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Holiday Wanderlust in Leipzig!

by Joyce McGreevy on December 16, 2019

People at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, the annual Christmas market in Leipzig, celebrate centuries-old German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The Christmas Market has been a tradition in Leipzig for 600 years.
© Joyce McGreevy

Winter is Wunderbar at Germany’s Christmas Markets

It’s an ink-dark December morning as my sister and I board the train in Berlin. Yet our hearts are light, warmed by the promise of discovery.  Winter wanderlust leads us to Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt one of Germany’s oldest, biggest, and most beautiful Christmas markets!

Now popular around the world, the European tradition of the December market wasn’t always so charming. In the early Middle Ages, it was merely the last chance to stock up on supplies before hunkering down for a long, miserable winter. Visions of survival, not sugar plums, danced through one’s head in those days.

In the 1400s, markets took a festive turn. Carved wooden toys, gingerbread, and other treats began appearing among the sacks of grain and racks of farming tools.

A vendor’s stall selling pine wreaths and boughs at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, the annual Christmas market in Leipzig, reflects one of Germany’s Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Baby, take a bough! The tradition of Christmas wreaths began in Germany.
© Joyce McGreevy

Martin’s Market Effect

Intentionally or not, Martin Luther also gave Germany’s Christmas markets a boost.

According to historian Erika Kohler, the 16th-century church reformer’s “rejection of the veneration of saints . . . supplanted Saint Nicholas as the giver of gifts.” As a result, the most favored day for gift-giving shifted from December 6 to Christmas Eve.

A statue of Martin Luther at a Christmas market in Berlin, Germany reminds the viewer of the church reformer’s role in shaping German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Martin Luther overlooks a Christmas Market near Berlin’s oldest church (1200s)
and the iconic TV Tower (1969).
© Joyce McGreevy

Today, Germany is home to several hundred Christmas markets—Berlin alone has more than 70. Whether you travel west to Cologne, east to Dresden, south to Munich, or points between, you’ll find a market to suit your mood.

A City of Peace and Celebration

For Carolyn and me, that’s Leipzig—the city renowned for classical music, creativity, and the beauty of its Gothic architecture.

A prosperous commercial center, Leipzig revealed even greater worth when, in October 1989, it hosted the largest peaceful protest in East Germany. Historians consider the “Peaceful Revolution” a key  factor in accelerating the Fall of the Berlin Wall.

What to Our Wondering Eyes Did Appear

Half a century later, my sister and I exit the largest terminal railway station in Europe and marvel at what we see:  the entire city center has been transformed into a winter wonderland.

Crowds at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt reflect the wanderlust that draws people from all over the world to Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Christmas markets are made for strolling, not hunting for a parking place.
Most Germans arrive by train or tram.
© Joyce McGreevy

Oh, I see: This must be how Dorothy felt when the doors of the Emerald City swung open. In Leipzig, the Weihnachtsmarkt is a world immersed in magic.

A beautifully decorated vendor’s stall filled with artisan crafts invites shoppers to take a closer look at the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt, one of Germany’s Christmas oldest Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Decorated stalls and goods for all budgets lure shoppers in Leipzig.
© Joyce McGreevy

Wooden holiday huts line every avenue and lane, each hut ornately decorated and laden with artisan goods. Forests of twinkling fir trees sprout from their rooftops. Carousel horses circle, crowds on foot flow by, and a Ferris wheel revolves above gilded spires.

A Ferris wheel’s view of the Christmas market crowds in Leipzig, Germany shows why wanderlust draws people from all over the world to celebrate this popular German Christmas tradition. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Ride the Ferris wheel to see how the holiday bustle takes over the streets of Leipzig.
© Joyce McGreevy

The air is redolent with berry-red glühwein (mulled wine), savory bratwürst, and caramelized sugar. Music fills the air, too—a busker acing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons on accordion; carolers at the Old Town Hall; and trumpeters outside Thomaskirche, the church where Johann Sebastian Bach was choirmaster.

A statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in the moonlight outside Thomaskirche in Leipzig inspires wanderlust to explore more of Germany’s holiday traditions, including Bach’s Christmas cantatas. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Leipzig, Bach wrote choral cantatas at the rate of one a week.
Listen to a seasonal example, here.
© Joyce McGreevy

How German Christmas Traditions Crossed Cultures

Yuletide revelry has been a Leipzig tradition since 1458. Americans, by contrast, did little to “mark the day,” let alone the season, until the 1800s. Then two German immigrants changed everything. Thomas Nast is the better known, the illustrator whose images of Santa Claus became iconic.

