The \u00cele Saint-Louis: So many treasures lie within
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Circumnavigating the \u00cele Saint-Louis<\/h2>\n

How did a tiny island in the middle of the Seine river in Paris meet the challenges of pandemic wanderlust?<\/p>\n

Defying Einstein, the less-than-one-square-kilometer area of the \u00cele Saint-Louis seemed to expand during \u201cconfinement\u201d to become an undiscovered universe.<\/p>\n

My daily wanderings became a profound adventure during this time of sheltering, with a newfound appreciation of beauty in the details.<\/p>\n

Wandering the quai in the silence of the evening
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Exploring the Details<\/h4>\n

Travel inspiration comes in many forms. During the nearly two-month period of \u201cconfinement\u201d in France, I sought out authentic virtual travel experiences and gripping travel writing to feed the need for exploration.<\/p>\n

The north bank of the \u00cele Saint-Louis
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

However, my real-life daily walks around the island were the highlight.\u00a0We were limited to one hour outside, no more than one kilometer from home. These moments were the best part of the day.<\/p>\n

In the first few weeks, I walked the island cautiously, circling the perimeter quais, feeling grateful to be allowed exercise in such trying times. I never even considered crossing a bridge to the \u201ccontinent.\u201d<\/p>\n

Looking from the \u00cele Saint-Louis toward the left bank of Paris (the “continent”)
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Soon (around circling expedition Day 10), I started to channel the spirit of Magellan, seeking the adventure of new discoveries.<\/p>\n

At circling expedition Day 20, I became an archeologist\/historian, delving into the island\u2019s past stories.<\/p>\n

What stories were once hidden behind these rough-hewn doors?
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

And close to circling expedition Day 40, I began to wonder how I had missed all these hidden treasures after 15 years of walking these streets every day.<\/p>\n

Oh, I see.\u00a0<\/strong>We focus more when the distractions of daily life aren\u2019t calling our attention. We can see the beauty in the details.<\/p>\n

During my two months of circumnavigation, I had several island epiphanies. Here are five of those stories that I hope will give you a feeling of life on the \u00cele Saint-Louis.<\/p>\n

The Pont Marie, built in the 17th century, links the \u00cele Saint-Louis with the right bank.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Two Islands into One<\/h4>\n

I would often tell visitors that the \u00cele Saint-Louis was once called \u00cele aux Vaches (Cow Island), because it was an island dedicated to grazing cows. However, I was a little fuzzy on the two-islands-into-one story.<\/p>\n

Now I have learned that, prior to the 17^{th\u00a0<\/sup>century, the \u00cele Saint-Louis was two islands\u2014the \u00cele Notre-Dame (used for court-ordered duels) and the \u00cele aux Vaches.<\/p>\n}

In 1614, the canal between the two islands was filled in and the island became the \u00cele Saint-Louis, part of an urban plan where three developers would build out the island with 120 h\u00f4tel particuliers (elegant mansion residences) in a unified style of architecture.<\/p>\n

Several of the main residences from that era remain, but only a few are similar to their original state.<\/p>\n

The H\u00f4tel Bretonvilliers was one of the two largest mansions on the island
in the 17th century. Only the pavillion remains today.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Once I learned that rue Poulletier was where a canal separated the two islands, I walk that street like a tightrope over an imaginary abyss, hoping the structure will hold.<\/p>\n

The rue Poulletier is the dividing line between the two historic islands
that now make up the \u00cele Saint-Louis.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

So Many Doors . . . So Little Time<\/h4>\n

Every door in Paris is an invitation to imagine what lies beyond. And in the world of the \u00cele Saint-Louis, the doors from the 17^{th\u00a0<\/sup>and 18th\u00a0<\/sup>century are no exception. They are masterpieces of art and design.<\/p>\n}

For the first time, I noticed the door of the H\u00f4tel Lefebvre de la Malmaison at 22 Quai de Bethune, a typical door of the 17^{th\u00a0<\/sup>century. As an added bonus, Baudelaire lived here from 1842 to 1843.<\/p>\n}

A typical 17th century door at the H\u00f4tel Lefebvre de la Malmaison (#22 Quai de Bethune),
once the home of Baudelaire.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

The H\u00f4tel de Chenizot,\u00a0once the residence of the archbishop of Paris, also has a historic entrance. The exuberant rococo carvings add a bit of theatre to the rue Saint-Louis en l\u2019\u00cele and belie the quiet courtyard within.<\/p>\n

Ornate carvings at the H\u00f4tel Chenizot (#51 rue Saint-Louis en l’\u00cele), inspiring the imagination
as to what lies within
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

At #24 Quai de Bethune, I spent almost my full hour one day admiring the carriage doors, carved by sculptor Etienne le Hongre. They have been preserved from the original H\u00f4tel Hesselin designed by Louis Le Vau. This house was also where French President Pompidou lived from 1969 to 1974.<\/p>\n

