Oh, I see! moments
Travel Cultures Language

Not Just Another Day at the Beach

by Meredith Mullins on February 13, 2017

An ocean view of the fishing village of M'Bour Senegal, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream of images. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Life and livelihood from the sea in M’Bour, Senegal
© Meredith Mullins

A Photographer’s Dream: Cultural Encounter in Senegal

Travel adventures are triggered in many different ways. Journeys to exotic lands. Serendipitous celebrations. Unexpected challenges. New friendships with strangers. Losing yourself to the rhythms of wherever you are.

Boy and boat in M'Bour offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream with vivid Senegal life. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Falling in step with the local rhythms
© Meredith Mullins

This travel adventure is a cultural encounter centered on a memorable day at a Senegal beach. It all started with the washing of a horse. And, as I always say, “When you begin your day with a ceremonial horse washing, the promise of greatness is in the air.”

Senegal boys washing a horse, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream in M'Bour, Senegal. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The washing of the horse: a perfect way to start a day of travel adventures
© Meredith Mullins

An M’Bour Adventure

I was relaxing on a café terrace in M’Bour, looking out toward the edge of the earth and shielding my eyes from the relentless tropical sun, when I spied said horse, knee deep in the Atlantic Ocean.

Like a celebrity equine, he stood proud and poised, with just the right touch of obedience and humility. A team of young Senegalese beach lovers surrounded him and splashed him with sea water. Apparently it was horse washing day.

I waded out and offered my help, with a traveler’s curiosity and a not-so-hidden motive of capturing the jubilant event in photographs.

Four boys washing a horse in M'Bour, Senegal, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream in images. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Adding the finishing touches to the horse washing process
© Meredith Mullins

A Photography Philosophy Pause

I should pause here to say the Senegalese are a very proud and confident people. They show you exactly who they are—each with a direct and unselfconscious gaze that seems to come from deep within.

Three Senegalese boys (B&W) on the beach in M'Bour, Senegal, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream in photos. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Showing themselves as they wish to be seen
© Meredith Mullins

They are also quite reticent to be photographed, for a number of very good reasons. They have suffered and have been taken advantage of—in history (slavery) and in contemporary life (tourists who click away with their cameras without respect for privacy or permission and without regard for the human heartbeat inside).

As a photographer of people, I have learned that an enduring and meaningful photograph comes from building a solid relationship with those you are photographing and by conveying a strong sense of place. In Senegal, this connection takes a sincere investment of time.

Meanwhile . . . Back to the Horse

I stayed with the horse washing crowd for a long time, as we played in the water and got to know one another. I learned the intricacies of sea water washing, as we made our horse as white and as bright as possible.

Senegal boy resting in the ocean in M'Bour, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream in images. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Cooling off in the Atlantic
© Meredith Mullins

The kids became my muses and my friends, as well as an integral part of my photographs. They were simply themselves, and they allowed me to capture that essence.

Small boy on the beach in M'Bour, Senegal, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream of Senegal portraits. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Meeting the essence of M’Bour on the beach
© Meredith Mullins

A Walk on the Beach

Several of the horse washing team then became my tour guides and accompanied me along the beach to every small community and encampment. I became a focus of attention. Everyone was interested in me . . . just as I was in them.

Crowds gathered. Children came running. Villagers waved in welcome.

And when I treated one village to candy from their shop, suddenly everyone was there. (A huge thank you to my guides for excellent crowd control.)

Villagers in M'Bour, Senegal reach for candy in the local shop. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A candy frenzy
© Meredith Mullins

As a result of this intense and real connection, I made more memorable photographs in a few hours than I have ever made in any other place.

Boy runs to the ocean in M'Bour, Senegal, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream of images. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A run to the sea
© Meredith Mullins

That success was, in part, because of the vivid colors, the symphony of varied faces, and the bustling fishing life and love of the sea. But my “Oh, I see” moment was that it was also, in part, because I was fully present in their life, even for a brief moment in time.

Woman with baby on her back in M'Bour, Senegal, offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream of images. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Welcoming smiles from M’Bour villagers
© Meredith Mullins

They say in photography that if you make one strong photograph during a shooting day, you have been successful. A photographer’s dream.

