Oh, I see! moments
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Travel Inspiration from the Sounds of the Sea

by Meredith Mullins on March 28, 2016

The sea organ in Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for music and nature lovers. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The sea organ (Morske Orgulje) in Zadar, Croatia
© Meredith Mullins

The Haunting Sea Organ of Zadar, Croatia

Travel inspiration is born from many different sources. The power of nature. Layers of history. Beauty of land and sea. Discovery of new cultures. Freedom to wander. A feeling of community, wherever you are in the world.

The allure is irresistable.

And, if you are able to put all of those inspirations together, a truly memorable experience emerges. Such was the case for me with the sea organ in Zadar, Croatia. A convergence of “Oh, I See” moments.

Close to a Dream

A spontaneous visit to Croatia introduced me to the rugged beauty of the Dalmatian coast, the friendliness of the locals, and, in many places, the luxury of being the only traveler in town (an off-season advantage).

Zlatni Rat beach in Croatia, travel inspiration for beach and nature lovers. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Croatia’s unspoiled coastline
© Meredith Mullins

I was visiting Split—the second largest city in Croatia, with a rich history dating back to the 4th century BC— when someone mentioned the Zadar sea organ. I had read about this amazing architectural creation on the Croatian coast. It had won several urban design awards after its installation in 2005 and, even more recently, had been rediscovered in the blogosphere.

From the moment I first learned of it, I knew I wanted to go there in person. Music and nature are two powerful forces in my life.

I saw how close I was to Zadar—a breathtaking three-hour coastal bus ride away. I was ready to make a pilgrimage for the symphony of the sea.

Nature Speaks

The sea is never silent. It always has something to say. From gentle lapping rhythms on a calm day to thunderous crashing during a storm. It is scripted by the forces of nature.

It was these sounds of the sea that inspired Croatian architect Nikola Bašić. He was considering projects to rebuild Zadar—a city that had thrived for centuries but had been devastated in WWII.

Roman column in Zadar, Croatia, fragments that provide travel inspiration of layers of history. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Many layers of history in Zadar
© Meredith Mullins

Much of the city had been rebuilt after the war, using fragments of the Roman ruins in the construction of new buildings. But the open space where the city meets an expanse of the Adriatic Sea and offers vistas of the nearby archipelago had been neglected. It was just a concrete sea wall.

Bašić wanted that promontory into the sea to be something special. Because he grew up on an island near Zadar, the communion that occurs when water meets land was a part of him.

“The line between sea and land has always been resolved by sound,” he said. It was this premise that led him to think about a creative solution to the Zadar seafront.

Sea organ stairs in Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for music and nature lovers. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A connection with the sea
© Meredith Mullins

A Stairway into the Adriatic

Bašić first wanted to be sure his creation provided access to the sea, so he designed a staircase that descends to the water.

Depending on the tides, wind, and weather, the steps vary in the way the water flows over them. You can stop on a step to stay dry, or you can slide into the sea for a swim.

“I wanted to make people come into contact with the sea,” Bašić explained. “I wanted to invite them to communicate with nature.”

The Creative Improv of Wave and Wind

Bašić then decided to add music and worked with a hydraulic engineer, acoustic engineer, and an organ master to create an instrument within the steps—the first sea organ in the world.

The organ is a series of 35 tubes of different diameters. Air is pushed by the waves into the tubes and then into a horizontal corridor. The music breathes through holes in the upper sidewalk.

Holes in the sidewalk where the music is channeled in the sea organ of Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for music and nature lovers. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The sea organ music is channeled up through the holes in the sidewalk.
© Meredith Mullins

The organ is tuned so that it is similar to traditional Dalmatian male singing groups with roots in the Middle Ages. It sounds ancient and extraterrestrial at the same time.

The notes are completely unpredictable (an ever changing Playlist), because nature is composing in the moment. The wind and the waves choose the notes. Even a passing boat can have influence on the composition.

Wind surfer near the Riva in Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for travelers of all ages. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Can a wind surfer and a cyclist influence the sea organ’s sounds? You’ll have to listen.
© Meredith Mullins

A Sense of Community

Since the installation of the sea organ, life in Zadar has changed. The city has become a significant traveler destination as word of the sea organ spread globally.

Children listen to the sea organ in Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for all ages. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A school group visits the sea organ and listens in the magical sidewalk holes for the songs of the sea.
© Meredith Mullins

More important was the renewed sense of community. Bašić proudly notes, “With the sea organ, the Nova Riva (new seafront walkway) has literally changed its character and become the scene of a new urban sociability.” It draws people in.

Sun Salutation by architect Bašić in Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for worldwide travelers. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The Sun Salutation on the Riva near the sea organ
© Meredith Mullins

And with the subsequent addition of Bašić’s Sun Salutation, an installation that uses solar energy to charge the panels of a large circular pool of color and light, the transition from day to night casts a magical spell.

Nikola Bašić posing on the Sun Salutation in Zadar, Croatis, travel inspiration for worldwide visitors. (Image courtesy of Marina Projekt.)

