<div id="attachment_31789" style="width: 507px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31789" class="wp-image-31789" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0130-2-703x1024.jpg" alt="A young Turkish American girl celebrates her heritage at the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="497" height="725" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0130-2-703x1024.jpg 703w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0130-2-206x300.jpg 206w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0130-2-768x1119.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0130-2-142x207.jpg 142w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0130-2-300x437.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 497px) 100vw, 497px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31789" class="wp-caption-text">Derya Bolgün, age 10, welcomes you to the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival <br />in Monterey, California. <br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<h2><strong>A Cultural Festival Calls Forth Memories</strong></h2>
<p>You won’t need sugar in your <em>fincan kahve </em>(cup of coffee) this morning. <em>Şekerpare</em>, a delicate cookie made with semolina, almonds, and love, delivers the sweetness. So, inhale the rich aroma and galvanize your senses with robust brew.  If you closed your eyes, you could be in Istanbul.</p>
<p>But you’re at a Turkish cultural festival in Monterey, California.</p>
<div id="attachment_31790" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31790" class="wp-image-31790 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/pastry_tatli-1024x512.jpg" alt="Pastries like Sekerpare and irmik helvasa connect Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California to the author’s memories of Istanbul. (Images © Joyce McGreevy/ Ceren Abi)" width="560" height="280" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/pastry_tatli-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/pastry_tatli-300x150.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/pastry_tatli-768x384.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/pastry_tatli-207x104.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31790" class="wp-caption-text">Is <em>baklava</em> Turkish or Greek? Depends on whom you ask. <em>Şekerpare</em> (center) and <em>irmik helvasa</em> (right) <br />reflect culinary traditions of Turkey&#8217;s Ottoman Empire.<br />© Joyce McGreevy (L)/ Ceren Abi (R)</p></div>
<h4><strong>Re(sound)</strong></h4>
<p><strong>Oh, I see:</strong> At cultural festivals, details evoke worlds.  At Monterey’s Custom House Plaza, the percussive rhythm of the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RP7co6raqQs" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>davul</em></a> and the string-song of a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptuQcsyTsbI" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>bağalama </em></a>become a soundtrack for Turkish memories.</p>
<div id="attachment_31791" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31791" class="wp-image-31791 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0178-1024x898.jpg" alt="Young women at the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California reflect the exuberance of Turkish line dancing and inspire memories of Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="560" height="491" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0178-1024x898.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0178-300x263.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0178-768x673.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0178-207x181.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31791" class="wp-caption-text">Young women in Monterey, California reflect the exuberance of Turkish line dancing. <br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<p>Every note I hear is layered with sounds remembered:</p>
<p>The singsong pitch of street vendors and the sonorous calls-to-prayer of the <em>muezzin;</em> the <em>miyav</em> (meow) of sociable <em>kediler</em> (cats); the sparkling humor and plaintive beseeching of TV soap operas; the clatter of plates and clink of glasses at a <em>meyhane</em>; the buzz and bump of motorbikes on cobbled alleys; the banter of fishermen at the Galata Bridge amid the commentary of seagulls.</p>
<p>As if on cue, a colony of seagulls above Monterey Bay choruses raucously, bringing my senses back to California.</p>
<h4><strong>Re(scene)</strong></h4>
<p>At a cultural festival a single image can reassemble memory’s mosaic. I spot a display of <em>nazar boncuğu</em>, blue glass eye beads. Traditionally, these talismans warded off misfortune’s “evil eye” by staring boldly back, commanding misery to come no closer. In reality, Turks collect them mostly for their beauty and to give as gifts.</p>
<div id="attachment_31793" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31793" class="wp-image-31793 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0103-1024x768.jpg" alt="A display case of nazar boncuğu, blue glass eye beads, connect a Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California with the author’s memories of Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="560" height="420" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0103-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0103-300x225.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0103-768x576.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC_0103-207x155.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31793" class="wp-caption-text">The eyes have it: Shown here in Monterey, <em>nazar boncuğu</em> are everywhere in Turkey. <br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<p>Seen in Monterey, the blue beads trigger a montage of memories: The blue-tiled <em>Rüstem Paşa </em>Mosque, bluer even than Istanbul’s more famous Blue Mosque. The azure blue of summer sky as you ferry across the steel blue Bosporus from Istanbul’s European side to its Asian side. The intense dark blue of <em>lapis lazuli </em>in a jeweler’s window. The shimmering blue of peacocks in a palace garden. Blue-black figs at an open-air market.</p>