I made many images that day that I treasure. It was a day rich in sensory experience. But more important than the photos, I still remember feeling a very real part of the Senegal rhythms, as the community of M’Bour washed, swam, fished, played, and turned toward the water for life and livelihood.

These are the kind of cultural encounters that stay with you forever.

Three boys on the beach in M'Bour, Senegal (B&W and close up), offering travel adventures and a photographer's dream in images. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

New friends on the M’Bour beach walk
© Meredith Mullins

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Aha Moments in Aarhus

by Joyce McGreevy on February 6, 2017

A kayaker savors an aha moment at sunset in Aarhus, where the 2017 European Capital of Culture will celebrate community connection to nature. (Image © Anders Hede/VisitAarhus)

A quiet sunset before the start of Aarhus 2017, a yearlong series of events
to celebrate community by rethinking it. 
© Anders Hede/VisitAarhus

Can we celebrate community by rethinking it?

The aha moments began at dawn with a mass bicycling event. As cyclists of all ages glided by, the winter mist rose like a curtain, revealing the newest European Capital of Culture. Aarhus 2017 had launched.  All year, this small Danish city will celebrate community by rethinking it.

Celebrations continued into the night, with songs lifted by the wind to soar above the crowds. As six Viking ships set sail, hundreds of choral singers and thousands of locals, each carrying illuminated paper ships, transformed the port into a sea of lights.

Water Music, a harbor-side event in Aarhus, 2017 European Capital of Culture, was staged to celebrate community by rethinking performance art and creating aha moments. (Image © Sõren Pagter/Aarhus 2017)

Rethinking theatre: Even a port can be a stage in Water Music, part of Aarhus 2017.
© Sõren Pagter/Aarhus 2017

Rethinking Creative Cities

Located a few hours west of Copenhagen, Aarhus (OR-hoose) has attracted growing numbers of international visitors. This is a city in love with nature. Harbor and forest surround it and a tranquil river flows through its bustling center.

The Aarhus River’s renewed visibility shows how rethinking leads to aha moments, one more reason to celebrate community. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Once paved over for cars, Aarhus River was reopened in 2005.
© Joyce McGreevy

It’s also home to some of the world’s most sophisticated architecture: landmarks like the Isbjerget (“Icebergs”)  and DOKK1, a tech-spectacular community hub and library.

Being a European Capital of Culture goes beyond tourism says Aarhus 2017 Program Director Juliana Engberg. “It raises the ambitions of a city and its region. It encourages us to stand up and be noticed, and to become a creative city.”

The Isbjerget (“Icebergs”) of Aarhus, 2017 European Capital of Culture, reflect how rethinking architecture leads to aha moments. (Image © Kim Wyon/VisitDenmark)

Rethinking structure: Uniquely angled to resemble icebergs,
these Aarhus apartments maximize views of the sea.
© Kim Wyon/VisitDenmark

Rethinking Time Travel

Taking notice of Aarhus is a good idea.  With a population of 315, 000, Aarhus is a heady mix of charmed village and edgy urban hive.

Møllestien, the most photographed street for aha moments in Aarhus, was saved by rethinking how housing can celebrate community. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Rethinking housing: 18th century Møllestien, the most photographed street
in Aarhus, once faced demolition. Then artists and students moved in.
© Joyce McGreevy

To explore it is to wander through time. One moment you’re strolling the cobblestones of Møllestien (“Mill Lane”), where hollyhocks and roses frame half-timbered cottages. Next moment, you’re gazing up at the rainbow-tinted circular skywalk of the ARoS Museum of Modern Art.

The rainbow skywalk of ARoS Museum of Modern Art inspires aha moments that celebrate community in Aarhus, the 2017 European Capital of Culture. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Rethinking vision: A skywalk by Olafur Eliasson atop ARoS offers
rainbow-tinted panoramas of the city.
© Joyce McGreevy

Historically, Aarhus is one of Scandinavia’s oldest cities, founded around 770. But its concentration of university students makes it one of the youngest cities.

