Jan

London, Lost and Foundling

by Joyce McGreevy on January 20, 2020

An array of silver charms seen on Marchmont Street are evocative markers of Britain’s past, inspired by historical tokens at London’s Foundling Museum. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

I spotted one—then several—fascinating artifacts in the pavement. What were they?
© Joyce McGreevy

Historical Markers Lead to Fascinating Discoveries

I’d walked along Marchmont Street often yet never noticed them—small, mysterious objects embedded in the pavement. Unlike London’s “blue plaques,” historical markers at eye level that link figures of the past with buildings of the present, the Marchmont Street objects were easy to overlook.

On Marchmont Street, London a token embedded into the pavement becomes an historical marker for those with the focus to spot it. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Some historical markers hide in plain sight.
© Joyce McGreevy

Here was public art at its least public, eloquent objects underfoot, shyly waiting to be seen and heard. Yet they, too, were historical markers, clues to a poignant chapter of London’s past.

A metal object embedded in the pavement on Marchmont Street marks a poignant chapter of London’s history. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Who had set this into the pavement? And why?
© Joyce McGreevy

Shining a Light on History

Marchmont is one of my favorite London streets, a place of bookshops, cafés, art house cinemas and pocket parks. Of its history, I knew that it was named for an earl, and that he’d been governor of Britain’s first charity organization for children—a home for “foundlings,” as abandoned infants were referred to long ago.

As for the mysterious objects, I’d never noticed them until that morning, when a glint of sunlight on rain-washed pavement caught my eye.

A heart shaped silver token on a London Street is an historical marker and a symbol of the parent-child bond. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

I wondered whose initials these could be.
© Joyce McGreevy

There they were, a scattering of silver tokens. What could these fascinating artifacts mean? I had to find out.

A silver token engraved with a name and birth date and found on a London street becomes an historical marker, prompting the author’s visit to the Foundling Museum. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Why did I sense an urgency about the recording of
this name and birth date?
© Joyce McGreevy

Tokens of Affection

Created by artist John Aldus in 2006, each token represents the bond between parent and child. In the London of the 1700s, that bond was tested to the breaking point as extreme poverty forced countless women to separate from their children.

According to one historian, mothers who relinquished infants to the care of a nearby “hospital” (a term used broadly then) were urged to “affix on each child some . . . distinguishing mark or token, so that the children may be known hereafter, if necessary.”

It might be a heart or a locket, a brooch or a humble bottle tag. Each token signified the hope of reunion.

Where had the children gone? As historical markers, the tokens pointed the way—to the Foundling Hospital, just around the corner.

London’s Foundling Museum, the former Foundling Hospital, contains poignant treasures and surprising historical discoveries. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At what is now the Foundling Museum, the original tokens are still on display.
© Joyce McGreevy

Following the Clues

In its time the Hospital had been a place of hope. Prior to 1739, abandonment was rampant and often fatal. Parishes were overwhelmed and some refused to help children labeled “illegitimate.”

Thomas Coram, a ship captain who’d calmly weathered the traumas of life at sea, was stunned to see children dying in the London streets. For 17 years, Coram campaigned to create a refuge, convincing Marchmont and other prominent Londoners to offer support.

A historical marker tells the story of British sea captain Thomas Coram, who campaigned to create London’s first charity for children, overcoming widespread prejudice about children born into poverty or outside of marriage. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

While a statue of Coram gave few clues to his character,
this historical marker revealed his compassion.
© Joyce McGreevy

Surprising Discoveries

Something I hadn’t expected to see at the former hospital was a collection of priceless paintings. How did they relate to the practical needs of at-risk children? Historical markers solved the mystery.

In 1739 as the Hospital began welcoming children, portraitist William Hogarth found the perfect way to raise public awareness of the charity—he donated several masterpieces and convinced artists like Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough to do the same.

The Foundling Hospital became London’s first public art gallery, a place where people could gather while supporting a worthy cause. Hogarth the great painter had also proved a genius at PR.

