Jan

A Barking Good Time in Carmel-by-the-Sea

by Meredith Mullins on January 27, 2020

Too cool . . . in Carmel-by-the-Sea
© Meredith Mullins

The Art of Travel in Dog-Friendly Cities

Are you yearning for a spirited run on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world? Are you dreaming of a shopping spree for something sparkly, or a couture halter or tie. Are you thirsty for a round of martinis at Happy Hour, as you relax on a fire-pitted, flower-filled patio?

Running free on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world
© Meredith Mullins

Most humans would treasure such a “to do” list. But this particular agenda caters to the canine vision of paradise. (In fact, muttinis are served during Yappy Hour, to be precise.)

Not Muttini Hour, but Piper enjoys quiet conversation with his friend Catherine.
The Papillon breed can sit at attention, as if on a royal cushion, and is elegant in table etiquette
(that is, only gobbles food if invited).
© Meredith Mullins

This is life in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California—one of the most dog-friendly cities in the world.

One of the dog friendliest cities in the world
© Meredith Mullins

There’s No Place Like Home

Full disclosure. This is the home base for OIC Moments. Although we’re an international publication, and the writers are always roaming the globe, our headquarters are in Carmel, where “village” life takes priority.

Carmel-by-the-Sea: Paradise . . . for humans and dogs.

There’s no place like home. Click your heels three times and you’ll find yourself in Carmel paradise. A city with no neon signs, no fast food, no street addresses, no parking meters, no streetlights, no national chain coffee shops, and a permit needed to wear high heels on the streets (for the health and safety of the women walking the uneven pavements that have been distorted by tree roots).

Dogs don’t need fast food, street addresses, or streetlights.
© Meredith Mullins

And if dogs click their paws three times, they will find themselves in Dog Heaven on Earth.

Who’s a good boy? You’re a good boy.
© Meredith Mullins

Everything is Pawsible

On any given stroll through Carmel, you’ll notice quite a few wagging tails—dog after dog after dog. All sizes. All breeds. All happy.

A typical day in dog-friendly Carmel-by-the-Sea
© Meredith Mullins

There are dog water bowls in front of shops, dog treats at the local bakeries, shops dedicated to every possible pet desire, a water fountain just for dogs in the Carmel Plaza (The Fountain of Woof), biodegradable mitts at the ready, and a range of restaurants and hotels that welcome dogs as guests with their humans.

A city of water bowls
© Meredith Mullins

Dogs are even welcome at some of the spas, and can hop up on the massage table to be with their human (or to get a massage themselves).

The Fountain of Woof, an elegant watering hole in dog-friendly Carmel Plaza
© Meredith Mullins

In the Beginning . . .

The dog legacy started long ago, but many people give credit to animal lovers Dennis LeVett, film star Doris Day, and Doris’ son Terry. Doris and Dennis became the co-owners of the Cypress Inn (on Lincoln Street) in the 1980s and made sure that four-legged friends would be welcome.

A tribute to one of Dennis LeVett’s poodles
© Meredith Mullins

Since then, the hotel has been named “pet friendliest hotel” by many publications.

Orchids and dog biscuits at check-in
© Meredith Mullins

Its amenities include treat bowls throughout the hotel, an outdoor dog-sized shower for rinsing off after a romp at the beach, dog blankets and water bowls in the rooms, and some rooms with balconies so a lucky dog can keep an eye on the passing parade in the street below.

Elegant amenities for all the guests at the Cypress Inn
© Meredith Mullins

The Cypress Inn also has a terrace restaurant and fireside living room that welcome dogs, and, of course, dog cuisine on the restaurant menu, like beef patties and grilled chicken.

Murphy and Bruiser relax on the Cypress Inn terrace.
© Meredith Mullins

The hotel staff keep dog profiles on file, so they can welcome back these four-legged guests by name—especially important since they have so many return visitors.

As Operations Manager Khamis Haji says, “They’d rather you remember their dog’s name than their own. If you think you’ve seen someone love their dog, you haven’t seen anything yet. The people who come to Cypress Inn would do anything for their pets.”

