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Shaking Up Cultural Traditions By Seeking Silence

by Meredith Mullins on September 3, 2018

View of Pacific coast from the New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place where seeking silence is the norm and where the cultural traditions of Labor Day can be challenged. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The view from the New Camaldoli Hermitage on the Pacific Coast of California
© Meredith Mullins

A Memorable Labor Day Celebration

Happy Labor Day —the unofficial end of summer and, for many folks, a transition to the action-packed days of autumn.

School. New friends. New adventures. A farewell to lazy beach days. TV season premieres. Fall fashion trends. Back to work. NFL kickoffs in the U.S. The rentrée (return) in France. A change in weather. A change in light.

A time of new beginnings.

Before the action starts, it is sometimes good to pause and take a deep breath. As for me, I decided to shake up the cultural traditions of the Labor Day holiday and travel in search of silence.

A view of the Big Sur coast, where seeking silence can open senses to challenge the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Senses awake to some of the most beautiful meeting of land and sea on the planet.
© Meredith Mullins

In Search of Silence

I chose to treat this summer transition as a mini New Year’s and travel to a remote hermitage on the Pacific Coast to just “contemplate,” however that might manifest itself . . . and to take good deep breaths of clear, quiet air.

The New Camaldoli Hermitage rests on 900 acres of the California Central Coast, where rugged hills and rocky Pacific shoreline meet dramatically at the twisting edge of the continent.

Iron sign for the New Camaldoli Hermitage in Big Sur, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Welcome to the hermitage, where land, sea, and contemplation merge.
© Meredith Mullins

While the hermitage is not too far from civilization, it boasts the enviable perks of no cell phone service, no wifi, no TV or radio, magnificent natural surroundings, a welcoming community of Benedictine monks, and dedication to silence.

(It was also only recently re-connected to the rest of the world after winter rains caused mudslides that crumbled the highway to the north and south.)

Road int he Big Sur hills near the New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place where seeking silence and challenging cultural traditions of Labor Day are possible. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The roads are fragile and often succumb to the winter elements of rain and moving earth.
© Meredith Mullins

This is a place where listening takes precedence. Where contemplation is the norm. Where you are not pulled out of yourself by external stimuli. Instead, you turn inward, and your senses come alive. You see and hear things in a different way. Magnified, yet simplified.

A bench by the road at the Big Sur New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Benches that invite opening the senses
© Meredith Mullins

Ready for Reflection

As I drove from town down the winding coast road, I knew I was ready for reflection. My mind was already shaking things loose. I was leaving the “to do” lists and the practicalities of daily life on the road behind me.

A parade of random thoughts began to form, broke ranks, and then bounced around for awhile without structure. I conjured things from past, present, and future. I saw the coast road as I had never seen it before. Everything was dancing.

Plant and pinnacle on the Big Sur coast road near the New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

On the coast road
© Meredith Mullins

I did, however, notice that, in my reverie, I was talking to myself. Out loud. I knew I would have to thwart that impulse once I arrived at the silent hermitage. There would be no talking . . . not even to myself.

I admit to having trepidations. I had never been for a week without links to the external world. I thought perhaps I would wither from boredom (although I knew I could always jump in my car and head for town). I would be wanting for news and social interaction.

I didn’t wither. Instead, I found new life. A gift of time and freedom, where everything was a discovery . . . everything was a memorable “Oh, I see” moment.

Sun dial at the New Camaldoli Hermitage in Big Sur, a place for seeking silence to challenge the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The sun dial at the hermitage reads Carpe Diem (Seize the Day).
© Meredith Mullins

A New Way of Seeing

I spent hours in the secluded garden behind my room, looking out toward the ocean and the sloping ridge that would become an everpresent friend.

Sunset on the ridge with a fog bank in Big Sur at the New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

My ridge: the first sunset over a coastal fog bank.
© Meredith Mullins

On the first day, the fog was thick. I looked out toward what would have been the ocean, but the fog, sky, and water had turned into simple blue immensity. The mixed elements seemed to glow with hidden light.

On the next day, my focus went from distant to close up. I became aware of the rocks in my garden. I studied the layers of time evident in the colorful striations. I memorized the shape of the leaves on the plants and trees.

A leaf and stalk of grass at the Big Sur New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Every detail of nature was magnified.
© Meredith Mullins

Some days, I moved to the benches perched on the edge of the road, each of which had its own view of the land and sea.

Some days, I walked the trails or ventured down to the remote beaches.