Croatian architect Nikola Bašić, lit by the solar energy of his Sun Salutation
Image courtesy of Marina Projekt

A Perfect Recipe for Inspiration

Zadar is the ultimate in travel inspiration. You can walk through visible layers of history. You feel the power of nature even in an urban setting. You instantly feel a part of the community. And the mysterious music of the sea organ makes you want to sit there forever.

Panorama of the sea organ in Zadar, Croatia, travel inspiration for music and nature lovers. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A peaceful panorama
© Meredith Mullins

After many mesmerizing hours staring at the sparkling water listening to the haunting songs of the sea, I was in a place of reverence. I found it difficult to leave. But I know I will return.

Listen …

If video does not display, watch it here.

Thank you to TravelontheDollar for the YouTube video.

For more information on Bašić’s design of the sea organ, click here.

For more information on Zadar, Croatia, click here.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Connecting Through the Universal Language of Music

by Meredith Mullins on May 4, 2015

Two dancers in white at the rue Mouffetard in Paris, showing that music is the universal language of connection. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

Sunday morning dancing on the rue Mouffetard in Paris
© Meredith Mullins

A Reminder of Old Paris: Singing and Dancing on the Rue Mouffetard

I want to make people cry, even when they don’t understand my words.   —Edith Piaf

It’s Sunday morning in the Square St Médard in Paris. I am singing in the warm sun . . . belting out the words “Tant que l’amour inondera mes matins” from Edith Piaf’s “L’Hymne à l’Amour” (The Hymn to Love).

With my limited French, I don’t quite understand what the words mean; but the song swells up inside and puts a little lump of emotion in my throat. I feel an unexplainable nostalgia.

There are people all around me singing the same words, with the same nostalgia. There are dancers swirling to the accordion accompaniment. Everyone is involved in the song. We are connected by a powerful force. The universal language of music.

Red haired dancer with male companion, dancing at le petit bal on rue Mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image: Meredith Mullins)

A waltz of pure joy at Le Petit Bal Musette
© Meredith Mullins

Oh, I See: The Power of the Musical Bond

Every Sunday morning (except in extreme weather), a community of music lovers comes to the spontaneous musical stage set amidst the bustling market on the rue Mouffetard.

They come to “leave their troubles behind” and lose themselves in the music. They come to step back in time into the unaffected charm of French village life. They come, quite simply, to smile and feel the warmth of a neighborhood.

Singers at le petit bal on the rue Mouffetard , showing the universal language of music. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

Singers from near and far join together as one chorus.
© Meredith Mullins

Le Petit Bal Musette

The leader, accordionist and singer Christian Bassoul, is dedicated to the revival of the “forgotten tradition” of the bal musette, a gathering of families and neighbors to sing and dance to accordion music in the streets.

Every Sunday for more than 30 years, Christian has organized the music. The rest of the story just falls into place with those who happen to stumble on the festivities.

Christian Bassoul at le petit bal on the rue Mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image © Virginia Kelser Jones)

Christian Bassoul, the organizer of le Bal Musette, with singer Viviane Hatry
© Virginia Kelser Jones

“Regularity and continuity are important,” he says. “Some people come from outside of Paris or from far-away countries, so we try not to disappoint them.”

One American friend of the bal musette plans her schedule around the Sunday morning event. She flies in on Saturday and leaves on Monday. The perfect neighborhood weekend vacation.

The group meets the challenge of Paris weather, which can (and does) change every few minutes. “Sometimes we must sing between the raindrops (passer entre les gouttes),” Christian says. The show must go on.

Children dancing at le petit bal musette on the rue mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

The waltz knows no age limits.
© Meredith Mullins

A Group that Welcomes Everyone

The crowd is diverse—locals and strangers, young and old, worn tennis shoes and sparkling high heels, blue jeans and ruffles. The passionate dancers, singers, and musicians take center stage, aided by the supporting cast of the moment.

Michel Cygan, a dancer at le petit bal musette on the rue Mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

Michel Cygan, a regular for more than 15 years
© Meredith Mullins

Many of the dancers are regulars. They have the impeccable style and graceful moves of the best of “Dancing with the Stars” but they’re not searching for fame or fortune. They are here for the sheer joy of dancing.

If you’re shy about dancing but have that “I want to dance” look in your eye or tap in your toe, one of the regulars will waltz you onto the dance floor (albeit asphalt). Or, don’t wait. Join in by yourself or grab hands with the welcoming circle of dancers.

Couple dancing toward the camera at le petit bal musette on the rue Mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image © Meredith Mullins).

The smiles come naturally.
© Meredith Mullins

If you don’t know the words to the songs—so much a part of French tradition—a helpful regular will bring you a song sheet. Edith Piaf, Charles Trenet, Georges Brassens, Félix LeClerc, Aristide Bruant, Charles Aznavour, Josephine Baker, and Jacques Brel will come alive before your eyes.

