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Travel Cultures Language

A Wanderlust for Words

by Joyce McGreevy on July 11, 2017

Daunt Books for Travelers on Marylebone High St, London celebrates wanderlust and reading while traveling. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Daunt Books for Travelers, on the Marylebone High Street London,
is an original Edwardian bookshop.
© Joyce McGreevy

The Enchantment of
Reading While Traveling

If there were an award for writing and reading while traveling, Emily Hahn would have been World Champion. Early in her 92-year life of wanderlust, Hahn solo-traveled from the Congo to China. That was in the 1920s, and by 1997, Hahn had reported for The New Yorker from around the world, written 52 books, and read voraciously across genres.

She’d also enrolled at an all-male college, overcome opium addiction, carried out underground relief work during WWII, been the concubine of a Chinese poet, married a British spy, and become a pioneering environmentalist.

A vintage edition of The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn symbolizes wanderlust and the pleasures of reading while traveling. (public domain)

Books, like rafts, take us “drifting along ever so far away.”

This summer, as reading and wanderlust become one—when books hit the beaches, travelers recharge e-readers, and reading recharges travelers—consider how Hahn exemplifies the double enchantment of reading while traveling.

As a child, Hahn took to books like an explorer to new lands. “I was a deep reader, plunging into a story and remaining immersed even after I’d finished it,” she wrote in No Hurry to Get Home.

A natural wanderer, she preferred literary characters who were “admirably mobile”—Mowgli, David Copperfield, Huck Finn.

Like Hahn, many a traveler has drifted downriver or flown across continents in the company of a good book. When writers evoke a strong sense of place, even staycationers’ book pages become boarding passes.

Two Bookended Moments  

When my mother was a teenager in the 1930s, she felt electrified by déjà vu while reading a novel set in London. The bolt that leapt off the page described someone crossing the Hammersmith Bridge by taxi. My mother, who lived in the American Southwest, knew she had glimpsed her future.

Eventually forgotten, the moment lay buried for many years. Then one day, the gleaming black cab my mother was riding in crossed a bridge with spectacular green towers. . .

Did Mom know she was nearing The Dove, a favorite Hammersmith pub of novelist Graham Greene? It was he who had evoked a sense of place so powerful that it spanned her future, present, and past.

A woman reading in a window seat of a bookshop in Bloomsbury, London symbolizes the pleasures of reading while traveling, a wanderlust for words. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The geography of a reader’s world is layered and complex.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Story of Here and Now

Over a lifetime, Mom’s reading-while-traveling encompassed worlds on and off the page.

Her literary wanderlust continued after she’d been diagnosed with terminal cancer.  Once, a doctor found her reading War and Peace and tactlessly asked why she had “started reading such a long book.” My mother cheerfully replied, “Well, if not now, Doctor, when?”

Then she canceled her next two appointments to make one more visit to London.

Lost in Place

Have you ever read a novel about a place while you were in that place, or preparing to go there?

Some travelers say it’s a bad idea and can even make you sick. They’re referring to “Paris Syndrome.” It’s the shock that occurs when romanticized expectations of a place clash with its realities.

Remember that as you lose yourself in Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast.  Places are alive and revise themselves. Cafés where a “lost generation” of artists once gathered become hubs for Instagrammers with GPS. And who’s to say they aren’t artists, too?

Vintage books on display in Aarhus, Denmark symbolize reading while traveling to distant places and times, through a wanderlust for words. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Vintage books on display in Aarhus, Denmark invite readers to travel
to distant places and times.
© Joyce McGreevy

Bookmarking Places

Still, there are moments when the place in the book and the place outside the book merge into one. Drowsy from southern French sunlight, you look up from A Year of Provence and inhale the fragrance of lavender fields.

A prairie in Illinois recalls Willa Cather’s sense of place and inspires a traveling reader’s wanderlust for words. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

“I was something that lay under the sun and felt it, like the pumpkins,
and I did not want to be anything more.”–My Ántonia, by Willa Cather
© Joyce McGreevy

Or you discover a landmark in a town you’ve just moved to, precisely as the protagonist in your audiobook does, too.

