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Travels to the Past: Sweden’s Vasa Ship

by Meredith Mullins on November 5, 2019

A model of the Vasa, with full sails
© Meredith Mullins

The Shortest Maiden Voyage in History

She was as tall as a four-story building and weighed 1,300 tons.

She housed two gun decks with 64 cannons and could transport more than 450 crew members.

She was both inspiring and intimidating with her 700 intricate carvings decorating the ship.

Intricate carvings on every part of the Vasa ship
© Meredith Mullins

She was the most significant statement of power that King Gustav II Adolf of Sweden had ever created.

She was the Vasa—the mightiest warship of her time.

Inspiring and intimidating at the same time
© Karolina Kristensson/The Vasa Museum

The Maiden Voyage

The Vasa’s maiden voyage on August 10, 1628 was to be a triumph of innovation, firepower, and dominance.

The design and building process had taken two years and a hefty two percent of the total Swedish budget. She was meant to change the way of warfare, with her size and cannon power.

Alas, her legacy became history . . . in a different way.

The lion was a symbol of strength and lethal power.
© Meredith Mullins

She set sail from the Stockholm, with thousands of proud and jubilant Swedes watching (as well as a few spies from enemy Poland and Lithuania). She fired her cannons in a salute to power, and glided gracefully through the harbor.

There were no threatening icebergs that summer day, only an affable breeze, which filled the sails and sent her gently toward the Baltic.

A small gust of wind made her lean slightly, and the crowd gasped. But she righted herself, and all breathed a sigh of relief.

Two decks of gun ports—a warfare statement of power, but a tragic flaw in the end
© Meredith Mullins

Another gust of wind made her lean even further. This time, water came rushing through the gun ports. As quickly as her maiden voyage had begun, it ended. She sank to the bottom of the harbor.

In perhaps the shortest first (and last) voyage in the history of the sea, the ship was lost, along with the lives of thirty men and women. The journey had lasted only 20 minutes.

The Next Chapter

Attempts to salvage the ship were unsuccessful, but several entrepreneurs succeeded in recovering most of the valuable cannons. After that, the Vasa was forgotten.

One of the cannons that remained with the ship
© Meredith Mullins

Lost forever? No. A few attempts to find the ship over the years failed.

But, more than 325 years after that fateful day in 1628, Swedish shipwreck researcher, Anders Franzén, wrote a new chapter of history. With advanced sonar technology and a passion for locating the wreckage, he found the Vasa, more than 30 meters deep in the Stockholm harbor—a unique opportunity for travels to the past.

With several years of careful planning to protect the fragile vessel, the ship was partially raised from the sea on August 20, 1959 and fully raised on April 24, 1961—majestic even covered in mud.

Carvings of mermaids, tritons, and sea creatures survived the 300+ years under the sea.
© Meredith Mullins

Protecting the New Treasure

The ship was in surprisingly good shape. It had been preserved in the cold, brackish water and the oxygen-free mud. But, the more-than-three centuries at the bottom of the sea had taken a toll. Parts had come loose and floated away. The ship had to be rebuilt, like a complex jigsaw puzzle.

Piece by piece, the ship was reconstructed.
© Anneli Karlsson/The Vasa Museum

It also had to be protected from drying out too quickly, so the conservationists used polyethylene glycol (a chemical also found in lipstick and face cream) to keep the ship from cracking.

More than 40,000 items were found on the seabed, including 400 carvings—warriors, lions, emperors, and cherubs. Most of the original brilliant color had faded, but it was clear that the carvings represented the kingdom’s power, faith, courage, and lineage.

Research into the paint fragments has provided information on the original colors.
© Meredith Mullins

The sculptures faced both inwards and outwards on the ship to strengthen the crew’s fighting spirit and to show the world the power of Sweden. These pieces had to be assembled back into position.

Sculptures had to be placed back in position during the reconstruction process.
© Meredith Mullins

Oh I See: Preserving History

The discovery and preservation of the Vasa brought the 17th century back to life—an “Oh, I See” moment of opportunity coming from tragedy.

The Vasa, for a few minutes, had been a ground-breaking floating community. Now, the ship’s remnants were providing a more in-depth picture of that era.

The clothes, food, and tools were all an important insight into life of the times. Divers found shoemaking materials, which indicated the sailors expected to have time on their hands to entertain a second trade.

Carvings often mirrored renaissance art.
© Meredith Mullins

Clothes were preserved in the cold water, showing the working class fashion of the day. And, a block of butter was recovered and now sits in the Vasa Museum freezer. No one dares to taste this nearly 400-year-old delicacy, but it’s an astounding feat of science that it exists.

Even some well-preserved skeletons were recovered, giving researchers information on what the people of the time ate and what illnesses might have been common.

