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Travel Cultures Language

The Daring of the Green

by Joyce McGreevy on March 11, 2019

A man adjusting a dining room chandelier in Glendalough suggests that Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

From Glendalough (above) to Galway, cooks have cast Irish cuisine in a whole new light.

Irish Cuisine Turns the Tables on Culinary Stereotypes

St. Patrick’s Day is coming and you know what that means. It’s time for the Annual Feast of Culinary Stereotypes!

Once a year, sales of green food-dye soar in the U.S., evidenced by neon green bagels, chartreuse cupcakes, and acid-lime donuts. Meanwhile, Corned Beef and Cabbage (which originated in the U.S., not Ireland) will be dutifully served at Irish-themed parties.

Don’t  get me started about green beer and “shamrock” milkshakes. No wonder many people believe “Irish cuisine” is a contradiction in terms.

Forty Shades of Cuisine

But feast on this: To dine at one Michelin-starred or Bib Gourmand restaurant per day in Ireland, you’d need a 40-day vacation. You’d  travel from County Down in the North, along the Irish coast from Dublin to Cork to Galway, and across Ireland’s well-fed middle from Limerick to Kilkenny.

A woman gesturing toward a seafood platter in Howth shows that Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Grainne McMorrow and I share a feast of fish on Dublin’s Howth Peninsula.
© Joyce McGreevy

That’s just for starters. Because you needn’t carry loads of “green” to feast on great Irish cooking.

Oh, I see: Today’s Ireland is studded with culinary gems. From storied estates and castles to gastro-pubs, food trucks, and farmer’s markets, Ireland’s culinary renaissance offers something for every palate and budget.

A vegetable garden in Inish Beg Estate, Cork, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Inish Beg Estate, Co. Cork typifies a “growing” trend toward organic food production.
© Joyce McGreevy

Recipe for a Culinary Renaissance

Only a few decades ago,  critics had their knives out, suggesting there was nothing so bad on Irish menus that Irish cookery couldn’t make it worse. The Ireland of today is a trend-setter, thanks to a whole new recipe:

  1. Start with an island smaller than Indiana but bountiful in seafood, freshwater fish, and forage-able plants.
  2. Add economic prosperity and strong support for organic farming.
  3. Fire up keen interest in new ways of using traditional Irish ingredients.
  4. Stir in meticulous technique and bold experimentation.
  5. Season with cross-cultural inspiration.
  6. Serve in as many creative ways and settings as possible.
Poached eggs from Glebe Gardens, Co. Cork, suggest how Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Poached eggs at Glebe Gardens, Cork, make breakfast a culinary wake-up call.
© Joyce McGreevy

What’s on the Menu?

This year, ditch the green food-dye and treat yourself to a feast of today’s Irish flavors. Here’s a Travel Menu with options for home cooks:

A man cooking at home in Galway, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Home cooks in Ireland celebrate local and cross-cultural ingredients and techniques.
  © Joyce McGreevy

Starters:  In Ireland, where appetizers are called “starters,” the best starter is a food tour. No matter which part of Ireland you visit, there’s a food trail worth following.

Or go straight to Chapter One (18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin). Michelin’s review says: “Good old-fashioned Irish hospitality meets with modern Irish cooking in this stylish restaurant beneath the Writers Museum…Boldly flavored dishes showcase produce from local artisan producers.”

Home cook’s starter: Vodka-Cured Salmon with Avocado Cream, Pickled Vegetables, and Horseradish Mayonnaise (The New Irish Table: Recipes from Ireland’s Top Chefs, edited by Leslie Conron Carola; Charlesbridge Publishing, Inc., 2017)

Gourmet Grocery: Fallon & Byrne, Dublin, “offering the season’s good stuff from land and sea.”

A plate of smoked salmon and brown bread in Galway, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Carolyn McGreevy)

Wild smoked salmon with brown bread is the perfect St. Patrick’s Day appetizer.
© Carolyn McGreevy

Main course: Want the whole Irish enchildada? (Yes, Ireland’s reinvented enchiladas, too!) Take classes at Ballymaloe Cookery School, set on 300 acres of organic farmland in County Cork. Or head to Michelin-starred Loam in Galway for dishes like Lamb Shoulder, Turnip, and Damson fruit.