<h4><strong>Re(word)</strong></h4>
<p>One 15th-century word encapsulates the entire spectrum of blues that first dazzled travelers in Turkey. The French pronounced it <em>tur-KWAZ</em>.</p>
<p>Yes, <em>turquoise</em>, or literally, “Turkish.” Today, we reserve that word for the bluish-green stone mined in arid regions of Turkey, America’s Southwest, and elsewhere. “Phosphate of copper and aluminum” lacks a certain poetry.</p>
<div id="attachment_31800" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31800" class="wp-image-31800 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Blue-collage-1024x765.jpg" alt="A collage of scenes in Istanbul and Bodrum reflects the prevalence of the color blue in Turkish arts and culture. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="560" height="418" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Blue-collage-1024x765.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Blue-collage-300x224.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Blue-collage-768x574.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Blue-collage-207x155.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31800" class="wp-caption-text">The color blue is prevalent throughout Turkey.<br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<h4><strong>A Thirst for Memories</strong></h4>
<p>Turkish wines are superb, but it&#8217;s too early to sample them. And other beverages offer their own complexities. A glass of gold is made using two stacked kettles, the lower kettle to boil the water, the top to warm the loose-leaf <em>ç</em><em>ay</em>, or tea. Tulip-shaped glasses are essential.</p>
<div id="attachment_31819" style="width: 360px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31819" class="wp-image-31819" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Turkish-Tea-257x300.jpg" alt="A glass of Turkish tea at a cultural festival in Monterey, California inspires memories of Istanbul, Turkey. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="350" height="409" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Turkish-Tea-257x300.jpg 257w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Turkish-Tea-768x898.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Turkish-Tea-876x1024.jpg 876w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Turkish-Tea-177x207.jpg 177w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Turkish-Tea-300x351.jpg 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31819" class="wp-caption-text">Serve Turkish tea in glasses to assess its strength and admire its color. <br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<p>Now let’s order lunch and <em>ayran</em> (EYE-rahn), a salty, ice-cold yogurt drink. It’s an acquired taste, but a refreshing one, too. The savory, restorative counterpart to the American milkshake.</p>
<div id="attachment_31792" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31792" class="wp-image-31792" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Monterey_Istanbul-1024x512.jpg" alt="Two men cook Turkish food, one at a cultural festival in Monterey, California and one in Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="600" height="300" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Monterey_Istanbul-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Monterey_Istanbul-300x150.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Monterey_Istanbul-768x384.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Monterey_Istanbul-207x104.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31792" class="wp-caption-text">In tiny pop-up kitchens, two chefs—one in Monterey, one in Istanbul—satisfy hungry crowds.<br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<p><em>Ne yemek istersin? </em>“What would you like to eat?” Turkish cuisine goes way beyond <em>doner kebap</em>. It reflects two continents, a host of regional, seasonal variations, and the experiences of 2,000 centuries. From palatial <em>restoranları </em>to rickety stands  on street corners, Turkish kitchens produce some of the world’s most splendid fare.</p>
<div id="attachment_31798" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31798" class="wp-image-31798 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/4Pottery_IST-1024x765.jpg" alt="uyers, sellers, and Turkish ceramics at at a cultural festival in Monterey, California form a colorful collage of Istanbul street scenes. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="560" height="418" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/4Pottery_IST-1024x765.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/4Pottery_IST-300x224.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/4Pottery_IST-768x574.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/4Pottery_IST-207x155.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31798" class="wp-caption-text">Colorful Turkish ceramics in Monterey (upper left) recall a feast of colors in Istanbul.<br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<h4><strong>The Taste of Memories</strong></h4>
<p>Turkish breakfast is a lavish affair, a beautifully constructed spread of the finest regional cheeses, cured olives, egg dishes, rose jam, and more. But nothing inspires morning rapture quite like <em>simit</em>. It is to Turkey what the croissant is to Paris—deceptively simple and simply superb.</p>
<p>To find <em>simit </em>in Turkey, just look for the man wheeling a red trolley or balancing a tray stacked ten tiers high. In the U.S., <em>simit</em> is increasingly available at Mediterranean delis and bakeries, including Monterey’s International <a href="https://internationalmarketanddeli.webs.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Market</a>.</p>
<p>Served fresh and warm, <em>simit</em> are downright inspiring. They have even inspired the noun <i>can simidi (jahn SIH-mihd-ee)—</i>the name for the ring-shaped life preservers on Turkish ferries.</p>