A Rousing Chorus of Support

Soon afterward, Hogarth asked a musician friend for a favor. Little did either man guess that it would change history. In 1742, the musician’s latest work had received dismissive reviews at its London debut. Hogarth asked his friend—George Frederic Handel—to try again, this time at the Foundling Hospital.

Buoyed by a rousing Hallelujah chorus, the new, improved performance of Handel’s “Messiah” was a phenomenal success. So many people wanted to see it that performances had to be added and it raised a fortune for the children’s charity. Instead of fading into obscurity as Handel had feared, it became Great Britain’s most beloved choral work.

A London choir evokes the historical connection between Handel’s Messiah and the first British charity for children, Thomas Coram’s Foundling Hospital. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A London choir’s song has a surprising connection to the Foundling Hospital.
© Joyce McGreevy

One More Surprise in Store

As I left the museum, a volunteer told me to keep an eye out for another historical marker, just up the street. I soon found out why.

An historical marker, one of London’s blue plaques, identifies Charles Dickens’ home on Doughty Street near the Foundling Hospital, a charity that influenced his novel Oliver Twist. (public domain image by Wally Gobetz)

Did this “betoken” one more connection?
© Wally Gobetz/CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

In 1837 author Charles Dickens moved to nearby Doughty Street, taking regular walks through the Hospital grounds. Dickens was so moved by accounts of “good Captain Coram’s heart” that he raised funds for the children’s charity organization and wrote about it in his most famous works. In Dickens’ novel Oliver Twist, the orphaned Oliver’s true identity hinges on the discovery of . . . a token.

A silver token engraved with a flower gathers moss on Marchmont Street, a marker of history, unnoticed by most passersby. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

I had come full circle, back to the tokens of Marchmont Street.
© Joyce McGreevy

Today Is Historically Remarkable

Coram, as the children’s charity organization is known today, has expanded as its goals have evolved. They now include upholding children’s rights and empowering parents to provide a loving, secure environment to their child. The former Foundling Hospital has become a place to celebrate the power of individuals and the arts to change lives.

Oh, I see: When you follow historical markers into the past, you make important discoveries about the present. Which might just inspire you to contribute to making a better future.

See some of the original tokens here. (Scroll down.)

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Joyce McGreevy 3 Comments

Cultural Symbols/Discoveries/England/On Foot/Travels to the Past

Jan

A New Year’s Resolution for Notre Dame

by Meredith Mullins on January 13, 2020

Savoring the moment (two days before the heartbreaking Notre Dame fire).
© Meredith Mullins

Restoration of an Iconic Paris Cultural Symbol

Renew. Restore. Revitalize. Renovate. Refresh. Rejuvenate. Rebuild.

The new year invites certain words into our sphere of action, as we concentrate on new beginnings and life-changing resolutions.

This focus is particularly timely for the monumental restoration project of the fire-damaged Notre Dame Cathedral—a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and a historic cultural symbol for Paris, France, and the world. No matter what religion or spiritual beliefs are personally held, Notre Dame touches people’s souls.

Through rain and snow and gloom of night . . . Notre Dame has survived more than 850 years of challenges. There is hope for the future.
© Meredith Mullins

Living Near An Icon

I live a few minutes from this revered icon and pass it at least once a day. It has never—ever—been just part of the scenery. I always pause—to look. The “Oh, I see” moments are too many to count.

I am inspired by its grandeur—the articulated carvings, the ingenuity of the flying buttresses, and the reflections on the night-time Seine.

Reflections on the Seine
© Meredith Mullins

I marvel at the rose windows, beautiful from inside and out. I pay humble tribute to the wild and weird gargoyles and chimeras, keeping evil at bay. I am in sync with the melodies of the bells.

One of the guardian chimeras, protecting the cathedral against evil
© Meredith Mullins

Sadly, the view and the sounds have now changed dramatically.

This most visited monument in Europe was devoured by fire on April 15, 2019, as Parisians and the world watched in horror.