And wow, does Aarhus welcome new arrivals. Whenever a child is born here, parents press a button at the local hospital, sounding a three-ton bronze bell in that high-tech library.

Rethinking Past and Future

The theme of Aarhus 2017 is Let’s Rethink.  “We will examine our Danish DNA,” say organizers, “and take delight and pride in its unique history.” Folkelige (popular traditions) are part of the program, including Viking pageants to rival the most binge-worthy Nordic dramas.

A woman re-enacts 17th century life in Aarhus, where such aha moments celebrate community history by rethinking it. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Rethinking history: An immersive living museum in Old Town Aarhus
leads you from the 1700s to the 1970s.
© Joyce McGreevy

Rethinking the Future

But diversity and the future play an even larger role. In forums, performances, and feasts, people in Aarhus will explore social media and social isolation, individual rights and collaborative endeavors, stereotypes about ages and cultures, and the potential of all generations.

At the People’s Feast later this spring, long, connected tables will be set up along city streets, and 500 locals and visitors will have supper and talk things over.

These days, there’s certainly plenty to talk about. Aarhus 2017 suggests that people the world over dare to rethink together, too.

Oh, I see: As people in one culture ask the big questions, people in cultures everywhere can move closer to meaningful answers.

Diners celebrate community at one long outdoor table in Aarhus, designed to inspire aha moments by rethinking food and fellowship. (Image © Stefan Ravn/Aarhus 2017)

Rethinking social media: “The biggest dinner party in the history of Denmark,”
The People’s Feast encourages public discussion and debate over a good meal.
© Stefan Ravn/Aarhus 2017

Rethinking Cultures

This year will be transformative for Aarhus, and not just as 2017 Capital of European Culture. As one organizer said, “We’re asking big questions of ourselves, such as: What will it mean to be human in the future?” An urgent question indeed.

What aha moments will occur? What new ideas will travel from Aarhus to your house?

Where else in the world might people sit down at one table? How can we connect what makes us unique from one another and recognize in it our shared humanity? How can we all rethink together?

Imagine a place where, as each new arrival joins us, we ring a bell of welcome. Could that be what it means to celebrate community?

Experience ARoS from the inside. Tour Olafur Eliasson’s skywalk here.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Creative Thinking in Copenhagen

by Joyce McGreevy on December 5, 2016

A cyclist crosses a bridge between islands in Copenhagen, an example of the Danish design that makes this city a Capital of Creative Thinking. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Thomas Høyrup Christensen)

Cycle from one island to another in Denmark’s capital city.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Thomas Høyrup Christensen

The Danish Design of Everyday Life

On a map, Denmark’s 400+ islands resemble a dropped plate. It’s a fitting symbol, considering how Danish design breaks the mold. To the east spanning several islands is Copenhagen—arguably, the Capital of Creative Thinking.

“Danish design” connotes minimalist beauty—Arne Jacobsen’s famous “Egg” chair, Poul Henningsen’s pendant lamps, and other streamlined functional objects.

It doesn’t take a tour of Designmuseum Danmark to recognize that Copenhageners appreciate sophisticated simplicity.

Examples of minimalist furniture and lighting, that reflects the creative thinking of Danish design. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Morten Bjarnhof)

Danish design is known the world over.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Morten Bjarnhof

But Danish design also encompasses creative ideas for everything from transportation to work-life balance, making Copenhagen one of the most livable cities in the world.

City of Cyclists

One of the first things you see are thousands of people crisscrossing the city on bikes. (Don’t mistake a bike lane for a sidewalk though, or it’ll be the last thing you see.) Last year Copenhagen cycled past Amsterdam to claim the title of world’s most bike-friendly city.

Cyclists and pedestrians cross a car-free bridge in Copenhagen, where creative thinking and Danish design influence the daily commute. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Thomas Rousing)

There are five times more bikes than cars in Copenhagen.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Thomas Rousing

More than 60% of Copenhageners use bikes to commute to work, cart around groceries, and attend social gatherings. Politicians cycle to parliament at Christiansborg Castle (a.k.a. “Borgen”). The Crown Prince and Princess shuttle the kids to school in a cargo bike.