Home cook’s main course: Discover Allen’s marvelous take on traditional Shepherd’s Pie, made with roast duck and parsnips. Or savor Allen’s Wild Garlic & Potato Soup.

Gourmet Grocery: English Market, Cork City’s outstanding 18th century covered market.

Supper at The Piemaker, Galway, showcases Ireland's culinary renaissance. (Image © Carolyn McGreevy)

Diners line up for savories at The Piemaker, Galway.
© Carolyn McGreevy

Dessert: Feast your eyes on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, then thrill your taste buds with Murphy’s Ice Cream. Founded in Dingle, Murphy’s also chills in Galway and Dublin. Flavors range from Rainwater Sorbets and Caramelized Brown Bread to Honey Lavender and Candied Chili Pepper.

A dessert at Kai Cafe in Galway, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Rhubarb meets edible flowers at Kai Café in Galway.
© Joyce McGreevy

Home cook’s dessert: Bake a “dark and majestic” Guinness cake (from Clodagh’s Irish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Traditional Flavors, by Clodagh McKenna, Kyle Books, 2015).

Gourmet Grocery: McCambridge‘s, Galway, pleasing palates since 1934.

A baker and cake at Burren Cafe, Co. Clare show how Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A luscious black walnut cake at Burren Café favors taste over symmetry.
© Joyce McGreevy

Irish Cuisine Made Easy

Most U.S. grocers stock Irish soda bread, Kerrygold butter, Dublin cheddar, Irish tea, and other Celtic fare. Add  easy-peasy Roast Root Vegetables, with or without chicken or Limerick ham. Then settle in to watch Dare to Be Wild (Netflix), easily the most gorgeous Irish movie you’ll ever see.

A display of plates at a restaurant in Dublin, Ireland evokes the way Ireland’s culinary renaissance has dispelled stereotypes about Irish cuisine. (Image © Carolyn McGreevy)

The diversity of dishes in Ireland surprises first-time visitors.
© Carolyn McGreevy

You’ll be glad you skipped the culinary stereotypes and sampled today’s Irish cuisine.

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Raising Global Citizens

by Joyce McGreevy on November 28, 2018

Maria Surma Manka, Workation Woman, and her family of global citizens find inspiration as digital nomads Edinburgh, Scotland. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

At home-from-home in Edinburgh, Scotland: Joram, August, Baron, and Maria.
© Maria Surma Manka

When Mom and Dad Are Digital Nomads

Not all who wander as digital nomads are twentysomething, unmarried, and mortgage-free.  Some digital nomads live in rural Minnesota with lively kids and full-time jobs.

Just ask author and public-relations strategist Maria Surma Manka. She teaches parents across the U.S. how to live and work abroad as digital nomads while enriching—not uprooting—family life. No selling the house, homeschooling the kids, or ditching their day jobs.

It’s about expanding cultural awareness and creating wonderful family experiences while meeting everyday responsibilities.

The key to this family-style cultural immersion?  “Workations”—work + vacations.

At an airport, Maria Surma Manka and her family of digital nomads set off for a workation in London. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

London-bound: Maria’s book has numerous resources on how to talk with
your employer about working remotely.
© Maria Surma Manka

The idea, explains Maria, is to combine a love of travel with the stability of work. For Maria and husband Joram, the home-from-home travel began when sons August and Baron were two and five years old. That was five years and several countries ago.

At the time, Maria couldn’t find good resources to help guide a typical family on such an adventure. So, she developed the resources herself. The result is the highly practical book, Next-Level Digital Nomad: A guide to traveling and working from anywhere (even with kids and a day job).

The book Next-Level Digital Nomad by Maria Surma Manka, a.k.a. Workation Woman, is a guide to traveling and working from anywhere (even with kids and a day job). (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

Known to her followers as Workation Woman, Maria Surma Manka teaches parents how to
live abroad for several weeks or months without quitting their regular jobs.
© Maria Surma Manka

As insightful as it is delightful, Next-Level Digital Nomad covers such topics as getting schools and bosses on board, finding (and funding) where to live, securing safe childcare, and much more.