Continuing research on the paints of the time enables colorful replicas
of the faded wood carvings.
© Meredith Mullins

The Work Continues

Even now, the conservation techniques continue. The Vasa museum is kept at a constant temperature of around 65 degrees F. (18.5 C) and 53% humidity. The space is unusually dark, since light would continue to degrade the wood. Even so, the ship shrinks a bit each year.

No one knows just how long this ship can be preserved. For now, we know that the Vasa Museum is a treasure—a way to travel to the past and learn from this opportunity that history has given us. And . . . it is the only museum in the world that has masts emerging from its roof and centuries-old butter in its freezer.

The Vasa Museum stands proud, with masts emerging from the roof.
© Meredith Mullins

For more information, visit the Vasa Museum.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Travel Inspiration on an American Road Trip

by Meredith Mullins on October 21, 2019

Butterfly Town U.S.A.
© Meredith Mullins

The Telltale Stories of Town Slogans

Sometimes, a city’s descriptive moniker is so memorable, it becomes a part of modern culture.

New York—The Big Apple
Philadelphia—The City of Brotherly Love
Las Vegas—What happens in Vegas Stays in Vegas.

One slogan like “The Big Apple” may not be enough for a city like New York (also represented by
“The City that Never Sleeps,” “Gotham,” and “I Love New York”).
© iStock/emyu

However, there is a unique universe to explore in the town slogans and welcome signs of some of America’s smaller cities. And the focus that each community chooses can be a travel inspiration.

Meet Butterfly Town, U.S.A. The sign at entrance to Pacific Grove reminds visitors and residents alike that this quiet California town by the sea is a haven for the Monarch butterfly’s winter migration. Every autumn the butterflies are welcomed by a hometown parade as they come to rest in two special groves of eucalyptus trees.

Pacific Grove has branded itself with one of the unique aspects of its identity—a wondrous natural phenonmenon that attracts visitors from around the world.

The Monarch butterflies entice visitors to Butterfly Town, U.S.A.
© iStock/LifeImagesbyGloria

The Magnetism of Town Slogans

As we travel from place to place, especially on the roads of the U.S., the town slogans that appear on welcome signs are not just an interesting read, but also a revelation of a town’s spirit. Oh, I see. They may also be a call to action.

When should we pause and turn off the highway? Why is this community significant? What towns should we visit . . . and why?

Why not visit Tombstone? The town will always be there.
© Tombstone Chamber of Commerce

A town’s motto, whether official or unofficial, originates with a number of questions. What makes a town unique? What is its marketable quality—for businesses, residents, and visitors? How should it present its essence in a brief slogan on a sign that people speed by? How does it get passersby to take notice in a world of fast-paced information and fleeting sights?

Collaboration with marketing firms, brainstorming sessions, chamber-of-commerce soul searching, market research, contests, and lengthy discussions all play a role in the creation of a community’s homespun brand.

The paths are varied—with history, location, humor, wordplay, unique qualities, friendly seduction, and just plain bragging rights presenting myriad possibilities.

Los Banos proclaims its importance.
© DMT

Gateways, Crossroads, and Centers (oh my)

Many town slogans take advantage of that all-important aspect of location—a gateway, a crossroad, or a geographical center.

For the “gateway” towns, it seems to pay to be at the entrance to something.

St Louis, Missouri—The Gateway to the West
Sioux Falls, South Dakota—Gateway to the Plains
Aurora, Colorado—The Gateway to the Rockies
Clarksville, Tennessee—Gateway to the New South

Why not promote your being at the crossroads or center of something? Anything?

Los Banos, California, seems special for its place “At The Crossroads of California;” and Milpitas, California, opens the door to the tech corridor as “The Crossroads of Silicon Valley.”  But it’s hard to compete with Terre Haute, Indiana—the “Crossroads of America.”

Pittsfield, Wisconsin, is “The Exact Center of the State;” Belle Fourche, South Dakota, is the “Center of the Nation;” and, with all due humility, Boswell, Indiana, is the “Hub of the Universe.”

Can the “Center of the Nation” compete with the “Hub of the Universe”?
© DMT

There is also a displacement trend where towns become a tribute to other towns.

Carrboro, North Carolina—The Paris of the Piedmont
Decatur, Alabama—The Chicago of the South
Ouray, Colorado—The Switzerland of America
Muskegon, Michigan—The Riviera of the Midwest
Deland, Florida—The Athens of Florida

Size is relative.
© iStock/Andrei Stanescu

Size Doesn’t Matter

Many cities and towns allude to their size—whether big or small.

Reno, Nevada, is “The Biggest Little City in the World” (although it’s unclear who set the statistical parameters).

Manhattan, Kansas, is “The Little Apple,” and Denver, Iowa, is “The Mile-Wide City.”

Livonia, New York, puts things in perspective with “Some Bigger, None Better.” And Burkeville, Virginia (population around 500) proudly proclaims that it is “The Little Town That Could.”