Baby with song lyrics at le petit bal on the rue Mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

If you need a song sheet, don’t be afraid to ask.
© Meredith Mullins

A Chorus of Friendship

The Mouffetard group bonds through the music and has such community spirit that after the dancing in the square, they reconvene up the street for lunch together.

Then they clear the bistro floor and dance and sing some more. Sometimes on sunny summer days, they continue the party on the banks of the Seine.

B&W photo of dancers by the Seine, part of the rue Mouffetard group, showing the universal language of music. (Image© Meredith Mullins)

The dancing sometimes reconvenes on the banks of the Seine.
© Meredith Mullins

As a teacher of Christian’s said, “Music is like an immense house. You visit a room and there are two or three doors going to other rooms. You can never see all of it.” The possibilities are endless.

No Regrets

There is power in music that transcends the challenges of daily life. The universal language leaps over words and goes straight for the heart. And, on Sundays on the rue Mouffetard, the rhythms of old Paris bring people together in a communal smile.

When everyone sings Piaf’s “Non, je ne regret rien,” there is truth in the music. There are no regrets.

The dip, dancers at le petit bal musette on the rue Mouffetard, showing the universal language of music. (Image © Meredith Mullins)

Dipping into life
© Meredith Mullins

More information on Christian Bassoul and Le Petit Bal Musette.

Paris celebrates the 100th anniversary of Edith Piaf’s birth with an exhibit at the Bibliothèque Nationale.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

The Star-Spangled Banner Rides a Creative Wave

by Sheron Long on May 19, 2014

If video does not display, watch it here

Minor Key, Major Creative Thinking

Just before the “Play ball” call goes out in baseball stadiums across America, fans pause to honor an American tradition. Hand over heart, many sing along with “The Star-Spangled Banner.”

It’s a warm day, a happy time, and the music is in feel-good major key.

Then along comes Chase Holfelder who, honoring the tradition of creative thinking that built America, decides to experiment. He sings the song in minor key and delivers a performance described by many as “hauntingly beautiful.”

First Burst of Creativity

In September 1814 during the War of 1812, Francis Scott Key, a lawyer and amateur poet, began a poem on the back of a letter and thereby created what would become our national anthem. Originally titled “Defense of Fort M’Henry,” Key was inspired by seeing the US flag still flying after a night of heavy bombardment at Baltimore’s Fort McHenry.

The Star Spangled Banner flag that inspired the lyrics to the US national anthem in 1814 and whose music and lyrics have been impacted by the creative thinking of subsequent generations. (Image from the Smithsonian Institution Archives)

This Star Spangled Banner flag inspired the lyrics to the US national anthem during the Battle of Baltimore in the War of 1812. A linen backing added in 1914 indicates its original size that had been reduced by pieces cut off for souvenirs. Image from the Smithsonian Institution Archives

By November, the work had achieved popular acclaim—17 newspapers had printed the poem, and the Carr Music Company had published both words and music.

No Stopping the Flow of Creativity

By the early 1900s, several versions of the song existed. A panel of musicians, including  John Philip Sousa, standardized a major-key rendition that was adopted by Congress in 1931 as the US national anthem.

“The Star-Spangled Banner” was institutionalized at public sports events during WWII. Creative adaptations began with Jose Feliciano’s blues-style version during the 1968 World Series, causing both acclaim and controversy.

Since then, versions rock, show soul, speak country, follow a Latin beat, and more. So much so that critics have taken to choosing their top ten renditions.

 

Airmen presenting a 100-yard by 50-yard flag at the Las Vegas Bowl, 2006, while the audience sings "The Star-Spangled Banner," an anthem personalized over time by a century's worth of creative thinking. (Image © Stocktrek Images)

Airmen present a 100-yard by 50-yard flag during the national anthem at the Las Vegas Bowl, 2006.
© Stocktrek Images

 

When Creative Works Go Viral

With his minor key version, Chase Holfelder, a web producer and user experience designer, has now added his mark on the national anthem. Uploaded on April 22, 2014, it has already received over 1,200,000 views—a remarkable speed even in our age of social media.

While some protest what they call “tampering” with a patriotic icon, others are looking for a national vote to make the minor key version official. They hear it as a better fit for today’s America.

Holfelder’s audience see many creative possibilities:

“This needs to be on the new Godzilla soundtrack. I want to see this haunting tune set to slow motion depictions of soldiers and citizens fighting side-by-side for their lives as the sky burns and Cthulhu takes his throne.”

—Andrew Chason

“This should be the song Anthony and Joe Russo decide to use for the hopeful reunion of Steve and Bucky in Captain America 3.”

—Rachel Fortune

“I feel like this would be sung at Captain America’s funeral.”

—Alice Ampora

Meanwhile, another creative type has already remixed Holfelder’s version with the theme from Winter Soldier playing in the background. And Holfelder has gone on to release “Amazing Grace” in minor key.

Creativity builds on creativity.

Oh, I see. We may not know what’s next, but when it comes to creative thinking and “The Star-Spangled Banner,” the one thing we do know is that there will be a “next.”

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