That happened to me with The Time Traveler’s Wife. A newcomer to Evanston, Illinois, I was walking to work and listening to the novel on headphones, when I came to a place called Bookman’s Alley. At that very moment, the time-traveling narrator said, “ . . . and lo and behold, it’s Bookman’s Alley.”

Today Bookman’s Alley, one of the last of the great bookshops, is gone—except for readers who time-travel there with author Audrey Niffenegger. Books that evoke real places may become the last outposts of what such places signified.

Sometimes a book, like Huck’s raft, becomes the mode of travel. It takes us to places we’ve never been, in ways we’ll never forget.  That’s how I traveled to Antarctica.

A 19th century French book about the South Pole symbolizes reading while traveling and inspires a traveling reader’s wanderlust for words. (Image public domain)

“One hundred thousand years is just a moment in Antarctica.”
—from Antarctic Navigation, by Elizabeth Arthur

It looked like a giant block of ice—the hardcover book, that is.

It felt like one, too. As I hefted the 800-page Antarctic Navigation, I wondered what had attracted me to a tome encased in images of “the highest, driest, coldest place on Earth.”

Yet in reading Elizabeth Arthur’s narrative, I became an Antarctic citizen, an eager member of a perilous expedition—I who scowled at mild snowfalls and looked horrified if someone uttered the word camping.

Books with a sense of place can do that to us, make us homesick for places we’ve never been and take us more deeply into where we are.

The Readable Suitcase

In 1997, while taking my son to Italy, I decided against purchasing Michael Levey’s acclaimed Florence: A Portrait. Digital editions didn’t exist and the print book weighed several pounds.

But on Day 3 of our month in Florence, I paid double the U.S. price to lug it to a flat on the Via Guelfa. It quickly became our household god, a Virgil to Dante’s city that we consulted at the beginning and end of every day.

Vintage books and suitcases on display in San Francisco symbolize reading while traveling to distant places and times, through a wanderlust for words. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At SFO, retro suitcases, books, and cameras reflect connections between
traveling, reading, and remembering.
© Joyce McGreevy

So a few stylish outfits missed the return journey. The author’s style was worthier of room in the suitcase.

Oh, I see: Some books are meant to travel; some books are the compass by which we travel; and some books are destinations of their own.

How about you? Placed any good books and booked any good places lately? For more ideas on reading while traveling, download these Wanderlust-Worthy Book Recommendations.

 

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

The Interdependence of Independence

by Meredith Mullins on July 4, 2017

American flag, as part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © VStock LLC.)

A symbol of freedom
© VStock LLC

Crossing Cultures in Celebration of Independence Day

It’s July. Our thoughts are drifting to . . . beaches, heat-quenching thunderstorms, easy summer reading, lazy days, and, oh yes . . . freedom.

Independence is in the air. Especially for an American living in France. (C’est moi.)

Large American flag and smaller French flags at the American Embassy Residence in Paris France, as we are crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

America and France cross cultures in celebration of independence at the
American Embassy Residence in Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

I feel fortunate to divide my time between two countries that celebrate their freedoms. It’s rewarding to walk down both paths of history. And it’s gratifying to have two occasions to party in the name of pride and patriotism—July 4th and July 14th.

Fireworks behind Statue of Liberty silhouette, a symbol of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Stockbyte.)

New York’s Statue of Liberty, a gift from France
© Stockbyte

France and the U.S.—Longtime Allies

America and France have much in common.

In the flag world, America’s red, white, and blue mirrors the tricolors of France’s blue, white, and red. Shared Statues of Liberty declare friendship among nations and freedom from oppression.

French statue of liberty, a symbol of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

France’s Statue of Liberty standing proud on an island in the Seine
© Meredith Mullins

Both countries mounted successful revolutions against monarchy and aristocracy, with several key leaders (Thomas Jefferson, Ben Franklin, the Marquis de Lafayette) successfully crossing cultures and supporting the efforts of the other nation.