<div id="attachment_31817" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31817" class="wp-image-31817 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Simit-1024x723.jpg" alt="Simit at a cultural festival in Monterey, California inspires memories of Istanbul, Turkey. (Image © Ceren Abi)" width="560" height="395" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Simit-1024x723.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Simit-300x212.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Simit-768x542.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Simit-207x146.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31817" class="wp-caption-text">The perfect Turkish breakfast begins with <em>simit</em>, a circular bread encrusted with sesame seeds.<br />© Ceren Abi</p></div>
<h4>Turkish Memory Lane</h4>
<p>By now even a passing California car inspires Turkish reverie: While driving from Istanbul to Bodrum, my Turkish relatives and I stop at the town of Ortaklar. Ortaklar’s main street is lined with carwashes, but each represents only half of a family-owned business. I discover the other half when we pull into <em>Necati’nin Yeri</em>.</p>
<p>While the car is seen to, we join festive diners at long tables under shade trees and canopies. Dish after exquisite dish arrives, and a young man slides flat rounds of dough into an outdoor oven, where they puff up like balloons. This is <em>lavas</em> (lah-VAHSH), so irresistible it’s a wonder the customers don’t puff up like balloons, too.</p>
<p>Recalling this feast,  I momentarily conflate thoroughly Turkish fare and American thoroughfares. Oh right, I’m in Monterey, California, not Ortaklar. But everything is redolent with the sweet confusion of memories.</p>
<div id="attachment_31802" style="width: 570px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31802" class="wp-image-31802 size-large" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/People_Mty_Ist-1024x601.jpg" alt="Two street scenes, one during a cultural festival in Monterey, one in Istanbul, celebrate Turkish culture. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="560" height="329" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/People_Mty_Ist-1024x601.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/People_Mty_Ist-300x176.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/People_Mty_Ist-768x451.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/People_Mty_Ist-207x122.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31802" class="wp-caption-text">On a day in August, families stroll in Monterey and Istanbul. Can you tell which is which?<br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<h4><strong>The Taste of Turkish Words</strong></h4>
<p>I savor, too, the taste of Turkish words. A cultural festival offers the chance to practice. The Turkish language is considered fiendishly difficult to learn, but I disagree. Difficult to master, sure, but that’s true of any language. The spelling of modern Turkish is largely phonetic, so once you recognize differences in the alphabet and get the hang of certain sounds, you might be surprised at how quickly you catch on.</p>
<p>It begins with <em>Merhaba</em> (MEHR-hah-bah). Hello!</p>
<div id="attachment_31794" style="width: 590px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-31794" class="wp-image-31794" src="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-1024x512.jpg" alt="Fisherman’s Wharf Monterey inspires a visitor to a nearby Turkish cultural festival ito recall a similar scene at the Bosporus in Istanbul. (Image © Joyce McGreevy)" width="580" height="290" srcset="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-300x150.jpg 300w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-768x384.jpg 768w, https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-207x104.jpg 207w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px" /><p id="caption-attachment-31794" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: On Monterey Bay and Istanbul&#8217;s Bosporus, friendly people go with the flow. <br />© Joyce McGreevy</p></div>
<p>Learning to say hello, surely that’s the takeaway of cultural festivals.  <em>Hello</em> to the connections between here and there, past and present, you and me.  <em>Merhaba</em> to families strolling along the Bosporus and families strolling along Monterey Bay. <em>Hello, Merhaba,</em> and <em>Welcome</em> to whatever connects us all.</p>
<p><em>Thank you to Ceren Abi for contributing to this article. </em><i>Seni seviyorum, Ceren!</i></p>
<p><em>See more of the Monterey Turkish Arts and Culture Festival <a href="https://vimeo.com/jeffclark/montereyturkishfestival" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.</em></p>
<p><em><a href="#comments" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Comment</a> on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment <a href="https://www.oh-i-see.com/blog/your-oic-moments/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>.</em></p>
{"id":31786,"date":"2018-08-27T03:00:27","date_gmt":"2018-08-27T10:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/?p=31786"},"modified":"2021-07-27T15:55:57","modified_gmt":"2021-07-27T22:55:57","slug":"rendezvous-a-la-turk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/rendezvous-a-la-turk\/","title":{"rendered":"Rendezvous \u00e0 la Turk"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_31789\" style=\"width: 507px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31789\" class=\"wp-image-31789\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0130-2-703x1024.jpg\" alt=\"A young Turkish American girl celebrates her heritage at the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"497\" height=\"725\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0130-2-703x1024.jpg 703w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0130-2-206x300.jpg 206w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0130-2-768x1119.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0130-2-142x207.jpg 142w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0130-2-300x437.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 497px) 100vw, 497px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31789\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Derya Bolg\u00fcn, age 10, welcomes you to the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival <br \/>in Monterey, California.