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Finding the Spirit of Monet’s Giverny Gardens

by Meredith Mullins on July 9, 2018

View of the Japanese bridge with wisteria in Monet's Giverny Gardens, travel inspiration for the senses. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Monet’s Giverny Gardens
© Meredith Mullins

Travel Inspiration for the Senses

Finding a moment of solitude in Monet’s Giverny gardens may not be easy, with the constant parade of visitors. But the colors, smells, sounds, and spirit offer travel inspiration of the best kind.

A visit is worth the investment of time, and the search for quiet and connection is rewarding in a world that inspired Monet’s painting for more than 40 years.

Once the selfies are done and most of the visitors have left in the late afternoon (or when you’re visiting in the early mist of morning), there is a magic moment when the subtleties and power of nature emerge.

Monet's Giverny gardens with azaleas and house in the distance, travel inspiration for Monet fans and artists. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Becoming part of the natural rhythms
© Meredith Mullins

Fish jump in the waterlily pond, as if they are finally free to leap skyward. Frogs croak in lively amphibious conversation. Birds dance across the now-less-traveled paths and come alive with song in the trees. And the flowers seem to be swaying in the gentle light.

This is a time when you can really look—when you can feel Monet’s artistic heart and soul and when you can sit, as he did, feeling the natural rhythms of the earth.

As Monet said, “The richness I achieve comes from Nature, the source of my inspiration. I perhaps owe becoming a painter to flowers.”

The Clos Normand garden at Monet's Giverny Gardens, travel inspiration for visitors and artists to Monet's gardens. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The Clos Normand
© Meredith Mullins

Monet’s Greatest Masterpiece

Monet’s gardens were one of his greatest masterpieces. The two parts of the gardens provide different sensory experiences, different kinds of inspiration.

The flower garden (called the Clos Normand) near the two-story pink stucco house was an orchard and kitchen garden when Monet moved into the house in 1883.

Monet's house at Giverny gardens with spring tulips, travel inspiration for visitors and artists following Monet's path. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Spring tulips near the pink stucco house
© Meredith Mullins

Monet redesigned the hectare of land into a garden full of color-themed borders, fruit trees, and thousands of flowers that changed with the seasons, including tulips, irises, poppies, roses, sunflowers, dahlias, asters, peonies, foxgloves, and many more.

The central alley is covered by iron arches where roses climb during June and under which nasturtiums begin their zealous crawl in July and August.

Monet's Clos Normand garden and the grand alley, travel inspiration in Giverny gardens. (Image © Elizabeth Murray.)

The grand allée with summer roses
© Elizabeth Murray

Monet was sensitive to the garden palette, but he was not a slave to organization and constraint. He let the flowers grow freely. He mixed the wild and cultivated, the simple with the rare.

In later years, he developed a passion for botany, and frequently introduced new plants into the garden. “All my money goes into my garden,” he said. But that is what made him happy.

Window curtain and view of garden, travel inspiration at Monet's Giverny gardens. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The enticing view from Monet’s window
© Meredith Mullins

Ten years after his arrival in Giverny, he bought land across the road and dug a pond, in the style of the Japanese aesthetic he so admired. Because the Water Garden (Jardin d’eau) was fed by a stream from the river Epte, his neighbors were opposed, thinking that all the strange plants would poison their water.

Waterlily pond in the rain, travel inspiration at Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Even in the rain, the Japanese waterlily pond is beautiful.
© Meredith Mullins

He designed the water garden with a Japanese bridge covered by wisteria and with winding paths of weeping willows, bamboo, azeleas, ferns, and rhododendrons. The famous waterlilies (nymphéas) bloom in multicolors in the summer.

Waterlily on Monet's waterlily pond, travel inspiration at Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The nymphéas that spoke to Monet’s spirit
© Meredith Mullins

It was with this theme of water that he explored layers of reality and dream; inversions; reflections; and the dance between earth, water, and sky.

Paintings that Come to Life

In Monet’s paintings, we can experience his garden in all its impressionist glory. When in the garden, however, the paintings come to life.

The many “Oh, I see” moments that are a part of Monet’s own discoveries bring all the richness of his artistry into three-dimensional wonder.