There are not enough treats in the world for the dog you love.
© Meredith Mullins

It’s especially fun to come during special events, like Poodle Day. Dogs spend hours at salons getting groomed and pampered. They then search for an outfit to outdo even the most stunning couture. It’s a dog version of Oscar night.

A map of Carmel notes all the dog friendly places with a tiny dog icon.
© Meredith Mullins

Life Can Be Ruff, But Not in Carmel

The city of Carmel has added to the Cypress Inn culture by making dogs an equal opportunity group. The city map is filled with tiny dog icons, indicating dog-friendly places.

Dog cookies at The Dog House
© Meredith Mullins

Dogs can go not only into designated restaurants and hotels, but they are allowed in most shops. They no longer have to wait patiently outside.

Rocco checks out the “impulse buys” at the counter.
© Meredith Mullins

There are also several boutiques dedicated exclusively to all things pet. You can find haute dog couture, rhinestone collars, designer water bowls, and cocktail toys such as a stuffed Arfsolut Vodka bottle or a Johnnie Dogwalker Ruff Label Old Scottie Whiskey.

Fur and Sparkle: Dog Haute Couture
© Meredith Mullins

Remember Rocco? He’s looking stylish in his new rhinestone collar.
© Meredith Mullins

And when their humans get hungry, they can peruse the local dog menus for delicacies, such as the Hot Diggity Dog (an all-beef kosher hot dog) and the Quarter Hounder (a quarter pound hamburger patty) found at one of the dog-friendly restaurants (Forge in the Forest).

The best of canine cuisine
© Meredith Mullins

For the true sense of freedom, dogs are allowed off leash on Carmel Beach and at Mission Trails Park, as long as they’re under voice command and get along well with their peers.

Bruno wonders what to do with all this freedom.
© Erick Paraiso

All of these special privileges and accoutrements confirm Carmel’s international reputation as one of the most amazing dog-friendly cities on Earth.

Who wouldn’t be this guy’s best friend?
© Meredith Mullins

Best Friends

“I have found that when you are deeply troubled, there are things you get from the silent devoted companionship of a dog that you can get from no other source.”—Doris Day

The “Oh, I see” moments in dog-friendly Carmel-by-the Sea are many. But, for me, the positive energy that dogs bring to the world is undeniably life-changing.

Eternally curious
© Meredith Mullins

They love unconditionally. They are curious about life. They are forever loyal. They look forward to meeting other beings. They are genuine and honest. And they bring out the best in their humans.

What better way to change the world.

Dogs are treated like any other guests at the Cypress Inn.
© Meredith Mullins

Thank you to the City of Carmel and the following dog-friendly Carmel businesses: Cypress Inn, The Dog House, Diggidy Dog, Forge in the Forest, The Animal Friends Rescue Project (Pacific Grove). Visit here for more information on Poodle Day.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Meredith Mullins 4 Comments

Art of Travel/USA

Jan

London, Lost and Foundling

by Joyce McGreevy on January 20, 2020

An array of silver charms seen on Marchmont Street are evocative markers of Britain’s past, inspired by historical tokens at London’s Foundling Museum. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

I spotted one—then several—fascinating artifacts in the pavement. What were they?
© Joyce McGreevy

Historical Markers Lead to Fascinating Discoveries

I’d walked along Marchmont Street often yet never noticed them—small, mysterious objects embedded in the pavement. Unlike London’s “blue plaques,” historical markers at eye level that link figures of the past with buildings of the present, the Marchmont Street objects were easy to overlook.

On Marchmont Street, London a token embedded into the pavement becomes an historical marker for those with the focus to spot it. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Some historical markers hide in plain sight.
© Joyce McGreevy

Here was public art at its least public, eloquent objects underfoot, shyly waiting to be seen and heard. Yet they, too, were historical markers, clues to a poignant chapter of London’s past.