Waves on the Pacific Coast, near the Big Sur New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Remote rhythms
© Meredith Mullins

On sunny days, I saw warmth. On foggy days, I saw mystery. And, each evening, a spectacular form of sunset occurred, most often through a layer of fog or clouds.

I was never bored. As Annie Dillard said, nature is so brilliant that all you have to do is show up. Showing up proved quite rewarding.

A golden sunset behind a cloud at the Big Sur New Camaldoli hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Each sunset was unique.
© Meredith Mullins

A New Way of Hearing

So what happens when you live a week in silence?

You listen. Sounds that are often lost in the noise of everyday life can now be heard. Your shoes crunch the earth. The birds become distinct personalities. The trees start to talk.

In the silence, a buzzing bee sounds like a jet engine, scurrying quail sound like giant bears crashing through the brush, and the gentle wind becomes a dominant instrument in this new world symphony.

I often felt rudely loud just chewing my cruciferous vegetables (a staple in the hermitage vegetarian food).

Tree with white flowers and a bee at the Big Sur New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

I sat near this tree, which was humming loudly. I finally realized that it housed a nectar convention
and hundreds of bees were partaking.
© Meredith Mullins

Labor Day Resolutions

While the monks of the New Camaldoli Hermitage embrace living in solitude and silence, it is not so easy for the average person when returning to normal life. All I could do was to make some silence-inspired resolutions.

  1. I will choose a day a week to unplug. I will leave technology behind and attempt to return to the eloquence of silence that I experienced on the Big Sur coast.
  2. Instead of checking email first thing in the morning (a bad habit I have), I will spend 15 minutes in silence. Whether this is “meditation” or just letting my mind wander and my senses awaken, the time will be well spent.
  3. I will try to live more often like the zen bumper sticker says—“Don’t just do something. Sit there.”
Sunset through fog at the New Camldoli Hermitage in Big Sur, a place for seeking silence and challenging cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The silence of a sunset
© Meredith Mullins

Silence and stillness are truly art forms. These ideas are not new (practiced for many years around the world in a variety of cultures and religions). But they are a good way to shake up the current trends and cultural traditions that continue to increase noise and distraction.

In this world of constant movement and information overload, silence and stillness become important.

Branches with waves in the background near the Big Sur New Camaldoli Hermitage, a place for seeking silence and challenging the cultural traditions of Labor Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Changing perspectives
© Meredith Mullins

We shall see what these new beginnings bring. One thing I am sure of is that I have now experienced travel writer Pico Iyer‘s definition of an amazing destination—a place that sends one back home a different person from the one who left.

For more information about the New Camaldoli Hermitage, visit the website and Facebook page.

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Rendezvous à la Turk

by Joyce McGreevy on August 27, 2018

A young Turkish American girl celebrates her heritage at the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Derya Bolgün, age 10, welcomes you to the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival
in Monterey, California. 
© Joyce McGreevy

A Cultural Festival Calls Forth Memories

You won’t need sugar in your fincan kahve (cup of coffee) this morning. Şekerpare, a delicate cookie made with semolina, almonds, and love, delivers the sweetness. So, inhale the rich aroma and galvanize your senses with robust brew.  If you closed your eyes, you could be in Istanbul.

But you’re at a Turkish cultural festival in Monterey, California.

Pastries like Sekerpare and irmik helvasa connect Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California to the author’s memories of Istanbul. (Images © Joyce McGreevy/ Ceren Abi)

Is baklava Turkish or Greek? Depends on whom you ask. Şekerpare (center) and irmik helvasa (right)
reflect culinary traditions of Turkey’s Ottoman Empire.
© Joyce McGreevy (L)/ Ceren Abi (R)

Re(sound)

Oh, I see: At cultural festivals, details evoke worlds.  At Monterey’s Custom House Plaza, the percussive rhythm of the davul and the string-song of a bağalama become a soundtrack for Turkish memories.

Young women at the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California reflect the exuberance of Turkish line dancing and inspire memories of Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Young women in Monterey, California reflect the exuberance of Turkish line dancing. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Every note I hear is layered with sounds remembered:

The singsong pitch of street vendors and the sonorous calls-to-prayer of the muezzin; the miyav (meow) of sociable kediler (cats); the sparkling humor and plaintive beseeching of TV soap operas; the clatter of plates and clink of glasses at a meyhane; the buzz and bump of motorbikes on cobbled alleys; the banter of fishermen at the Galata Bridge amid the commentary of seagulls.

As if on cue, a colony of seagulls above Monterey Bay choruses raucously, bringing my senses back to California.