And both countries are dedicated to life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. Equality for all. Liberté, egalité, fraternité.

Sometimes these principles are difficult to implement, but they are emblazoned on documents and monuments so that we won’t forget.

So how should we celebrate these treasures? Especially in a world where freedom is currently a critical issue for so many countries.

Young girl with American flag at parade, part of crossing cultures to celebration Independence Day. (Image © iStock/SaraPlacey.)

Celebrating the 4th of July
© iStock/SaraPlacey

The 4th of July: Independence Day

In France, much of the American expat community pauses on or around July 4th to pay tribute to the seeds of their democracy—commemorating the adoption of the Declaration of Independence in 1776.

Fourth of July picnic, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © iStock/bhofact2.)

The 4th of July picnic: Stars, stripes, and burgers.
© iStock/bhofact2

As America celebrates with parades, picnics, and fireworks, we in France rustle up a feeling of America. We seek out hot dogs and hamburgers. We abandon our croissants and espresso and have a morning meal at Breakfast in America, a restaurant that brings us the familiar American taste of eggs, bacon, and pancakes.

We visit American bars in Paris, such as Harry’s New York Bar made famous with its invention of the Bloody Mary and its hosting of the hard drinking Ernest Hemmingway.

Hot dog at Harry's New York Bar in Paris, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A real American hot dog at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris (that’s pickle relish in the glass, not a newfangled Harry’s cocktail.)
© Meredith Mullins

We organize backyard BBQs, or we hope for an invitation to the elegant party at the American Embassy and Residence (this year also celebrating the centennial of the U.S. entry into WWI.)

WWI soldiers at the American Embassy party in France, part of crossing cultures to celebrate Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The American Embassy 4th of July party also commemorated the centennial of
the U.S. entry into WWI.
© Meredith Mullins

Stars and stripes abound, and the national anthem plays (and still grabs at the heart even when your home country is thousands of miles away).

There is also a ceremony at the Picpus Cemetery in Paris at the grave of Lafayette to honor his important role in Franco-American history.

Lafayette not only fought in the American Revolution, but also secured full French support for the cause. He later worked with Thomas Jefferson to establish trade agreements between the two countries.

When the U.S. entered World War I to support the French, an American flag was placed at Lafayette’s grave and an aide declared, “Lafayette, we are here! Nous voilà.

General Lafayette Statue Lafayette Park in Washington DC, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © iStock/bpPerry.)

A tribute to Lafayette in Washington D.C.
© iStock/bpperry

The 14th of July: Fête Nationale/Bastille Day

The 14th of July goes by many names in France—La Fête Nationale, Quatorze Juillet, and Bastille Day.

Originally called Fête de la Féderation, this day commemorates the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789 marking the beginning of the Revolution.

The day also pays tribute to the official Declaration of Independence (in 1790), with its ideal that we are “born free and remain free and equal in rights.”

Jets trailing blue, white, and red of the French flag on Bastille Day, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Bastille Day begins with tricolor glory.
© Meredith Mullins

The day of celebration begins with a roar and a rattling of roofs. Jets from the French Air Force fly in formation down the Seine, leaving a trail of tricolor patriotism.

They are followed by an air show of military planes, giving us a lesson in history and a cogent reminder of the pervasiveness of war.

The Bastille Day military parade in Paris France, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The Bastille Day military parade down the Champs Elysées.
© Meredith Mullins

A parade down the Champs Élysées follows, with all branches of the military marching in synchronized step, followed by vehicles of military might and the majestic horses of the Republican Guard (Garde républicaine).

The Guard Republican on Bastille Day in Paris, part of crossing cultures in celebration of independence. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The Garde républicaine
© Meredith Mullins

The celebration continues at night around the Eiffel Tower, with a concert and an extensive, dramatically designed fireworks show (with this year’s theme of the Olympics), as the tower becomes an ever-changing part of the fiery and magical artistry.