They’re “Down to Earth” in Gravity, Iowa.
© Jeff Morrison

Humor Matters (As Well As a Touch of Wordplay)

Some of the best town slogans are the ones with humor. Travelers on the roads of America can always use a smile.

Some slogans perhaps fall short of Pulitzer depth, but are still a breath of creative air in the whirlwind of the more staid “biggests” and “bests.”

Gettysburg, South Dakota—Where the battle wasn’t.
Gravity, Iowa—We’re down to earth. (If gravity goes we all go.)
Drumright, Oklahoma—Town of oil repute.
San Andreas, California—It’s not our fault.
Walla Walla, Washington—The city so nice they named it twice.
Bushnell, South Dakota—It’s not the end of the Earth, but you can see it from here.
Knox, Indiana—Where opportunity knocks.
Hooker, Oklahoma—A location, not a vocation.

A highway smile
(Image Courtesy of the City of Gettysburg, SD.)

The Feel-Good Towns

Some cities and towns just want people to feel good when they visit or want to attract more residents through a rose-colored promise.

Hico, Texas—Where everybody is somebody.
Andover, Kansas—Where the people are warm even when the weather isn’t.
Happy, Texas—The town without a frown.
Eustis, Florida—The City of Bright Tomorrows
Boyd, Wisconsin—The friendly town. Why go by?
Gulfport, Mississippi—Where Your Ship Comes In

Sometimes, the promises become even less specific.

Wasko, California—A nice place to live.
Forest Junction, Wisconsin—You can get there from here.
Bellingham, Washington—Let us surprise you.
Metter, Georgia—Everything’s better in Metter.
Beaman, Iowa—You’re not dreamin’ you’re in Beaman

A town slogan so ingrained in Hershey, Pennsylvania, that even the lights on Chocolate Avenue
hint at chocolate.
© iStock/gsheldon

Town Slogans That Dominate A Town

Some towns dive deeply into their brand, carrying the theme through all aspects of community life.

Hershey, Pennsylvania, is “The Sweetest Town on Earth” and, of course, “The Chocolate Capital of the World.”  Chocolate can be found everywhere.

Castroville, California, is the “Artichoke Center of the World.” The expansive fields surrounding the town confirm the title, as does the artichoke “cuisine” offered in the town’s restaurants.

Everything artichoke
© Meredith Mullins

Top Five for Travel Inspiration

Which towns won my heart from their town slogans . . . and made me curious enough to put them on my travel “to do” list?

  • Winnemucca, Nevada—The City of Paved Streets (Paving does seem enticing.)
  • Tombstone, Arizona—The Town Too Tough To Die (There will always be a future.)
  • Cherryfield, Maine—The Blueberry Capital of the World (although Hammonton, New Jersey, might challenge this assertion)
  • Bothell, Washington—For a day or a lifetime (One of my favorite slogans. No pressure. You’re free to do what you want.)
  • Knik, Alaska—Dog-Mushing Center of the World (The ultimate in unique experiences)

Which one provides some travel inspiration for you?

Thanks to Brad Herzog for his list of travel slogans.

And particular thanks to the Tombstone, Arizona Chamber of Commerce for showing the true meaning of hospitality.

For a review of additional town slogans, visit Offices Net.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Is Paris Disappearing?

by Meredith Mullins on October 7, 2019

Let’s not lose the magic of Paris life.
© Meredith Mullins

Change Comes to Four Cultural Icons

“Panta Rhei” wrote the Greek philosopher Heraclitus. “Life is flux.”

This prescient philosophy, from more than 2000 years ago, is more commonly known as “Change is the only constant.” A truth in 500 BCE and a truth today.

In a city like Paris, the process of change can affect the visible cityscape, as well as its cultural icons. We are the witnesses as we go about our daily rhythms of sitting in our beloved cafés, taking the bus, getting the news, and, yes, finding a restroom.

In quotidian life, we face the modern renditions of places that were once part of the cultural heritage of Paris—transitions from the past to the future.

Layers of history
© Meredith Mullins

I feel nostalgia for bygone eras, even as I continue to walk on cobblestone streets and admire the buildings and bridges of past centuries.

And that makes me ask, “Is Paris disappearing?”—a question worth contemplating as I sit for a while in a sidewalk café.

Paris Cafés: A tribute to a slower pace of life
© Meredith Mullins

Leisurely Café Sitting or Fast Food?

Paris is not Paris without its iconic cafés. Parisians and visitors will never give up sitting on the rattan chairs, sipping an espresso or verre de vin, and watching the passing parade or talking with friends. Café sitting is the ultimate way to embrace a slower pace of life.

