Travelers can learn much from the Buddhism of Myanmar
© Meredith Mullins

A Traveler’s View of the Buddhism of Myanmar

Not long ago, a crowd of tourists stood mid-street, jostling to claim the best photographic position as more than 1000 monks walked reverently in their procession for food and alms.

This exceptional experience takes place every morning at the Myanmar Mahagandayon Monastery, just south of Mandalay, as the monks prepare to receive their second (and final) meal of the day, which they must eat before noon. The maroon-robed devotees are humble. Their purpose pure.

Locals line the path, ready to give rice to the Mahagandayon monks.
© Meredith Mullins

This day, two obnoxiously serious (or seriously obnoxious?) photographers elbowed each other for the best position. The monks were forced to walk around them.

The photographic elbowing turned to shoving. The shoving turned into a fist fight.

The monks focus on their walk, attempting to ignore distractions.
© Meredith Mullins

Some of the monks broke ranks and tried to restore peace, but the visitors kept fighting. Finally, the police arrived.

The sacred moment had been shattered in the worst possible way. Common decency had been abandoned. A lesson in cultural taboos was there for all to see.

A local woman gives rice to young monks in a more natural moment of alms gathering
in Bagan, Myanmar. No throngs of tourists.
© Meredith Mullins

A Sacred Trust

Mahagandayon is the largest monastery and Buddhist education center in Myanmar. This solemn daily procession should be a moment of quiet reverence and introspection. Instead, it had become a nightmare of tourism (including people trying to take selfies with the monks).

Peaceful daily life at the Mahagandayon Monastery
© Meredith Mullins

After the “aggressive photographer” altercation, barricades were established at Mahagandayon so the monks could walk their path uninterrupted. Cameras were banned (although smart phones are allowed).

A solemn procession of monks and a barricaded crowd full of smart phones
(including mine I must admit).
© Meredith Mullins

The crowds still come in droves. They line the sidewalk and thrust their phones into the street. Some still use cameras although the posted signs are clear. The monks walk on.

This daily event—that now falls somewhere between a Disney parade and a zoo-like example of dehumanization—raises the question of how to show respect for a culture . . . and for the religious traditions of a country.

It also asks the question of why do the monasteries and temples continue to allow tourists.

The answers are complex.

Monasteries welcome visitors to show how meditation and study are an integral part of Buddhism.
© Meredith Mullins

In general, monasteries and temples welcome visitors. It’s part of the generous spirit of Buddhism.

The monks or nuns can offer a glimpse into the world of their religion so that there is a better understanding of the philosophies and practices. Also, the monasteries rely on donations from the lay community for their very survival.

Most of the people of Myanmar spend at least some time in a monastery—as a way to ensure a good education, to have food and shelter that might not be available to them due to economic circumstances, and to see if being a monk or nun is a good fit for their life path.

Monasteries offer education, food, shelter, and religious guidance to all who come.
© Meredith Mullins

The questions for travelers are these . . . How can we experience these kinds of special moments (with or without cameras)? How can we record the highlights for our visual memory, but be unobtrusive and respectful in doing so.  And . . . is it really necessary to record every moment of a journey?

The way we answer these questions is at the heart of the travel experience.

The person-to-person purity of the Buddhist travel experience
© Meredith Mullins

The Honorable Traveler: Cultural Etiquette

When stepping into another culture as a visitor, good travel etiquette dictates knowing the rules and being as respectful as possible.

There is no shortage of signage reminding visitors of the rules of respect.
© Meredith Mullins

For Theravada Buddhism in Myanmar, here are some guidelines:

• As with any religious place, whether a tourist attraction or not, common elements of respect prevail. Turn off mobile phones. Lower your voice. Don’t smoke or chew gum.

Experience the peace of the temples and monasteries in your own quiet way.
(Shwenandaw Monastery in Mandalay)
© Meredith Mullins

• Wear appropriate clothing (cover bare arms and legs to at least the knees, remove hats). This may be challenging for visitors who dress to beat the heat; but, often the temples will provide special clothing for you so that you can meet these guidelines of modesty.

• Take off your shoes before entering a temple, and, in Myanmar, your socks also.

Don’t be afraid to remove shoes and socks. The temple floors are kept quite clean.
© Meredith Mullins

• Don’t disturb people in prayer or meditation in the temples.
• Don’t touch, sit near, or climb on a Buddha statue or the platform it sits on. Don’t pose with a Buddha statue for a selfie.

Tempting as it may be, don’t pose with a statue of Buddha.
(One of the four gold buddha statues at the Ananda Temple in Bagan.)
© Meredith Mullins

• Don’t sit with your feet pointed at a Buddha or a person. Feet are seen as the unholiest part of the body.
• Don’t touch a monk or a monk’s robe.
• Don’t point at things with your index finger.
• Donate to the temple or monastery when possible. These donations help to augment the often meager operating budgets. Even a small amount will be appreciated.
• Don’t buy Buddha statues just for decoration or as souvenirs. They should be objects of worship.

Buddha statues aren’t souvenirs. They are for worship only.
© Meredith Mullins

• Don’t get a Buddha tattoo—disrespectful on so many levels. (There are examples of arrests in Myanmar of people who had visible Buddha tattoos, especially on the leg, since lower body parts are considered less clean.)
• You don’t need to be Buddhist to pay respect to Buddha. It is polite to place your hands together in a praying position when passing Buddha.
• Be thoughtful when making photographs. Ask permission of people when possible.
• Follow the guidance of the head of a monastery or nunnery. The monks or novices should be treated with respect (especially if you’re photographing). Some of the novices are just children who want to have moments of play. But the work of education is serious, and should be shown as such.

Myanmar has laws against “insulting religion” or “hurting religious feelings.”

Sometimes the best experience is discovered on some dusty road . . . into the past. (Bagan)
© Meredith Mullins

Beyond the Guidelines: “Oh, I See” Moments

A better way to experience the culture is to go to the less-traveled monasteries, schools, and temples.

Get permission of the head monk, guru, priest, or abbot/abbess; talk with the monks or nuns; make a connection; learn about the culture; and make a donation to help support their future. Become part of the natural rhythms.

On my recent visit to Myanmar, there were many memorable moments (and special photographs) at these nontourist destinations.

We were given a chanted blessing at this nunnery in Mandalay that we will
remember for a long time.
© Meredith Mullins

There are, of course, underlying political issues as well as past and recent historical events that run deeper than these simple rules of cultural etiquette. But, it is important to remember that Buddhism is at the center of the Myanmar/Burmese national identity.

A moment of reverent study
© Meredith Mullins

Knowing the cultural traditions and taboos and showing respect is the responsibility of the honorable traveler and opens the door to deeper personal understanding, as well as memorable adventures.

Kyay Zuu Tin Par Tal (ကျေးဇူးတင်ပါတယ်), Myanmar.

Opening a door to personal understanding
(Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon)
© Meredith Mullins

Thank you to Hanuman Travel, a Cambodian based travel company, and to our extraordinary guide Sai Thant Zin Phyo. The trip was organized by Richard Murai and the nonprofit Center for Photographic Art.

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