a room, you can splurge on a must-see show.
© Joyce McGreevy

Do the Travel Math

Now I know what you’re thinking: I may be traveling on a budget, but I don’t do hostels.

In fact, most university vacation-accommodation is private. Your only roommates—should you so choose—will be your Significant Other. (Or “Otherettes.” Kids are welcome at most colleges.)

Need another reason for staying in dorms? How about hundreds? Daily rates for dorm rooms start at $35-$45 per guest. Suddenly, the world’s most expensive cities become affordable.

Consider Yourself at Home

Booking a college dorm room nets you a surprising number of extras. Typically, these include:

  • Central locations in cities around the world
  • Free wifi
  • Breakfast included, or nominally priced
  • On-site laundry facilities, so you can pack light
  • Fully-stocked kitchens—one or more per floor
  • Common rooms with TV, books, and games
  • Depending on location, access to a swimming pool or gym

All at a fraction of what most home-shares and budget hotels charge. That’s especially helpful in fiendishly expensive cities, where “budget” can mean a whole lot of Dismal at very little Discount.

Colleges give solo travelers opportunities to socialize with locals and international visitors. Some give you access to libraries, special events, and lectures. Aptly, you’ll learn a lot, and save a scholarship’s worth to satisfy future wanderlust.

A dorm room overlooking Coram's Fields, London lets travelers on a budget indulge their wanderlust. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

(Dorm) room with a view, overlooking Coram’s Fields in central London.
© Joyce McGreevy

Basics, Baths, and Beyond

While college exteriors reflect the style of local architecture, interiors emphasize function. These are student residences, so don’t expect lush carpeting or fine furniture. What you get is a room to yourself, a bed, towels, toiletries, and ample storage space.

Few rooms have TV. But who travels to stare at the tube? With some exceptions, bathrooms are “down the hall.” Yes, you’ll have privacy. No, I’ve never had to wait for a shower or been left with cold water.

A bargain for solo travelers, dorm rooms get even cheaper per person if you’re rooming with friends or family. Choose from singles to quadruples, depending on your group. All beds are twins.

A dorm room snack in London lets travelers on a budget indulge their wanderlust. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Dorm room decor for digital nomads.
© Joyce McGreevy

All I Want Is a Room Somewhere

For some, the setup may be too Spartan. If you require lavish suites and chocolates atop pillows, look elsewhere—and bring your inheritance, darling.

Me, I like having a desk to write at and a bookshelf to fill with works by local authors. (I donate them to the students’ common room afterward.) As for chocolates, I’ll happily supply my own.

The student dining hall at Goodenough College, London helps travelers on a budget indulge their wanderlust. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

This stately dining hall serves excellent fare at student-friendly prices.
© Joyce McGreevy

Global School Field Trips

You’ll find college dorm rooms in cities all over Europe and Canada, plus parts of Australia, New Zealand, and South America.

To give you an idea of options, I’ve focused on London, where I’m a proud non-alumnus of London School of Economics (LSE) and University College London (UCL). Both learning institutions offer multiple sites in superb locations.

William Goodenough House welcomes dorm-room travelers on a budget and makes wanderlust affordable. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Sunny daffodils welcome dorm room travelers to Goodenough College, London.
© Joyce McGreevy

Best College Name Ever?

And then there’s Goodenough College.

Yes, that’s really its name. If I owned a car, the fictitious bumper sticker would say, “My average child did just fine at Goodenough College.”

Goodenough College is actually rather splendid. Situated in Bloomsbury, Goodenough’s moderately pricier dorms take things up a notch. Most dorm rooms, for example, have bathrooms en suite, and some dorms are spacious, with parlors, bay windows, and other stylish features.

For scholars who love to travel (and skeptics of “staying in dorms”), Goodenough College offers “Nerdvana.”

Many dorms overlook beautiful gardens. On-site pubs, a café, and dining hall offer excellent fare at modest cost. Concerts and lectures are often open to visitors.

With the best of London in walking distance, Goodenough earns “extra credit”—and won’t dent your credit card. Visit the School of Life on Marchmont Street, just 5 minutes away, or explore history and art with locals and others at London CultureSeekers.