McDonald’s takes over a 19th century Haussmann building.
© Meredith Mullins

However, it is easy to notice that fast food has taken hold in the City of Light. From McDonald’s to Subway to Chipotle to Bagelstein to Burger King to Starbucks, a different kind of cuisine and culture is gaining popularity. It seems that some folks cannot get enough of America’s fast-paced habits.

The McCafé is not quite the same as the classic sidewalk gems.

Thank goodness, President Macron has recently allocated funds to keep the traditional cafés alive. It would be sad to see these testaments to the spirit of community disappear.

Is a Starbuck’s coffee really as good as an espresso at a sidewalk café?
© Meredith Mullins

A Bus Stop is a Bus Stop is a Bus Stop . . . Not

The Paris bus stops are a welcome sight, some so conveniently close to each other that you can see the next one from the one you’re standing in.

But, as with many things, modernization came to the Paris bus stops. In 2015, the shelters were converted to a futuristic design, complete with streamlined roof (some with solar panels and some with planted greenery), charger stations, and a goal of energy efficiency.

Sleek new bus stop design
© Meredith Mullins

In addition, the city added exterior signposts that indicate the buses that serve the stop and show how many minutes until the next bus. You know from a distance whether you have to pick up the pace or be prepared for some Godot-like waiting. The signs are illuminated at night, which makes them easy to see.

Form did not exactly follow function, however, as the new roof design does not protect bus patrons from the elements. You can get rained on, snowed on, or gusted by wind.

The new bus stop design provides little protection against wind-blown elements.
© Meredith Mullins

The old bus stops were a homey little cocoon with three sides—such an inviting shelter that many a vagabond called them “home.”

The city promotes the new “open” design, however, as more accessible for people with prams and for people with disabilities.

There’s more to come. The “Bus Stop of the Future” is in development. As new “community spaces,” these shelters will offer bus ticket sales, coffee, music, book borrowing, information on the neighborhood, bike rentals, and more. The RATP (Paris Transportation Administration) will begin to introduce these structures soon.

The legendary news kiosks, brimming with print material and souvenirs of Paris
© Meredith Mullins

All the News that Fits

The newspaper kiosks of Paris are legendary. The dark green color and the carved metallic dome with a delicate spire make us sure we are in Paris (or, at least, watching a Paris film). Newspapers, magazines, and postcards burst forth from the tiny doors and spill onto the street.

Where else but here would you buy your Le Monde for the day’s news or your L’Officiel des Spectacles for all the events in Paris for the week.

Now, one by one, these traditional kiosks are being replaced by structures made of recycled glass and aluminum. The green color is similar to the legendary green, but the domes are a thing of the past, leading critics to call the new design a soulless “sardine can.”

The change is primarily to improve the working conditions of the news vendors and to allow more walk-in space for the patrons.

It’s a new world.
© Meredith Mullins

The structure can be heated. The enclosed space protects the vendor (and the merchandise) from the elements. It’s more like a shop, with shelves, so vendors don’t have to unpack their magazines and papers every day and repack them at night when they leave.

Many of the kiosks will have refrigerators so they can sell cold drinks, and some will have bathrooms for the vendors.

What will happen to the old kiosks? You can buy one if you want to own a little bit of Paris. Contact edouard.rayer@mediakiosk.fr for details.

Kiosk for sale?
© Meredith Mullins

It’s also nice to know that a few of the old-style kiosks will remain in place—preserved for history (and for filmmakers and tourists seeking selfies).

The Last Pissotière

Paris is famous for its elegance and style, but it must also be noted for the practical transition that has taken place in the development of public restrooms.

For many years, the public pissotières were a staple on the streets and boulevards, from three-stall rotundas to monolithic solo spaces. All were deftly designed to ensure the privacy of key body parts.

They were as much a part of the Paris landscape as the cafés and news kiosks. (Women, of course, were more discreet, using the toilettes in cafés.)

Now, the pissotières have been replaced by stainless steel ovals, with a forceful gush of water to clean them after each use. They are omnipresent (and free) . . . and a bit frightening if you have a fear of being flushed into oblivion.

The modern Paris public restrooms
© Meredith Mullins

The last pissotière on the rue Arago is the lone survivor, a functioning, gurgling reminder of a bygone era.

The last surviving pissotière, fondly called a “battered rattle-trap” by writer Henry Miller
© Meredith Mullins

The Future of Change

More Paris changes are coming, especially as the city prepares for the 2024 Olympics. But, as some of the critics of past and present cultural changes have voiced: The city needs progress but also needs “guardians of the spirit of Paris of days past.” A disappearing Paris, erasing history and customs, is not the goal.

Long live the spirit of Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

My “Oh, I See” moment: Let’s move forward, but let’s treasure the past and those cultural icons that are rooted deeply in heritage and customs.

Vive les cafés, les kiosks, les arrêts d’autobus, et la dernière pissotière.

Thank you to MessyNessyChic for information about how to buy a news kiosk.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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