The devastating fire of April 15, 2019
© Mervyn Rothstein

First, there were plumes of smoke. Then, skyward flames as the medieval dry oak beams, called “the forest,” ignited like kindling. And when the classic spire wobbled and then crashed into the nave below, there was universal heartbreak.

The pompiers (firefighters) were fearless in controlling the spread of the fire, a task that at times seemed hopeless, but in the end saved the rose windows, the grand organ, and the tower bells.

Firefighters battled the blaze through the night.
© Mervyn Rothstein

The first responders and city and church officials were also quick in their rescue of art objects and priceless treasures, such as the Crown of Thorns and the 13^th century tunic worn by St Louis (Louis IX, King of France).

Now, nine months later, a renaissance is in progress. French President Macron vowed immediately after the fire, “We will rebuild.” And, almost as quickly, donations totalling more than $1 billion came pouring in, from more than 350,000 donors—French billionaires as well as people from around the world who made small contributions, just wanting to help.

Progress on the restoration
© Meredith Mullins

Macron committed to a restoration timetable of five years that some believe was too ambitious given Notre Dame’s history.

After all, its initial construction took nearly 200 years, and it has undergone various complex multi-year renovations since its origin, including a massive restoration of the western façade and the addition of the (now toppled) lead and wood spire in the mid-1800s by the 30-something architect Viollet-le-Duc and his work partner Lassus.

The debate continues about how the replacement for Viollet-le-Duc’s 1850s
spire should be designed.
© Meredith Mullins

What Can We See?

As you walk around the cathedral now, you can still feel its mass and magnitude, as well as its fragility. The church is blocked by fences and barricades. Several cranes rise high in the sky.

There is exterior work that shows some of the steps that have been taken. However, most of the activity is hidden from view.

New scaffolding and netting reinforce the structural weaknesses
and prevent damage by falling limestone.
© Meredith Mullins

Inside, robots work tirelessly to clean debris from the center of the cathedral. The structure is too fragile and dangerous for human movement.

The debris is moved to the tents set up in the courtyard in front of Notre Dame where each piece is catalogued by scientists before it is transferred to laboratories for further analysis of the materials.

A break in the barricade allows for photos of the western facade.
© Meredith Mullins

Critical Next Steps

The work to date has been careful and well-researched. Progress has been made in the cleaning process (especially addressing the lead contamination that occurred in and around the cathedral).

The rose windows will be cleaned and restored to their original positions.
© Meredith Mullins

Efforts have also focused on the removal of items for restoration (such as the windows and statues), the cataloguing and analysis of materials, the reinforcement of parts of the exterior structure (such as the flying buttresses), and the preparation for work in the coming months that will analyze the strength of the remaining structure.

The flying buttresses and Apse area of the cathedral have been reinforced.
© Meredith Mullins

The most critical step is the removal of the metal scaffolding that surrounded the spire at the time of the fire. (A spire restoration project was in process.)

This now-tangled, melted mass must be removed piece by piece, without jeopardizing the incredibly fragile underlying structure. This phase will begin early in 2020.

The critical next step is to remove the damaged central scaffolding
that surrounded the now fallen spire.
© Meredith Mullins

Once the scaffolding is removed, workers will be able to access the stone vaulted ceilings to complete the full diagnosis of the structural integrity and plan the next steps of restoration.

Should Notre Dame be rebuilt exactly as it was . . . or should it be “reimagined”
with a more contemporary look?
© Meredith Mullins

Looking To the Future

How will the restored and revitalized Notre Dame look? The debate lingers. Should it be rebuilt just as it was, or should a contemporary innovation be added, using modern materials and building techniques? Should the roof and spire be reconstructed . . . or reimagined?

The politics have yet to be sorted out, with legislation differing between the Senate and the National Assembly.

