The angels of Paris are abundant (from the Church of Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre).
© Rosemary Flannery

The Most Celestial of Cultural Symbols

Happy holidays to all! This festive season surrounds us with sparkling lights, fir trees of all shapes and sizes, menorahs, wish lists, santas, elves, mangers, jingling bells, and heralding angels. We celebrate with a variety of cultural symbols at this time of year.

One of these symbols, however, has more than just a holiday presence. Angels can be full-time residents, finding a home in history and architectural design, especially in a city such as Paris.

Take a closer look, often toward the sky. Oh, I see. Angels are everywhere—in plain view and in some magically surprising places.

An armored angel at the Louvre
© Hemera Technologies/Ablestock.com

Angels of Paris

In Paris, these celestial spirits play many roles. They are protectors, guardians, caretakers, defenders, messengers, musicians, frolickers, celebrants, warriors, religious heralds, and just plain rejoicers. Some are serious. Some are whimsical.

The name “angel” comes from the Greek word “angelos,” which means messenger. Angels are thought to be a link between heaven and earth. Thus, they are usually in high places, reaching toward the sky.

Not all winged creatures are angels. These graceful figures atop the Petit Palais,
represent Fame and Victory.
© Meredith Mullins

They are diverse, beautiful, and, as Paris angel expert Rosemary Flannery says, “They reflect the spirit of their times”—from the Middle Ages to the 21st Century.

They live on monuments, churches, mansions, theatres, museums, palaces, and in parks, fountains, and on street corners.

There are so many Paris angels that Ms. Flannery had the challenging task of narrowing the field for her book “Angels in Paris”—a difficult job when so many stories begged to be told.

Now, OIC is being even more selective as we feature our six favorite angels from Ms. Flannery’s elite group.

Intricate grill work on the door of #66 Rue Greneta
© Rosemary Flannery

The Angel and the Dove

Cast-iron door grills in Paris were an architectural decoration that became popular from the 1830s to 1850s.

Here, at #66 Rue Greneta in the second arrondissement, everyone who passes through the bright red door is greeted by this intricately designed angel and dove—a constant reminder of protection, peace, and harmony. What a wonderful welcome to the building.

The angel and the dove
© Rosemary Flannery

The Working Angels of the Theatre de Châtelet

“Why not put the angels to work?” thought one building designer in 1862.

And so the angels on the rooftop of the Theatre de Châtelet steady a spire made of lead that serves as a lightning rod. Thus, the building is protected against a strike during one of the Paris thunderstorms (thank you Benjamin Franklin for the 1752 invention).

Theatre de Châtelet angels, protecting against lightning strikes
© Rosemary Flannery

Two pairs of muscular, curly-haired angels, with wisps of wings, hold tight and avert their gaze (although someone should mention the old adage: never turn your back on a lightning strike).

One angel pair is on the eastern façade of the theatre and one pair is on the west.

“Don’t mess with me,” says the guardian angel on the Church of the Madeleine.
© Rosemary Flannery

A Guardian of the Church of the Madeleine

Some say that each of us has a guardian angel, to guide us when times are challenging. Whether this is true or not, a guardian angel is clearly present on the northwest corner of the Church of the Madeleine.

She has a “Don’t mess with me,” look about her, with muscular wings to add to her powerful stature. She also, oddly, carries a crosier (usually carried by bishops).

She was carved in stone by Theophile Bra, an eccentric considered by his friends George Sand and Balzac to be a genius. He was also prone to hallucinations and mystical experiences, some of which can perhaps be sensed in this angel’s gaze.

The sundial angels of the Sorbonne
© Rosemary Flannery

Passing Time with the Angels

Angels often serve an important function when they appear in historic stories. At the Sorbonne, a sundial created in 1676 (and moved to the Galerie Robert de Sorbon in the honor courtyard in 1899) hosts two angels, painted in gold, assisting in marking the passing of time.

One holds a compass to measure the dimensions of the earth. The other stands ready to record notes on a stone tablet. High above the engraved markings of the sundial, the Greek god of the sun races against time in his horse-drawn chariot, celebrating each new day and passing hours.

An angel on Rue Turbigo that commands attention
© Rosemary Flannery

The Tallest Angel in Town?

Many of the angels of Paris are tucked away in hidden corners or so high on building tops that a significant backward head tilt is necessary to see them. Not so with the angel of #57 Rue Turbigo, which rises three stories on a busy street corner to watch over the neighborhood.

This well-dressed angel is there to be seen as it smiles over its palais collectif (shared palace), which is now an apartment building.

The architect, Eugène Demangeat, of the 1850s Haussmann building period, had an interesting artistic challenge—to soften the edge of this building to fit the oblique angle of the street.

He remembered a lighthouse design by Emile-August Delange, a student at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts et Architecture, that featured an angel and had been recognized for “poetic artistry.” (It didn’t hurt that the name Delange translates to “of the angel.” Hmmm.) It was the perfect solution for the structure.

The final sculpture was flat enough to fit the building codes, which prohibited projections. And, its wings support the fourth floor balcony with grace.

The archangel Michael (Michel) in the Place St-Michel
© W. Jarek/iStock

A King of Archangels

Another high-profile angel lives in the grand fountain of Place St. Michel. This warrior angel—Michael— is seen by millions of people every year and has the honor of having a square, boulevard, fountain, and bridge all named after him.

It’s a deserved accolade since he fights a valiant battle against evil . . . and he edged out Napoleon Bonaparte for this coveted fountain position.

His theatrical pose is inspired by Raphael’s painting of Michael and the dragon at the Louvre museum.

The angels, interspersed among other historic notables on the portals of the
Cathedral of Notre-Dame, are the oldest in Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

Paris: A City of Light, Love . . . and Angels

Paris has thousands of angels watching over the city or going about their daily angel business in their historically layered architectural worlds.

As cultural symbols, the interpretations of angels are diverse. However, The “Oh, I see” moments come when we take the time to discover . . . to really look at the details of the world . . . and to look in places where we might least expect to find an angel.

Happy holidays to all, and may the new year bring you angels in whatever form works best for you.

One of Nicolas Flamel’s medieval angel musicians, who bring the heavenly harmony
of music to the stone house at 51, Rue de Montmorency.
© Rosemary Flannery

Many thanks to Rosemary Flannery and her excellently researched book “Angels in Paris.” She studied her subject for years—reading historic documents, wandering the Paris streets on “angel alert,” and working in libraries most people don’t even know exist.

Rosemary Flannery’s “Angels of Paris”
© Meredith Mullins

The English version of “Angels in Paris” is published by The Little Bookroom. The French version is published by Editions Guy Tredaniel/Editions Exergue. You can also find more angel-related material here.

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