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Watery Wanderlust: The City of Spas

by Meredith Mullins on August 26, 2019

The power of water
© Meredith Mullins

Going with the Flow in the Thermal Baths of Budapest

It’s summer. And in the hot Northern Hemisphere, our thoughts turn to the cooling force of water. Beaches. Rivers. Swimming pools. Waterfalls. Fountains. We travel in search of comfort.

Water wanderlust can lead us to many destinations, but none more water themed than Budapest—the “City of Spas.”

Budapest is famous for its parliament building . . . but also for its thermal baths.
© Meredith Mullins

There is much to see in Budapest, including

  • the Neo-Gothic Hungarian parliament building,
  • the elegant State Opera House,
  • the exotic beauty of the Matthias Church,
  • the vistas of the Fisherman’s Bastion,
  • the ornate St Stephen’s Basilica, and
  • the lively Great Market Hall (a covered market designed by Gustave Eiffel).

If you’re not spending all your time relaxing in a spa, the Great Market Hall offers
characters, chaos, and color.
© Meredith Mulins

However, throughout this city rich in history, it is easy to see that water holds a place of honor. Oh, I see. For Hungarians (and visitors to Hungary), water is a constant presence. It is sport, medicine, exercise, relaxation, transportation, and fun. It is a life force.

Water: summer fun
© Meredith Mullins

The Danube River is a central artery, running through the city and dividing the old city of Buda on the west side from the newer, more modern eastern side, known as Pest.

The city is also home to a variety of thermal baths, many showcasing past eras of history, from Ottoman influence to Art Nouveau.

At any given time, whether a hot summer afternoon or a cold gray winter morning, water-loving Hungarians and Budapest visitors are immersed — either swimming in cool pools, relaxing muscles and bones in warm water, or soaking in the medicinal baths fed by the city’s more than 100 thermal hot springs.

Water immersion
© Meredith Mullins

Time for Research

What better way to conduct water wanderlust research than to swim and soak in Budapest’s offerings. It’s a tough job, but someone has to rise to the challenge. So, I made several trips to Budapest, in all seasons, to see what the attraction was.

At the end of several soaking/swimming/floating experiences, my vote for favorite bathing setting is a tie between the Gellért Baths and the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath.

Floating in another era
© Meredith Mullins

Another Era: Gellért Baths

The Gellert Baths are located in the Art Nouveau Hotel Gellért, built in the early 1900s on the Buda side of the river. As you walk in, you feel you are entering a time warp or a movie set from another era.

Carved columns and colorful tiles make for an elegant pool setting.
© Meredith Mullins

The main pool is palatial, with carved roman columns, marble sculptures, and mosaic tiles. The various thermal baths are fed by the mineral springs of Gellért Hill, said to be helpful for joint problems, disk issues, and circulatory trouble.

The complex offers 10 indoor pools and 3 outdoor pools, including plunge pools, and a pool that generates artificial waves.

An aquarium of human activity
© Meredith Mullins

In one of the underground passageways, the swimmers become entertainment, like aquatic specimens of the deep, through small aquarium-like windows.

When you leave Gellért after a day of water, you will most likely feel like a wet noodle, have super flexible joints, and smell of minerals.

A moment of quiet at the indoor thermal pool
© Meredith Mullins

Checkmate: Széchenyi Bath

The Széchenyi Bath is the largest medicinal bath in Europe, with water supplied by two thermal springs. The 15 indoor pools and 3 outdoor pools are housed in a palace complex in Budapest’s City Park.

The thermal water is said to be high in calcium, magnesium, and hydrogen carbonate, all believed to be good for joint pain and arthritis.

Relaxing with a game of chess
© Meredith Mullins

I love watching people here enjoying all forms of water—from relaxing in warm outdoor pools throughout the year while playing chess to being pounded by spraying jets to get the blood flowing. Although Széchenyi can sometimes feel like the Grand Central Station of pools, the people-watching aspect of a visit is a never-ending source of entertainment.

The Széchenyi Thermal Baths
© Meredith Mullins

And, if you stay into the night, the latest craze is “sparties” (spa parties)— with DJs, films, and laser shows throughout the summer.