It’s also a cracking good read, an enlightening portrait of one family’s day-to-day life in Minnesota, Spain, New Zealand, Scotland, and England.

Maria Surma Manka’s son August discovers the joy of being a digital nomad at Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand, during a family workation. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

Small pleasures amid big adventures: Skipping stones at Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand.
© Maria Surma Manka

Have Kids, Will Travel

I recently spoke with Maria about the experience of immersing one’s family in the daily life of another culture. As someone who grew up traveling with seven siblings, I was particularly keen to know one thing: How does she respond to folks who postpone travel because they’re waiting for the kids to grow up?

Maria laughs warmly. Challenging assumptions is second nature to her.

“I would say, ‘Well then why do you read to your baby?  Why do you talk to your kid or bring them to the pumpkin patch? Why do anything if they’re not going to remember it? It’s to instill a norm in them when they don’t even realize it.  Even if they don’t remember it, there are going to be things that they pick up on.”

“It’s the feeling of being in a totally foreign place and watching to see how your parents react, being in a situation where things [may] go wrong or the adults in your life don’t know what’s going to happen next, and seeing that Oh, it’s calm, things are fine, they’re going figure it out.”

Maria Surma Manka’s sons August and Baron explore the Isle of Skye during a family workation. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

The rewards of working remotely: Exploring the world more closely.
Baron and August hike to the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye.
© Maria Surma Manka

For their part, August and Baron have made friends in many cultures as they share local playgrounds and routines. Maria recalls a bus ride in London when “a little boy was asking our boys where we were staying. He thought we were staying in a hotel room and the boys said, “We have a yard and a kitchen,” and they just began exchanging stories.”

A playground near Edinburgh Castle is the first stop for digital nomad Maria Surma Manka and her family during a workation in Scotland. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

One of the first steps in each new city, says Maria, is to find the nearest playground.
© Maria Surma Manka

The Universal Language

On one extended visit to Spain, the family stayed with a longtime friend whose son, Dante, was then two years old. “The same age as our youngest,” says Maria. She loved seeing how her English-speaking children and the friend’s Spanish-speaking son quickly established rapport.

“You know, at two years old you barely speak your native language. So it was really fascinating to see them realizing they were able to play cars together or race around with each other and that they didn’t always have to understand what each other was saying.”

“They did learn the Spanish word for Mine, mine, mine!” She laughs. “That translated very quickly.”

 

A bilingual English-Spanish phrase list helps young global citizens talk with each other during family workations in Spain and the U.S. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

The ultimate “playlist”: Maria created a bilingual phrase list for a recent reunion
of Dante, August, and Baron in Minnesota.
© Maria Surma Manka

Growing up culturally aware has also prompted important discussions. Back in the U.S., one of Maria’s sons was troubled to see a bumper sticker that said, “You’re in America. Speak English.” Maria recalls “trying to explain stuff like that to the kids, [the fact] that some people are scared of people who don’t have the same color skin as them or speak the same language as them.”

“And my youngest son, August, said, ‘But we know Dante. He doesn’t speak English and he’s not scary.’ They have a personal reference of someone who comes from a different culture who doesn’t speak their language, but who is a great person, someone with whom they’ve had tons of fun and tons in common.”

It Takes a (Global) Village

Maria appreciates the enthusiastic support of school principals and teachers. Like Mrs. Petron, who taught a lesson on London so Baron’s first-grade class would have the context to learn from his extended visit there.  When the family arrived in London, Baron casually pointed out a local landmark to his parents. “He was teaching us.”

On days when Maria and Joram needed to work from local offices, the boys explored London with their nanny, Sophie Hitchcock. They loved regaling their parents with all they had learned about the city.

Maria Surma Manka’s sons August and Baron, young digital nomads, test their backpacks during a family workation in London. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

Learning in London: The boys test their backpacks to discover
how much they can realistically carry.
© Maria Surma Manka

U.S. Workations

Maria points out that a workation “doesn’t necessarily mean something big and sexy overseas.”  At one of her talks, a woman in the audience shared, “My husband has to go work in Omaha for three weeks, and I can do my job from anywhere.  He’s been trying to get me to bring the kids and work from there.”