Azaleas at the Japanese waterlily pond, travel inspiration at the Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The paintings come to life when you’re alone at Giverny gardens.
© Meredith Mullins

As American artist Kathy Calcagno lamented after seeing a Monet exhibit at a museum in the U.S., “I remember being filled with longing to visit those flowers . . . to see the light reflecting off ponds and trees.”

Kathy fulfilled that dream as part of a June workshop in Giverny by gardener/artist/author Elizabeth Murray—who offered a week of visits to the garden before and after visiting hours.

Elizabeth suggests entering Monet’s garden in a quiet, respectful way, as you would enter a sacred space, such as a temple or cathedral.

Painting in the Clos Normand, travel inspiration in Monet's Giverny Gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Feeling Monet’s spirit
© Meredith Mullins

“This is when you can feel Monet’s spirit most,” she says of the garden, which she calls a family member, since she has spent more than half her life visiting the garden, photographing it, painting it, studying it, and writing and speaking about it.

As American Irene Patton noted after a week in the garden with Elizabeth’s workshop, “The layers in the gardens are incredible. Every day brings a new discovery. You have to be open and take your time.”

Boats in the waterlily pond, travel inspiration from Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Many layers to discover
© Meredith Mullins

Preparing for the Moment

 One way to prepare for the multisensory experience of being in Monet’s gardens is to visit some of the museums in Paris that best represent his work.

The Musée d’Orsay and the Marmottan museum offer excellent collections.

However, the must-see museum is the Musée de l’Orangerie, with its installation of eight compositions created during the last 30 years of Monet’s life and inspired by the waterlilies and the flora around the Japanese pond at Giverny.

A panorama of Monet's Nymphéas at the Musée de l'Orangerie, travel inspiration for Monet's Giverny Gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A (slightly distorted) view of Monet’s unique installation in the Musée de l’Orangerie
© Meredith Mullins

The panels were specifically made for the two rooms with curved walls, designed in the shape of an infinity symbol.

The 100 linear meters of Giverny landscape were intended to surround viewers, giving them, in Monet’s words, “an illusion of an endless whole, of a wave with no horizon and no shore.”

Monet offered this project to the French State as a symbol of peace on the day after the Amistice of World War I.

One of the nymphéas panels at the Musée de l'Orangerie, travel inspiration for Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

One of the eight Nymphéas pieces at the Musée de l’Orangerie
© Meredith Mullins

A Game of Faces

At the risk of being called crazy (again), I now include my own theory of the many faces of Monet. Over the years, as I meditated on the expansive panels in the Orangerie, I began to discover many hidden faces.

Detail of waterlily painting from the Musée de l'Orangerie with a face, travel inspiration for the Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Do you see the self-portrait of Monsieur Monet himself?
© Meredith Mullins (Detail from Monet painting at the Musée de l’Orangerie)

Whether intended or not by Monet, the faces are clearly there (aren’t they?), although I have read no research about them. When I mention them to curators, they give me the knowing look of a mental institution guardian.

However, in the spirit of OIC Moments fun, I include photos of panel details and challenge you to find the faces.

Detail of a nymphéas panel at the Musée de l'Orangerie, travel inspiration for Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.

Can you find the face in this detail of a Nymphéas panel?
© Meredith Mullins
(Detail from Monet painting at the Musée de l’Orangerie)

And, in the spirit of OIC Moments travel inspiration, I invite you to visit the Giverny gardens and to take time to smell and see and hear the gardens.

Monet’s life was a true collaboration with a living, growing work of art and architecture. We are privileged to be a part of his artistry.

Man with umbrella, travel inspiration in Monet's Giverny gardens in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

In all seasons, in all weather . . .
© Meredith Mullins

For more information about the Giverny gardens, which are open from March through October, visit Giverny Monet’s Gardens and the Giverny Fondation Claude Monet.

For more information about Elizabeth Murray’s Giverny workshops and her books, including Monet’s Passion, visit her website.

Also, take a look at the Musée de l’Orangerie, Musée d’Orsay, and the Musée Marmottan.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

Traveling the World of Birds

by Joyce McGreevy on July 2, 2018

A rainbow and bush parrot in New Zealand suggest a brighter future for native birds around the world. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

New Zealand birds need vast areas of pest-free forest to survive.
© Joyce McGreevy

Winging It in New Zealand

Some of the best reasons for traveling the world are birdbrained. Consider New Zealand, home to some of the planet’s most amazing birds. But what makes New Zealand native birds remarkable has also made them vulnerable.