The Ottoman Spas

Also in the running for interesting spas were the Rudas, Kiraly, and Veli Bej baths. All of these venues are reminiscent of Ottoman rule, with darkened interiors under domes dotted with tiny holes for streaming light. A wonderful, mysterious ambiance where you can lose yourself in time.

Losing yourself in time and space
© Meredith Mullins

Finding Fürdő

To enjoy this life of water wanderlust in Budapest, all you need is a swimsuit, some flip flops, a towel, and the word fürdő on the tip of your tongue— the Hungarian word for bath or spa.

And no matter what your ultimate goal for your time in the thermal baths, I can almost guarantee that you will feel better for having been a part of the Hungarian water culture. I know I did.

Keeping fürdő at the tip of your tongue
© Meredith Mullins

Gellért Baths at H-1118 Budapest, Kelenhegyi út 4.

Széchenyi Baths at 9-11 Allatkerti korut Street, Budapest, District 14

Rudas Baths at Rudas Gyógyfürdő és Uszoda, H-1013 Budapest, Döbrentei tér 9.

Kiraly Baths at 38 Nepfurdo Street Budapest, H-1138

Veli Bej Baths at 1023 Budapest Frankel Leó u. 35.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Wanderlust Leads to . . . Libraries?

by Joyce McGreevy on August 20, 2019

Allèe des bouquinistes, an open-air bookshop at the Grande Bibliothèque, Montréal, Canada inspires wanderlust to travel to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Montréal, library walls open up to create book stalls in summer.
© Joyce McGreevy

A Catalog of Reasons for Travelers to Check Out the Local Library

When you travel, how often has wanderlust led you to a library?

  • Once—for free WiFi or a public restroom.
  • Never. My Kindle is all the “library” I need.
  • The library? Seriously? I’m on vacation!

Actually, library tourism is trending. There are stacks of reasons to add public libraries to your travel itinerary:

Cultural Experiences

Castles and cathedrals aren’t the only places for cultural discovery. One of the world’s newest libraries, Tūranga Library in Christchurch, New Zealand, is not to be missed. Even its entrance expresses whakamanuhiri, the Maori principle of hosting travelers and other visitors.

A statue of the Maori hero Tāwhaki at the Tauranga Library in Christchurch, New Zealand, inspires wanderlust to travel to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The design of Tūranga Library is based on the Maori concept of mātauranga mana whenua,
the body of knowledge that originates from the people of this place.
© Joyce McGreevy

Staircases at the Tauranga Library in Christchurch, New Zealand, inspire wanderlust to travel to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The spectacular staircases allude to Tāwhaki, a mythical being who climbs
to the heavens in a quest for knowledge.
© Joyce McGreevy

Culinary Experiences

Some of the best international dining experiences are available at libraries. The vast majority offer bargain prices and many feature organic local ingredients.

Brunch at Tūranga features chocolate rye porridge, coriander-chili infused dhal, and oat banana pancakes with candied walnuts and mango coconut foam. At libraries around the world, I’ve savored sustainably harvested seafood, vegan and gluten-free entrées, and traditional desserts—four-star feasts at one-star prices.

A collage of library cafes, coffee, café sandwiches, and a woman reading, shows why wanderlust leads travelers to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Authentic local cuisine is served at libraries around the world.
© Joyce McGreevy

The Beer!

In Copenhagen, you could squeeze into pricey places where views of the canals are obscured by selfie-takers. Or, you could stroll to a café in the Black Diamond, the sparkling glass and granite extension of the Royal Danish Library.  Take your cold local beer outside, relax in a beach chair, and watch the world go by as sunshine warms the waterfront.

The interior of the Black Diamond, part of Copenhagen’s Royal Danish Library, shows why wanderlust leads travelers to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

The Danish Royal Library offers ancient and contemporary architecture,
a concert hall, restaurants, and art exhibits.
© Joyce McGreevy

Social Experiences—or Solitude

Library architect Carsten Auer notes, “The modern library is . . . a place where you can meet people or be ‘alone together,’ enjoying sharing a social and recreational space with others, even if you are not engaging directly with them.”

Public libraries spark conversations with locals by building in a variety of communal seating areas and by offering free concerts, workshops, craft-making stations, participatory theater, and other opportunities  for interaction.