The quad at Goodenough College, London greets A dorm room at Carr-Saunders Hall, London satisfies the wanderlust of world travelers on budgets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A corner of the quad at Goodenough College, London.
© Joyce McGreevy

Homework Has Its Rewards

Staying in dorms isn’t for everyone. But for travelers on a budget, university vacation-accommodation offers a rich cultural experience without the sticker shock. Support your wanderlust, not your creditors. Do the travel math, study your options, and let the world “class” travel begin!

To search university rooms by country, start here.

To focus on London, search Goodenough, UCL, and LSE.

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Little London

by Joyce McGreevy on September 26, 2016

Entrance down into The Wonderpass, a mini-museum in a street underpass, showcases London details that offer travel inspiration. ( © Joyce McGreevy)

To truly appreciate London, get down into the details.
© Joyce McGreevy

Travel Inspiration: Details That Delight

You’re watching an American TV show when the location segues to London. Yup, there it is again—ye olde stock footage of Big Ben. So much for London in close-up.

By the logic of TV, Londoners from all 33 boroughs enjoy unobstructed views of this English landmark, the better to set their watches.  Never mind that Big Ben refers to the great bell housed inside the Elizabeth Tower.

Gold railings in Little Venice Maida Vale are London details that offer travel inspiration. (© Joyce McGreevy)

Gold railings along Little Venice Canal in London’s Maida Vale.
© Joyce McGreevy

Travel guides often present London as a checklist of iconic attractions–Buckingham Palace, the Tower Bridge, the Millennium Eye. Yet for 30 million annual visitors, it’s the London details that form our enduring impressions.

Oh, I see:  In the sweet-shop of travel inspiration, London is packed with tasty “allsorts.” Here’s a sampler of London details to savor:

1. Fascinating street names

A street sign for Bird in Hand Yard is one of the London details that offer travel inspiration. (@ Joyce McGreevy)

Presumably worth two in the bush, this London street is named for a former pub.
© Joyce McGreevy

Favorites among London’s 20,000 streets include: Man in Moon Passage, Crooked Usage, Ogle Street, Batman Close, and Ha-Ha Road. Technically, “ha-ha” refers to hedges and a batman is a cricketer, but still.

Don’t forget Pudding Lane. Or perhaps do, since “pudding” in the 1600s referred to animal guts that were tossed from butcher-shop windows onto the streets below.

2. Not-always-so-historical plaques

A Sherlock Holmes-themed sign at a dry-cleaners is one of many London details that offer travel inspiration. (© Joyce McGreevy)

Dry humor at its best pressed.
© Joyce McGreevy

London-born actor Benedict Timothy Carlton Cumberbatch (try saying THAT five times fast) is synonymous with another famous Londoner, the legendary detective Sherlock Holmes.

Could this plaque signify the designated drop-off for Cumberbatch’s britches and cummerbunds? Doubtful, but it’s eminently worth pondering.

3. Games afoot!

So popular is the BBC television series “Sherlock” that the Sherlock Holmes Museum at 221b Baker Street draws constant crowds.

Don’t fancy languishing in line? Then follow the literary clues on foot. Pop round to the Criterion Restaurant, where Dr. Watson first hears that Holmes is “looking to share lodgings.” Stroll through the Langham Hotel, named in “The Sign of Four.” See the Opera House, one of Holmes’ favorite haunts.

Hats, a pipe, and magnifying glass at the Sherlock Holmes Museum are London details and a travel inspiration. (© Joyce McGreevy)

Grab your hat and follow Holmes on foot.
© Joyce McGreevy

Or go all modern by visiting locations from the BBC series. You can even get your London details direct from Holmes’ nemesis—albeit by text message—if you sign up for Moriarty’s Game. It’s a creative way to explore hidden London while solving a mystery with fellow sleuths.

4. Windowsill whimsy

Why limit your décor to inside the flat? Despite googling the World’s Silliest Search Terms, I’ve no idea why there are frogs on this central London windowsill.