A black-billed gull remind a birdwatcher traveling the world that many New Zealand native bird species are in trouble. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)

New Zealand’s black-billed gulls are the world’s most threatened gull. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Avian Nation

New Zealand is unique. Until about 800 years ago, its only land mammals were species of bat. With virtually no predators, many bird species evolved beyond fight-or-flight. Why fly when you can safely nest on solid ground?

Over time, the land became home to more species of flightless birds than anywhere else on Earth.

A forest in New Zealand was a paradise for native birds until humans traveling the world arrived as settlers. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

With 80% forest and 0% mammals, New Zealand pulsed with the life of birds.
© Joyce McGreevy

Sitting Ducks

What happened next? People.

As humans arrived, they introduced predators—some deliberately, some as shipboard stowaways. Meanwhile, they cleared forests and hunted.

Some birds would gobble up fermented berries and drunkenly doze off. Hunting became as easy as “scoop it and soup it.”

Soon one of the last places on Earth colonized by humans suffered one of the worst biological losses.

Size Didn’t Save Them

The most astounding lost birds were moa. Some stood 13-foot tall and weighed 600 pounds.

Moa bones and a drawing of moa remind viewers that many of New Zealand’s flightless birds are extinct. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

Moa once ruled New Zealand forestland.
© Joyce McGreevy

But after millions of years of safe grazing, moas ended up in cooking pits and their habitat was destroyed.

Since human arrival, at least 51 New Zealand bird species have become extinct.

Protecting the World of Birds

Today, New Zealand goes all-out to restore habitat and protect wildlife. Biosecurity at Customs is strict, so leave those snacks on the plane and thoroughly scrub outdoor gear.

One-third of the country is national parkland. Avian projects by the NZ Department of Conservation engage hundreds of volunteers and are models for wildlife organizations around the world.

The piwakawaka or fantail is New Zealand bird native bird worth traveling the world to see. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

In flight, piwakawaka, or  fantails, are as fluttery as butterflies. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Hidden Birds

Which bird tops the perch? Kiwis, of course! About the size of a hen, the kiwi is wingless aside from nubs under its hairlike feathers. It also has nostrils at the end of its long beak.

The kiwi, a flightless bird, is New Zealand’s national icon. (Image courtesy of New Zealand Tourism)

Despite their awkward appearance, kiwis can outrun humans.
© Tourism New Zealand

As national symbols, kiwis appear everywhere in New Zealand. In the 1800s, kiwis were pictured on regimental badges, and during WWI “Kiwi” became a nickname for New Zealand soldiers, one since adopted by the general population.

Seeking kiwi (the avian variety) can feel like falling for a prankster’s snipe hunt. Kiwi is Maori for “hidden bird” and most species are nocturnal. While guides cannot guarantee you’ll see one, outfits like Real Journeys offer a 50% refund if you don’t. Either way, you’ll have a magical hike.

Such was the case when I went birdwatching on New Zealand’s Stewart Island.

“Don’t they realize we drove all the way from Auckland?” said one disappointed visitor afterward. Alas, kiwis really don’t care how far one has traveled. Nature is not a theme park.

Besides, we’d had the pleasure of sailing to Glory Cove, and then walking in silence, illuminated only by moon and stars. In this loud, light-polluted age, that, too, is a rare experience.

Precocious Parrots

Other terrestrial birds are never shy. Each morning a cheeky kākā, or olive-brown bush parrot, stopped by my garden to pluck wild fruit. Then it would perch nearby, deftly removing the peel.

The bush parrot, or kaka, is a New Zealand native bird. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

One bush parrot eats “brekkie,” while another (below) takes wing.
© Joyce McGreevy

A bush parrot, or kaka, displays its wings at Zealandia, a New Zealand bird sanctuary.(Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

© Joyce McGreevy

Though similar to kākās, keas have green plumage. These clever critters endear themselves to some and test the patience of others. It depends on whether the kea—the world’s only alpine parrot—is proving its smarts or dismantling your gear.

Hello, Caller?

One bird you’ll certainly hear throughout the country is the tūī, unique to New Zealand. With two voice boxes, tūī can produce complex songs, from melodious to punk-raucous.