Library patrons playing with board games and puzzles at at the Tauranga Library in Christchurch, New Zealand, reflect the entertaining side of public libraries around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At many libraries, anyone can pull up a chair to enjoy board games
or a puzzle in good company.
© Joyce McGreevy

Libraries also make it easy to find peace and quiet by providing private and small-group spaces. One of the busiest libraries in North America, Montréal’s national library, or Grande Bibliothèque, offers 10,000 visitors a day an oasis of calm.  When Montréal’s weather extremes drive you indoors, skip the malls and come here instead.

Public libraries’ rich spectrum of options covers everything from blissful inspiration to sheer entertainment. In Montréal, film buffs and language learners will instantly lose themselves in the multimedia treasures on offer. But if you’d rather shop, you’re in luck. The library’s gift store is superb, a mini-museum curating the best of Québecoise design.

Meanwhile, sports fans can see an exhibition on hockey, adolescents can access “teens-only” high-technology workshops, and little ones can explore play areas and storytelling alcoves. There’s something for everyone.

Library patrons at the Grande Bibliothèque, Montréal, Canada, include tourists with wanderlust to travel to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

At Montréal’s  inspiring Grande Bibliothèque, “Everything Is Possible.”
© Joyce McGreevy

Bonus Travel Discoveries

Many libraries are surrounded by marvelous (and free) attractions that visitors might otherwise miss. Making the quick trip by Metro to the Grande Bibliothèque also led me to the Jardins Gamelin, one of the most unusual parks in the city, and the Galerie de l’UQAM, where the contemporary art changes almost daily.

Even the library’s alley hides wonderful surprises. Glass wall panels open up to transform it into the Allée des bouquinistes, with  secondhand books for sale. The alley also marks the start of the Latin Quarter’s 30-mural art trail.

A detail from a rebus mural at the Grande Bibliothèque, Montréal, Canada, shows why wanderlust leads travelers to public libraries around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

Can you decode this clue from a rebus mural behind a Montréal library?
(“A library” is une bibliothèque in French, and “water,” or eau in French, supplies the “o.”)
© Joyce McGreevy

Rare Art Treasures—Minus the Long Lines

Italy’s museums at peak season can make you feel like a salmon swimming upstream. But Italian libraries present frescoes, sculpture, paintings, and other feasts for the eye. In Ferrara, minutes from Bologna, the Biblioteca Ariostea is an art lover’s paradise set within a 14th-century palace. Walk right in—there’s no waiting, no need to buy tickets, no jostling crowds.

Frescoes on the walls of the Biblioteca Ariostea in Ferrara, Italy show why wanderlust leads travelers to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

In Ferrara, Italy, public library rooms reveal one priceless art treasure after another.
© Joyce McGreevy

Other reasons to “bookmark” the world’s libraries include:

  • gorgeous travel books, images, maps, and 3-D models
  • state-of-the-art genealogical resources (one so user-friendly it took me 2 minutes to discover a likely ancestor)
  • sweeping views and beautiful gardens (many featuring native plants)
A rooftop garden at the Tauranga Library in Christchurch, New Zealand, inspires wanderlust to travel to public libraries, or library tourism, around the world. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

From rooftops to street level,  library gardens and views are star attractions.
© Joyce McGreevy

Albert Einstein said, “The only thing that you absolutely have to know is the location of the library.” Oh, I see: When wanderlust leads to libraries, travel genius can result. So can fun, friendship, and cultural insights.

No wonder library tourism is trending. Your library experiences might just transform the world into an open book.  Now that’s a travel tale worth checking out.

Comment on the post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Cultural Encounters with a Competitive Edge

by Meredith Mullins on August 12, 2019

Bullfrog who is part of one of the most bizarre competitions in the world and also a part of the cultural encounters of competitions around the world. (Image ©

Is this the celebrated jumping frog of Calaveras County?
© iStock/Stevelenzphoto

Five of the Most Fascinating Competitions in the World

Grab your frog, your worm, your spouse, your crying baby, your cheese-chasing outfit, your cherry pits, your cockroaches, and your mustache wax.

Let the games begin.

From Calaveras frog jumping, to British cheese chasing, to Japanese baby crying, to Finnish wife carrying, to Indian mustache competitions, it’s time for some competitive cultural encounters.

What is it that drives us to compete . . . besides that thrill of victory? And, more to the point, what is it that drives us to compete in competitions unique to our cultures?