In the interim, architectural firms and designers are submitting ideas, from a rooftop swimming pool, to a stained glass roof and spire, to a greenhouse sanctuary, to an all-crystal approach.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxfjNfhBEpM/?hl=en

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxfTQrrAjcP/

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

Some architects have proposed a spire that is similar to the Senate’s desire to maintain the look of “its last known visual state” but have been creative in their suggestion of materials (stained glass, recycled ocean plastic, copper, stainless steel, or crystal).

If video does not display, watch it here.

The French Prime Minister proposed an architectural competition shortly after the fire, but this idea may be over-ruled by legislation.

However, one unofficial competition, organized by GoArchitect, has been completed, with an elegant design by two Chinese architects. The design features a mirrored roof and spire that reflect the surroundings in a kaleidoscopic effect.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0r2QZhIwk0/?hl=en

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

Whatever the outcome of the politics and of the project administration by a general, an architect, and an archbishop, who, no doubt, will sometimes have differing views, the restored Notre Dame Cathedral will be a confirmation of history’s will to survive and will be a tribute to the preservation of the past integrated with a vision of the future.

A cultural symbol of the past, present, and future
© Meredith Mullins

Hopefully, this iconic Paris cultural symbol will continue to inspire the admiration of the world and to elicit poetic descriptions like that of Victor Hugo—“Notre Dame—a symphony in stone.”

Tributes to Notre Dame Cathedral in many forms
© Meredith Mullins

Thank you to the city of Paris and Patrick Zachmann of Magnum Photos for the exhibit presented on the north side of the cathedral.

Instagrams courtesy of The Guardian and Go Architect.

Additional resources from Smithsonian Magazine and Global Times.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Meredith Mullins 2 Comments

Cultural Symbols/France/France (Paris)

Oct

Is Paris Disappearing?

by Meredith Mullins on October 7, 2019

Let’s not lose the magic of Paris life.
© Meredith Mullins

Change Comes to Four Cultural Icons

“Panta Rhei” wrote the Greek philosopher Heraclitus. “Life is flux.”

This prescient philosophy, from more than 2000 years ago, is more commonly known as “Change is the only constant.” A truth in 500 BCE and a truth today.

In a city like Paris, the process of change can affect the visible cityscape, as well as its cultural icons. We are the witnesses as we go about our daily rhythms of sitting in our beloved cafés, taking the bus, getting the news, and, yes, finding a restroom.

In quotidian life, we face the modern renditions of places that were once part of the cultural heritage of Paris—transitions from the past to the future.

I feel nostalgia for bygone eras, even as I continue to walk on cobblestone streets and admire the buildings and bridges of past centuries.

And that makes me ask, “Is Paris disappearing?”—a question worth contemplating as I sit for a while in a sidewalk café.

Leisurely Café Sitting or Fast Food?

Paris is not Paris without its iconic cafés. Parisians and visitors will never give up sitting on the rattan chairs, sipping an espresso or verre de vin, and watching the passing parade or talking with friends. Café sitting is the ultimate way to embrace a slower pace of life.

However, it is easy to notice that fast food has taken hold in the City of Light. From McDonald’s to Subway to Chipotle to Bagelstein to Burger King to Starbucks, a different kind of cuisine and culture is gaining popularity. It seems that some folks cannot get enough of America’s fast-paced habits.

The McCafé is not quite the same as the classic sidewalk gems.

Thank goodness, President Macron has recently allocated funds to keep the traditional cafés alive. It would be sad to see these testaments to the spirit of community disappear.

A Bus Stop is a Bus Stop is a Bus Stop . . . Not

The Paris bus stops are a welcome sight, some so conveniently close to each other that you can see the next one from the one you’re standing in.

But, as with many things, modernization came to the Paris bus stops. In 2015, the shelters were converted to a futuristic design, complete with streamlined roof (some with solar panels and some with planted greenery), charger stations, and a goal of energy efficiency.

In addition, the city added exterior signposts that indicate the buses that serve the stop and show how many minutes until the next bus. You know from a distance whether you have to pick up the pace or be prepared for some Godot-like waiting. The signs are illuminated at night, which makes them easy to see.