\u00a0<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<h2><strong>A Cultural Festival Calls Forth Memories<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>You won\u2019t need sugar in your <em>fincan kahve\u00a0<\/em>(cup of coffee) this morning. <em>\u015eekerpare<\/em>, a delicate cookie made with semolina, almonds, and love, delivers the sweetness. So, inhale the rich aroma and galvanize your senses with robust brew.\u00a0 If you closed your eyes, you could be in Istanbul.<\/p>\n<p>But you\u2019re at a Turkish cultural festival in Monterey, California.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31790\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31790\" class=\"wp-image-31790 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/pastry_tatli-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"Pastries like Sekerpare and irmik helvasa connect Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California to the author\u2019s memories of Istanbul. (Images \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy\/ Ceren Abi)\" width=\"560\" height=\"280\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/pastry_tatli-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/pastry_tatli-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/pastry_tatli-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/pastry_tatli-207x104.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31790\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Is <em>baklava<\/em> Turkish or Greek? Depends on whom you ask. <em>\u015eekerpare<\/em> (center) and <em>irmik helvasa<\/em> (right) <br \/>reflect culinary traditions of Turkey&#8217;s Ottoman Empire.<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy (L)\/ Ceren Abi (R)<\/p><\/div>\n<h4><strong>Re(sound)<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><strong>Oh, I see:<\/strong> At cultural festivals, details evoke worlds. \u00a0At Monterey\u2019s Custom House Plaza, the percussive rhythm of the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=RP7co6raqQs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>davul<\/em><\/a> and the string-song of a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ptuQcsyTsbI\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>ba\u011falama <\/em><\/a>become a soundtrack for Turkish memories.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31791\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31791\" class=\"wp-image-31791 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0178-1024x898.jpg\" alt=\"Young women at the Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California reflect the exuberance of Turkish line dancing and inspire memories of Istanbul. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"560\" height=\"491\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0178-1024x898.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0178-300x263.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0178-768x673.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0178-207x181.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31791\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Young women in Monterey, California reflect the exuberance of Turkish line dancing.\u00a0<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Every note I hear is layered with sounds remembered:<\/p>\n<p>The singsong pitch of street vendors and the sonorous calls-to-prayer of the <em>muezzin;<\/em>\u00a0the <em>miyav<\/em> (meow) of sociable <em>kediler<\/em> (cats); the sparkling humor and plaintive beseeching of TV soap operas; the clatter of plates and clink of glasses at a <em>meyhane<\/em>; the buzz and bump of motorbikes on cobbled alleys; the banter of fishermen at the Galata Bridge amid the commentary of seagulls.<\/p>\n<p>As if on cue, a colony of seagulls above Monterey Bay choruses raucously, bringing my senses back to California.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Re(scene)<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>At a cultural festival a single image can reassemble memory\u2019s mosaic. I spot a display of <em>nazar boncu\u011fu<\/em>, blue glass eye beads. Traditionally, these talismans warded off misfortune\u2019s \u201cevil eye\u201d by staring boldly back, commanding misery to come no closer. In reality, Turks collect them mostly for their beauty and to give as gifts.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31793\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31793\" class=\"wp-image-31793 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0103-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"A display case of nazar boncu\u011fu, blue glass eye beads, connect a Turkish Arts and Culture Festival in Monterey, California with the author\u2019s memories of Istanbul. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0103-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0103-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0103-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/DSC_0103-207x155.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31793\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The eyes have it: Shown here in Monterey,\u00a0<em>nazar boncu\u011fu<\/em>\u00a0are everywhere in Turkey.\u00a0<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Seen in Monterey, the blue beads trigger a montage of memories: The blue-tiled <em>R\u00fcstem Pa\u015fa <\/em>Mosque, bluer even than Istanbul\u2019s more famous Blue Mosque. The azure blue of summer sky as you ferry across the steel blue Bosporus from Istanbul\u2019s European side to its Asian side. The intense dark blue of <em>lapis lazuli\u00a0<\/em>in a jeweler\u2019s window. The shimmering blue of peacocks in a palace garden. Blue-black figs at an open-air market.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Re(word)<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>One 15th-century word encapsulates the entire spectrum of blues that first dazzled travelers in Turkey. The French pronounced it <em>tur-KWAZ<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>Yes, <em>turquoise<\/em>, or literally, \u201cTurkish.