They even inspired a Maori compliment about orators and singers, Me he korokoro tūī: “He has the throat of a tūī.”

Tūī are also mimics. Birdwatchers have reported tūī calls that sound like ringing cellphones.

The tui is unique to New Zealand, a favorite among birdwatchers. (Public domain image; credit: Bernard Spragg)

The white “collars” of tūī led Europeans to call them Parson Birds.
© Bernard Spragg

Pecks and the City

One surprising place to birdwatch is New Zealand’s capital. Minutes from Wellington, one of the world’s hippest cities, is the world’s first fully-fenced urban ecosanctuary.

Zealandia is a sanctuary for New Zealand’s native birds and other wildlife. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

Zealandia is a haven for 40 species of native birds.
© Joyce McGreevy

Over 500 acres of valley forest have been restored as closely as possible to their pre-colonized state.

Nearby is Kapiti Island, an important site for bird recovery. But plan ahead—only 50 visitors are allowed each day.

“Extinct” No More

One of my favorite sites is Te Anau Bird Sanctuary. Tourists who bypass it for Fiordland’s more famous attractions are missing out. This tranquil lakeshore setting features birds that are among the hardest to find in the wild. These include takahē, which until 1948 were thought to be extinct.

The takahe, once thought to be extinct, is one of New Zealand’s most unusual native birds. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

Unique to New Zealand, takahē have been around for 8 million years. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Seas the Day!

If you like pelagic birds, you’re in luck. New Zealand has the world’s most diverse seabird community. You’re never more than 80 miles from the coast, where the variety of birds includes native species of albatross (the world’s largest seabird), gulls, oystercatcher, petrel, and tern.

New Zealand oystercatchers are seabirds that make their nests near the shoreline.(Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

The shoreline nests of oystercatchers have been disturbed by pests, pets—and
careless beachgoers. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Don’t Pester the Penguins

New Zealand is home to three fascinating species of penguins. (Is there a boring species of penguins?) They are:

New Zealand’s little blue penguins explain why many birdwatchers love traveling the world. (Image © Chris Stephenson/ New Zealand Tourism)

Kororā, little blue penguins (average height 13 inches) . . .
© Chris Stephenson/New Zealand Tourism

New Zealand’s Fiordland crested penguins inspire birdwatchers to travel the world. (Image © Matt Winter/ New Zealand Tourism)

Tawaki, Fiordland crested penguins . . .
© Matt Winter/New Zealand Tourism

New Zealand’s yellow-eyed penguins show why many birdwatchers are traveling the world. (Image © Penguin Place/ New Zealand Tourism)

and Hoiho, yellow-eyed penguins.
© Penguin Place/New Zealand Tourism

Unfortunately, they are also among the most endangered birds—and travelers are adding to the problem.

According to NZ’s Department of Conservation, “Inappropriate behavior by visitors to . . . habitats is an increasing threat to nesting and molting birds. Poor use of selfie sticks and people entering nesting areas is causing stress to nesting penguins . . .  [that] could affect survival rates.”

Does that mean we can’t see penguins? No, but if we truly love them, we’ll do so from a distance. Let’s prioritize ecological respect over social media boast-posts.

A penguin crossing sign in New Zealand reminds people to respect the world of birds. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

When penguins come ashore to breed and molt, we humans need to give them space. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Becoming Bird-minded

Something I observed about Kiwis (the human variety) is that they are passionate about protecting native birds. There’s even a campaign for NZ’s Bird of the Year.

We should all be so bird-minded.

A collage of five common birds reflects the joys of birdwatching while traveling the world. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

Wherever we go, we’re traveling the world of birds. 
© Joyce McGreevy

Because as the campaign’s roster shows, 45% of New Zealand’s native birds are “in trouble.” In North America, 30% of native bird populations are in decline. Worldwide, nearly 1,500 bird species face extinction.

Oh, I see: When traveling the world of birds, tread lightly. Earth is a fragile nest and its balance is in our hands.

A bird’s egg reminds the viewer that the world of birds is fragile. (Image @ Joyce McGreevy)

Nurture their future.
© Joyce McGreevy

Find bird-friendly tips here and here. Discover birds of New Zealand here.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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