If you have run five miles, completed hundreds of pushups and squats, finished a long distance swim, and lifted a few sand bags and giant stones—all before your 6 am training session begins—you might have some of what it takes to become a Kushti wrestler.

You would also have to embrace the idea of showing your strength, endurance, and agility in a mud/clay pit that is the traditional sacred arena of this sport. This is gritty work . . . “of the earth.”

And you would, by the way, have to dedicate yourself to a life of discipline and austerity.

The ancient art of Indian wrestling—called Kushti or Pehlwani—is a different approach to wrestling than the images that come to mind in America when “mud wrestling” is mentioned (bikini-clad mudwomen?).

It has more artistry than the WWE vision of superstars like Hulk Hogan or Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson throwing their opponents to the mat with a thud.

Kushti wrestling is about strength, stamina, and agility. But it is also a way of life connected to India’s cultural traditions.

The Philosophy of Kushti Wrestling

For thousands of years, the Kushti training centers in India, called akharas or akhadas, have attracted boys and men from all castes. It is one of the few places where everyone is equal.

Often, the call to be a wrestler is passed down from generation to generation. A boy as young as six can start training.

For some, it is a way out of poverty, a path to becoming a professional wrestler or securing a good job.

For some, it is a way to stay fit and take pride in the power of the body and a life of discipline.

For some, it is a way to pay tribute to the god Hanuman, the god of strength and energy.

For all who are in training, it is not an easy life. The training is not just physical, but also requires discipline in all aspects of being. Alcohol, tobacco, drugs, and paan (beetle leaves that have psychoactive properties) are all forbidden.

The Kushti diet is restrictive and protein rich—almonds, milk, eggs, butter, fruit, vegetables, and sometimes mutton (although many wrestlers are vegetarian to further purify the body).

These kinds of foods are also expensive in India, which requires a real commitment from a Kushti wrestler (and often a “day job”).

Although it is not a requirement in the contemporary world of Kushti, most of the wrestlers are celibate, so that they can focus on the training. Many live in monastery-like space at the akharas. A simple life, with sleep at 8 pm.

The Training

Training begins early with a run, swim, and calisthenics. At the akhara, the training tools look like medieval weapons—all designed to build strength and flexibility.

The heavy wooden clubs, called mugdars, build arm and shoulder muscles. The gada, a stone attached to a bamboo stick, is also a weapon of the god Hanuman. Although it is a muscle builder as well, it is intimidating just as it is. It can weigh from 10 to 130 pounds.

The nar is a hollow stone with a handle inside that gets lifted like an ancient trophy above the head.

None of these tools would be found in a modern gym, which makes the visual story of the akhara so rich with cultural traditions.

In addition, rope climbing, weightlifting, and work on the parallel bars are all part of the daily routine.

The Wrestling

The rounds of Kushti in the hallowed pit begin at around 6 am, with wrestlers pairing off in practice rounds of about 25 minutes, under the watchful eye of their guru.

The arena is a spiritual place, and no one but the wrestlers are allowed in. The soil (from the banks of the Ganges) is mixed like a cake with Ayurvedic oils, buttermilk, turmeric, clay, ghee (butter), neem leaf, and red ochre.

Water is added to make sure the soil is soft enough to avoid injury to the wrestlers but gritty enough to give them traction in movement.

For the wrestlers, the soil is sacred. They begin their match by rubbing some on themselves and their opponent as a blessing. It is also thought to have healing properties.

No hitting, kicking, or slapping is allowed in Kushti. The goal is to take down the opponent and pin his shoulders and hips to the ground. There are no partial points, as in some forms of wrestling. It is all about the pin. Strength. Strategy. Agility. Endurance.

After the morning training, the wrestlers often cool off in the soil and get an all-important body massage from fellow wrestlers or trainees.

They then wash, brush their teeth with neem branches, and, more often than not, go off to work so that they can continue to support their quest as a modern-day warrior.

A Dying Heritage: The Somber “Oh, I See” Moment

Despite the graceful beauty and primal energy of Kushti wrestling—as well as its practice for nearly 3000 years—this art/sport is losing popularity among the young. Contemporary forms of wrestling and modern gyms are gaining ground.

The government also has reduced funding for Kushti akharas. The few remaining training centers are struggling to survive.

The spirituality and grace of Kushti raise it to levels beyond just a sport. It is a mysterious, unintentionally sensual dance, punctuated with feats of strength.

It is a way of life that incorporates mind, body, and spirit in the best possible way.