Less known is Karl “Charles” Follen, a German refugee, Harvard professor, and abolitionist. In the 1830s, readers of a popular American magazine learned that each December Charles and his wife Eliza surprised guests with something extraordinary: a Christmas tree:

The tree was set in a tub and its branches hung with small dolls, gilded eggshells, and paper cornucopias filled with candied fruit. The tree was illuminated with numerous candles.

A Christmas tree in a red-carpeted, ornate passageway in Leipzig, Germany reflects one of the German Christmas traditions that inspire wanderlust for holiday travel. Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Leipzig’s network of courtyard passages and arcades dates back over 500 years.
© Joyce McGreevy

The spell was cast.  Americans began adopting German Christmas traditions as their own, including glass ornaments, wooden nutcrackers, and  . . .

An Advent wreath set against the beautiful architecture of Leipzig, Germany reflects a German Christmas tradition and inspires wanderlust for holiday travel. Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Advent wreaths and Advent calendars. In Germany, most families make their own.
© Joyce McGreevy

A giant Christmas pyramid, or Weihnachtspyramide, set against the beautiful architecture of Leipzig, Germany reflects a German Christmas tradition and inspires wanderlust for holiday travel. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Christmas pyramids. (A rotor at the top is driven by warm air from lit candles.)
© Joyce McGreevy

A travel mascot with a kinderpunsch mug and crowds enjoying gluhwein in Leipzig reflect the Germany Christmas traditions that inspire wanderlust to visit Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Glühwein (mulled wine) and alcohol-free kinderpunsch. Pay a small pfand (deposit)
for  the option of returning the mug or keeping a holiday souvenir.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Right Pickle

One “German” tradition may not be German at all: the Christmas pickle.

Thanks to demand among tourists, you’ll find this ornament at KaDaWe, Berlin’s massive department store. But mention the Weihnachtsgurke to most Germans and they’ll wonder what-the-dill you’re talking about.

Happily, the murky gherkin myth is our only jarring experience. In Germany’s holiday markets, food is so tasty that even our inability to pronounce certain dishes cannot stop us from trying them. My sister and I sample whatever we see—then walk 6-8 miles a day to keep it from becoming permanent souvenirs.

Waffles with vanilla cream and Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts) are popular traditional holiday foods in Leipzig, a destination that inspires wanderlust to explore Germany’s Christmas markets. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Waffles with vanilla cream are a Leipzig specialty; Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts)
are popular throughout Germany. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Holiday Travel Tips

Ready to plan some Weihnachtsmarkt travel of your own? Most Christmas markets run from late November to January 5.

The Hotel Fürstenhof Leipzig is the perfect setting for a traveler with winter wanderlust, close to one of Germany’s most traditional Christmas markets, the Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Built in the 1770s, Leipzig’s Hotel Fürstenhof is the perfect place
to review your Christmas market itinerary.
© Joyce McGreevy

Pack light to save half your suitcase for holiday gifts. To stay warm without bulk, wear packable down, thermals, and stick to Berlin’s favorite fashion tone: black. Then savor the color at Germany’s Christmas markets.

Happy Wanderlust to all, and to all holiday travelers, a good flight!

A man dressed as Father Christmas, spotted among pedestrians in Leipzig, Germany reflects the fun and whimsy of German Christmas traditions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

It’s beginning to look a lot like . . .!
© Joyce McGreevy

See video of the Leipziger Weihnactsmarkt here.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Do You Know Your Onions?

by Joyce McGreevy on November 26, 2019

Allium flowers reflect the surprising beauty of a staple of every world cuisine, onions. (Image by Sheila Brown, CCO Public Domain)

Take time to smell the . . . onions?
Sheila Brown CCO Public Domain

Crossing Cultures: Peeling the Layers of a Truly Global Food

Quick—what food is a staple of every global cuisine?

Wheat? Nope.  Rice? Guess again. Uh, potatoes? B-z-z-z! Game over!

It’s the onion.