Then, hundreds of thousands of people flood the streets, thinking not only of the meaning of freedom, but also of how to get home safely amidst the hordes.

Fireworks at the Eiffel Tower on Bastille Day, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The grand finale at the Eiffel Tower on Bastille Day
© Meredith Mullins

The Future of Crossing Cultures

This year, a further step in crossing cultures is in progress, as newly elected President Macron invited President Trump for the festivities on 14 July. We hope for the best from this rendez-vous. There will, no doubt, be many “Oh, I See” moments.

My only wish is for an honest discussion of the real meaning of freedom and how to ensure equality for all.

We hold these truths to be self evident.

And I, for one, want to still feel that lump in my throat when the national anthem plays.

French and U.S. flags at the American Embassy Residence in Paris France, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Keeping friends and allies close
© Meredith Mullins

 

French wine in American colors, part of crossing cultures in celebration of Independence Day. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Happy Independence Day!
(French wine wrapped in stars and stripes)
© Meredith Mullins

Thank you to the American Embassy in Paris for an invitation to the Fourth of July celebration, to Harry’s New York Bar for the great hot dog, and to Breakfast in America for a real American treat of eggs, bacon, and pancakes.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

65 Countries in One Day

by Joyce McGreevy on May 2, 2017

Traditional dancers outside the Embassy of Peru in Washington, DC show why crossing cultures draws so many visitors to Passport DC. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Elegantly dressed young dancers perform outside the Embassy of Peru in Washington, DC.
© Joyce McGreevy

Crossing Cultures at Passport DC

Crossing cultures, collecting passport stamps—the appetite for travel is insatiable. When I heard about an opportunity to visit more than 65 countries I was intrigued. Imagine, the sheer feast of cultural heritage and traditions!

But a multi-country tour? It recalled the 1969 movie, If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium. In that screwball comedy, a busload of tourists barrel through Europe so fast they don’t know where they’ve been until they get their photos developed.

So I settled for nine countries—on a Saturday. Welcome to the Around the World Embassy Tour, an annual day of “Oh, I see” moments in  Washington, DC.

A banner for the Around the World Embassy Tour, part of Passport DC, celebrates the wisdom of crossing cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Every year, over a quarter of million people from around the world attend Passport DC.
© Joyce McGreevy

Crossing Cultures by Crossing the Street

Every year, thousands of visitors take a global journey without ever leaving the city. It’s all part of Passport DC, a month-long “journey” during which embassies open their doors to the public. More than just a rare look inside the buildings, it’s a unique opportunity to experience each country’s cultural heritage and traditions.

Participants can travel the world as they experience the food, art, dance, fashion, and music of different countries. In the past, visitors have been treated to dance performances, storytelling, sari wrapping lessons, and henna demonstrations.

Students and a dance instructor at the Embassy of Ethiopia, Washington, DC, reflect the enthusiasm for crossing cultures at Passport DC. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At the Embassy of Ethiopia in DC, a dance lesson draws young enthusiasts.
© Joyce McGreevy

 “Wow” in Many World Languages

You can even get a souvenir passport to collect stamps at every embassy. This proves especially popular with kids. Broadening the horizons of young explorers is at the heart of Passport DC.

At the Embassy of Ghana, one little boy was so amazed to learn he was officially setting foot in another country that he set an unofficial world record for Most Repetitions of the Word “Wow!”

Then he asked, “How do you say ‘wow’ in Gha—in Gha—?”

“Ghanaian?” a volunteer filled in helpfully.

Turns out there are many ways to say “wow” in Ghana, from Aboko to Heezeh to Tekyoo, each word calibrated to a particular level of wonder.

Kente cloth patterns draw visitors to the Embassy of Ghana in Washington, DC, as part of Passport DC, a celebration of crossing cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At the Embassy of Ghana, a volunteer explains that every pattern and symbol
of Kente cloth has a special meaning.
© Joyce McGreevy

 Among the most popular events are the embassy open houses. Start early enough and you could trek from A to Z—Afghanistan to Zimbabwe—in a single day. There’s no ticket required. Passport DC is free.