Re(scene)

At a cultural festival a single image can reassemble memory’s mosaic. I spot a display of nazar boncuğu, blue glass eye beads. Traditionally, these talismans warded off misfortune’s “evil eye” by staring boldly back, commanding misery to come no closer. In reality, Turks collect them mostly for their beauty and to give as gifts.

A display case of nazar boncuğu, blue glass eye beads, connect a Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California with the author’s memories of Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The eyes have it: Shown here in Monterey, nazar boncuğu are everywhere in Turkey. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Seen in Monterey, the blue beads trigger a montage of memories: The blue-tiled Rüstem Paşa Mosque, bluer even than Istanbul’s more famous Blue Mosque. The azure blue of summer sky as you ferry across the steel blue Bosporus from Istanbul’s European side to its Asian side. The intense dark blue of lapis lazuli in a jeweler’s window. The shimmering blue of peacocks in a palace garden. Blue-black figs at an open-air market.

Re(word)

One 15th-century word encapsulates the entire spectrum of blues that first dazzled travelers in Turkey. The French pronounced it tur-KWAZ.

Yes, turquoise, or literally, “Turkish.” Today, we reserve that word for the bluish-green stone mined in arid regions of Turkey, America’s Southwest, and elsewhere. “Phosphate of copper and aluminum” lacks a certain poetry.

A collage of scenes in Istanbul and Bodrum reflects the prevalence of the color blue in Turkish arts and culture. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The color blue is prevalent throughout Turkey.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Thirst for Memories

Turkish wines are superb, but it’s too early to sample them. And other beverages offer their own complexities. A glass of gold is made using two stacked kettles, the lower kettle to boil the water, the top to warm the loose-leaf çay, or tea. Tulip-shaped glasses are essential.

A glass of Turkish tea at a cultural festival in Monterey, California inspires memories of Istanbul, Turkey. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Serve Turkish tea in glasses to assess its strength and admire its color.
© Joyce McGreevy

Now let’s order lunch and ayran (EYE-rahn), a salty, ice-cold yogurt drink. It’s an acquired taste, but a refreshing one, too. The savory, restorative counterpart to the American milkshake.

Two men cook Turkish food, one at a cultural festival in Monterey, California and one in Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In tiny pop-up kitchens, two chefs—one in Monterey, one in Istanbul—satisfy hungry crowds.
© Joyce McGreevy

Ne yemek istersin? “What would you like to eat?” Turkish cuisine goes way beyond doner kebap. It reflects two continents, a host of regional, seasonal variations, and the experiences of 2,000 centuries. From palatial restoranları to rickety stands  on street corners, Turkish kitchens produce some of the world’s most splendid fare.

uyers, sellers, and Turkish ceramics at at a cultural festival in Monterey, California form a colorful collage of Istanbul street scenes. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Colorful Turkish ceramics in Monterey (upper left) recall a feast of colors in Istanbul.
© Joyce McGreevy

The Taste of Memories

Turkish breakfast is a lavish affair, a beautifully constructed spread of the finest regional cheeses, cured olives, egg dishes, rose jam, and more. But nothing inspires morning rapture quite like simit. It is to Turkey what the croissant is to Paris—deceptively simple and simply superb.

To find simit in Turkey, just look for the man wheeling a red trolley or balancing a tray stacked ten tiers high. In the U.S., simit is increasingly available at Mediterranean delis and bakeries, including Monterey’s International Market.

Served fresh and warm, simit are downright inspiring. They have even inspired the noun can simidi (jahn SIH-mihd-ee)—the name for the ring-shaped life preservers on Turkish ferries.

Simit at a cultural festival in Monterey, California inspires memories of Istanbul, Turkey. (Image © Ceren Abi)

The perfect Turkish breakfast begins with simit, a circular bread encrusted with sesame seeds.
© Ceren Abi

Turkish Memory Lane

By now even a passing California car inspires Turkish reverie: While driving from Istanbul to Bodrum, my Turkish relatives and I stop at the town of Ortaklar. Ortaklar’s main street is lined with carwashes, but each represents only half of a family-owned business. I discover the other half when we pull into Necati’nin Yeri.

While the car is seen to, we join festive diners at long tables under shade trees and canopies. Dish after exquisite dish arrives, and a young man slides flat rounds of dough into an outdoor oven, where they puff up like balloons. This is lavas (lah-VAHSH), so irresistible it’s a wonder the customers don’t puff up like balloons, too.