Piles of fresh onions, a food known for crossing cultures, showcase the appeal of this staple of global cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Americans eat 22 lbs. of onions per person per year, placing 5th after Libya (66 lbs).
© Joyce McGreevy

It’s grown in over 175 countries—twice as many as wheat, according to United Nations estimates. The UN Food and Agriculture Organization lists China as the world’s largest producer of onions, followed by India, the United States, Turkey, and Pakistan.

Oh, I see: The vegetable that makes eyes water also makes mouths water across cultures.

Put on your goggles as we peel away the layers to see why onions are the apple of every culture’s eye.

Older Than Thyme?

Onions have been cropping up in recipes for more than 5,000 years. Originating between present-day Iran and Pakistan, they could be grown in all kinds of soil and stored for long periods. As a result, onion farming spread quickly around the world.

How quickly? So quickly that when European explorers ‘”introduced” onions to the Americas, they discovered that onions were already there.

The Chicago River reminds a writer that the city’s name derived from the river’s wild onions, one of many varieties crossing cultures as a staple of global cuisine. (Public domain image by Image by bk_advtravir/Pixabay)

Chicago’s name derives from a Native American word for wild onions that grew along its river.
Image by bk_advtravir/Pixabay

Nature’s Ninja

Experts recently declared onions “nutritional powerhouses,” but many world cultures have known that for thousands of years. Egypt’s pyramid builders ate them every day. So did the armies of Alexander the Great.

Onions also crossed cultures as an early form of medicine. From ancient Rome to early India, onions became a cure-all for everything from blisters to battle wounds.

According to Dioscorides, a first-century Greek physician, Olympian athletes fortified themselves by eating onions, drinking onion juice, and rubbing onions all over their bodies. That’s one way to keep the competition—and everyone else—at bay.

A fresco from Pompeii shows that onions, originally from Asia, have been crossing cultures to become a staple of global cuisine since ancient times. (public domain image)

A fresco from Pompeii reflects onions’ prominence in Roman cuisine.
[public domain]

A faded painting by Vincent van Gogh shows that onions, even aside from being a staple of global cuisines, have inspired art across cultures. (public domain image from Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation))

In 1887, onions and cabbages inspired this now-faded still life by Vincent van Gogh.
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation) [public domain]

Speaking of Onions

Onions have rooted themselves across cultures, sometimes in surprising ways. Take food idioms, for instance:

  • In Britain, “You know your onions” praises someone’s expertise.
  • But in France, S’occupe-toi tes oignons (“Take care of your onions”) means “Mind your own business!”
  • And in Iran, Mam na sar-e piâzam na tah-e piâz (“I’m neither the top nor the bottom of the onion”) means “It doesn’t concern me at all!”
A thick-skinned red onion, believed to predict weather, signifies that, even aside from being a staple of global cuisine, alliums have influenced ideas across cultures. (public domain image from Pxhere)

Can onions predict weather? An old English rhyme says yes: “Onion skins very thin,
/Mild winter coming in./Onion skins very tough,/ Coming winter very rough.”

The Global Prime Ingredient

Today, most world cuisines are built on a base of onions.  Several countries feature their own distinctive version of a “culinary trinity”—a three-ingredient combination used to establish a culture’s signature flavor. Now check out the common denominator:

  • Italian Battuto: onion, garlic, parsley
  • Lousiana Cajun base: onions, bell peppers, and celery
  • Spain’s Sofrito: onions, tomatoes, garlic
  • Portugal’s Refogado: onions, peppers, tomatoes
  • Hungary’s top trio: onion, paprika, lard
  • India’s top trio: onion, garlic, ginger
  • West Africa’s top trio: onions, chili peppers, tomatoes
  • Chinese Xiang Cong base: green onions, ginger, garlic
  • French Mirepoix: onions, carrots, celery
Containers of French mire-poix is one example of a “culinary trinity” with onions, a global food base crossing cultures in a variety of ways. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

It’s my mire-poix and I’ll cry if I want to! But tear-free options are easy to find.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Gallivanting Globe

For travelers who love to cook, onions at farmers markets offer the affordable pleasure of broadening one’s palate.

Produce at Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne market includes alliums like onions, a culture crossing staple of global cuisine. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Shop Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne market to cook Denmark’s famous
Bløde Løg, pan-fried onions.
© Joyce McGreevy

From the Tokyo Long White to the golden German Stuttgart to India’s rosy Arka Bindhu, onions are edible globes that embody global cuisine’s variety.