Form did not exactly follow function, however, as the new roof design does not protect bus patrons from the elements. You can get rained on, snowed on, or gusted by wind.

The old bus stops were a homey little cocoon with three sides—such an inviting shelter that many a vagabond called them “home.”

The city promotes the new “open” design, however, as more accessible for people with prams and for people with disabilities.

There’s more to come. The “Bus Stop of the Future” is in development. As new “community spaces,” these shelters will offer bus ticket sales, coffee, music, book borrowing, information on the neighborhood, bike rentals, and more. The RATP (Paris Transportation Administration) will begin to introduce these structures soon.

All the News that Fits

The newspaper kiosks of Paris are legendary. The dark green color and the carved metallic dome with a delicate spire make us sure we are in Paris (or, at least, watching a Paris film). Newspapers, magazines, and postcards burst forth from the tiny doors and spill onto the street.

Where else but here would you buy your Le Monde for the day’s news or your L’Officiel des Spectacles for all the events in Paris for the week.

Now, one by one, these traditional kiosks are being replaced by structures made of recycled glass and aluminum. The green color is similar to the legendary green, but the domes are a thing of the past, leading critics to call the new design a soulless “sardine can.”

The change is primarily to improve the working conditions of the news vendors and to allow more walk-in space for the patrons.

The structure can be heated. The enclosed space protects the vendor (and the merchandise) from the elements. It’s more like a shop, with shelves, so vendors don’t have to unpack their magazines and papers every day and repack them at night when they leave.

Many of the kiosks will have refrigerators so they can sell cold drinks, and some will have bathrooms for the vendors.

What will happen to the old kiosks? You can buy one if you want to own a little bit of Paris. Contact edouard.rayer@mediakiosk.fr for details.

It’s also nice to know that a few of the old-style kiosks will remain in place—preserved for history (and for filmmakers and tourists seeking selfies).

The Last Pissotière

Paris is famous for its elegance and style, but it must also be noted for the practical transition that has taken place in the development of public restrooms.

For many years, the public pissotières were a staple on the streets and boulevards, from three-stall rotundas to monolithic solo spaces. All were deftly designed to ensure the privacy of key body parts.

They were as much a part of the Paris landscape as the cafés and news kiosks. (Women, of course, were more discreet, using the toilettes in cafés.)

Now, the pissotières have been replaced by stainless steel ovals, with a forceful gush of water to clean them after each use. They are omnipresent (and free) . . . and a bit frightening if you have a fear of being flushed into oblivion.

The last pissotière on the rue Arago is the lone survivor, a functioning, gurgling reminder of a bygone era.

The Future of Change

More Paris changes are coming, especially as the city prepares for the 2024 Olympics. But, as some of the critics of past and present cultural changes have voiced: The city needs progress but also needs “guardians of the spirit of Paris of days past.” A disappearing Paris, erasing history and customs, is not the goal.

My “Oh, I See” moment: Let’s move forward, but let’s treasure the past and those cultural icons that are rooted deeply in heritage and customs.

Vive les cafés, les kiosks, les arrêts d’autobus, et la dernière pissotière.

Thank you to MessyNessyChic for information about how to buy a news kiosk.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Meredith Mullins 8 Comments

Cultural Heritage & Traditions/Cultural Symbols/France (Paris)

World Views:

Topics

Category Archives: Cultural Symbols

London, Lost and Foundling

Historical Markers Lead to Fascinating Discoveries

Shining a Light on History

Tokens of Affection

Following the Clues

Surprising Discoveries

A Rousing Chorus of Support

One More Surprise in Store

Today Is Historically Remarkable

A New Year’s Resolution for Notre Dame

Restoration of an Iconic Paris Cultural Symbol

Living Near An Icon

What Can We See?

Critical Next Steps

Looking To the Future

Is Paris Disappearing?

Change Comes to Four Cultural Icons

Leisurely Café Sitting or Fast Food?

A Bus Stop is a Bus Stop is a Bus Stop . . . Not

All the News that Fits

The Last Pissotière

The Future of Change