The Cykelslangen or "Bicycle Snake" in Copenhagen, is a cycle superhighway that reflects Danish design and creative thinking. (Image © Ursula Bach)

The Cykelslangen or “Bicycle Snake,” offers a shortcut, great views, and optimal traction.
© Ursula Bach

It helps that Denmark is flat as thin-sliced rye, its highest point 560 feet above sea level. Another advantage: a network of 28 bike-only highways. By improving health and reducing vehicle-related costs, the Cycle Superhighway could cut annual public expenditure by 40.3 million euros ($42M).

Libraries for Time Travelers

Danish design integrates past and present. Take Copenhagen’s Royal Danish Library, for example. From the half-hidden garden at Slotsholmen, it’s a red-brick National Romantic style building (1906), a sanctuary of silent hallways, long desks, and rare books, some over 900 years old.

The Royal Library Garden view of the 1906 Royal Library in Copenhagen reflects the Danish design and creative thinking of "Romantic Nationalist" architecture. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Martin Heiberg)

Hidden from the main streets behind Copenhagen’s Parliament is the Royal Library Garden.
©  Copenhagen Media Center/ Martin Heiberg

Then a wooden walkway leads you into the ultramodern wing, a soaring, glass atrium framed by wave-like balconies. Ribbons of sunlight direct your attention to steeply ramped escalators below.

You are standing in the heart of the “Black Diamond.”

An interior view of the Black Diamond, an ultramodern extension of the Danish Royal Library in Copenhagen, showcases Danish design and creative thinking. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Nicolai Perjesi)

Book it to Copenhagen to check out this library.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Nicolai Perjesi

A breathtaking trapezoidal structure of black granite and glass, the Black Diamond extends the old library to the waterfront. It also features a 600-seat concert hall, restaurants, and a bookshop.

The Black Diamond in Copenhagen reflects both sunlight and the creative thinking of Danish design. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Ty Stange)

Take a beach chair, book, beer or coffee, and relax like a local beside the library.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Ty Stange

But that’s not the end of the time travel. Because in Denmark, citizens can use RFID-enabled cards to visit nearly 200 libraries even when staff are not on duty.

Balancing Budgets and Diets

Copenhagen can be expensive. But it’s bemusing when tourists name-drop Copenhagen’s five-star hotels—and then complain about the cost of a beer.

A gargoyle of a crab in Copenhagen shows how humor and creative thinking influence Danish design. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Only a gargoyle could be crabby in Copenhagen.
© Joyce McGreevy

As Copenhageners know, it’s all about balance. My budget apartment in the fashionable Frederiksberg neighborhood offered a wealth of extras, including a high-tech laundry and a charming balcony garden that writers usually only have in movies. With nearby parks and public transportation, it’s hard to go wrong.

Smørrbrød, or Danish open sandwiches, at Torvehallerne Market, Copenhagen, shows that creative thinking in Danish design extends to Nordic cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

“S’more smørrbrød, please!” Torvehallerne Market makes fine dining affordable.
© Joyce McGreevy

So spending a few kroner more for smørrebrød, the traditional Danish open sandwich, won’t break the bank. Besides, that higher tab ensures workers a living wage. As for beer, do as locals do: buy a cold one at a convenience store, sit beside the canal (yes, it’s legal), and enjoy the view. It’s free.

A view of Trangraven, Copenhagen shows how Danish design and creative thinking work in tandem with nature. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

You are never more than a few steps from a beautiful view in Copenhagen.
© Joyce McGreevy

Cashless in Copenhagen

(Danish designed paper currency and coins may be phased out by 2025, as creative thinking influences monetary policy.

Most Danes pay by mobile phone, not kroner.

Speaking of balancing budgets, Denmark is getting rid of money.

Danes use cash for less than 6% of all payments.

Now the city that accepts mobile payments for even the smallest purchases is set to become the first world capital of cashless society.

Critics raise concerns about fraud and institutional control. Supporters say phasing out currency and coins will reduce tax fraud, disrupt black markets, and save millions in minting costs.