In Italy, cipolline, flat purple or white onions have a surprisingly buttery taste brought out by simmering or roasting. Cook them low and slow with a dash of espresso and a splash of Montepulciano to make rich gravy for an Italian-style pot roast.

Sautéed ramps in a pan reflect the wide range of the allium family, which includes onions, a staple of global cuisine across cultures. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The Allium family includes the onion’s wild cousin, ramps (above), scallions, shallots, garlic,
leeks, and chives.
© Joyce McGreevy

In France, “gray” shallots, (échalotes grises/griselles) are more colorful than their name suggests. Count on them to add complexity to a creamy vinaigrette.

North American farmers markets are also rich in choices: New York’s potent “Black Dirt” onions, Texan and Georgian Vidalias,  Washington’s Walla Walla and Siskiyou, Hawaii’s Maui onions.

Why Did the Onion Cross the Road?

For sheer global expansiveness, there’s the Egyptian Walking Onion, also known as the Welsh Onion, native to India or Pakistan, and introduced to Europe by the Romans. It’s also the world’s most unusual onion: Bulbs grow up top like fruit on a tree and then topple over, causing new plants to grow—hence the effect of “walking” across a field.

Chive blossoms reflect the delicate side of a pungent staple of world cuisine, onions. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

These are onions? Edible chive blossoms show onions’ more delicate side.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Multi-Layered Experience

Whether you chew it or eschew it, the humble onion has moved across cultures and earned worldwide recognition. It has even moved in and out of the food scene, obsessed over by ancient Mesopotamian cooks, used as European currency, and made into eco-friendly dyes in many countries.

In India, this staple of global cuisine has affected economic policy. In the U.S., onions figured into federal law—after two rapscallions cornered the onion market, causing a nationwide stink. Just listen to the wild, true “Tale of the Onion King” and you’ll really know your onions.

In short, the onion dips into history, runs rings around other veggies, and really stands up to a grilling.

An onion-topped slice of Italian pizza shows why onions are a staple of global cuisine, crossing cultures from Italy to India. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Comacchio, Italy, onions add bite to a slice. How do you like onions?
© Joyce McGreevy

Ready to peel some onions? Our downloadable PDF offers a world tour of recipe ideas for using this most versatile vegetable.

 

Comment on the post below.

Green Grow the Alleys, O!

by Joyce McGreevy on November 11, 2019

A ruelle verte, or green alley, in Montréal, Canada reflects creative problem-solving that helps the planet. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

THIS is a public alley? In Montréal, a ruelle verte (“green alley”) basks in autumn’s glow.
© Joyce McGreevy

Creative Problem-Solving, One Alley at a Time

What does the word alley bring to mind? Most likely someplace gray and utilitarian, a narrow passageway behind buildings. Perhaps it evokes unpleasantness, even menace, as in something “you wouldn’t want to encounter in a dark alley.”

But what if alleys reflected creative problem-solving? In a growing number of cities, they do. Presenting the “green alley,” an urban oasis created from what was once a concrete desert.

The seeds of this eco-friendly concept were sown in Montréal, where green alleys are known as ruelles vertes. 

Two ruelles vertes in Montréal, Canada show how creative problem-solving helps transforms desolate alleys into urban oases. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Over 80% of Montréal residents surveyed have said “Oui!” to the Ruelle Verte project.
© Joyce McGreevy

From No-Go to Where Flowers Grow

How did gray alleys first go green? The road from urban crisis to urban oasis was long, winding, and pot-holed with missteps.

In the 1840s, Montréal’s first alleyways emerged as farmlands were subdivided into small properties. By the 1960s, 300 miles of asphalt alley snaked along the margins of the densely massed buildings. As in most cities, Montréal’s alleys were dreary corridors by day and desolate no-go zones by night.

An urban alley cluttered with trash cans and utilities is a far cry from the green alleys and show the need for creative problem-solving. (Image © Alex Borland)

This is what most of us picture when we hear the word alley.
© Alex Borland [License: CC0 Public Domain]

A Road Paved with Good Intentions

In 1968, five Canadian architecture students with utopian visions set off for an alley in an impoverished Montréal neighborhood. They would install a flowerbed! Paint the walls! Inspire residents to sustain the makeover!

Alas, like the proverbial road paved with good intentions, the results were less than heavenly.