A metal object embedded in the pavement on Marchmont Street marks a poignant chapter of London’s history. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Who had set this into the pavement? And why?
© Joyce McGreevy

Shining a Light on History

Marchmont is one of my favorite London streets, a place of bookshops, cafés, art house cinemas and pocket parks. Of its history, I knew that it was named for an earl, and that he’d been governor of Britain’s first charity organization for children—a home for “foundlings,” as abandoned infants were referred to long ago.

As for the mysterious objects, I’d never noticed them until that morning, when a glint of sunlight on rain-washed pavement caught my eye.

A heart shaped silver token on a London Street is an historical marker and a symbol of the parent-child bond. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

I wondered whose initials these could be.
© Joyce McGreevy

There they were, a scattering of silver tokens. What could these fascinating artifacts mean? I had to find out.

A silver token engraved with a name and birth date and found on a London street becomes an historical marker, prompting the author’s visit to the Foundling Museum. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Why did I sense an urgency about the recording of
this name and birth date?
© Joyce McGreevy

Tokens of Affection

Created by artist John Aldus in 2006, each token represents the bond between parent and child. In the London of the 1700s, that bond was tested to the breaking point as extreme poverty forced countless women to separate from their children.

According to one historian, mothers who relinquished infants to the care of a nearby “hospital” (a term used broadly then) were urged to “affix on each child some . . . distinguishing mark or token, so that the children may be known hereafter, if necessary.”

It might be a heart or a locket, a brooch or a humble bottle tag. Each token signified the hope of reunion.

Where had the children gone? As historical markers, the tokens pointed the way—to the Foundling Hospital, just around the corner.

London’s Foundling Museum, the former Foundling Hospital, contains poignant treasures and surprising historical discoveries. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At what is now the Foundling Museum, the original tokens are still on display.
© Joyce McGreevy

Following the Clues

In its time the Hospital had been a place of hope. Prior to 1739, abandonment was rampant and often fatal. Parishes were overwhelmed and some refused to help children labeled “illegitimate.”

Thomas Coram, a ship captain who’d calmly weathered the traumas of life at sea, was stunned to see children dying in the London streets. For 17 years, Coram campaigned to create a refuge, convincing Marchmont and other prominent Londoners to offer support.

A historical marker tells the story of British sea captain Thomas Coram, who campaigned to create London’s first charity for children, overcoming widespread prejudice about children born into poverty or outside of marriage. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

While a statue of Coram gave few clues to his character,
this historical marker revealed his compassion.
© Joyce McGreevy

Surprising Discoveries

Something I hadn’t expected to see at the former hospital was a collection of priceless paintings. How did they relate to the practical needs of at-risk children? Historical markers solved the mystery.

In 1739 as the Hospital began welcoming children, portraitist William Hogarth found the perfect way to raise public awareness of the charity—he donated several masterpieces and convinced artists like Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough to do the same.

The Foundling Hospital became London’s first public art gallery, a place where people could gather while supporting a worthy cause. Hogarth the great painter had also proved a genius at PR.

A Rousing Chorus of Support

Soon afterward, Hogarth asked a musician friend for a favor. Little did either man guess that it would change history. In 1742, the musician’s latest work had received dismissive reviews at its London debut. Hogarth asked his friend—George Frederic Handel—to try again, this time at the Foundling Hospital.

Buoyed by a rousing Hallelujah chorus, the new, improved performance of Handel’s “Messiah” was a phenomenal success. So many people wanted to see it that performances had to be added and it raised a fortune for the children’s charity. Instead of fading into obscurity as Handel had feared, it became Great Britain’s most beloved choral work.

A London choir evokes the historical connection between Handel’s Messiah and the first British charity for children, Thomas Coram’s Foundling Hospital. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

A London choir’s song has a surprising connection to the Foundling Hospital.
© Joyce McGreevy

One More Surprise in Store

As I left the museum, a volunteer told me to keep an eye out for another historical marker, just up the street. I soon found out why.