Intricately carved 17th century doors at 24 Quai de Bethune
(also once the residence of French President Georges Pompidou)
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Corners of Interest: It\u2019s Always Good to Look Up<\/h4>\n

Looking up at street corners became a fascination during my circular walks. Two corners, in particular, caught my eye.<\/p>\n

At the corner of rue Le Regrattier and Quai de Bourbon is a strange headless sculpture and the remnants of an ancient street sign that named the street the rue de la Femme-sans-t\u00eate<\/em> (\u201cWoman without a Head\u201d street). The story of the headless woman is still a mystery, although some say it\u2019s actually a beheaded Saint Nicolas (making the street name the true mystery).<\/p>\n

The street of the “woman without a head”
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

On rue Bud\u00e9 near the corner of Quai d\u2019Orl\u00e9ans is a sculpture honoring the birthplace of the poet Felix Arvers, who was most noted for his heart-wrenching sonnet of unrequited love. Once you know his history, it\u2019s hard to pass that corner without thinking of romance.<\/p>\n

My soul its secret has, my life too has its mystery,
\nA love eternal in a moment’s space conceived<\/em><\/p>\n

A tribute to poet Felix Arvers at the corner of rue Bud\u00e9 and Quai d’Orl\u00e9ans
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

A Celebrity Cornucopia<\/h4>\n

Although the \u00cele Saint-Louis is often called ice cream island because of the presence of the famous Berthillon ice cream on almost every street, the island has a rich history of famous people seeking solace here.<\/p>\n

A celebrity in its own right: Berthillon ice cream
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

From Baudelaire to Marie Curie, from Pont-Aven artist Emile Bernard to composer Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Chopin, from French President Georges Pompidou to contemporary actors and musicians, the island has called to many as a quiet village in the center of a city.<\/p>\n

My slow exploration of the island provided time to read all the historic plaques and learn more about who lived where.<\/p>\n

Camille Claudel lived and worked at #19 Quai de Bourbon.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Two of the main island mansions were particular magnets for the famous.<\/p>\n

The H\u00f4tel de Lauzun (17 Quai d\u2019Anjou) hosted a famous hashish club, for artists and writers in the mid 19^{th\u00a0<\/sup>century\u2014an oasis of creativity protected from everyday reality.<\/p>\n}

H\u00f4tel de Lauzun (#17 Quai d’Anjou)
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

Here, Baudelaire was able to live his goal of having no other occupation than to \u201cgo on the path towards happiness\u201d and to share that goal with his fellow club members, including Balzac, Gautier, and Delacroix.<\/p>\n

Nothing says hashish club like a gilded balcony.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

The H\u00f4tel Lambert (#2 rue Saint-Louis en l\u2019Ile) was home to or hosted, among others, Chopin, George Sand, Delacroix, Voltaire, the Rothchilds, and, now, a Qatar Sheikh.<\/p>\n

The H\u00f4tel Lambert at the east end of the \u00cele Saint-Louis has been home to many people of note.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

A Variety of Vistas<\/h4>\n

The \u00cele Saint-Louis feels to me like the soul of Paris. I would not want to live anywhere else.<\/p>\n

The H\u00f4tel de Ville (City Hall) from the Pont Saint-Louis
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

As I wandered during the sunny spring days and warm silent nights, I was reminded how much I can see from my island home\u2014Notre Dame, the Panth\u00e9on, the Eiffel Tower, the H\u00f4tel de Ville (City Hall), the Tour Saint-Jacques, the \u00c9glise Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais, the Jussieu University tower, and\u00a0the Institute du Monde Arabe.<\/p>\n

The Panth\u00e9on is visible from the \u00cele Saint-Louis.
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

The Seine River is ever present. And the island\u2019s five bridges are a constant source of inspiration, from an artistic perspective as well as from a standpoint of inviting adventures on the \u201cmainland\u201d in all directions.<\/p>\n

Pont Louis-Philippe
\u00a9 Meredith Mullins<\/p><\/div>\n

There was a silver lining to confinement. I am thankful for travel inspiration, mixed with the luxury of time, that led me to explore the beauty of the details and history of my neighborhood. The reward\u2014I now feel even more at home on the \u00cele Saint-Louis.<\/p>\n

Comment<\/a><\/i>\u00a0on this post below, or inspire insight with your own\u00a0OIC Moment\u00a0here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":null,"protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":37436,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[190,211,535],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-37428","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-art-travel","category-paris-mappoints","category-history-travel"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37428","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37428"}],"version-history":[{"count":41,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37428\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":37500,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37428\/revisions\/37500"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/37436"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37428"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37428"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37428"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}