A 1969 documentary film, Les fleurs c’est pour Rosemont, captures the social and class tensions between privileged outsiders who meant well and hardworking locals who were focused on meeting primary needs, not adding primary colors.

Without grassroots engagement, the goal of green alleys had hit a dead end.

Or had it?

Autumn leaves covering a city street humorously suggest that nature’s presence is a reminder to apply creative problem-solving to urban spaces. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Montréal, nature has a way of making its presence known  . . .
© Joyce McGreevy

A Grassroots Response

With every showing, Jacques Giraldeau’s documentary raised the topic anew, prompting lively discussion and engaging diverse perspectives.

Over time, this inspired a more considered approach at a grassroots level. Residents of the same block began talking things over. Who knew better than they the problems and potential of their alleys?

A group of people carrying flowering plants to a city street evokes our need to apply creative problem-solving to urban spaces. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

As neighbors met, ideas began to flower.
© Joyce McGreevy

Together, they came up with proposals and secured the support of city officials. Together, they pooled their resources to turn creative thinking into practical magic.

In 1995, Montréal’s first official ruelle verte opened.

Today, Montréal has 350 green alleys—urban oases where children play, neighbors gather, and visitors find inspiration.

And just as the wind scatters seeds to create new growth, the Montréal model spread to cities around the world.

A collage of plants from a ruelle verte in Montréal, Canada shows how creative problem-solving through green alleys supports wildlife and biodiversity. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Green alleys bring biodiversity into tight urban spaces.
© Joyce McGreevy

More than a Pretty Space

The reasons to revitalize urban alleys go way beyond “outdoor décor.” Green alleys replace asphalt with permeable paving and organic materials. So along with beautification, green alleys make city life better by

  • reducing the “heat island” effect
  • allowing storm water to filter back into the ground
  • improving air quality
  • increasing plant biodiversity
  • providing habitat for birds and insects
  • reinvigorating pedestrian activity
  • encouraging bicycling
  • reducing traffic
  • providing places for children to play
  • fostering increased sociability
  • supporting urban agriculture, one of the factors in erasing “food deserts,” areas where it is difficult to buy affordable, fresh food
  • improving a city’s global livability rating
A collage of children’s toys and invitations to come play, seen on a ruelle verte in Montréal, Canada show how creative problem-solving through green alleys improves children's quality of life. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Hand-painted signs in a ruelle verte invite neighborhood kids to come and play.
© Joyce McGreevy

Green Alley, U.S.A.

In the United States, Michigan is home to one of the most remarkable green-alley transformations. Detroit’s Green Alley, created in 2008-2010 as the city was emerging from bankruptcy, turned a desolate “stretch of pavement, dumpsters, and dreams that had long since broken down” into an oasis that brings together people, nature, and the arts.

Several other cities are following suit—among them Chicago, Los Angeles, Omaha, Austin, and Nashville.  You can see a Los Angeles neighborhood “green team” in action here.

Colorful laundry in a ruelle verte, or green alley, in Montréal, Canada reflects creative problem-solving that makes everyday life better. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The goal of green alleys is not to gentrify, but to make life better citywide.
© Joyce McGreevy

Seeds of Possibility

Given the vastness of public lands and waterways, how important is it to make better use of alleys? By 2050, 75 percent of the world’s population will be living in cities.

How much of an impact could green alleys make? Consider that Chicago alone has 1,900 miles of alleyway to work with. Now factor in that nearly every city in the world (with notable exceptions) is crisscrossed with alleyways.

Yes, cities still need somewhere to put out the garbage. More to the point, say urban environmentalists, we need to reduce waste itself. This has become another focus of creative problem-solving.

According to Daniel Toole, author of Tight Urbanism, Alley Architecture in the U.S., Australia, and Japan, “As waste collection becomes more effective . . . [alleys] present a ridiculous amount of space to be used simply for waste conveyance.”

Oh, I see: For Earth’s sake, even an alley is too precious to waste.

An old metal tub used as a planter and a wall of painted bricks on a ruelle verte in Montréal, Canada show how creative problem-solving through green alleys promotes recycling. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Found objects & recycled resources dress up an alley.
© Joyce McGreevy

Is there a “green alley” near you? Have you seen green alleys in your travels? Have you and your neighbors ever worked together to transform a common outdoor area into a greener, more inviting public space? If so, please share your experiences with our readers!

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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