It’s Easier Being Green

Copenhagen is on track to become carbon-neutral by 2025. More than 40% of Denmark’s electricity is powered by renewable energy sources. Plans to switch bus lines to biogas or electricity will reduce carbon emissions another 20%.

Windmills on Copenhagen's urban horizon exemplify how creative thinking and Danish design affect energy policy. (Image © Kontraframe)

By 2020, 50% of Copenhagen’s energy will come from wind power.
© Kontraframe

Denmark discourages gasoline consumption with a whopping 180% tax on new cars, but waives this for electric vehicles. Drivers of EVs also enjoy free city parking. Hear that, U.S. cities?

Organic produce at Torvehallerne Market, Copenhagen suggests the creative thinking and Danish design of Nordic cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Named European Green Capital in 2014, Copenhagen leads the world in
organic food consumption.
© Joyce McGreevy

Danish Designed Attitudes

What about Denmark’s reputation as the happiest place on earth?

“I think you mean Disneyland,” says local guide Rekke, citing the place inspired by Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens.

The carousel at Tivoli, the amusement park in Copenhagen, is an icon of Danish design and creative thinking. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Anders Bøgild)

Tivoli, the 170-year-old amusement park in Copenhagen.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Anders Bøgild

She jokes that Hans Christian Anderson, Danish fairytale author and erstwhile Copenhagen resident, invented the genre known as “Nordic Noir.”  As evidence, Rekke cites the grim ending of the original “Little Mermaid.”

The final resting place of Hans Christian Andersen is a reminder of this author's creative thinking and the uniquely Danish design of his fairytales. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Andersen’s ultimate fairytale ending? Digteren is Danish for “Poet.”
© Joyce McGreevy

But ask Rekke, “How happy are you?” and she says, “Very. Nine out of ten.” This turns out to be a typical response in Copenhagen.

Making a Living, Having a Life

One reason is work-life balance. By four o’clock, Copenhagen is abuzz with families heading home for the evening. Overtime is discouraged, yet productivity is high.

Hence the Danish word arbejdsglæde, or “happiness at work.”

Office culture is rarely hierarchical and workers speak their minds. (Just don’t boast, even at job interviews; it’s not the Danish way.)

Outdoor diners at Papirøen, or Paper Island, a former storage facility, enjoy the benefits of Copenhagen's creative thinking toward Danish design. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Once a storage facility, Papirøen (“Paper Island”), is the place for global street food.
© Joyce McGreevy

Similarly, Danish government works by way of consensus. No single party holds the majority.

In 2010 Copenhagen’s parliament inspired an idealistic TV series, Borgen, a sleeper hit worldwide. NPR called it “Denmark’s West Wing, but even better.”

Mutual trust is a fundamental Danish value. According to one EU index, voter turnout in Denmark tops 85% and 96% of Danes know someone they could rely on in time of need.

The environs Stork Fountain, Copenhagen showcases the creative thinking of Danish design. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Ty Stange)

Newly graduated midwives dance at Stork Fountain. In Denmark, taxes are high,
and benefits cover college tuition, medical care, and more.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Ty Stange

Remember That Dropped Plate?

Trust may explain why one quirky custom remains popular in Copenhagen. Every New Year, Danes toss old dishes at the doors of friends. The higher the pile of broken plates, the more you’re loved.

An assortment of Nordic cuisine on Royal Copenhagen plates at Restaurant Kronberg, Copenhagen exemplifies the creative thinking of Danish design. (Image © Copenhagen Media Center and Ty Stange)

The Nordic diet emphasizes sustainably produced, fresh local foods.
© Copenhagen Media Center/ Chris Tonnesen at Restaurant Kronberg

Oh, I see: From broken plates to bicycle highways, open libraries to cashless culture, work-life balance to falling carbon levels, Copenhagen may well be the Capital of Creative Thinking. Danish design encompasses everything from environmental stewardship to freedom of expression.

Now, how does creative thinking influence your way of life?

 

Enroll in a free University of Copenhagen class on the Nordic diet here

Tour the world’s most bike-friendly city here and here

Borgen is now available on U.S. video sites.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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