It was an oh-I-see moment: Instead of missing out on precious family time, the family could stay connected while getting to know another part of their own country. Instead of forming stereotypes about a city they didn’t know, they could meet the locals as neighbors and develop a broader sense of home.

Digital nomads, Maria Surma Manka (Workation Woman) and sons August and Baron walk along Rose Street, Edinburgh during a family workation. (Image © Maria Surma Manka)

A morning’s routine in Edinburgh. “A workation is a feeling of normalcy and novelty
at the same time,” observes Maria.
© Maria Surma Manka

Growing Up Without Stereotypes

Stereotype busting is a constant theme of Maria’s own family workations. Because the boys’ home base is 85 rural acres, it’s important to her that they also have the experience of living in urban areas. Learning the etiquette of sharing public transportation has instilled in August and Baron respect for the idea of sharing one world.

Maria recalls how after one London Underground ride she had been prepared to offer cultural context about their fellow passengers, figuring that her children might have questions about, say, the guy with the studs and mohawk or the woman in full burqa.

Only it took the boys a full minute to even recall who she was talking about. It soon emerged that yes, her boys had noticed the many people around them. But these young global citizens simply took it for granted that we may dress, speak, and look differently from each other. No big deal.

Says their mom, “They’re growing up with a very broad personal view of the world.”

To learn more about workations, get Maria’s book here. Follow her family’s adventures here and here.

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Pink Transportation Takes the Wheel

by Eva Boynton on August 15, 2017

A woman wearing a pink scarf and driving a pink taxi, illustrating the opportunity for women to work for women's rights and gender equality with pink transportation (image © Hannah Arista).

Two percent of taxi drivers are female while sixty percent are passengers.
 She Taxis empowers women to jump into the driver’s seat. 
© Hannah Arista Photography

Steering Toward Women’s Rights and Gender Equality

PINK, PINK, PINK! Bubblegum, watermelon, flamingo, rose, pink panther, punch pink, and HOT pink are just a few of the rosy shades taking to city streets today. Together, all things pink create a public visual statement of solidarity with women’s rights.

A pink taxi in London, showing a pink transportation alternative to help women advance women's rights and gender equality (image © Ken/Flkr).

Women-only taxi in London
© Ken/Flkr

It sounds a little like the pink DIY-knitted “pussyhats” movement, right? But the wave of fuchsia, to which I refer—Pink Transportationcame before the worldwide flash flood of pink.

Pink Transportation, also known as  PT, addresses gender equality as it strives to improve both women’s mobility and life beyond the steering wheel.

A Long Time Coming . . . and Not Without Debate

Women-only transportation can be traced back to 1909 in New York as part of the women’s suffrage movement. At that time, “suffragette cars,” passenger cars reserved for women only, ran during rush hour on the Hudson and Manhattan Railroad’s “Hudson Tube.”

Although they appeared successful, the cars ran only for six months. They came close to becoming a more permanent installation, but lost the debate to people who believed “. . . men are the best protection that women have in a crowded car.”

Suffragettes protesting in New York for women's rights and advance gender equality (image © New York Times/Wiki Commons).

New York’s suffrage movement inspired the first women-only transportation.
by Paul Thompson [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Even in contemporary times, women are confronted with gender inequality on public transportation. Often, women are given advice regarding how to navigate: “avoid this area”; “take this other route”; “don’t take a taxi alone at night.”

One rider recommended these taxi safety specifics to avoid unwanted attention for just being herself—a woman:

  1. Check the plates of a taxi before entering.
  2. Cover a short skirt or a low-cut blouse with a sweater.
  3. Have money ready to pay so you can get your change and get out quickly.
  4. When you step out of a taxi, don’t go anywhere until the driver has pulled away.

Now that women-only transportation has resurfaced and spread like pink wildfire, the current debate is whether it creates a divide between genders rather than a solution. As the following video shows, many women and pink companies alike acknowledge that their women-only transportation may be a quick fix to a problem that runs deeper culturally and socially. 