Most competitors in these kinds of contests say the same thing: it’s just fun.

But it may also be the cultural connection. Often, the competition is part of a country’s traditions and customs, shared with pride.

We will leave cherry pit spitting, worm charming, and cockroach racing for another day and focus here on an OIC Moments introduction to five of the world’s most fascinating competitions.

Hip hop at its best
Courtesy of Frogtown

A Hip Hop Dream: The Calaveras Frog Jumping Competition

Mark Twain made this competition famous in his first well-known short story, “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County,” based on a tale he heard in a bar in Angel’s Camp, California during the gold rush.

A bar bet was offered that the jumping frog “Dan’l Webster” could outjump any frog around. A city slicker visitor took the bet and, while Dan’l Webster’s owner went to get the city slicker a frog to compete, the visitor filled Dan’l Webster with buckshot.

When the race started, Dan’l Webster was, as Mark Twain described, “planted like a building.” He was so heavy he could not jump. So the city slicker’s frog won the race and the $40 bet.

Fast forward to the present, where, each May in Angel’s Camp (since 1928), the frog jumping competition continues (minus the buckshot).

Frogs, like current champion Rosie the Ribeter (holding the world record since 1986 of nearly 22 inches), Jumping Jack Flash, E. Davey Croakett, Springs, You Can Croak, San Francisco Warty Niners, and Will B Happening, compete to jump the farthest, cheered on and guided by their frog jockeys.

Slum Frog Millionaire may hold the record for the worst jump, says his frog jockey.
© Merita Callaway

The frogs rest at the “frog spa” until it’s their turn to race. Then they are placed on a small green faux lily pad. They must start with all four feet (including toes) on this “launch” pad.

The next three hops are what count, and must be completed within one minute.

The frog jockeys, naturally, want their frogs to jump in a straight line. However, frogs have their own idea about how, where, and when to hop, making the competition a bit unpredictable.

Some frogs just sit (an homage to Dan’l Webster?), even though their jockeys are yelling, pounding on the stage, and doing anything they can think of to motivate their frog.

How do you motivate a frog?
Courtesy of Frogtown

Some frogs place height rather than distance as a priority, and some make a good first jump but then zig zag or U-turn resulting in a short measurement or even a negative distance.

If a frog breaks Rosie the Ribeter’s world record, an additional $5,000 is part of the prize. However, no recent frog has come close to the 1986 record.

So . . .  search for that perfect frog from that secret place for the 2020 competition and begin the training regime. And don’t worry . . . be hoppy.

Don’t worry . . . be hoppy.
© Merita Callaway

Extreme Cheese

What better way to welcome spring than to tumble down a steep hill in pursuit of a wheel of Double Gloucester cheese?

The annual Cooper’s Hill Cheese-Rolling and Wake in the Gloucestershire, England countryside attracts locals as well as daredevils (or cheeselovers?) from around the world.

The competition, which is thought to have begun long ago as a pagan rite of spring, has been popular since the 1800s and was first mentioned in writing in 1826.

The thrill must be in the “journey,” not the “destination,” since no one ever catches the cheese. The Double Gloucester gets a head start and is heavy enough to reach speeds of up to 70 miles per hour.

Chasing the cheese on Cooper’s Hill
© iStock/Raylipscombe

The contestants, on the other hand, slide, stumble, dive, somersault, flip, fly, and bounce like rubber balls down Cooper’s Hill—like toy humans whose owners should know better than to hurl their breakable bodies down such a steep slope.

Every year, there are injuries such as fractured bones, bruises, sprains, dislocations, and torn muscles. But everyone seems to have a good time, in spite of the inherent danger. If it’s misty or raining (as it often is in the Cotswolds), the steep hill becomes even more challenging.

Not only do the competitors have to scramble down the hill in pursuit of the cheese, they have to claw their way up the hill to position themselves for the start of the race.

The competition is so wrought with injuries that the official competition was closed in 2010. The rogue competition continues.

If video does not display, watch it here.

The winner is awarded the wheel of Double Gloucester cheese—made by the same cheesemaker for the past 30+ years). (It is interesting to note that during WW II rationing, the competition used a wooden cheese with a tiny bit of real cheese in the center.)