An historical marker, one of London’s blue plaques, identifies Charles Dickens’ home on Doughty Street near the Foundling Hospital, a charity that influenced his novel Oliver Twist. (public domain image by Wally Gobetz)

Did this “betoken” one more connection?
© Wally Gobetz/CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

In 1837 author Charles Dickens moved to nearby Doughty Street, taking regular walks through the Hospital grounds. Dickens was so moved by accounts of “good Captain Coram’s heart” that he raised funds for the children’s charity organization and wrote about it in his most famous works. In Dickens’ novel Oliver Twist, the orphaned Oliver’s true identity hinges on the discovery of . . . a token.

A silver token engraved with a flower gathers moss on Marchmont Street, a marker of history, unnoticed by most passersby. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

I had come full circle, back to the tokens of Marchmont Street.
© Joyce McGreevy

Today Is Historically Remarkable

Coram, as the children’s charity organization is known today, has expanded as its goals have evolved. They now include upholding children’s rights and empowering parents to provide a loving, secure environment to their child. The former Foundling Hospital has become a place to celebrate the power of individuals and the arts to change lives.

Oh, I see: When you follow historical markers into the past, you make important discoveries about the present. Which might just inspire you to contribute to making a better future.

See some of the original tokens here. (Scroll down.)

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Joyce McGreevy 3 Comments

Cultural Symbols/Discoveries/England/On Foot/Travels to the Past

Jan

A New Year’s Resolution for Notre Dame

by Meredith Mullins on January 13, 2020

Savoring the moment (two days before the heartbreaking Notre Dame fire).
© Meredith Mullins

Restoration of an Iconic Paris Cultural Symbol

Renew. Restore. Revitalize. Renovate. Refresh. Rejuvenate. Rebuild.

The new year invites certain words into our sphere of action, as we concentrate on new beginnings and life-changing resolutions.

This focus is particularly timely for the monumental restoration project of the fire-damaged Notre Dame Cathedral—a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and a historic cultural symbol for Paris, France, and the world. No matter what religion or spiritual beliefs are personally held, Notre Dame touches people’s souls.

Through rain and snow and gloom of night . . . Notre Dame has survived more than 850 years of challenges. There is hope for the future.
© Meredith Mullins

Living Near An Icon

I live a few minutes from this revered icon and pass it at least once a day. It has never—ever—been just part of the scenery. I always pause—to look. The “Oh, I see” moments are too many to count.

I am inspired by its grandeur—the articulated carvings, the ingenuity of the flying buttresses, and the reflections on the night-time Seine.

I marvel at the rose windows, beautiful from inside and out. I pay humble tribute to the wild and weird gargoyles and chimeras, keeping evil at bay. I am in sync with the melodies of the bells.

Sadly, the view and the sounds have now changed dramatically.

This most visited monument in Europe was devoured by fire on April 15, 2019, as Parisians and the world watched in horror.

First, there were plumes of smoke. Then, skyward flames as the medieval dry oak beams, called “the forest,” ignited like kindling. And when the classic spire wobbled and then crashed into the nave below, there was universal heartbreak.

The pompiers (firefighters) were fearless in controlling the spread of the fire, a task that at times seemed hopeless, but in the end saved the rose windows, the grand organ, and the tower bells.

The first responders and city and church officials were also quick in their rescue of art objects and priceless treasures, such as the Crown of Thorns and the 13^th century tunic worn by St Louis (Louis IX, King of France).

Now, nine months later, a renaissance is in progress. French President Macron vowed immediately after the fire, “We will rebuild.” And, almost as quickly, donations totalling more than $1 billion came pouring in, from more than 350,000 donors—French billionaires as well as people from around the world who made small contributions, just wanting to help.

Macron committed to a restoration timetable of five years that some believe was too ambitious given Notre Dame’s history.

After all, its initial construction took nearly 200 years, and it has undergone various complex multi-year renovations since its origin, including a massive restoration of the western façade and the addition of the (now toppled) lead and wood spire in the mid-1800s by the 30-something architect Viollet-le-Duc and his work partner Lassus.

What Can We See?

As you walk around the cathedral now, you can still feel its mass and magnitude, as well as its fragility. The church is blocked by fences and barricades. Several cranes rise high in the sky.