Omani coffee and dates draw visitors to the Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center, Washington, DC during Passport DC, an annual celebration of crossing cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The sweetness of dates balances the assertiveness of qahwa, Omani coffee.
(At the Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center, Washington, DC.)
© Joyce McGreevy

Culinary Cultures

Food is a big draw and lines form early. This year, Hungary’s embassy is welcoming visitors with goulash and wines. Belgium will break out its renowned chocolates and beers. Nordic and Mediterranean cuisines are trending. And so it goes, from Nepalese nibbles to South African snacks.

A volunteer at the Embassy of Bangladesh in Washington, DC presents traditional cuisine as part of Passport DC, a celebration of crossing cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

After lunch at the Embassy of Bangladesh, explore the film, literature, music, history,
and art of this South Asian nation.
© Joyce McGreevy

Global “Show ‘n Tell”

But food is, so to speak, just the appetizer. To mark its tenth anniversary, Passport DC 2017 is presenting its most ambitious cultural program yet. More than 100 international events are on offer at embassies, cultural centers, museums, and local landmarks, including the Smithsonian and the Library of Congress.

Urban seating design in Helsinki, Finland exemplifies the creativity on display during Passport DC, a celebration of crossing cultures. (Image © Riitta Supperi/Keksi/Team Finland)

Visit the Embassy of Finland in DC to learn how this Nordic nation edged past
Denmark for 1st place in the European Happiness Equality Index.
© Riitta Supperi/Keksi/Team Finland

Spain is showcasing its architecture. Ireland, Sweden, Finland will each celebrate traditional heritage and innovative design. Malta, which currently holds the Presidency of the European Union, will reveal a wealth of reasons to visit this tiny but magnificent republic.

(Take a mini-vacation in Malta here.)

All This and Greenland, Too

And then there’s Denmark. In addition to getting your “hygge” on, tasting butter cookies, and winning prizes, you can also glean ideas from Smart Cities, Denmark’s initiative for creating sustainable urban communities.

Denmark’s Embassy in DC is also where you’ll learn about Greenland, the world’s largest island with the world’s lowest population density. As a country where 80% of the landmass is covered by an ice sheet holding 10% of the world’s total reserves of fresh water, it’s a place that affects everyone, everywhere.

(Meet Greenland’s “Pioneering People” here.)

Ilulissat Icefiord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and other aspects of Greenland are featured in Passport DC, a celebration of crossing cultures. (Image © Uri Golman/ Visit Greenland)

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Ilulissat Icefiord of Greenland is
the biggest glacier outside of Antarctica.
© Uri Golman/ Visit Greenland

Beyond Treats and Tourism

Along with food and tourism, the international programming will explore complex issues. The Mexican Cultural Institute is featuring “Bordes/Borders,” nine short films sharing one theme. The Goethe Institute presents several events about the human impact of war. Past events have taken on human trafficking, environmental issues, and the status of women around the world.

At outdoor events, viewing, not queuing, is the order of the day. The Washington DC Dragon Boat Festival is now in its 16th year. On May 20-21, the Potomac River becomes the site of spectacular races between these ornate and colorful boats.

The event is sponsored by the Taiwan-U.S. Cultural Association. Discover the poignant history behind dragon boat racing here.

Members of the Saltanah Ensemble perform Arabic Music at Passport DC, an annual celebration of crossing cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The U.S-based Saltanah Ensemble perform Arabic music of many countries on featuring oud, ney, qanun,
violin, riqq and Egyptian tabla. Listen. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Can’t make it to Washington, DC this year? Plan on Passport DC 2018. Meanwhile, you can keep crossing cultures via links on embassy Web sites. They offer a trove of resources on travel, cultural heritage, and traditions.

These are among the best:

 Find out more about Passport DC here. Catch last year’s highlights here.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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