What is the secret to success? As one of the past winners offered, “If you go fast from the beginning, the hill will do the rest.”

What seems to work best is a basic philosophy of reckless abandon.

The baby crying brings good health, according to Japanese tradition.
© iStock/Masaru123

Why Would You Want To Make a Baby Cry?

The Naki Sumo baby crying competition has the answer to why it’s not cruel to make a baby cry—and why a parent pays $150 to enter a baby in this competition.

In the case of this 400-year-old Japanese tradition, the baby’s cries ward off evil spirits as well as portending good health for the baby who breaks into tears first. (A rare instance where being good natured doesn’t count for much.)

The calm before the crying storm at the Sensoji Temple in Tokyo
© iStock/Nanostockk

The April competition takes place at several Japanese shrines, but the most famous event is at the Sensoji Temple in Tokyo.

Babies compete in pairs and are held by sumo wrestlers who are, on their own, some might say a bit scary. But it is up to the sumo referee to incorporate clever scare tactics to get the babies to cry.

The referee can wear a mask (often the bird demon tengu), can shout, or can just yell Nake Nake (Cry! Cry!).

The first baby to cry is the winner. If the babies cry at the same time, the loudest crier is the winner.

If video does not display, watch it here.

Strength and Endurance in Wife Carrying

Some competitors in the Wife-Carrying Competition seem to think its Finnish origin is because, after a long dark winter, people just want to go a bit crazy.

Wife Carrying gains popularity.
© Nick Lambert/Sunday River Resort

Others believe the tradition of Wife Carrying has deep roots in local history. In the Finnish legend, “Ronkainen the Robber,” a gang of men pillage villages and carry the women off on their backs to marry them.

Today, in Sonkajärvi, Finland, the Wife-Carrying Competition takes place on a 278-yard obstacle course that is said to be the distance needed to be safe from these pursuers of yore.

The man carries the woman through the course on a sand track with several obstacles, including waist-high water.

A challenging obstacle course makes wife carrying more difficult than you might think.
© Nick Lambert/Sunday River Resort

The woman doesn’t have to be the wife of the man. The man can convince his wife, “steal a wife” (or so say the organizers), or select any woman who is willing to be carried through an obstacle course on his back.

The woman must be at least 18 years of age and weigh at least 108 pounds (although these rules may differ depending on the country of the competition). Some competitions require helmets for the women; some do not.

The winner receives the trophy, as well as the “wife’s” weight in beer. Awards are also given to the most entertaining couple, the best costume, and the strongest carrier.

Wife Carrying is gaining popularity around the world. Competitions are also held in North America, Poland, Australia, China, and England.

Mustache competition contenders
© Meredith Mullins

Mustache Magnificence

There are mustache and beard competitions around the world, where categories like most creative beard, most realistic mustache, most Dali-esque mustache, best Fu Manchu, best sideburns, and fullest beard are in the spotlight. Countries vie to be the next facial hair leader.

For a different kind of contest, we travel to India and the mustache competition at the Pushkar Camel Fair, where length, creativity, and volume are the focus of attention.

Men grow their mustaches for years in anticipation of entering the competition. They arrive with their mustaches tightly coiled or carefully woven, so that they can unfurl them dramatically for the crowds.

A winner
© Meredith Mullins

Some swing their mustaches like lassos. Some raise their arms triumphantly, mustache ends in each hand. Some just strut and smile because they know their mustaches are enviable. They don’t need to win a prize to tell them that.

Each year that these unique competitions occur, they become more embedded in the culture’s customs and traditions. Yes, everyone is there to have fun, but they’re also part of a cultural encounter, which gives them further insight into the country’s traditions. And that makes the competitions even more meaningful.

To prepare for next year’s fascinating competitions:

Calaveras Frog Jumping at Frogtown in Angel’s Camp: May 14-17, 2020

Cooper’s Hill Cheese-Rolling and Wake in Gloucestershire, England: May 25, 2020

Baby Crying Competition in Tokyo, Japan: April 26, 2020 (Of course to enter this one, you have to have a baby born in 2019.)

Wife Carrying Competition in Finland: July 2020

Wife Carrying Competition in North America: October 12, 2019, Sunday River Resort

Pushkar Camel Fair in India: November 4-12, 2019

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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