Recalling this feast,  I momentarily conflate thoroughly Turkish fare and American thoroughfares. Oh right, I’m in Monterey, California, not Ortaklar. But everything is redolent with the sweet confusion of memories.

Two street scenes, one during a cultural festival in Monterey, one in Istanbul, celebrate Turkish culture. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

On a day in August, families stroll in Monterey and Istanbul. Can you tell which is which?
© Joyce McGreevy

The Taste of Turkish Words

I savor, too, the taste of Turkish words. A cultural festival offers the chance to practice. The Turkish language is considered fiendishly difficult to learn, but I disagree. Difficult to master, sure, but that’s true of any language. The spelling of modern Turkish is largely phonetic, so once you recognize differences in the alphabet and get the hang of certain sounds, you might be surprised at how quickly you catch on.

It begins with Merhaba (MEHR-hah-bah). Hello!

Fisherman’s Wharf Monterey inspires a visitor to a nearby Turkish cultural festival ito recall a similar scene at the Bosporus in Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Left to right: On Monterey Bay and Istanbul’s Bosporus, friendly people go with the flow. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Learning to say hello, surely that’s the takeaway of cultural festivals.  Hello to the connections between here and there, past and present, you and me.  Merhaba to families strolling along the Bosporus and families strolling along Monterey Bay. Hello, Merhaba, and Welcome to whatever connects us all.

Thank you to Ceren Abi for contributing to this article. Seni seviyorum, Ceren!

See more of the Monterey Turkish Arts and Culture Festival here.

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Take a Fresh Look at Farmers Markets

by Joyce McGreevy on August 6, 2018

People at Monterey Marketplace on Alvarado Street reflect the popularity of farmers markets as an American custom. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Every summer over 10,000 people visit Old Monterey Marketplace on Alvarado Street.
© Joyce McGreevy

How an American Custom Keeps Evolving

 It’s time for a field trip! Today marks the start of National Farmers Market Week, so grab your reusable cloth bags and let’s go see what’s in season. We’ve got energy to spare, thanks to all the organic fruit and vegetables we’ve been enjoying this summer.

People at Monterey Marketplace on Alvarado Street enjoy the American custom of a farmers market. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Free samples? Yes, please.
© Joyce McGreevy

Farmers markets in the United States are a time-honored American custom. If you’ve ever visited Lancaster, Pennsylvania, the site that started it all, you probably admired its Romanesque Revival market house. But that’s just the “new” building—added in 1889. The original opened in 1730.

Lancaster Farmers Market in Pennsylvania has been the center of an American custom since 1730. (Image public domain)

Lancaster Central Market is America’s oldest farmers market.

Other markets soon followed. In Alexandria, Virginia, some of George Washington’s Mount Vernon crops landed in buyers’ baskets. In 1779, Soulard’s Farmer’s Market opened up west of the Mississippi in St. Louis. On August 17, 1907, the day that Pike’s Place Market opened in Seattle, crowds were so massive that produce sold out in minutes.

A basket of organic radishes reflect the American custom of shopping at farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The roots of farmers markets run deep. 
© Joyce McGreevy

A Market Crash

But by the 1940s, American farmers markets were as rare as hen’s teeth. What upset the apple cart?

Progress.

As Americans became car drivers and followed the new interstate highway system out of the cities and into sprawling suburbs, the distance between farm-raised food and buyers widened. “Convenience foods” went from novelty to so-called necessity as big factories sent big trucks to bigger and bigger supermarkets.

People shopping for groceries in the 1940s reflect the switch from farmers markets to supermarkets. (Image Library of Congress)

By the ’40s, supermarkets like this one in Washington, DC had changed the American diet.
© Joyce McGreevy

The number of farmers markets plummeted.

Despite a rekindling of interest during WWII, a national renaissance was slow in coming. In 1970, only 340 farmers markets remained, many of them operated by resellers, not growers.

Back to the Land—and the Farm Stand

Organic beets in an array of colors show why shopping at farmers markets has become a popular American custom. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

And the beet goes on . . .
© Joyce McGreevy

But the ‘70s also sparked new interest in healthy eating. The ‘70s economic recession “helped” too, nudging shoppers away from costly convenience foods to affordable fresh fruit and vegetables.

As farmers markets sprouted up nationwide, the Farmer-to-Consumer Direct Marketing Act of 1976 fertilized the soil: numerous states enacted regulations that shortened the distance from farmer’s field to kitchen table.