\u201d Today, we reserve that word for the bluish-green stone mined in arid regions of Turkey, America\u2019s Southwest, and elsewhere. \u201cPhosphate of copper and aluminum\u201d lacks a certain poetry.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31800\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31800\" class=\"wp-image-31800 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Blue-collage-1024x765.jpg\" alt=\"A collage of scenes in Istanbul and Bodrum reflects the prevalence of the color blue in Turkish arts and culture. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Blue-collage-1024x765.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Blue-collage-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Blue-collage-768x574.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Blue-collage-207x155.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31800\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The color blue is prevalent throughout Turkey.<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<h4><strong>A Thirst for Memories<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>Turkish wines are superb, but it&#8217;s too early to sample them. And other beverages offer their own complexities. A glass of gold is made using two stacked kettles, the lower kettle to boil the water, the top to warm the loose-leaf\u00a0<em>\u00e7<\/em><em>ay<\/em>, or tea. Tulip-shaped glasses are essential.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31819\" style=\"width: 360px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31819\" class=\"wp-image-31819\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Turkish-Tea-257x300.jpg\" alt=\"A glass of Turkish tea at a cultural festival in Monterey, California inspires memories of Istanbul, Turkey. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"350\" height=\"409\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Turkish-Tea-257x300.jpg 257w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Turkish-Tea-768x898.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Turkish-Tea-876x1024.jpg 876w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Turkish-Tea-177x207.jpg 177w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Turkish-Tea-300x351.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31819\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serve Turkish tea in glasses to assess its strength and admire its color. <br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Now let\u2019s order lunch and\u00a0<em>ayran<\/em> (EYE-rahn), a salty, ice-cold yogurt drink. It\u2019s an acquired taste, but a refreshing one, too. The savory, restorative counterpart to the American milkshake.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31792\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31792\" class=\"wp-image-31792\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Monterey_Istanbul-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"Two men cook Turkish food, one at a cultural festival in Monterey, California and one in Istanbul. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"600\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Monterey_Istanbul-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Monterey_Istanbul-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Monterey_Istanbul-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Monterey_Istanbul-207x104.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31792\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">In tiny pop-up kitchens, two chefs\u2014one in Monterey, one in Istanbul\u2014satisfy hungry crowds.<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<p><em>Ne yemek istersin?\u00a0<\/em>\u201cWhat would you like to eat?\u201d Turkish cuisine goes way beyond <em>doner kebap<\/em>. It reflects two continents, a host of regional, seasonal variations, and the experiences of 2,000 centuries. From palatial <em>restoranlar\u0131\u00a0<\/em>to rickety stands \u00a0on street corners, Turkish kitchens produce some of the world\u2019s most splendid fare.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31798\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31798\" class=\"wp-image-31798 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/4Pottery_IST-1024x765.jpg\" alt=\"uyers, sellers, and Turkish ceramics at at a cultural festival in Monterey, California form a colorful collage of Istanbul street scenes. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/4Pottery_IST-1024x765.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/4Pottery_IST-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/4Pottery_IST-768x574.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/4Pottery_IST-207x155.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31798\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Turkish ceramics in Monterey (upper left) recall a feast of colors in Istanbul.<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<h4><strong>The Taste of Memories<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>Turkish breakfast is a lavish affair, a beautifully constructed spread of the finest regional cheeses, cured olives, egg dishes, rose jam, and more. But nothing inspires morning rapture quite like <em>simit<\/em>. It is to Turkey what the croissant is to Paris\u2014deceptively simple and simply superb.<\/p>\n<p>To find <em>simit <\/em>in Turkey, just look for the man wheeling a red trolley or balancing a tray stacked ten tiers high. In the U.S., <em>simit<\/em> is increasingly available at Mediterranean delis and bakeries, including Monterey\u2019s International <a href=\"https:\/\/internationalmarketanddeli.webs.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Market<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Served fresh and warm, <em>simit<\/em>\u00a0are downright inspiring. They have even inspired the noun\u00a0<i>can\u00a0simidi (jahn SIH-mihd-ee)\u2014<\/i>the name for\u00a0the ring-shaped life preservers on Turkish ferries.