An English windowsill with two ceramic frogs on it, both delightful London details that are a travel inspiration. showcases whimsical London in close-up. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

When toad-in-the-hole becomes frogs-on-the-sill.
© Joyce McGreevy

5. Places to “potter about”

Potterheads flock to King’s Cross Station to find a sign labeled Platform 9¾ and a baggage trolley submerged in a wall. But for truly immersive magic, visit Leadenhall Market.

The location for Diagon Alley scenes in the Harry Potter films is just as enchanting in its everyday guise. As local Muggles go about their business, let your imagination summon up wizarding charms.

Leadenhall Market is among the must-see London details that offer travel inspiration to Harry Potter fans. (© Joyce McGreevy)

Does this Victorian galleria look familiar?
© Joyce McGreevy

6. Museums under sidewalks

Design firm London Sing transformed a bleak underpass in Marylebone into The Wonderpass, a free must-see mini-museum. Step down to discover London in close-up.

A diorama in The Wonderpass, a mini-museum in a street underpass, is one of the London details that are a travel inspiration. (© Joyce McGreevy)

A diorama in London’s Wonderpass.
© Joyce McGreevy

A diorama of Regent Park Open Air Theatre exemplifies the travel inspiration of London details. (© Joyce McGreevy)

A doll-size peek into Regent Park Theatre.
© Joyce McGreevy

7. Afternoon tea

To avoid shocking Dowager Countesses, never, ever call it “high tea.”  That’s an entirely different meal, associated with humbler, heartier fare. (Think meat, cheese, and other savories laid out by Mrs. Patmore for Downton Abbey’s staff.)

A costumed writer for OIC Moments clarifies London details that make afternoon tea a travel inspiration. (© Joyce McGreevy)

Important disclaimer: One is not actually a Dowager Countess,
nor does one play one on “the telly.”
© Joyce McGreevy

Credit for the more formal “afternoon tea” goes to the Duchess of Bedford. Around 1840, she visited the Fifth Duke of Rutland at Belvoir Castle, where the fashionably late dinner hour left guests peckish. Her discreet suggestion for bridging the gap became a national habit.

Today U.S. visitors pay a duke’s ransom to sip afternoon tea in hotels populated mainly by their fellow Americans. For twice the charm at half the cost, try local favorite Bea’s Cake Boutique. Or splurge while dodging stodginess at sketch in Mayfair.

8. Or do as the English do and . . .

Drink coffee! Tea consumption in the UK has fallen by 60 percent since the 1970s, but coffee has percolated up to boiling point. Britons now drink 70 million cups of coffee daily.

Customers at Bloomsbury Coffee House share the travel inspiration of London details. (© Joyce McGreevy)

By 1633, there were already 85 coffee houses in London.
© Joyce McGreevy

9. Pillar boxes and postal puzzles

You can still find red pillar post boxes  dating back to 1853 all over the city. There’s surprising variety among the designs.

 A 19th century red postal pillar is one of the London details that have become a travel inspiration. (© Joyce McGreevy)

When you absolutely, positively have to send it next Thursday.
© Joyce McGreevy

Over time, Britons “have found ways to play with their post.” So say the founders of the Postal Museum. The first major new museum in London in over a decade is sealed until 2017, but visit its website posthaste for special delivery of fascinating finds.

A Victorian-era pictogram envelope from The Postal Museum exemplifies London details that offer travel inspiration.

To deliver this letter, the postman had to unscramble the words Greenstone House on the envelope.

10. Your own personal London

London in close-up is the world’s most renewable source of travel inspiration. As novelist Walter Besant wrote, “I’ve been walking about London for the last 30 years, and I find something fresh in it every day.”

Now recall your own personal London, whether it’s based on life, literature, or your favorite British video. What London details inspire you?

An interaction between a waiter, a dog, and a customer exemplifies the travel inspiration of London details. (© Joyce McGreevy)

Small treats add big charm to London’s Primrose Hill neighborhood.
© Joyce McGreevy

See guides to coffee and afternoon tea that really stir things up.

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