There is exterior work that shows some of the steps that have been taken. However, most of the activity is hidden from view.

New scaffolding and netting reinforce the structural weaknesses
and prevent damage by falling limestone.
© Meredith Mullins

Inside, robots work tirelessly to clean debris from the center of the cathedral. The structure is too fragile and dangerous for human movement.

The debris is moved to the tents set up in the courtyard in front of Notre Dame where each piece is catalogued by scientists before it is transferred to laboratories for further analysis of the materials.

Critical Next Steps

The work to date has been careful and well-researched. Progress has been made in the cleaning process (especially addressing the lead contamination that occurred in and around the cathedral).

Efforts have also focused on the removal of items for restoration (such as the windows and statues), the cataloguing and analysis of materials, the reinforcement of parts of the exterior structure (such as the flying buttresses), and the preparation for work in the coming months that will analyze the strength of the remaining structure.

The most critical step is the removal of the metal scaffolding that surrounded the spire at the time of the fire. (A spire restoration project was in process.)

This now-tangled, melted mass must be removed piece by piece, without jeopardizing the incredibly fragile underlying structure. This phase will begin early in 2020.

The critical next step is to remove the damaged central scaffolding
that surrounded the now fallen spire.
© Meredith Mullins

Once the scaffolding is removed, workers will be able to access the stone vaulted ceilings to complete the full diagnosis of the structural integrity and plan the next steps of restoration.

Should Notre Dame be rebuilt exactly as it was . . . or should it be “reimagined”
with a more contemporary look?
© Meredith Mullins

Looking To the Future

How will the restored and revitalized Notre Dame look? The debate lingers. Should it be rebuilt just as it was, or should a contemporary innovation be added, using modern materials and building techniques? Should the roof and spire be reconstructed . . . or reimagined?

The politics have yet to be sorted out, with legislation differing between the Senate and the National Assembly.

In the interim, architectural firms and designers are submitting ideas, from a rooftop swimming pool, to a stained glass roof and spire, to a greenhouse sanctuary, to an all-crystal approach.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxfjNfhBEpM/?hl=en

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxfTQrrAjcP/

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

Some architects have proposed a spire that is similar to the Senate’s desire to maintain the look of “its last known visual state” but have been creative in their suggestion of materials (stained glass, recycled ocean plastic, copper, stainless steel, or crystal).

If video does not display, watch it here.

The French Prime Minister proposed an architectural competition shortly after the fire, but this idea may be over-ruled by legislation.

However, one unofficial competition, organized by GoArchitect, has been completed, with an elegant design by two Chinese architects. The design features a mirrored roof and spire that reflect the surroundings in a kaleidoscopic effect.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0r2QZhIwk0/?hl=en

If Instagram does not display, see it here.

Whatever the outcome of the politics and of the project administration by a general, an architect, and an archbishop, who, no doubt, will sometimes have differing views, the restored Notre Dame Cathedral will be a confirmation of history’s will to survive and will be a tribute to the preservation of the past integrated with a vision of the future.

Hopefully, this iconic Paris cultural symbol will continue to inspire the admiration of the world and to elicit poetic descriptions like that of Victor Hugo—“Notre Dame—a symphony in stone.”

Thank you to the city of Paris and Patrick Zachmann of Magnum Photos for the exhibit presented on the north side of the cathedral.

World Views:

Topics

Monthly Archives: January 2020

A Barking Good Time in Carmel-by-the-Sea

The Art of Travel in Dog-Friendly Cities

There’s No Place Like Home

Everything is Pawsible

In the Beginning . . .

Life Can Be Ruff, But Not in Carmel

Best Friends

London, Lost and Foundling

Historical Markers Lead to Fascinating Discoveries

Shining a Light on History

Tokens of Affection

Following the Clues

Surprising Discoveries

A Rousing Chorus of Support

One More Surprise in Store

Today Is Historically Remarkable

A New Year’s Resolution for Notre Dame

Restoration of an Iconic Paris Cultural Symbol

Living Near An Icon

What Can We See?

Critical Next Steps

Looking To the Future