People at the farmers markets on Alvarado Street, Monterey find a variety of organic fruits and vegetables. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At farmers markets, consumers can buy the freshest produce possible.
© Joyce McGreevy

Over the next 15 years, the number of farmers markets increased by as much as 500 percent in some states. Today, nearly 9,000 farmers markets are flourishing across the U.S.

A collage of organic vegetables and herbs reflects the bounty of the American farmers market. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Eggplant and peppers and herbs, oh buy!
© Joyce McGreevy

Getting Fresh

What do we love about farmers markets? To start with the obvious, there’s the food. Berries and stone fruit with flavors so rich they not only register on the tongue but also evoke sweet memories. Lettuce that isn’t packing material. Today’s “greens” offer a rainbow of colors and hundreds of tasty varieties.

An organic peach reflects the appeal of farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Gather ye seasonal peaches while ye may. 
© Joyce McGreevy

And oh, those names. There’s poetry, history, and more in heirloom tomato varieties like Dagma’s Perfection, Green Zebra, Brandywine, Abraham Lincoln, Paul Robeson, Mortgage Lifter, and Banana Legs.

There’s beauty in the colors and shapes, too, a beauty that wears the odd blemish or nick with pride. That’s what happens when tomatoes have been ripened in the field, not gassed while green and “packed to stack.” Sure, you can count on supermarkets for tomatoes that look as uniform as ping-pong balls. The trouble is, they have about as much taste.

A trio of heirloom tomatoes reflects the appeal of buying organic vegetables at farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Real tomatoes don’t wear uniforms.
© Joyce McGreevy

Getting Social

We also go to farmers markets for the human interaction. At a time when everything can be ordered online, visiting your local farmers market has become an everyday travel experience. Destination: The Land of the Living.

A smiling vendor in Monterey, California reflects the friendliness of farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Three out of four farmers who sell at farmers markets use practices
that meet or exceed organic standards.
© Joyce McGreevy

People who study these things have reported that folks who shop at farmers markets have 15-20 social interactions per visit compared to 1-2 interactions at supermarkets.

Vendors from P&K Farms reflect the appeal of buying direct from the growers at farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Three generations of the Tao family have planted produce by hand at P&K Farms.
© Joyce McGreevy

For me, that’s the “oh I see” moment: Farmers markets not only offer you fresh, organic produce, but a fresh, organic perspective on community.

Keauhou Farmers Market on the Big Island of Hawaii reflects the variety of U.S. farmers markets. (Image © John McGreevy/Molly McGreevy)

Keauhou Farmers Market on the Big Island offers native Hawaiian Mamaki tea, seafood,
organic pineapples, macadamia nuts, and more. 
© John McGreevy/Molly McGreevy

Getting More Connected

Farmers markets grow local jobs and feed money back into local communities. They are also becoming accessible to more of the people who make up a community.

A growing number of farmers markets take place on college campuses, in hospital parking lots, and outside office buildings.  Thousands of farmers markets now accept SNAP benefits and other nutrition-program vouchers. And as Civil Eats reports, the range of cultures represented among vendors, customers, and foods is slowly broadening.

Artwork by Picasso and skyscrapers in Daley Plaza, Chicago suggest the variety of American farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Chicago’s Daley Plaza Farmers Market comes with a view of
a Picasso and classic skyscrapers.
© Joyce McGreevy

Increasingly, farmers markets—and farms—are coming to “food deserts,” communities with severely limited access to grocery stores.  In recent years, nonprofits all over the U.S. have sent mobile farmers markets into underserved counties. Meanwhile, organizations like GrowNYC, and Chicago’s Growing Home are establishing farms and markets in city neighborhoods.

It would be wishful thinking to say that farmers markets have fully evolved to reflect all of America. But the seeds are growing.

Get Going!

Over time, cooking demos, walking tours, and other events have become features of this American custom.  Technology has taken its place, too. Among the fresh offerings during this year’s National Farmers Market Week is a #LoveMyMarket photo contest on Instagram.

Musicians from the Santa Fe New Mexico band Lone Pinon reflect the importance of the arts at American farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Santa Fe Farmers Market, New Mexico, has great live music
© Joyce McGreevy

Meanwhile, live music at markets still favors the old-timey. My unscientific survey suggests that string bands rule. So rosin up the bow, grab your gingham cloth bags, your digital camera, your “I Heart Farmers Markets” tattoo, and let’s get going!

Snap peas and sweet peas reflect the organic vegetables and flowers found at farmers markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Pick up snap peas and snap up some sweet peas. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Which farmers markets have you visited? Find your nearest market here.

Another staple of farmers markets: Little kids being adorable. Enjoy.

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