“When both sexes are respected, we will not need “pink” or “blue,” says one woman who has been driving Pink Taxis in Mexico City for ten years.

Still, without safe transportation, women are less likely to take advantage of urban resources. This results in marginalization and less community participation, which in turn reinforces old gender role stereotypes.

Women riding a women-only train in Mumbai, India, showing how pink transportation can advance women's rights and gender equality around the world (image © Madhav Pai).

“Ladies Only, for all twenty-four hours” advertises the yellow sign on a train in Mumbai, India.
© Madhav Pai

While in and of itself, the pink movement may not solve systemic gender inequality and male violence against women, it does put the topic in the collective forefront.  In concert with governments and human rights’ organizations, it increases awareness of gender issues, impacts mindsets that appear “inherent” and “unchangeable,” and empowers women.

The Worldwide Power of Pink

From east to west and north to south around the globe, women are coming together to materialize a movement that has fought an uphill battle.

  • In Sivas, Turkey, women drive Pink Taxis. The doors are stamped with wings, a symbol that promises safe travel to women and children.
  • In Lahore, Pakistan, Zar Aslam, who is President and CEO of the Environmental Protection Fund, began the Pink Rickshaw initiative. She invites women to apply to own and run their own rickshaws.
A pink rickshaw, driven by a female driver in Pakistan, illustrating how women advance women's rights and gender equality through pink transportation (image © Sara Naseem).

As pink rickshaw drivers, Pakistani women become entrepreneurs and advance women’s rights. 
Photo by Sara Naseem for The Environmental Protection Fund

  • In New York, SheRides provides a car app “focused on the needs of women,” where women call on other women to transport them safely day or night.
  • In Dubai, women who drive Pink Taxis, dress in pink headscarves. They greet female travelers at the airport.
  • In Mexico City, Atenas (Athena), a pink bus line transports women to and from work.

    Athena bus line in Mexico City, illustrating a type of pink transportation that advances women's rights and gender equality (image © Amy Graglia).

    On Women’s International Day, UN Women launched 50 women-only buses in
    Mexico City. On its side, each bus features a historical female figure.
    © Amy Graglia

Many other countries, such as Brazil, Indonesia, India, Malaysia, Taiwan, United Kingdom, and Egypt, are also seeing pink.

Oh, I See Pink

Wanting to experience the pink movement first-hand, I decided to take my first pink transportation, and the metro in Mexico City offered the perfect opportunity. Rush hour looks like this:

A crowd of men waiting for the metro in Mexico City, illustrating a safety issue for women, addressed by pink transportation in its work for women's rights and gender equality (image © Sergio Beristain).

Forget personal space during rush hour in Mexico City.
© Sergio Beristain

Feeling like a sheep entering an already packed corral and struggling to maneuver the mob, I spied a pink sign declaring solo mujeres (women only) over an entrance protected by two female security guards in pink vests. I shoved my way past the pink signs and found myself onboard, shoulder to shoulder in a metro car with just women. There was an unmistakable change in the atmosphere. Women were smiling, laughing, and engaging with one another.

At a stop near the end of the line, several men filed in and the car became quiet. No more jokes, no more smiling, no more eye contact. The women made a clear effort to avoid unwanted attention, which they now expected to receive.

In that pink, packed metro car in Mexico City, I too had experienced freedom from judgment and fear. Once the men stepped on and the dynamic changed, I noticed my guard went up, as did that of the women beside me. Together, we intentionally assumed a reserved composure. This is why women around the globe have declared that the speed in which cultural and social change occurs is not sufficient for their immediate safety needs.

Though gender separation can sound harsh and anti-progressive, it is one way to challenge the unacceptable advances that many women experience on public transportation. Pink transportation will have a role in the world until the issue of gender equality improves—until more men and women have “Oh, I See” Pink Moments of their own.

A woman flying with a pink umbrella, symbolizing women's efforts to advance women's rights to mobility and gender equality (image © Unsplash/Pexels).

Airborne woman takes mobility into her own hands.

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