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31817\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31817\" class=\"wp-image-31817 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Simit-1024x723.jpg\" alt=\"Simit at a cultural festival in Monterey, California inspires memories of Istanbul, Turkey. (Image \u00a9 Ceren Abi)\" width=\"560\" height=\"395\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Simit-1024x723.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Simit-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Simit-768x542.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Simit-207x146.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31817\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The perfect Turkish breakfast begins with <em>simit<\/em>, a circular bread encrusted with sesame seeds.<br \/>\u00a9 Ceren Abi<\/p><\/div>\n<h4>Turkish Memory Lane<\/h4>\n<p>By now even a passing California car inspires Turkish reverie: While driving from Istanbul to Bodrum, my Turkish relatives and I stop at the town of Ortaklar. Ortaklar\u2019s main street is lined with carwashes, but each represents only half of a family-owned business. I discover the other half when we pull into <em>Necati\u2019nin Yeri<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>While the car is seen to, we join festive diners at long tables under shade trees and canopies. Dish after exquisite dish arrives, and a young man slides flat rounds of dough into an outdoor oven, where they puff up like balloons. This is <em>lavas<\/em> (lah-VAHSH), so irresistible it\u2019s a wonder the customers don\u2019t puff up like balloons, too.<\/p>\n<p>Recalling this feast, \u00a0I momentarily conflate thoroughly Turkish fare and American thoroughfares.\u00a0Oh right, I\u2019m in Monterey, California, not Ortaklar. But everything is redolent with the sweet confusion of memories.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31802\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31802\" class=\"wp-image-31802 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/People_Mty_Ist-1024x601.jpg\" alt=\"Two street scenes, one during a cultural festival in Monterey, one in Istanbul, celebrate Turkish culture. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"560\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/People_Mty_Ist-1024x601.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/People_Mty_Ist-300x176.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/People_Mty_Ist-768x451.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/People_Mty_Ist-207x122.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31802\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On a day in August, families stroll in Monterey and Istanbul. Can you tell which is which?<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<h4><strong>The Taste of Turkish Words<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>I savor, too, the taste of Turkish words. A cultural festival offers the chance to practice. The Turkish language is considered fiendishly difficult to learn, but I disagree. Difficult to master, sure, but that\u2019s true of any language. The spelling of modern Turkish is largely phonetic, so once you recognize differences in the alphabet and get the hang of certain sounds, you might be surprised at how quickly you catch on.<\/p>\n<p>It begins with <em>Merhaba<\/em> (MEHR-hah-bah). Hello!<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_31794\" style=\"width: 590px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31794\" class=\"wp-image-31794\" src=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-1024x512.jpg\" alt=\"Fisherman\u2019s Wharf Monterey inspires a visitor to a nearby Turkish cultural festival ito recall a similar scene at the Bosporus in Istanbul. (Image \u00a9 Joyce McGreevy)\" width=\"580\" height=\"290\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-1024x512.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/MTY-Bay_Bosporus-207x104.jpg 207w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31794\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left to right: On Monterey Bay and Istanbul&#8217;s Bosporus, friendly people go with the flow.\u00a0<br \/>\u00a9 Joyce McGreevy<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Learning to say hello, surely that\u2019s the takeaway of cultural festivals. \u00a0<em>Hello<\/em> to the connections between here and there, past and present, you and me. \u00a0<em>Merhaba<\/em> to families strolling along the Bosporus and families strolling along Monterey Bay. <em>Hello, Merhaba,<\/em> and <em>Welcome<\/em> to whatever connects us all.<\/p>\n<p><em>Thank you to Ceren Abi for contributing to this article.\u00a0<\/em><i>Seni seviyorum, Ceren!<\/i><\/p>\n<p><em>See more of the Monterey Turkish Arts and Culture Festival <a href=\"https:\/\/vimeo.com\/jeffclark\/montereyturkishfestival\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><a href=\"#comments\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Comment<\/a>\u00a0on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment <a href=\"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/your-oic-moments\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":null,"protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":31791,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[98,102,513,199],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-31786","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-crossing-culture","category-culture-language","category-turkey-mappoints","category-usa-mappoints"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31786","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/15"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=31786"}],"version-history":[{"count":33,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31786\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":31842,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31786\/revisions\/31842"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31791"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=31786"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=31786"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.oh-i-see.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=31786"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}